San Francisco, CA
I love my GL...
I am looking for a backglass...
I can't wait for my new flipper brackets to arrive so I can do the flipper upgrade...
-mof
(Topic ID: 54886)
Linked Games
Grand Lizard
Williams, 1986
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Quoted from SKILL_SHOT:Im in! I added a few lights to the backglass.
Impressive. How did you get the face to light up underneath the flippers? Did you add sockets?
-mof
Quoted from SKILL_SHOT:No I just make my own flex LED by removing a superbright from the housing add my needed length of wire to nearest GI and secure it. If you wanted to do a more permanent mod you might use one of those spotlight posts with just a bulb no cone. Mines just a LED with longer wires zip tied under the table then 3m clear taped on the table under the apron and up to hang over the ball collector guide. I went up high because I thought that would have less chance of impact and lighting. Glad you like it
Yeah, I've always thought that the artwork under the flippers was a little wasted since it's never lit up at night. I would surely like to learn how to set that up. I am not using LED's in mine, since I love the orange glow on the black -- I don't want to LED this one up at all. But I'd sure like to have an extra bulb in that spot. Can someone make or link to instructions for that? I think that would be a fantastic mod for this game. Or we can borrow instructions in another thread...
-mof
Quoted from SKILL_SHOT:Its a reskinned BLACK KNIGHT almost just things moved around. With an incandescent bulb you dont have the room and if the bulb gets hit POP! you also wont get as much light from it.That is a super bright warm white so if you went with something less bright you could get away with 1 LED.
I have BK and GL, and I must say that while GL clearly borrowed ideas from BK -- they play VERY differently... Nothing wrong with having both in a collection at all.
-mof
Quoted from SKILL_SHOT:Its a reskinned BLACK KNIGHT almost just things moved around. With an incandescent bulb you dont have the room and if the bulb gets hit POP! you also wont get as much light from it.That is a super bright warm white so if you went with something less bright you could get away with 1 LED.
I see your point, I might have to budge and go with a couple LED's in my GL if I want your effects. Is there a way you can show with pictures what you've created?
-mof
Quoted from SPeD66:Hoping not to go too far off topic but, anyone who loves GL should give Big Guns a try. The upper pf on BG is a sh*tload of fun & challenges. In fact, it's because of this that I sought out a GL. Hoping to score a nice F14 at some point as well.
I had a lot of fun with Big Guns at the pin expo. If I can ever hold more than 8 pins, Big Guns will be on my short list for other system11's to try out
-mof
1 month later
Quoted from Spybryon:Nice. I gotta get my Big Guns playable.
Ya you do...
-mof
1 week later
Can you kindly please check your Grand Lizard, and let me know if your playfield glass top channel is plastic or metal?
I need to buy a replacement for mine (doesn't have one) -- and I'd like to keep it original...
thanks!
-mof
Quoted from Pauz21:And the finished product with the GL fully operational and back together.
I didn't cover the decal with Mylar... which I'm not sure is the right decision but the sign shop applied a laminate they said is pretty durable and intended for use with signs out in the elements so I thought I'd try that. All that's left to do is a clean and waxing and let's play some pin.
Thanks again to Neo for helping me get this project started.
That looks really nice, would like to see a few more pics of that. There must be quite a few of us that would be stoked to have something like that.
thanks!
-mof
3 weeks later
Other than the chip sets... what about Grand Lizard makes it behave like a system 11. I mean -- does it even have two sound chips?
-mof
1 week later
Fine tuning tips:
Right Ramp
I'm having trouble getting it to pour the ball into the right flipper. Keeps hitting the top of the right sling. Seems like there's no room in the screw to move it much. Perhaps a slight flex with vice grips on the ramp end itself will help? I did it, and it did help a tad. With velocity it now clears it. Without, it still doesn't.
Middle "MISSING POST" -- design flaw in the game -- no middle post for the ball to smash into, so the right edge of the lower stationary target gets blow out, and the metal post that holds up the back of the target takes the beating as well. I am going to wrap it in electrical tape, if I cannot get a post rubber or something else around it. I don't like that hard velocity metal on metal. It will just require me to buy a new ball every other game. Remember a pitted ball is BAD. And the upper playfield needs NEW BALLS in this game. Keep 'em new.
IDEAS ???
2013-GL-middle-missing-post1.jpg 2013-GL-middle-missing-post2.jpg
Made so many tweaks today I can't think straight, and now my GL plays amazingly well.
1. put a yellow post protector behind on the 3rd target (D) to remove metal-on-metal action.
