(Topic ID: 54886)

Grand Lizard club. *Mandrills get in free.*

By SPeD66

10 years ago


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  • 1,639 posts
  • 171 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 69 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #99 Fine Tuning Tips Posted by mof (10 years ago)

Post #100 More Fine Tuning Posted by mof (10 years ago)

Post #194 Playing Tips Video Posted by L8vid (9 years ago)

Post #196 BGResto Proto Backglass. Posted by RustyLizard (9 years ago)

Post #510 Possible Buzz Fix Posted by FLASHBALL (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#917 5 years ago
Quoted from jho159:

Not that I am aware of. To the best of my knowledge, this game was never on location.

If you could get the plastics scanned, we'd all love you forever . I bet you could have them all scanned at once at a place like kinkos or any other large print shop. Something like 300 or 600 dpi would be great. Maybe when you go to shop it out since the plastics would be off anyway. Great find and great game.

Thanks,
RC

4 months later
#977 4 years ago

Mine is finally in the basement where I can start to shop it.

#979 4 years ago

Any update on the proto plastics? Since mine will be undergoing a full tear down soon, figured I'd check.

#981 4 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

Going to be a long wait. Life has me busy and I haven't made initial contacts yet.

Gotcha. I'd say Planetary Pinball would be your best bet. They ended up reproducing the proto backglass, I believe.

#988 4 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

I don't believe they make plastics but I would need to license through them.

Oh, yeah. Perhaps CPR in Canada would be willing to take on the project.

#989 4 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

I really need to replace the Lizard head on my machine...if anyone has a lead on one, please PM me!

I've not seen repros yet. Perhaps you could repair yours with epoxy or resin?

#991 4 years ago

Got the top side torn down mostly tonight. Very happy my upper playfield barely has any wear. I'll be going with lightning flippers and no rubber on the center post to make it really mean.

IMG_20190629_180646814 (resized).jpgIMG_20190629_180646814 (resized).jpgIMG_20190629_180651239 (resized).jpgIMG_20190629_180651239 (resized).jpg
#992 4 years ago

For anyone who has successfully put LED flashers in GL, could you advise which specific resistors need to be removed, pretty please? Don't wanna screw anything up.

#993 4 years ago

Got all my inserts swapped for LEDs. No flicker/ghosting. WOOHOO! Waiting on my Comet order to do the GI and backbox and my Marco order to mylar the upper PF and install the new lightning flipper bats. I'm thinking this one didn't get a ton of play with how nice the upper PF is. All the metal was tumbled for 2 days and came out gorgeous. Star posts were soaked in degreaser and look awesome. Can hardly wait to play.

1 month later
#1007 4 years ago

Sorry the pic is from Snapchat. It's the only one I have of the game lit up after the HV repair and new back glass art installed.

Snapchat-1719848557 (resized).jpgSnapchat-1719848557 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#1009 4 years ago

Can any other owners check something for me? When I hold my right flipper in game for the status report (as indicated on the apron), nothing ever happens. I've held it for 90 seconds and no status report. I've played the game a bit, scored, locked balls, then hold it to see status and it never happens. Verified the switch works in test mode, so not an issue there. Could this game just not support it? I'm on L4 software. Is there a setting maybe?

Thanks,
RC

#1011 4 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Just tested during a game, 1 ball locked, ball in shooter lane. Held right flipper button in for 4 seconds and it shows the score needed to win a free game and nothing else. Tested in attract mode, nothing.

Thanks. At least that is something. I get nothing. Hmm.

#1012 4 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Thanks. At least that is something. I get nothing. Hmm.

Later that night I tried again and got what you saw. Showed me the replay score. Seems to pop up and go away quickly. Guess I missed it before. All is well on my game. Phew.

1 month later
#1017 4 years ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Good news....I have located a local pinsider who is graciously allowing me to borrow his Lizard to make a mold from. I'll keep you guys posted on how I make out. I know there are a lot of people looking for this part!

Excellent news. This is one hard to find part.

#1026 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

i am pretty sure it is.. Would there be a way to make them separately but have an interlocking mech?

Mine has a teeny hole burned through it from either the flasher or GI bulb underneath. I patched it easy and with LEDs there shouldn't be an issue going forward. They seem softer than later era ramps. I haven't seen a cracked one. Hopefully these can be done for those in need. A different color option might make me want to upgrade.

2 weeks later
#1031 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

hi all...
i have a simple ask about the code
after wayching videos, seems LOCKS are always lit/available on the table, i mean when you have finished your mutiball and are back to 1 ball, you dont have to relight LOCKS...
than, is there a setup in the code where you have to shoot something to first relight the LOCKS (and than makes the game a bit harder & hazardous) ?
tanx
(PS : i have the same ask about SPACE SHUTTLE)

No there isn't a way to change this. I reached out to Soren regarding this specific feature request along with a couple other ideas I had. Like ways to make the player need to work both upper and lower playfield sections to put together big points. He is not interested in working on the game code because it isn't one he cares for.

#1034 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

not everyone has played one and knows the awesome that is grand lizard.

