(Topic ID: 54886)

Grand Lizard club. *Mandrills get in free.*

By SPeD66

10 years ago


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  • 1,639 posts
  • 171 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 69 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #99 Fine Tuning Tips Posted by mof (10 years ago)

Post #100 More Fine Tuning Posted by mof (10 years ago)

Post #194 Playing Tips Video Posted by L8vid (9 years ago)

Post #196 BGResto Proto Backglass. Posted by RustyLizard (9 years ago)

Post #510 Possible Buzz Fix Posted by FLASHBALL (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#224 8 years ago

I just picked up a GL, but am having a similar sound issue to one I've seen a couple others post about. The animal sounds (monkey etc.) play at an EXTREMELY low volume (basically inaudible), while all other sounds and the background music play at full volume. To be specific, when I run the Sound Test, sounds 1-6 are very quiet while sounds 0 & 7 seem to be at regular volume.

I've tried looking everywhere for an answer. I ordered new speech and music ROMS and put those in, didn't help at all. Does anyone have any suggestions? These sounds are one of my favorite things about this game and it's driving me crazy that I can't hear them!

2 weeks later
#236 8 years ago

My friends were driving through Davenport, Iowa and just happened upon a new place called Analog Arcade Bar. Apparently they have a GL there with the preproduction backglass AND preproduction plastics. Someone should talk to them about scanning the plastics.

IMG954052.jpgIMG954052.jpg

1 month later
#319 8 years ago

The photo I posted was of a full prototype machine at Analoge Arcade Bar in Davenport, Iowa. If anyone can think of a way to compel them to scan the plastics...

3 months later
#462 7 years ago

As with most GLs, my upper playfield was also pretty bad. The guy who sold me the machine included one of those decals, but it personally bothered me that it was so different from the original art (to each his own of course). This is my first machine, and definitely the first time I've tried to do any touch up work. I did a ton of research on the best paints and methods to use. But obviously this artwork is super complex and I quickly got in over my head. There are so many tiny sketch lines and there were missing numbers.

It took a couple weeks of just doing a little bit at a time. I used some decent photos from the IPDB as reference. The most difficult part is getting the worn down areas to be level and flat. Doing it again, I definitely would have put down more base coats in the beginning to even it out. I thought I had done enough, but ended up having to do a bunch of leveling with clear coat afterwards.

I'm happy with how it came out, but my biggest regret was adding Marco Specialties mylar afterwards (not shown in pictures). The bottom playfield already had that stock GL specific mylar on it, which I am fine with. But the Marco Specialties mylar by the foot that I bought just isn't the same. It is thinner and much shinier and just seems to highlight imperfections and tiny bubbles. Oh well, lessons learned!

Before_(resized).jpgBefore_(resized).jpg

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#465 7 years ago

Thanks! Now I just need to figure out how to restore my lizard head (since I don't think I'll be finding one for sale anytime soon). Anyone have any luck with this? What did you use? I saw that TNT Amusements YouTube video where they did an awesome job repairing one using Bondo. But of course they don't really explain how to do it.

#467 7 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

The decal is mine and no offence taken. I'm pretty honest about the fact it's far from a perfect match. But yours looks really really good. Nice job.

Thanks! Definitely no offense meant. I think it's great that everyone is working together to make solutions like this available to others.

#469 7 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

UFiti.. Did you create a decal. Or restore the playfield by painting. Just want to clarify.

Painted it using Createx paint.

#470 7 years ago
Quoted from ufiti:

Painted it using Createx paint.

Here is the template I created to use as a reference when painting the linework. Just in case it is useful to anyone.

GL-Overlay-MOD-01_(resized).jpgGL-Overlay-MOD-01_(resized).jpg

2 months later
#528 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinfatuated:

I commissioned Paul Faris to create art for a plastics set that matches the art of the playfield and proto / pre-production backglass both of which Faris created the art for. I have not had time to get it scanned or look at getting plastics printed, nor am I sure when I will get the time. How much interest is there in alternate plastics? I would think that a limited run would be around $200 each +/- $50, but who knows.

Very interested! Though I had really been hoping someone would be able to get ahold of the original prototype plastic artwork that he already did.

#532 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinfatuated:

He would have liked to refresh his memory as to what he did before instead of starting from scratch.

I'm assuming you already showed him the pics of the proto plastics that have been floating around (mostly from that ebay auction)? I think they gave a decent enough idea of what most pieces looked like.

#536 7 years ago

Yeah, I can't say I disagree with either of the previous statements. I really like the rocks on the proto plastics, but the blue might have been better if it was more muted like it is on playfield. And the plastics near the top just look like a large mass of green scales. So I am very excited to see what he was able come up with this time around!

I wish there were plastic protectors for this machine... there aren't are there? I'd hate to put in this new small run set and then break em!

#538 7 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

I think it is supposed to be the big lizard coming in from the left of the playfield = its body?

Yeah, for sure. From the pics we have it just doesn't seem like the body has much definition. Who knows, maybe it looks different in person when it is lit up.

#545 7 years ago

Wow, that looks really great!

But, yeah it really is a shame about the pieces that will be covered up by the head. Also, the artwork seems to have a lot of color blending, much more like the proto backglass than the black outlines of the playfield. I'm a little worried how that will print onto the plastics. Usually plastics seem to be printed with solid areas of color. But you'll have to discuss that with whoever does the printing.

Very exciting!

#546 7 years ago

On that note, if anyone ever wants help on a project like this just let me know. I admittedly have never worked on pinball plastics before, but preparing files for press and working with printers is a major part of what I do for a living.

