(Topic ID: 227889)

Granite Installers

By Spyderturbo007

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by lancestorm
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    #1 5 years ago

    Is anyone out there a granite installer / expert? I've been considering granite for my 2 level bar, but I'm running into all sorts of discrepancies between granite sellers. I'm running into two different issues.

    1. How much of an overhang can you have without needing supports. I've heard anywhere from 1/3 of what is cantilevered on the other side, to 6", 10" and one vendor told me 11". I can't get a straight answer out of anyone.

    2. How much can granite be shimmed?

    Here is my situation with the bar. When I built the wall, I built it out of 2 x 8's just like a standard wall at 16" OC. The bottom plate is ramset into the concrete. The problem that I have now, is that since the floor isn't level, the top of the wall isn't level. There is a good 1/2" of difference as you go around the perimeter. I have the cabinets completely level, but there is a good bit of difference when moving around the bar.

    My question is that if I install the 1/2" steel hidden supports, can I just level them by routing out different depths in the top of the wall, thereby leveling the steel supports? The problem I see with doing that, is that in some places the granite will only be supported by the steel and there would be gaps between the bottom of the granite and the top of the pony wall.

    I hope I'm making sense....

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    #2 5 years ago

    As a professional designer, I usually do an overhang at 8 inches. Just have your granite installer shim up the difference to level out the granite. Do a thick edge 2 1/4 inch would be nice. Better than 1 1/2 inch. Add some leds under the overhang to show off the bar nicely..

    #3 5 years ago
    Quoted from modfather:

    Add some leds under the overhang to show off the bar nicely..

    Backlit marble looks awesome under a bar.

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    #4 5 years ago
    Quoted from modfather:

    As a professional designer, I usually do an overhang at 8 inches. Just have your granite installer shim up the difference to level out the granite. Do a thick edge 2 1/4 inch would be nice. Better than 1 1/2 inch. Add some leds under the overhang to show off the bar nicely..

    Doesn't the 8" overhang require some amount of cantilever on the other side?

    #5 5 years ago

    Yes, either a 24 inch cabinet OR a 5 inch wide wall it rests on top of. Granite is usual 3/4 inch thick, they with the front edge being doubled up making a 1 1/2 inch thick look. 3 pieces stacked would make that 2 1/4 inch front edge. Plywood is also used underneath it for further support.

    #6 5 years ago

    The only standard I can find is from the National Stone Institute:

    "In designs where the countertop is cantilevered beyond the supports (overhanging), the cantilever shall be limited to 6" (150 mm) for ¾" (20 mm) thick countertops and 10” (250 mm) for 1¼" (30 mm) countertops, but in no case may the cantilevered portion represent more than 1/3 of the width of the countertop. Cantilevered countertops exceeding these dimensions will require corbelled supports beneath the stone."

    Based on their requirements and 1 1/4" stone (no one I spoke to ever mentioned 3/4" stone) and a 7" wide pony wall, my max overhang is ~2". In your example (5" wall), their requirements are no more than 1.25".

    #7 5 years ago

    Have you considered Quartz? Same install, but way more forgiving when it comes to stains and wet spots from glasses that are not on a coaster.

    #8 5 years ago

    I hadn't ruled anything out, until the guy at the cabinet place told me to stay away from it, but I can't seem to remember why.

    It still comes back to this cantilever issue though regardless of what I choose. Unless I go with wood or something else that can be screwed to the pony wall.

    #9 5 years ago

    Fix the bar so it's level and plane all the way around.

    #10 5 years ago

    You are over thinking this. Granite is strong as Hell, unless you are dancing on the overhang, you should be fine.

    -1
    #11 5 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    Have you considered Quartz? Same install, but way more forgiving when it comes to stains and wet spots from glasses that are not on a coaster.

    Too fussy for a countertop. Not good with heat and danger of discoloration from chemical cleaners and acid (lemon, lime, etc) makes it a no-go.

    #12 5 years ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    Have you considered Quartz? Same install, but way more forgiving when it comes to stains and wet spots from glasses that are not on a coaster.

    Quartz is about twice the cost of granite and is less durable than granite. I have granite in my home and it is very dark and I have zero problems with wet spots, glasses and never any staining. So long as you have it sealed about once every two years it is a better product.

    #13 5 years ago

    Late to the party but hope this helps ...

    I have a 9.5” overhang, no cantilevers. Supported by 4.75” wall plus 1.25” granite trim ; 6 inches total of support.

    Installer, a local pro, asked me if anyone was going to be sitting or dancing on the bar, and then glued it down since the answer was no. I don’t know what adhesive he used.

    It’s been fine for 18 months with no movement at all.

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    #14 5 years ago

    ( "quartz" is actually an engineered product 95% quartz 5% resin) , except for heat resistance very equivalent to granite and no need for sealing, , cost wise , all are expensive but other than the lowest cost big box granite I would think equivalent

    maybe for a bar 8 inch overhang ok but 10 or 12 inches much nicer for leg room with sitting , for a long section like you have if using 12 inch overhang I would put a few supports underneath every 36 inches or so, there are some really nice wood or metal corbels that would look great with your bar

    regarding the 1/2 inch unlevel top I would cut a long wedge of strip wood or similar or shim supports every 12 inches or so it should be fine, I would suggest getting it level before the day of installation as the installers might get cranky with something 1/2 out of level. , for gaps underneath, that is what trim is for!

    the work so far looks really nice post a pic when you are done ! I see pins in the background!!

    #15 5 years ago

    You could always disguise the braces by installing a barmaids station in the center of your long run. They take up not much more than one stool space. This would give support and blend them into the build itself.

    #16 5 years ago
    Quoted from RWH:

    Quartz is about twice the cost of granite and is less durable than granite. I have granite in my home and it is very dark and I have zero problems with wet spots, glasses and never any staining. So long as you have it sealed about once every two years it is a better product.

    I disagree. Quartz is less porous than granite and is therefore harder and MORE DURABLE. I Had Quartz (LG "Aria") installed in my home recently. Very price competitive to granite with none of the sealing problems. I don't have to worry about wine or tomato sauce, etc spills.

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