(Topic ID: 271477)

GTB Dimension AB relay not closing.....

By DropTarget

3 years ago


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AB Relay (resized).jpg
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Dimension Control Bank Reset (resized).jpg
#1 3 years ago

Hi all,

I'm wrapping up the a Dimension restoration. The last remains issue is that when 500 points is scored, the control bank rests. I'm pretty sure that isn't normal!

Any thoughts on why this may be occurring?

TIA

#2 3 years ago

If the outer leaves on the Make/Break switch on the Reset Completed relay are connected somehow you'd see that.
Dimension Control Bank Reset (resized).jpgDimension Control Bank Reset (resized).jpg
/Mark

#3 3 years ago

Thank you Mark,

I'll check them out and let you know the result as soon as I can.

-W

#4 3 years ago

Thank you Mark,

I found a strand of wire that was going on one switch that was making contact with a big from the next switch. That stopped the control bank from resetting. However now a similar / different issue happens that must be related to those switches.....

If all the targets on one bank are hit, the wow lights. Then if a 500pt target or rollover is made, the drop target bank reset bank on that side fires. all the drop targets are down, and a 500pt rollover or target or even a drop target (50pts) is made, both sets of drop targets reset. And when the ball drains, the wow does not go out.

oh, and sometimes, hitting there lit bullseye resets the target bank as well.

The only relay I messed with is the reset completed relay.

< ------- scratching my head!

Edit: And then it magically disappeared! I'm sure it the issue will show it's ugly head again. Would it be alright to contact you when / if it does?

-Wayne

#5 3 years ago

Update.

This issue of the control bank has come back intermittently along with the other drop target bank issues.

It's definitely the adjustment on that make or break switch on the Reset Completed relay. I get it adjusted just right, it behaves for a little while and then acts up again. And now the drop target bank sometimes don't reset at the start of a new game. I'm guessing also associated with the control bank switch gapping. The darn thing is so difficult to get to. It feels like I'm trying to adjust a CC machine, not a Gottlieb!

There are also a few playfield scoring issues that can be attributed to pf switch adjustments that need to be accomplished.

Stick a fork in me for tonight......

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

The darn thing is so difficult to get to.

Trip relay banks can be rotated up for better access if you loosen the wing nuts on either end. Also check the solder tabs on the back side of the trip relay bank. They can be packed in together pretty tightly so if one is bent it could introduce a short.

#7 3 years ago

Thank you.

Even with the bank rotated, it was near impossible to work on, due to it's position in the cabinet in relation to the pf.

I had to unscrew the whole unit and shift it forward, where it's now more accessible.

The latest issue is that the AB relay (yellow green complete relay) does not trip when all of the yellow & green targets are down. There is continuity across all of the switches when closed, the coil is good and it appears that the relay switches are gapped correctly, The individual Yellow and Green Sequence relays appear to be adjusted correctly as well and the pull in when all of their respective drop targets are down.

I did find a relay plate that was misaligned on the start relay and a round pad (looks like a large contact) that gets attached to the relay plates, where a switch on the underside rests on. It fell out while moving the control bank around. There appear to be 3 missing on other plates.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

The latest issue is that the AB relay (yellow green complete relay) does not trip when all of the yellow & green targets are down. There is continuity across all of the switches when closed, the coil is good and it appears that the relay switches are gapped correctly.

Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#9 3 years ago

Already did. No luck.

I'm assuming that since LB circuit works, and both Y & Z pull in. The problem must lie somewhere in those relays. Everything else os common to LB

If I ground the Gr-Wh wire at the AB switch, the really does trip.

#10 3 years ago

If the LB relay works then the circuit in @howardr's schematic is good from the right edge to the blue+white wire after the Motor 3B switch. What happens if you jumper around the Z relay switch, or the Y relay switch, or both switches? That should help you determine where the issue is.

#11 3 years ago

Good thinking.

If I jump Y-BL from the Z relay to the Gr-WH on the AB relay, the circuit works

on the right track.......

with y and z closed, there is a path on both gr-wh and y-bl to the AB relay. they go to two different switches. if I jump those two leafs together the circuit works. I'm now looking to see if there's a broken jumper between the two switches EDIT: Nope, no missing jumper.

Note: the y-bl is the other side of the gr-wh switch on the z relay

So close yet........

#12 3 years ago

I don't understand most of reply 11. But since you can ground green-white to make the AB relay fire, and because the LB relay works, the problem is likely between the green-white wire at the switch on the AB relay an the blue+white wire on the Motor 3B switch. That's two switches (on the Y and Z relays) and the solder joints and wire between them. Do things work if you jumper around either one of those two switches?

#13 3 years ago

lol,

I doin't understand most of it myself!

stay tuned......what exactly should I be jumping? Should I just wait until Thursday so this can be a learning experience for others?

#14 3 years ago

It might be worth the time (~10 minutes) to pull out that board so you can really examine every switch on that bank. It’s such a nuisance to work on from a remove, especially when it’s in the rear of the cabinet where it’s deepest, like it is on Dimension. Also, bank switches behave differently in the service position because of the different gravity. Once you get it out of the cabinet, you can really see how the switches make/break when tripped, if there are any tabs touching things they shouldn’t, solder splashes, etc.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from leckmeck:

It might be worth the time (~10 minutes) to pull out that board so you can really examine every switch on that bank. It’s such a nuisance to work on from a remove, especially when it’s in the rear of the cabinet where it’s deepest, like it is on Dimension. Also, bank switches behave differently in the service position because of the different gravity. Once you get it out of the cabinet, you can really see how the switches make/break when tripped, if there are any tabs touching things they shouldn’t, solder splashes, etc.

