(Topic ID: 264314)

GTB Jacks Open Shop/Technical Thread

By goldenboy232

4 years ago


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  • 25 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by PinballDr
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#1 4 years ago

OK, starting to shop out the Jacks Open I picked up last week. I drove 1200 miles round-trip to grab this game and plan to sell it in the next couple of months.

I already have Lucky Hand, the AAB version, so I’d love to put this game into the hands of someone who’s always wanted one.

It’s going to need new plastics, new rubbers, a knew grounded power cord, new coin entry slots and labels, a new decal on the front, (ideally a new or better back-glass), and a thorough shop job throughout.

But it basically works 100% with only one issue that I can find:

Sometimes the game does not advance from one Card Hand to the next, meaning the light does t advance and the targets don’t reset. Or sometimes it WILL do so, but belatedly, almost like eventually a vibration or contact gets made after the fact and then it does it.

So, for instance, once I’ve knocked down the two jacks, it does not always advance to the three queens right away. Sometimes (rarely) it does it right away, and sometimes it doesn’t do it until much later in the game or not at all. I don’t have the schematic yet for this game, so if anyone can tell me where to look that would be great.

As mentioned, I have not shopped this at all yet, so I’m sure the steppers and everything else still need to be cleaned and serviced.

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#2 4 years ago

I just went thru a JO and that was one of the problems. It is the stepper under the PF, top left as you look at it. "Sequence Bank." And if the targets aren't resetting correctly that's the big bank under the middle of the PF.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from currieddog:

I just went thru a JO and that was one of the problems. It is the stepper under the PF, top left as you look at it. "Sequence Bank." And if the targets aren't resetting correctly that's the big bank under the middle of the PF.

Do you happen to have that section of the schematic you could also post? I'll take a look this evening when I head back over to the garage where my games are.

#4 4 years ago

The Target Bank Reset relay should fire when the current sequence has been completed.
Jacks Open Target Bank Reset relay (resized).jpgJacks Open Target Bank Reset relay (resized).jpg
If the targets don't reset reliably when any sequence has been completed it could be one of the common switches in either of the smaller red boxes. If it happens more often on specific sequences it's more likely to be one or more switches in the large red box, including the Sequence Unit stepper wipers.

/Mark

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

The Target Bank Reset relay should fire when the current sequence has been completed.
[quoted image]
If the targets don't reset reliably when any sequence has been completed it could be one of the common switches in either of the smaller red boxes. If it happens more often on specific sequences it's more likely to be one or more switches in the large red box, including the Sequence Unit stepper wipers.
/Mark

Thank you. And is the Sequence Unit Stepper the mini stepper on the bottom-board of this game, back close to the transformer? Since I don't have the schematic, I wasn't sure what it's "letter" is. There's also at least one mini-stepper in the head, along with (of course) the ball count stepper.

#6 4 years ago

The Sequence Unit has Add and Reset coils and has 5 positions so I suspect it's a full sized step unit.

The only AS mini stepper I see on the schematic is the FS/00-90 unit which I'd expect to be in the head.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

The Sequence Unit has Add and Reset coils and has 5 positions so I suspect it's a full sized step unit.
The only AS mini stepper I see on the schematic is the FS/00-90 unit which I'd expect to be in the head.

That worked. I slightly adjusted and cleaned both of the common switches, because even though it was happening most of the time between two jacks and three queens, occasionally would also happen when only all the red targets were up for special.

I also serviced the stepper unit, and then I played about 10 games on the machine and it seem to work 100% of the time.

OK, onto the aesthetic stuff – shopping and beautifying this great game. Will try to post some pictures as I go, and also I’ll post additional questions in case I run across anything else mechanical. Thank you again Mark!

Mark

3 weeks later
#8 4 years ago

When I picked up the game, my initial thought was to not do a full repaint and not replace the backglass.

I'm selling the game once it's done, and now that I've cleaned it up well, added new drop targets, etc., I'm second-guessing whether I should just bite the bullet and:

a.) do a full repaint (probably adds $175 to my costs but I can add that to the sale price, plus some for my labor)

b.) order a BGResto glass for this (probably adds $350 to costs, and can also add to the sale price for this)

So the cost of the game goes up, as does the price, but the final product looks way better.

Wanted to get this group's thoughts? Would you repaint? Or leave as-is? I've also posted a couple of pics of the glass. Pretty much all the reds are cracked and flaking.

The pics below show my attempts to just touch up the black and red parts (didn't touch the white). The red isn't a perfect match and I don't (yet!) have airbrushing skills, but I can foresee that in my future.
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#9 4 years ago

UPDATE: I pulled the trigger on a new BGResto glass this morning.

