(Topic ID: 305774)

GTB Neptune no WoW

By Steve_B

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by dgAmpGuy
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 2 years ago

GTB 1978 Neptune:
Everything works except the Red Cards WOW when all red cards (9 10 J Q K A) are hit. Black cards work fine. I have the schematic and traced the possible issue on the schematic to the R1-R6 switches. All of them need to be closed for the Sequence Complete relay to fire.

I cleaned the contacts and checked the gaps on R1-R6 and all seem good. The KS and AS steppers are working fine. The Black Sequence Complete relay works fine, but the Red Sequence Complete relay isn’t getting power even after hitting all red cards. Is there another pathway to activate the Red Sequence Complete relay?

Thanks, Steve.

#2 2 years ago

Got an alligator jumper? clip at the power side, hit the coil lug first with the other end to see if it fires then walk it back through the daisy chain...

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from Steve_B:

All of them need to be closed for the Sequence Complete relay to fire.

Later I'll need to look at the schematics, but should there not be a set of closed contacts
on the score motor's cam to keep the (SCR) Sequence Complete Relay energized until the
bank has reset? If manually pushing in the SCR, does it remain energized until the bank
resets? If yes, then there's probably another set of contacts in the R1 - R6 switches that's
not making. Bedtime now, but if still needed, I'll get to the schematics tomorrow (well later day)..

#4 2 years ago

Thanks for reply.
The R1-R6 bank of switches resets normally and all the associated lights do light up. When a target is hit the lights go out, so all the coils are fine and fire as expected. The SCR does not stay energized if pushed in manually.
If you can check the schematic I would appreciate it Mopar.

Still think there may be a switch I’m missing, or that one of the contacts in the R1-R6 switch stacks is still not making contact after switch trips. Difficult to see wire colors on schematic to identify correct contacts in daisy chain for SCR activation.
Thanks.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from Steve_B:

The SCR does not stay energized if pushed in manually.

Okay, so the SCR does not hold itself when manually pushed in. There's a set of Score Motor contacts
(4C) in that circuitry, but that same set is in the BCR (black) circuitry, so that's not the issue.
There's a set of contacts in the U (SCR) itself that needs to be making for U to remain energized. It's
usually the very inside set. It should hold itself even if the R1 - R6 isn't making..
2nd, when the R1 - R6 switches are made, does the SCR energize for a split second? If not, with the
R1 - R6 switches made, you can jump R1 switch to the SCR blue-black (I believe) terminal (not the one
with the black wire) and that should energize SCR. If it doesn't, there's a set of switches in the Q (Series)
Relay (Red-Green) wire that need to be making. If Q seems to be fine, then you'll want to check continuity
on the R1 - R6 when they're made. Let us know what you find..
I can only check in periodically, so maybe/hopefully you'll get additional help for quicker response..

#6 2 years ago

The sequence completed relay (U) is a special coil, A-17564. Check and make sure that hasn’t been replaced with the wrong coil. There should also be a 47 microfarad capacitor, a diode, a 1N4004 diode, and a 6 ohm 2 watt resistor in the on/hold path to this coil. If any of the connections have broken or one of the components has fried, that would explain why it wouldn’t stay held when you manually activated it.

I like to use a test light. You could connect it between the black wire on the coil and blue+black wire that goes to the resistor and see if it lights when you complete the sequence or manually activate the relay. You can make a test light out of two 12 volt auto light bulbs wired in series with some wire and alligator clips. Alternatively, you could use an AC voltmeter. Note that if you measure voltage at the coil, it is DC due to the diode.

Dave

#7 2 years ago

Thanks autouncorrect! Assuming that was supposed to be "connect" lol

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Thanks autouncorrect! Assuming that was supposed to be "connect" lol
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Right you are. Sorry.

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