(Topic ID: 244808)

GTB 1965 Skyline-resto notes

By wayner

4 years ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by wayner
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#1 4 years ago

In the past I have documented a number of restos which included cab repaints. While I certainly prefer the original patina at times it may be so dilapidated or emasculated by poor touch ups that a repaint is necessary. That was the case with this Skyline. The cab front was fairly typical of the cab condition.

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My preferred stencil approach is to avoid adhesive stencils because generally they do not allow the spray bleed as per the original manufacturing process. Now that process used metal re-usable stencils but of course without the home equipment that for most of us is not available. I have therefore typically used mdf board for the stencils after first taking a graphics trace , transferring the trace to the mdf then cutting the stencil with a jigsaw-I use a fine tooth metal blade as it provides a nice fine cut and importantly does not rip the reverse side of the mdf. This is important as each re-usable stencil is used for both sides of the cab (except the fronts of course).

I wanted to specifically cover my approach to Skyline because the graphics include multiple continuous blue vertical and horizontal borders. For these borders my traditional mdf approach was not possible so I decided to fabricate blue border stencils using moulding from the local hardware store. All up the mdf for the red and non border blues and the moulding cost about $70. This compares to purchase of a retail stencil kit which with exchange rate and shipping would for me cost somewhere towards $A450.

These are pics covering some of the process:

-initial tsf of trace to mdf

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-after jigsaw cutout and registration check with original graphics

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-registration check for backbox blue horizontal borders

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-cab primed

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-cab base coat

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Unfortunately I did not take a pic of the webbing application prior to graphics application but will appear in finished pics.

-spray process

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Once the stencils have been fabricated and before removing cab paint I double check each stencil registration with the original cab graphics.Then cab paint is removed and structural/cosmetic cab issues addressed. The paint on this machine comprises white primer, base coat, webbing, red panels, blue border verticals and blue border horizontals. Examination of the original paint indicated the factory had sprayed the vertical and horizontal borders separately.

These are the spray guns I use:

-a high volume low pressure gravity feed gun (inexpensive) for the base coat

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-a high pressure touch up gun (inexpensive) for the primer, webbing and general graphics

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-a Badger Anmthem 155 airbrush (not an el-cheapo) for the fine work; in this case the blue borders

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These are the stencils after use:

-backbox front and red squares

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-backbox blue vertical and horizontal borders

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-cab front and red squares

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-cab front blue vertical and horizontal borders

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-cab sides blue vertical and horizontal borders

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These are the finished pics:

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Overall I am happy with result and hope the process is of value to other pinsiders. I will post further pics when the complete resto is finished.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Great job!!! I just finish a cabinet with poster board as the stencil. It worked but I’d much rather do what you did here.

Thanks. You know its a funny thing I am not a tradesman but I prefer using a jigsaw to an exacto or retractable blade knife which is probably why I have used mdf.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Impressive work as always, Wayne! Question: how do you transfer the trace onto the MDF board in the first place? I’ve never figured out that step. I’ve always only used the “Pinball Pimp” stencils, which turned out great, but may want to try this at some point.

Thks Mark. I cut the tracing paper to create the outline for transfer to the mdf board. This is an example on the orange colour re my Double play. Best rgds Wayne

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3 weeks later
#9 4 years ago

I have now completed a full resto of this machine (awaiting centre top hat cap from PBR) so have amended the thread title (original thread covered cab repaint).
The operation of this machine when acquired was decent but the machine suffered from a lack of operational TLC and various cosmetic issues hence the cab repaint.

The polycarbonate backing the elevator graphics was badly burnt and replaced it with a fabricated piece taken from a sheet obtained from the local recycling centre. I used a forstner bit which worked well for making the hole through which the floor arrow protrudes.

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The backglass had some flaking so it was sealed and touched up. Of particular concern was the degradation of the graphic ‘ADVANCES’ above the elevator arrow. I decided to recreate the graphics and transfer them to a decal sheet reverse applied. Came out fairly well.

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The pf had significant wear/gouge spots above the flippers and the upper ball trail. After subtle sanding I provided a mix of shellac flakes and methylated spirits in an endeavour to get a colour match finish. Results in my experience in these situations are rarely perfect but I am happy the work is an an improvement.

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These are the completed pics. I really like the graphics and gameplay logic of Skyline. I am happy with result and it certainly will be a keeper.

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#15 4 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Just noticed that your elevator (lift?) floor indicator arrow is white.
It should be blue.

jr the arrow is not white but a form of silver and I believe original. Other than clean I did not change the colour of the original. This seems to be supported by non sample games shown on ipbd.

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I did respray the doors as at some point the bottom of the left door had been cut away-presumably to overcome a door slide issue. However I repaired the cut away and serviced the mechanism and it works fine.

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#17 4 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Hmm. The ones I've had (several!),
and the one on my brother's game are kind of a grayish blue; similar to the sliding doors. Yours may be faded.
As far as the doors go, they commonly chip and crack at the bottom corners, likely what happened with yours.[quoted image]

Yes I can see your point jr-the pic you have shown indicates at the tip that the fade probably goes to a silverish grey and now I recall how the doors had gone (pic below). I will repaint the arrow at some point-thks.

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On my door which does not show that well in the earlier pic it was definitely cut away (shows better in pic above) not caused by wear but the repair is difficult to detect-I think.

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#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

How did you repair the door?

Unfortunately no specific pics. But I used a very light gauge tab of sheetmetal (around 3/4 x 1/2in) and affixed that to the rear of the cut away using epoxy 'cold weld'. I then used auto filler to create the finish, sanded and resprayed. Repair is not visible from the front. I was worried that even the minimal extra thickness at that section may effect door movement but no problem.

I also noted that the fold on the left of that door had also become partly delaminated from the front - presumably fatigue from constant opening and closing. I used a narrow tab, again affixed with cold weld, down the inner side to repair the delamination and provide continuing strength.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Hmm. The ones I've had (several!),
and the one on my brother's game are kind of a grayish blue; similar to the sliding doors. Yours may be faded.
As far as the doors go, they commonly chip and crack at the bottom corners, likely what happened with yours.[quoted image]

...thks for the advice jr. Elevator arrow synchronised with doors.

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#24 4 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

How did you make your decal in a semi-circle?

A friend kindly produced the artwork which I transferred to clear decal paper and printed on my printer. Happy to share the artwork if it is needed by anyone.

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