He thinks it is an upper PF one trick pony. I can see that as it is currently coded, but I was trying to suggest things to make it more rewarding to play both sections. Maybe combos or after hitting both ramps, you are in double scoring for a few seconds or something. Maybe add a jackpot to multiball that has to be qualified by doing things on upper and lower to be collected. Things like that.

#1041 4 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

We are discussing top side options as well. First impression was to make the MB a little more difficult so that locks aren’t always lit.

That's crazy. When Soren turned me down, I enlisted someone else and we are looking into it as well. More versions the merrier. Wasn't planning on saying anything til it was ready. I want to make it meaner. For locks, my idea was to hit the MB release target up top to light them down below. And have magna saves start at 0 and you have to earn each one and of course make that adjustable.

#1043 4 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

I also thought about using the release target to light locks. Spelling LIZARD though is far more dangerous.

Agreed. It might make people avoid MB. Spelling LIZARD is used for earning magna saves also. Were you gonna keep that or make those earned a different way. My thought process was make you do something on the upper to earn something on the lower and vice versa. I want to make the game tournament friendly also and try to eliminate lock stealing. In stock code the game plays too long in a tourney setting.

#1047 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinmeister:

Just joined the club and ordered the repro prototype backglass.

Nice, congrats.

#1049 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Is there a jackpot in grand lizard like the other system 11s?

No. 2 ball MB is double scoring and 3 ball is triple.

#1059 4 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

The market will ultimately dictate what you pay, or else you end up not owning one. GL’s don’t come up for sale often, whereas WW and Pinbot are sold frequently. And when GL’s do come up for sale, 90% of them have a blown out upper PF.
Also, I bought my first GL in 2016, Pinside average was $1200 at that time. In 3 short years the price and demand has risen to $1700 and it will continue to go up.

I recall passing on the first one that I came across due the almost totally gone upper PF art. Never understood why Williams did factory mylar on the main PF, but not the upper area. When I found the one in my collection I jumped on it due to the nearly perfect upper PF even though the backglass was trashed. Had planned on getting the proto version anyway, so no big deal.

#1061 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Have you since mylared it?
Is proto backglass available? or repro'd?

Yes and yes.

BGResto.com sells the glass.

4 weeks later
#1071 4 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

Going to be a long wait. Life has me busy and I haven't made initial contacts yet.

Semi annual proto plastic update check. Happy Friday the 13th all.

1 month later
#1084 4 years ago
Quoted from Cyrus:

I had that happen when I went to LED. I thought about it and...went back to the incandescents. No pain; no pain. And I actually like having a few of those bulbs in the game.

Same here with my GL and other sys11 games. Kept the 89 flashers incandescent. Plenty bright and way more cost effective.

#1086 4 years ago
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:

Thanks guys. I deactivated the warming circuit, and problem is gone.
One more thing. Whats the odds of me taking the clear mylar off the upper area of the PF without lifting paint?

Odds are pretty bad. Upper PF area was not factory mylared, so if you have it up there it was done afterward. How bad is it? If it's just cloudy, you can polish it up nicely with a buffing kit and novus or meguiar's compounds.

2 months later
#1107 4 years ago

Can anyone that has purchased the BGResto glass advise if it is the same thickness as the original? Hoping to avoid buying new trim pieces and lift channel.

3 weeks later
#1129 3 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

Just got the MPU from my pre-production game up and working in my production game. The sound ROMs are so cool. Heavy drum beats in the background with Firepower noises mixed in for bonus and such.

Got a video? That would be cool to see/hear.

cough - any progress on proto plastics? - cough

#1131 3 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

I will make a short video. Later on when the whole prototype game is working there will be a video done with my friends at Pinball Mayhem.
The plastics come after that. I would expect 6 months before I even ask for permission.

Thanks for the reply. I can wait patiently. It's a favorite in the gameroom. I ordered the BGResto proto glass finally. I had a translight in it for the last year and wanted the real deal now.

#1134 3 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Can someone post some photos of their knocker assembly? Mine was completely missing and I have a new assembly now waiting to be installed. Thanks!

I can in a few hours when I get home.

#1135 3 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

I didn't do the work but that glass was made from a prototype glass that I bought years ago.

Oh, yeah, I recall you lent that out to Clay and Steve.

#1140 3 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

I can in a few hours when I get home.

Here's the knocker. Sorry for the delay.

IMG_20200514_212104032 (resized).jpgIMG_20200514_212104032 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#1153 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Looking for a better example. Upper pf wear...

As upper pf wear goes, that one is not bad at all. I've seen many examples with no art up there at all.

#1155 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I hear ya.
Just a bit picky about it. And it's about a 7 hour drive..

Totally understand. We want what we want. It's your time and money, so I get not wanting to settle for a game that won't meet your expectations. Really hope you find one. I know you have been on the lookout for a while.

2 weeks later
#1176 3 years ago

Might want to check out Larry's Xpin discount thread for your displays.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xpin

1 week later
#1186 3 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Cheaper is better, of course, but I am just looking to find one. Bgresto had them marked as "out of stock" when I looked.