It was a thought. Unscrewing the bank allowed me to move it to a more workable position. I may end up removing the board, but in the mean time would like to keep the pf connected since relays on the pf are part of the circuit.

#16 3 years ago

In regard to post #11:

If I jump these two wires (Gr-Wh and Y-Bl), which are on adjacent switches on the AB relay, the circuit works as advertised.

If I then hold open either Z or Y relays, AB opens, so Z and Y appear to be working correctly. The black wire runs to the tilt relay.
AB Relay (resized).jpgAB Relay (resized).jpg

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I did find a relay plate that was misaligned on the start relay and a round pad (looks like a large contact) that gets attached to the relay plates, where a switch on the underside rests on. It fell out while moving the control bank around. There appear to be 3 missing on other plates.

PBR has stock of those plates with the insulating lifter. They are needed to ensure good make/break operation on those lower switches labelled “armature” on the schematic. They also insulate the bank from the line voltage on the LB and AB armature switches. Without the insulation, those switches will touch the assembly and juice it up with 120 volts. I got a good zap from an electrified bank while adjusting something on my Mini Pool.

#18 3 years ago

Thanks,

I found out about 120V yesterday

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

If I jump these two wires (Gr-Wh and Y-Bl), which are on adjacent switches on the AB relay, the circuit works as advertised.

The yellow-blue wire is in the circuit that drives the G relay and is not part of the circuit that drives the AB relay. It is a similar but completely separate circuit. If shorting green-white to yellow-blue makes things work I think that would be consistent with the problem suggested in reply 12:

Quoted from MarkG:

the problem is likely between the green-white wire at the switch on the AB relay an the blue+white wire on the Motor 3B switch.

#20 3 years ago

Update:

I noticed that when the red and blue sequence complete relays close, the G relay closes, the score motor runs the game adds a ball, then the LB relay closes to light the wows.

On the AB circuit, the ball is not added and the relay does not close.

Soooooo, I looked a bit closer at the AB relay and noticed the switch that is responsible for closing the G relay was open when it is a N.C. switch. I corrected that problem. Now when the Z and Y (green and yellow sequence complete) relays close, the G relay closes but, the score motor keeps running and balls keep getting added. If I open either the Y or Z relay the circuit gets interrupted.

#21 3 years ago

Fixed!

Sort of.......

I think the issue was a cold solder joint on the G relay. As of now the circuit works as it should. The next issue that reared its ugly head is that both sets of drop targets randomly reset during play when the WoWs are lit. I'm guessing something gapped too closely. Will have to look closely again.

Thanks all.

#22 3 years ago

Arrgggggggg!!!!!!!!

It's back!

Tuns out that wasn't the issue, or at least not the only one. The machine behaved it's self for a little while, then I noticed that the G relay wasn't sitting correctly in its mount. I kept my fingers crossed and put it back on to the bracket, correctly this time. Then it started acting up again. This time I've traced the issue to......wait for it........

Quoted from MarkG:

the problem is likely between the green-white wire at the switch on the AB relay an the blue+white wire on the Motor 3B switch

If I jump the gr-wh on the AB relay to the Y-BL on 3B, the circuit works again. This is odd/funny/frustrating as I've done that in the past with no results.

If only I had hair to pull out.

UPDATE to the UPDATE. If I jump BR-WH on Z relay to Gr-WH on AB relay the circuit works.

UPDATE to the Update to the UPDATE.

FIXED!!!!!

twas the switch on Y relay. It was closing, there was continuity, but I guess it needed more pressure on it. That and a few other issues that were in line with it made this difficult to troubleshoot. All seems to be good now (for now).

Thanks for the group's help and patience.

Oh and yes, I really hate those armature switches

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Arrgggggggg!!!!!!!!
It's back!
Tuns out that wasn't the issue, or at least not the only one. The machine behaved it's self for a little while, then I noticed that the G relay wasn't sitting correctly in its mount. I kept my fingers crossed and put it back on to the bracket, correctly this time. Then it started acting up again. This time I've traced the issue to......wait for it........

If I jump the gr-wh on the AB relay to the Y-BL on 3B, the circuit works again. This is odd/funny/frustrating as I've done that in the past with no results.
If only I had hair to pull out.
UPDATE to the UPDATE. If I jump BR-WH on Z relay to Gr-WH on AB relay the circuit works.
UPDATE to the Update to the UPDATE.
FIXED!!!!!
twas the switch on Y relay. It was closing, there was continuity, but I guess it needed more pressure on it. That and a few other issues that were in line with it made this difficult to troubleshoot. All seems to be good now (for now).
Thanks for the group's help and patience.
Oh and yes, I really hate those armature switches

Sometimes we need to crush a contact pad with needlenose pliers, I seen where these will become isolated...

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Sometimes we need to crush a contact pad with needlenose pliers, I seen where these will become isolated...

Thanks Ken.

It was a combination of things. A real pain to track down. It's still occasionally acting up. That has to do with the armature switches. If they're not perfectly gapped the drop target banks either reset when a target is hit, or the score motor keeps running.

I've also once (just once) gotten shocked while touching both flipper buttons with the left side drop targets down. I'm attributing that to the armature missing the pad that the switch rests on.

I'm not looking forward to replacing the armatures and resetting the switches yet again. Maybe I'll just put in a grounded plug.

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