We use this type of an interactive setup for many of our mods. I don't have a grogu to mod, but if people want the wiring bundled so all they would have to do is make the connection to Grogu and plug it into the game, we could provide that setup. I would provide bare wires to connect to Grogu, you'd just have to make that connection with basic soldering or whatever method you choose. I didn't see anyone else say they were making a bundled set up, but if someone else is doing it, happy to rescind my offer as I don't want to infringe on anyone. If anyone is interested, just PM me.

It can be DIYed for sure, but you should solder the wires on to the photo sensor board and not use those screw terminals as they often come loose. You also have to solder wires on to the regulator board and connect it to the photo sensor board (again with solder not screw terminals) as well as setting it to the proper voltage. Totally doable diy, but you really should have an understanding how all the wiring works as it is very easy to screw things up and either blow up grogu, fry your photo/regulator boards and/or cause an issue with the game. That is not meant to scare anyone, just be careful with the connections and make sure they are right, ask questions if you aren't sure. If you aren't comfortable with it, I am offering help.

why not trigger it off the "Child" insert on the left orbit? In your video, looks like the letters are more active so you get more movement and maybe that’s why it’s better to use one of them?

Modded a grogu for my game today. Instructions by Acejedi were excellent. I went slow and methodical and it was fine. One area to emphasize is removing his left arm, the one that moves. Take a good pic before you take it off and pay attention to the orientation. The instructions mention this, but it’s worth repeating.

Mounting him is definitely a challenge. I could not get full motion for his left arm because the center ramp obstructs the upswing. I get some movement, but not the full range. You also have to mount him low enough so his head doesn’t hit the glass channel and forward enough so his head doesn’t hit the back board and has full range of motion. His right ear barely touches the side board. It’s a bit fiddly, but you definitely can get him in. He also fits snug enough so you don’t need any physical mounting brackets.

All in all, it’s a great addition to the game!

7D2FA220-2F39-453D-A2DD-6C93B5FC5D85 (resized).jpeg

5v. It runs off 3 AA, which is just 4.5v, I probably should lower the voltage just a tad more down to 4.5v.

The grogus on Amazon are about $55 shipped, says 13 left in stock.

This wasn’t my idea by any stretch so I don’t want to infringe on anyone who might be offering this as a mod, not sure if Acejedi is, but I’m willing to put a kit together for people if they want it since I have stock of all the materials needed EXCEPT the grogu. You would be responsible for purchasing the grogu and either sending it to me or having it shipped directly to me.

If anyone is selling this as a packaged mod, please let me know and I’ll rescind this offer and you can have the business. It’s not something I really want to be doing because it’s pretty time consuming and my time is pretty limited these days, but it is pretty cool so if people want it, I’ll do it.

If you are interested, pm me.

Yes, that’s the one,

Don’t think I posted this from my game. For those who are making their own and for those I’m making it for, notice how he fits. No mechanical mount, he just fits snuggly in that area. The trick is to keep his head from hitting the glass channel and the backboard. Only his left arm moves and it won’t have full range of motion because of the ramp, but it’s still pretty good movement. Such a cool mod when playing, really does add a lot to the game.

Moves his head back and forth, closes/opens his eyes, raises/lowers his hand, moves his ears. The sound is removed, but you won’t really hear it during gameplay anyway.

So far so good on mine remaining in place. Easy enough to add a bracket if needed or You could also use a couple of long screws to go through the mounting holes for the stock grogu into the back of the new grogu.

I’m not an audiophile, but I wouldn’t do that and doubt it would work. Probably blow the speaker in grogu at a minimum.

If you follow the directions presented by acejedi, you might be able to do it yourself. Depends on your skill level as it does require soldering. I do it a little differently than the instructions as I solder wires directly to the boards and don’t use the terminal screws. I also use a different regulator. It really depends on how comfortable you are with it. I’ve offered the wiring set up, just pm me.

Modding grogu isn’t bad, just go slow and follow the directions, which are very clear. The trickiest part is reattaching his left arm so just take pics and remember the position the arm was in when you took it off. I also solder wires off the motor rather than use the wire crimps acejedi shows as it’s a better connection.

On a scale of 1 to 10, I’d say it’s maybe a 5 or a 6. If you aren’t sure about something, ask questions here or pm me, happy to help.

He will move any time that insert is lit, it will be in a somewhat halting manner when it flashes.

Can’t really tell what’s triggering his movement, seems random. What have you triggered it off?

Edit: just saw your earlier post.

