Install lightning flippers on upper playfield? That would make the shot more difficult but probably would not stop it completely... unless... you put mini flippers up there. Now that would stop it but, it might also make releasing multiball nearly impossible.

Removing the lower center post between the flippers would reduce ball times as well.

If anyone is looking to trade or sell their GL, I am looking for one.

I don't think either is tremendously productive on mine. But having said that, it REALLY depends on how each GL game is set up. I've played a bunch on them and they are all different.

On mine, in a 3-ball multiball with a flashing spinner, I can get over 150K on a solid left flipper rip. The turnaround shot is WAY too hard to make consistently on my machine. (5.5 mil is GC). On some GL machines, you can roll the game using the turnaround shot... not on mine, set up evil, PAPA style.
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No, those are actually "toothpick holes". You place a toothpick in the hole and let the flipper rest against it, then tighten.

Now, whether you do it with the flipper rubber on or off should probably be decided on a game by game basis.

However, Data East alignment holes seem to follow your assumption. Those align with the center of the bat, unlike Bally and Williams.

Protectors and hardtops are very different than an original. Not saying they are better or worse, they ARE different. I don’t care for them myself but I say have at it if you like the way it makes the game play. Hardtop is more work than a playfield swap, some people incorrectly assume it’s easier.

That metal ball guide on the right side is bent inward very badly. It's a two way gate. The shot is collectible in either direction.

Can't tell from picture... but the gate may also be bent. Looks like you need to bend that ball guide out so it touches the rubber post next to it.
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All system 11 nothing games had the boards mounted like that.

Come play GL at Pincinnati this weekend.
You will not be disappointed!

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My advice is to leave it.

GL is the 80’s equivalent of BSD. The total game package… same legendary designer.

Right. But there’s absolutely no reason at all to take fuses with you. Power it up, explain it’s broke, assume it needs a new display and go from there.

I would never pay 1800 for that game…. You can’t assume anything with acid damage is ever even repairable (even if it might be). You should just assume it will cost you a new MPU and a new set of displays, even if it doesn’t need them. That way you will not be upside down on it. You could be looking at $600-$700 in parts to get it running. Subtract that from what you think it’s worth fully working ($2300 fully working is my estimate on its value) and make your offer. Anyone else suggesting otherwise is not doing this pinball buying thing correctly. Also, There is a ton of wear on that PF. This is just the way I always consider things as another opinion. I don’t do this for a living but I hardly EVER put any money towards a game that I know I can’t easily recoup. Would I pay 1500 for it? I probably would not even pay that for it but, I already have a GL. And I DO think it would sell at that price, it’s just not the right item for me.

He was only calculating that he MIGHT have to replace the PCB and factoring that into an offer, not that he absolutely will have to replace it.

I do not say this lightly. Grand lizard for 80’s pinball is JUST as good as BSD for 90’s pinball. I ignored the game for many years because other games always seemed to have better themes but this game is just about perfect in every way. I actually like it better than Space Shuttle for a classic and Shuttle is among THE most respected 80’s titles. Yeah, Oursler was a genius and pinball master with the simplicity of his designs. I am so happy I was able to hang out with him and chat about pinball. I will never forget it.

Those rubber ones fall off too way too often on tournamnet/league games round these parts.

You mean like this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/grand-lizard-club-mandrills-get-in-free/page/29#post-7261764