Documenting a Grand lizard Grand Lizard Hardtop swap. Well actually, the owners did the Hardtop already and I’m going to rebuild the mechs and put the machine back together.

It will get new NOS plastics and targets with existing parts all tumbled and ultrasonic’d. Flippers will all get rebuilt and another new Inkochnito board. GI and insert bulbs will go to LED but keeping flashers incandescent. If we find anything broken/damaged/missing it will get replaced.

This is not my typical “playfield swap”, but I’m happy to do these types of projects for those looking. The cabinet was repainted so I have already started to put it back together while parts begin cleaning and tumbling.

And the best part is they have a spare populated playfield so if we find anything broken, damaged, or missing there’s a good chance we have it. The spare playfield isn’t too bad at all.

Merry Christmas!

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They did a great job with the Hardtop! Protective layer is still on....

If you’re going on the rotisserie, there’s a few parts that need to come off the back and front as seen in the pics.

Karolina “waving” hello for Christmas.

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Thanks but it was already done before I got it!

Parts are starting to dry and out of tumbler. Pulled off the protective film. Rails are back on and some of the ball trough area.

We’re not cleaning the harnesses or adding new coil wrappers as it really doesn’t need it. And you really have to strip it down to do so. And again not necessary.

I will tumble/ultrasonic any parts torn down such as the outhole kicker since it’s off.

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Top side coming along. Using frosted sunlight Comet in the GI. Posts and rings are Titans. Two of the flipper bats are cracked and trashed. I have one new white one. It seems that the lowers would lend well to black or orange. Not sure on uppers. Thoughts?

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Most of the plastics installed...

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I have some non logo pair of black bats for testing. I don’t have any other colors unfortunately on hand. Here’s the blacks using orange, red , grey, and clear. I do think orange or translucent would look great.

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I’m assuming you mean the studs or screws for the posts? I think they’ve been replaced when you see studs like that. For screws it seems they use them depending on length but not sure.

Removed the drop target assemblies for a deep cleaning.

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Insert cleaned and replaced all the GI with non ghosting Comet sunlights. I did try a few others but most colors on these inserts should look great with the sunlights.

Lots of Q tips!

Fitted the ramp and realized the longer of the three posts goes to the left. I assumed the middle but assumed wrong!

Going with the 1/2” spacers (ordering more) for the new Cliffy flipper frames. I’m also going to put LED flashers in. I’m worried about the incandescent flasher bulbs melting the hardtop. Especially in some areas like the flipper frames.

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Just an ultrasonic job on the sling mechs and they came out great and in good shape. I didn’t need to rob from the spare.

Switch screws were tumbled as are the switch actuators (tumbling now) on that are on the playfield side to look as nice as the top hardware.

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Not much to post as I’m waiting on new targets. I have some things still left to do but this is where we’re at now.

Back panel installed so plastics can be secured permanently and the ramp is installed. Both flashers on the left and right mid areas are resoldered. They need to be desoldered for the Hardtop install. Same with the ball trough coil. The switches are all tumbled, installed and adjusted.

Cleaned up the rusty ball lockdown receiver and had some new labels to freshen it up. Karolina all alone and wondering where I went lol!

A strip light will be wired to light up the bottom of playfield at flippers. Will keep a plug so they can disconnect if they don’t like it.

Happy New Year’s everyone.

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New bridge board installed along with the flipper bats. Went with black Williams logo bats and red Titans.

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The new red targets are installed. Top side is about done.

New drop targets and decals ready to go.

Playfield top side as of today.

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The Eagle, errr, Lizard has landed! It fits without much fuss. One of the GI strings was out and was a fuse. It was pretty obvious the coin door light had shorted and why it did. Swapped in a fresh 5amp slow blow and it’s good.

Switches especially the bottom lane leaf switches will need tweaked but they all work. All the ramp entry switches work and the spinner got a touch of Superlube. Ripping spinners for days now.

All the coils working including the flippers!

The right entry ramp switch actuator was touching the ramp. I heard this is common so a careful trim with an Exacto knife and it clears.

And yes, the drop target assemblies were assembled and rejoined the playfield while still on the rotisserie.

I have two issues outstanding: the bell isn’t working (haven’t dug into this) and the left flasher/left in lane flasher are both locked on. I have clipped the warming resistors and installed LED’s but not sure where to look here.

Called it a night but will be back tomorrow to dig in.

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Thanks and the trough light really helps it down low.

No, but if the owners want me to, I think it would really pop.

Did some troubleshooting or lack thereof. The bell just needed the switch cleaned and adjusted. So that’s good.

The switches are all adjusted and 100%. They all needed some cleaning up to make good contact. Even the ramp and spinner ones.

The locked on left flashers still has me stumped. I tested Q30 and it tests good. I know they can do that and still be bad. Will post another thread and see if I can get some thoughts. I have transistor and predriver so no problem but doesn’t seem to be the cause. They are the left under flipper frame and left side under plastic above the slings.

The displays are pretty garbled and even some good ribbon cables didn’t help so will attack that after the flasher issue.

Thanks Grumpy. You’ve helped me a bunch of times now. Will follow up tomorrow.

Q30 .63
Q26 1.42 center 2.27
U19 pin 9 1.9 pin 10 5.0

I know that means something is down with the 1.9-2v and should be 5v correct?

Could shot gun and replace both transistors but would rather make sure they’re the issue and not the U19.

Thanks Grumpy. I did these tests in attract and not in testing this flasher in test mode. Is that an issue?

Grumpy, I was losing it last night. I was checking U16.

U19 pin 9: 3.3v pin 10:188.3mv pin 5: 175.4mv

So still some voltage so I cut pin 9 with my anvil cutters at U19. Safe to assume I need a new U19? Now where to find one!

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Yes they still stay on. Pin 8 at U19 4.88v

Thanks Grumpy. I need to find one.

Thanks Grumpy. I ordered some. Will update when they come.

While waiting for U19 to arrive, the new X Pin displays showed up. They’re really nice and replace everything with the displays including the board.

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Thank you GRUMPY ! The new U-19 fixed the issue! Actually it was replaced before so apparently this was an issue for some time and perhaps never resolved. I could believe the top side flasher holder could have had tabs touching each other.

Anyway, so test mode worked perfectly yet we now have factory settings restored. I thought maybe the remote battery holder may have pulled a lead off while I was working on it. Nope!

I have a new holder I’ll put in. Glad this happened as I wouldn’t have thought to check them.

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Yes!

New battery holder is in, flashers all back in place and game plays great! Everything working!!!

BTW, when does the bell work? It works in test but don’t know the game to know what triggers it.

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Thanks! Very cool. The original “credit dot” was a bell.

I had some help! Enjoy the time away. It will be ready when you are.

It’s a fun game and love the music and sound!! The ramp shot is super satisfying with the eyes lighting up. Oh and that spinner!

Added some apron cards and played a few more games. It's a fun one! The Steel It on the lockdown receiver really came out nice with new decals.

I think this one's a wrap!

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