Still debating the full repaint using the Pinball Pimp stencils. I usually do this, but as mentioned above had originally thought maybe not. Now I'm leaning toward the repaint.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

UPDATE: I pulled the trigger on a new BGResto glass this morning.
Still debating the full repaint using the Pinball Pimp stencils. I usually do this, but as mentioned above had originally thought maybe not. Now I'm leaning toward the repaint.

Your touch-ups look all right to me, and the rest of the cabinet isn’t bad.

#11 4 years ago

I agree with leckmeck above, the cabinet does not look bad.

Alberto

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from leckmeck:

Your touch-ups look all right to me, and the rest of the cabinet isn’t bad.

What do y'all think about the missing white at the corners and botton-front of the head? Try to match by mixing paints and hand-touch up? Or just leave the missing areas?

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

What do y'all think about the missing white at the corners and botton-front of the head? Try to match by mixing paints and hand-touch up? Or just leave the missing areas?

I'm a patina guy. I do a lot to my games, but I'm not into full restores. Don't get me wrong, they look great. I'd be afraid to play them. That missing white is minor and it will probably only bother you.

#14 4 years ago

Putting the playfield back together. Will get to the final trouble-shooting phase tomorrow. The game came out really nice - only exception is those wear spots around the flippers. I tried wipe off poly and that helped some. Doesn't affect game-play at all but I do wish that part was nicer. Maybe the brand-new backglass (once it arrives) will help offset that in a buyer's mind.

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#15 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Putting the playfield back together. Will get to the final trouble-shooting phase tomorrow. The game came out really nice - only exception is those wear spots around the flippers. I tried wipe off poly and that helped some. Doesn't affect game-play at all but I do wish that part was nicer. Maybe the brand-new backglass (once it arrives) will help offset that in a buyer's mind.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good.

#17 4 years ago

OK just one or two very minor things to troubleshoot on the jacks up and I put back together this weekend.

Here’s a video below about one of them. Sorry that it’s tilted sideways a bit:

#18 4 years ago

Is the Sequence Bank reset arm retracting fully? The diamond's Rollover relay (1B, 2B, 3B or 4B) may not be physically strong enough to push the Sequence Bank's reset arm that little bit extra that it's not retracting on its own.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Is the Sequence Bank reset arm retracting fully? The diamond's Rollover relay (1B, 2B, 3B or 4B) may not be physically strong enough to push the Sequence Bank's reset arm that little bit extra that it's not retracting on its own.

Thanks, Howard -- I'll check and see if I can discern anything. Maybe, too, the arm isn't fully seated or something.

#20 4 years ago

Howard, thank you. One of the switches on that sequence bank wasn't closing when the plate was pulled in and it was a hard one to see. Adjusted and the games works 100% now. Thank you!

4 weeks later
#21 3 years ago

Question: Currently the score thresholds for a free game are set at 90,000 and 120,000.

The knocker does go off for both. However, I notice that for 90,000 it’s a very faint knock, kind of like it’s not getting a real strong signal. For 120,000 it’s a very nice loud knock.

Would this most likely be an issue with the Jones plug that controls the score threshold settings? Or should I be looking elsewhere?

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

The game came out really nice - only exception is those wear spots around the flippers. I tried wipe off poly and that helped some. Doesn't affect game-play at all but I do wish that part was nicer.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think you've done a nice job with the cleanup and overhaul.

It is possible to repair the wear spots around the flippers without spending much at all, but you will spend a few hours. More a labor of love than cash outlay.

The link below is an example of a repair I did to my JO a few years ago. I don't recommend it to everyone, but it seems you have a good skillset, I'd offer to do it for you if I lived closer.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2JHvFjubhVp6uR3P7

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Question: Currently the score thresholds for a free game are set at 90,000 and 120,000.
The knocker does go off for both. However, I notice that for 90,000 it’s a very faint knock, kind of like it’s not getting a real strong signal. For 120,000 it’s a very nice loud knock.
Would this most likely be an issue with the Jones plug that controls the score threshold settings? Or should I be looking elsewhere?

Could be the decagon unit’s circuit board. They sometimes have pitting at certain positions/thresholds.

Could be the make-break switch on the 100k relay. Might not be closed tight enough in the NC state.

Could be the jones plug for the 90k threshold. Oxidation, loose joint, etc.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from leckmeck:

Could be the decagon unit’s circuit board. They sometimes have pitting at certain positions/thresholds.
Could be the make-break switch on the 100k relay. Might not be closed tight enough in the NC state.
Could be the jones plug for the 90k threshold. Oxidation, loose joint, etc.

Thanks, Leckmeck -- I'll check these out.

2 months later
#25 3 years ago

Can you post a picture of the ball count unit, some one cut the jumpers and just want to confirm I'm putting them in the correct places. Thanks

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