I just got my tracking number from BGResto for my proto glass. Took 3 months and change. I can sell my proto backglass translight if you are looking for a cheap alternative. You'll have to source a glass or plexi. I went this route until I could afford to drop the money on the BGResto. When I got my game the backglass was missing half the art.

#1189 3 years ago

BGResto glass arrived yesterday. Beautiful. Since my game is down due to a melted flipper coil, I'm waiting to install it. While I'm in the backbox, I'm fusing the 2 bridges that weren't fused at the factory, as well.

2 weeks later
#1197 3 years ago

Would anyone mind snapping a clear pic of your upper left flipper coil wiring for me? I'm about to replace this thing for the second time and I don't wanna kill another coil. Thanks much.

RC

#1200 3 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Here is a couple from my shop out folder.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I really appreciate that. Might you have one where the diode is visible to make sure I put the band on the correct side? I'm 99% sure, but I just wanna be 100% before I finalize and power up.

#1202 3 years ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

Does anyone know if and where you can purchase a new backglass

BGResto.com

#1205 3 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

I don't have a pic handy that shows the diode. Found this on e-bay. The band on the diode was oriented the same way on other pics as well.
[quoted image]

That's actually the auction I got the 2nd coil from. All back together and working fine now.

Thanks.

#1206 3 years ago

If anyone is interested in a prototype artwork translight, I'll be selling one. Looking to get 70 shipped. If you have a crappy bg or want a proto glass on the cheap, this is for you.

IMG_20190801_205032148 (resized).jpgIMG_20190801_205032148 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1213 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinmeister:

I wish someone would reproduce the proto slingshot plastics. And maybe the outline plastics as well.

Rusty plans on it, but he's a busy guy. He plans to have the whole set repro'd. Looking forward to it.

5 months later
#1259 3 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

Nothing has happened yet with the plastics. I have the standard and Proto both fully working and next to each other. Next step is to make a dideo documenting the differences with my friend Jeremy at Pinball Mayhem.
Under the current circumstances I have just been laying low waiting for the world to open up again.

Now is the perfect time to get these babies going. I've found that I've actually gotten a lot done with my collection, that I had put off, during this craziness.

Looking forward to the vid. I like to watch the Pinball Mayhem youtube stuff here and there. He's got some nice games.

#1265 3 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

Perfect time for who? Living life as normal with the exception of forced overtime to cover for the ill and poor staffing.
The video will happen soon as I have a deal in place to sell the production game.

I hear you sir. I know a lot of folks dealing with the same staffing issues. We just gotta poke you every now and then on them proto plastics. We're waiting with cash for you (and PPS cut lol).

#1266 3 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Stay tuned. I might have someone working on some code modifications. First up, you must spell LIZARD to light the locks.

Did anything come of this? The guy I had looking into it is so busy, he hasn't had any time.

3 weeks later
#1284 3 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Left sling is locking on. Didn’t start troubleshooting yet. What are some things to look for that cause a coil to lock on?

Switch stuck closed, shorted diode on the coil, shorted transistor on the mpu. It will be in the special solenoid section because GL slings are not cpu controlled.

6 months later
#1311 2 years ago

RustyLizard Just saw your video on the production vs proto games. Nicely done.

#1314 2 years ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

Thank you. Jeremy did an outstanding job editing to help me look ok.

Definitely informative. I'd say I like the production sounds better. Any further thoughts on getting the proto plastics into reproduction?

6 months later
#1373 2 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Thanks don’t think I’ve ever gotten extra ball.. (did get my hi score tonight). Must have gotten special at some point and that did it. Will pull the glass and test

Still surprised this game doesn’t get higher ratings. It’s always a fun time.

With stock configurations, the game plays too long and is very samey since the major points come from keeping it up top. This is why the upper playfield is seriously worn on alot of them. I envisioned a broader ruleset and had a programmer friend interested, but he is always so busy with his day job. Not knocking it, since I did own one for years, but these things are why I believe it isn't rated higher. Fun layout with great art (the Faris art, anyway), but just not enough there, rules wise.

4 months later
#1404 1 year ago
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:

Hey guys, I am getting ready repaint my cabinet, and I have a simple question. Is the original artwork done in green/orange, or green/yellow? My old cabinet definitely looked green/orange before I sanded it down, and it looks this way in on-line pics to. BUT, the stencils from Pinball Pimp are saying it should be green/yellow. Now confused.
Am I missing something here? Might the original yellow have turned orange do to the red fading out? Or is it truly orange? Just want to make sure the right colors are going on.
Thanks
Bill

I would call it a golden yellow.

7 months later
#1491 1 year ago

Toppers don't need to reiterate the name of the game, guys. It's right there, below it.

1 week later
#1497 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Hey GL owners and fans!
I'm going to go look at a Grand Lizard for sale and none of the displays are lit up. I will try and figure out what I can when I get there, but wondered if you could give me some suggestions on where to start looking?
Are all the displays coming from a common power supply? All fused together?
EDIT: I see in the manual that F1 on the power supply board is for the displays. Shows it as being a 0.25 Amp Slow Blow. I can't tell from the photos I was given if this fuse is good or not, but I will take some spares with me and try a new one in F1.

I don't know if fixing the game while inspecting it is best for your chances of getting a deal.

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