You can mount grogu with a couple of long screws to go through the stock mounting holes and into the new grogu’s back. 3” drywall screws, for example, may work. Personally, haven’t tried it as mine isn’t moving, but this is what I’d try first. I’m sure there are other creative ways to keep him in place. You just have to make sure his head can move properly.

you can use a long screw (like a 3" drywall screw) to secure him through the stock mounting holes if he moves out of place.

I don’t have a pic because I haven’t had to do it, mine is staying in place without any mount, but you would just go from the back of the backboard through the stock mounting holes.

The part about removing his arm was referring to diy for grogu. There is a rubber clasp the left arm attaches to that can be tricky to remove and reattach. If you are modding grogu yourself, you have to rotate the arm up to remove the rubber clasp. No soldering involved.

I’m glad I could get it out to you. Acejedi is the original maker and you can buy from him directly,. If you can’t reach him or want it quickly, we do turn orders around in about a day as I have been burning the midnight oil filling mod orders. It’s on our website.

You could use a less active insert, such as the child insert on the left orbit by the spinner. I only have a pro so I can’t test the magnet, but that’s a very different setup.

yes, but it's not a full range of motion. His arm will move about half way up and that's about it. No way around it because of the ramp.

The voltages are different for the magnet, dont think you want to do that.

You are welcome, but ACEJEDI deserves the credit for the mod, we are just helping meet some of the demand (and answer any technical questions.)

I agree that it is a game changer for sure. Having him move compared to the static stock Grogu really changes how you perceive the game. it doesn't affect game play of course, but it does provide a more interactive experience.

I was hesitant to respond, but you accused me of doing something that isn’t true and you don’t have all the facts. I’m not going to share everything, but will respond once and I hope this doesn’t turn into something it shouldn’t be. To directly answer your questions, I have not hijacked this mod, not even sure what that means and, yes, I would not be happy if someone copied my mod, especially without reaching out first to ask if it was ok. That said, it happens all the time and it’s part of the business, like it or not, nothing is patented.

At first, I didn’t realize joe was making kits and thought it was diy only, which, in fact, was his original motivation, so I offered to put the wiring harness together for people as that’s pretty tricky. Even wiring the doll isn’t easy. I have been in touch with joe to discuss me helping pick up demand he could not fill (and giving him a cut) as he seems pretty busy with his day job, I think he travels a lot. I’m able to do it because this is an exact setup we use for most of our interactive mods so we have good stock of the parts and the expertise to do it. His set up is not original, but again, he deserves all the credit for tying it into the grogu doll. I have asked him if he wants me to stop making them and he did not tell me to do that. I have always given him credit for his mod. I have pointed people to buy from him, but it’s not easy because he doesn’t have a website and people have told me he doesn’t always respond to pms. I believe he also isn’t selling them internationally.

I have been active in this thread trying to help people troubleshoot and answer questions, Joe has not, perhaps because his time is limited, but I don’t really know. Nowhere did I say buy it from me or point people to where they can get it from me, at his expense. I thought my posts made this pretty clear, including the ones you linked. I offered to help people who could not do it themselves and/or could not get in contact with Joe. I asked if anyone was selling kits to step forward and I’d stop, nobody did.

Joe and I are on good terms based on our last interaction. I hope this helps clarify some things, but I know I can’t appease everyone and people can choose to think the best or the worst.

You are causing drama and your facts are confused. I have no idea what joe sells his mod setup for, where is that posted? I never posted any pricing here. I think maybe you have me confused with another guy who was selling the mod here on pinside (jmrazek) in a separate thread and I think also on fb, which I heard caused some issues. I’m not on fb so I am not entirely sure what went on there, just heard about it through a third party.

I did speak with Joe and did exactly what you said, offered to fill any overflow he couldn’t handle and give him a cut of that overflow.

Did you try turning the sensitivity screw.

But your wiring looks wrong to me, or at least that’s not how I do it. You should have a power and ground wire coming into the side where the sensor wire is, that goes to game 12v. instead, I just see a black and green wire. On the other side, you should connect to the voltage regulator and then to the grogu.

F3C26051-9FCE-454F-9C93-D3FB51BFB349 (resized).jpeg

With the cover on the black box and the glass on you can barely hear that clicking, but the clicking is normal, it's just the relay going on and off when the sensor is activated. During game play you can't hear anything.

The movement of your grogu in your video looks pretty normal and I think he's moving well. the left arm hitting the ramp is nothing to be concerned about, its not like it can be stripped or do any harm.

Getting him positioned is the hardest part. One thing you can try to do is trim a little more plastic off the bottom of his body so he sits just a little lower in the back position. just pull back his coat open to expose the plastic body and either dremel or snip off a bit more of the bottom.

nope, impossible to switch arms, but I agree would be nice to have the option.