#549 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinfatuated:

Yes, the art was designed to be printed with a 4 color process instead of spot colors to allow for more detail and to match the backglass style more at the expense of not matching the playfield style as much. Some adjustments will need to be done to match the colors better and to make the saturation levels appropriate for the plastic set. I don't think the playfield I lent to Faris had the Lizard Head, so the art that will be covered is my fault - hard to think of everything on one's first project .
Many machines nowadays are printed with 4 color process and look pretty good if more than a few inches from the eye. I have a lead on a printer in Spain that is supposed to do amazing work, but I need to see samples and compare them to Stern, Spooky, and other current plastics - see who has what capabilities at what prices for a small run.

That would make sense! I guess I was just thinking about machines from this era. New games do seem to have a lot more photography rather than illustration, so they would have to be 4-color process. I'm sure they will look great then, but you are right, the color matching will be the trickiest part... especially the blues. In 4CP it is very easy for a blue to turn out purple on press. Unfortunately if the printer is not local you won't be able to be present for a press check. Just have to make sure to send them some sort of color sample to match as closely as possible.

Now that I'm looking at my machine, you will definitely be able to see that lizard arm on the right below the head. It's actually quite prominent from the playing angle. Wish there was somewhere else those skeletons could go, those will be completely covered up. I really like how the one has his arm chained up. Kind of ties into the broken chain at the ball lock.

#551 7 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Went to town today and got the translite, looks good although i need to go back tomorrow and buy a new glass to stick it on.

Who makes a translite? This is the first time I'm hearing of the existence of one.

#553 7 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Local printer here in town, made my own translite pic and emailed it.

Ohhhhh, gotcha! Thought I had missed something. Excited to see how it looks lit up once you have it behind glass!

3 months later
#609 7 years ago

Anyone else notice there is a playfield protector available for Grand Lizard now? Very tempting, but not sure I'm up for removing my mylar anytime soon. If anyone gets one of these I'd love to hear about it.

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/VU7Ii-7DVk67NeY-92Fnig?categoryid=22&category=Playfield%20Protectors&name=Grand%20Lizard%20%7C%201986

1 week later
#622 7 years ago
Quoted from Cyrus:

I wish they would do one for the upper play field. Mine has some wear and I'm now regularly waxing it with Carnauba wax. But mylar for upper play field only would have been sweet. Not sure why mine has mylar on the bottom play field but not the top where there tends to be a lot of wear in a very small PF area.

Yup, that's why so many of them have messed up upper playfields. The factory mylar was just like that, really stupid. You can by mylar in sheets and cut your own, which is what I ended up doing. But if I had known there would be a full playfield protector coming out so soon after I definitely wouldn't have.

1 month later
#633 7 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Oh, btw, there is a small issue with the new translite, or more the GI lighting in the backbox, two of the lamps that lights the sword the hero holds up in the face of the Lizard on the old Python backglass will now instead blink the nose of the Lizard on the Faris Backglass, looks abit odd with a blinking light there.
Is there any way to fix that so it just stays on?

Hey Luzur,
You ever figure anything out for this? I'm getting a proto backglass as well and am worried about the location of the lights.

4 months later
#681 6 years ago

Can anyone advise on which posts this game uses? I'm not seeing any numbers for these in the manual. I bought these from Marco but they are too large: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4425-2

1 month later
#708 6 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

If any of you have read any of my previous posts regarding my Grand Lizard, I've had random lock ups during game play. I can never reproduce the issue. After owning the machine for over a year now, I finally yanked the board out and sent it off to Ed Cheung to work on. He has the board for 2.5 weeks doing a stress test and not a single issue yet. So now I am at a loss. If the board wasn't the root cause of all the random lock ups, what could it possible be? Any thoughts or suggestions?

Mine was doing that, and installing one of these fixed it:
https://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/bridge_board.htm

1 month later
#733 6 years ago

Received my proto backglass from Bgresto earlier this year. It looks great! It took 4 months to receive mine, which is fine, as long as you know you'll have to have patience.

2 weeks later
#737 6 years ago

So apparently that Grand Lizard from Davenport with the original prototype plastics (and backglass) is for sale: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/52146

Really hope the next owner is willing to have the plastics scanned! PPS couldn't find the film for these, so it would be great to reproduce these plastics (or at least archive the artwork). I did ask the seller, and understandably they want to leave it up to the next owner.

2 months later
#786 6 years ago
Quoted from Jerickso77:

More sound issues. Suddenly the sound is so faint you can barely even hear it. Adjusting the volume knob does nothing. Any ideas?

Could also be an issue on your MPU board. I had a similar issue with very faint sounds and my board repair guy found a "bad preamp prior to mixer and a data line out on PIA".

1 year later
#919 5 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Is that the one that was in a resturant/bar somewhere that another member had a pic of some time ago?

Nope, not the one I posted. That one didn't have the different cabinet/playfield art. Just the backglass and plastics. Wow that's cool!

8 months later
#1020 4 years ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I think I can paint them and get them darn close to original...but if someone wants a plain one to paint themselves, I can arrange that also. I don't know what pricing will be yet, but it will be reasonable like the ramps I already sell.

You don't mean Grand Lizard ramps, do you?

9 months later
5 months later
#1278 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_girl:

Hello!
Just joined the Grand Lizard Club and am picking up my game tomorrow (woohoo!). I found info on another site that claimed that the lizard in this game is an end boss from a video game. I have searched for more info and history on the pin, but am not having any success finding the answer. Does anyone know if this is true? And, if so, what game is it from and do you have any other info about it?

Actually, the story is that the lizard is based off of the boss from Williams Inferno. Which, of course, Python also worked on. I can definitely see the resemblance.

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