I beg to disagree...I have worked on more Gottlieb Pinball machines than anyone here....for 39 years. We have reconditioned several thousand of them...and once we have done our mods, they rarely fail. Of course, you are welcome to do all that extra nonsense if you desire. And then when you have to take a board out or move it to another game, remake all those silly screws and wires on the next board!

Here they are:
1. Rebuild the System 80 power supply--there are full kits out there--reheat the header pins before you put board back together. On system 80A and B, tighten the transistor screws, reflow header pins, and squirt the pot. Then burnish all the silver header pins with a fiberglass eraser. Rarely does that regulator go bad. The system 80 and 80B power supplies are very good. (However, on System 1 games, I suggest you put in a brand new power supply.)
2. On System 80 and 80A, and some 80B games...add the extra ground wire on the interconnect cable. We simply remove a wire from a "parts" connector...that way you have the exact pin premade for you! By doing this simple easy mod, the logic board now makes a firm solid ground connection to the driver board!
3. Burnish ALL the foil traces on the logic and driver boards the plugs plug into with a fiberglass eraser. Then with contact cleaner, squirt al the plugs before reconnecting.
4. On System 80A and some B games, the bottom transformer mod HAS to be done (I have a video showing how to do this)...it solves well over a dozen odd problems.
5. On logic board of system 80A and 80B hat has that little satellite board...it is loaded with cold solder connectors both on the main board and UNDER the little satellite board. We always remove them with our solder station and reheat everything...HOWEVER, this may not be possible for you if you do not have the right knowledge and equipment.
6. The early System 80 and some System 80A games need the pop bumper boards updated...its simple and doesn't require any new parts, and pretty much bulletproofs those little boards from every failing again. I have a video up on this.

IF THE BATTERY LEAKED---on either system, you may have to change the connectors below that damn battery. I suggest you buy new connectors from Docent Electronics...we have bought dozens and dozens of them and they come with heat shrink for the ends. You can also buy new interconnect cables too. About one in ten of these interconnect cables have to be "fooled" with to make them work right...but thats easy to do.

There you have it all!! Todd