Error on our website, they are in stock now, sorry and thanks for the heads up.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/the-mandalorian-animated-interactive-grogu

I have mine running off the child insert on the left orbit. It will run in attract mode, which I like, but using the child insert, it’s nice that it coincides with the callout “go see the child” and then he starts moving. Originally, I had it triggering off one of the letters and I felt that was too much and too random.

Having taken apart many of these, I don’t find the quality to be particularly cheap. The motor, which is all we reuse, seems fairly decent and while I can’t speak much for longevity as I’ve only been running mine a few months, it’s still going strong and I have no reports of any failing.

As you say, your mileage may vary and it’s interesting to see others come up with alternatives to suit what they want.

For those not wanting grogu to move in attract mode, you can add this inline switch along the power line. I have ordered the switch and will shoot a video of how to do it when it arrives next week. All you need to do is cut the wire about 6” where it connects to power and solder in the switch. Just make sure you use the same color wire for input and output. I’d rate it a 2 on a scale of 1 to 10 for difficulty. Our version of grogu connects into the backbox so if you want to run the switch to the coindoor and back to the backbox, you’ll need about 12 feet of wire. Otherwise, it’s just a matter of opening the backbox and flipping the on/off switch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FT4RBBM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_5BJC8SWDV19XDEA5TWA9

That will not work on the input side of of the black box, but it might work on the output side. The input needs to be 12v to power the relay board. We run the grogu at 7.5v, stepping it down from the 15v motor. If you step it down too much, you might not have enough power to run him and could damage the motor.

There is an easier solution. Inside the black box, you will see a small green regulator board. On that regulator board is a small silver set screw that allows you to adjust voltage. With the game off, you could turn it maybe an 1/8th of a turn clockwise to see if that is where you like it. Ideally, you want to use a multimeter so you can accurately measure the voltage. With game on and sensor activated, place the probes on the output + and - through holes and you will see it measures about 7.5v. With the probes still on the through holes, you can slowly turn that screw clockwise to lower the voltage down to 5v if you like. I think if you go too low on the voltage, you could generate too much heat and shorten the life of the grogu motor.

Happy to answer questions here or via PM.

Ok, got the cutoff switch today and shot a very short video. I didn't have a helper to hold the camera so I didn't record actual soldering.

Below is a link to the switch I used to stop grogu in attract mode. If anyone has any questions, please let me know. Not planning on making retrofitted adapters, but if someone is considering buying a grogu from me and wants the switch installed, I can probably do it. I have one extra switch as they come in a 2-pack.

TronicsPros 2pcs LED Strip Light Inline On/Off Switch Cable DC Jack (5.5x2.1mm) Male to Female Connector, DC Jack Switch, LED Tape Connector, 12V Inline Rocker Switch DC Power Adapter Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FT4RBBM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RCFAWDGNVXZ2E3TY3Q52

I should have mentioned that. You can use speaker wire if you want, 18-22 gauge is just fine, it’s cheap and easy to find at Home Depot. Hookup wire is another option, a little more expensive, use stranded, not solid. Also use 1/8” heat shrink to insulate the solder joints, electrical tape is also fine, just not as clean of a look.

You can use these or something similar.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JRWCBU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_GNDB0K4C9JFESQ7HJ781

Should be exactly the same, any on/off 12v switch will work.

Zero reported failures on any of our sales of this mod. Two things you can do if you are concerned. First is to use the child insert by the left spinner, which comes on much less frequently compared to using one of the letters in the top lanes. The second one is to add an inline on/off switch, which I documented in this thread, which allows you to easily turn him off in attract mode if his movement bothers you.

If anyone buys one of our grogus and wants an on/off switch for the backbox, happy to accommodate it.

I’ve had mine on for months with no shifting issues. One thing you can do Is use a 2” long screw, go through one of the original mounting holes in the backboard and attach the screw to his back. I’d cut a small slit in his cloth so it doesn’t get caught up in the screw. It’s not the most elegant solution, but it will hold him in place.

Nope, not really exploring that, sorry. I’m pretty happy with how it functions, and the on/off switch helps too.

May not totally appease you, but use the child insert by the left spinner, much less active. Also, very easy to add an on/off switch if you don’t want it active in attract mode. I detailed how to do it in this thread with a short video.

The wiring harness is for those who want to buy and modify their own grogu. The full kit includes the harness and modified grogu, plug and play.

His head should clear the top of the cabinet, but it is very close.