2. Bent out the right ramp a few mm such that now the ball feeds into the right flipper.
3. Put a piece of flipper rubber behind the left ball lock ramp to force a more flat curve, and now all the balls feed out into the left flipper and not SDTM (finally!)
4. Leveled the middle spinner by adding a few washers under the left side. Had no idea it was off by 20' at least. Now the spinner rips into infinity.
5. Added LEDs to ONLY the 2 bulbs behind the sword, and the two bulbs for the lizard eyes. Now they glow a nice florescent yellow against the dark/orange look of the game, now you REALLY feel like you are being stared at by a beast.
6. Removed a hacked bulb under a sling that was fading in and out, since the idiot wired it from solder into the screw into the bulb socket. Just unreal.
7. Put two light dams in front of the lizard eye bulbs to prevent OVER BRIGHT LED being cast into the upper PF.
8. Put all 47's behind "grand lizard" in the backglass to reduce heat and drop the brightness a little to see the PF better.
9. Filed back the (D) target so that when the ball makes contact it hits the edge of the target in several places AND the yellow post rubber behind it, should increase life of ball/target. Also, now the target has a tiny distance to travel, which means it should hand off the energy of the ball to the yellow rubber behind it quicker.
Very satisfying work today. A great game when dialed in right. Just an ok game when not dialed in.
-mof
Wondering...
How does your (D) target look? Have you replaced it?
Have you modded the target in any way to protect against further damage to the target or ball?
-mof
1 month later
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:For the future, use 3/4 inch insulating foam from the hardware store for replacing the dry-rotted "sponge" behind drop targets. This insulation is used around doors/windows, etc. and has a peel-n-stick side - just cut to length and stick it on, the width fits perfectly.
-Nate
Right, but this is about stopping the BALL from hitting the back of the target. =)
-mof
1 month later
2 weeks later
Watched the papa video.
http://papa.org/2012/12/03/grand-lizard-gameplay/
4 takeaways
1. get lime green flipper rubbers. Definitely cool.
2. That game is in "cheat mode" where you can cradle lower, and still use upper flipper. Ha !
3. owner of this game never set the right loop metal to feed into the flippers, it needs adjustment !
4. I love Grand Lizard !
-mof
Quoted from Gov:He makes it look WAAAAAY easier than it actually is
Agreed.
Well, he's nailing the multiball lock shot off the hinge every time. When I miss that shot, the odds of a drain are a bit high !
-mof
Quoted from SPeD66:I was under the impression this is not a cheat, but the correct way to set up the flippers? I mean, why else have two switches at each flipper button? Besides, operating the flippers in this fashion isn't the easiest thing to do in the first place.
Btw, my GL went down with some irritating symptoms. Wish me luck.
I have mine adjusted to operate in tandem, as I reckon that is how the game was designed.
-mof
Lizard eyeball lights.
Do yours stay on all the time, and flash brightly during a ramp shot? Or are they off most of the time?
I put LEDs in just the head, and perhaps I put in the wrong type, and they stay lit all the time. It might be more cool this way.
-mof
Quoted from Pauz21:Mine just flashed when the ramp was shot or the bank for 4 drops were nailed.
Thanks, that's what I thought was standard behavior...
Does anyone know what the bulb difference is to control this behavior?
-mof
Quoted from SKILL_SHOT:isnt it a resistor that needs to be removed? I like the eyes lit all the time, mine get brighter during the flash but if they are always lit it causes glare on the upper PF so I made a glare guard. Its because theyre LED and will light up with little voltage "ghosting" but because its a flasher they have a pre-flash current this makes them flash quickly.
That's right -- I forgot I put some rolled up paper towel in electrical tape in front of each flasher, so it wouldn't get direct line of sight to reflect...
Your idea is much better and more complete. I'll give it a shot soon. Great idea! I was just thinking -- perhaps ideally the cardboard would be white on the inside to reflect more light back up and out the eyes. (not that LEDs need help)
-mof
Quoted from Jormungardian:Yeah if you press it half way it should only trigger the lower flipper and full should do both, pretty standard. He does make it look super easy cuz at least for me is really hard to release the button just enough to release the upper ones without triggering the lower.
I had no idea this kind of action in pinball is "standard"... Is it?
I'll post a thread and ask the forum experts.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-how-should-flipper-buttons-be-adjusted
-mof
4 months later
Ramp set up on ebay...
ebay.com link: ws
-mof
3 weeks later
Quoted from Applezz:Just brought my Grand Lizard home today. This is my first machine and it looks quite fun.
Wait until you dial it in. Great flow.
-mof
1 month later
Quoted from mattosborn:I've never seen one broken from gameplay.
The mounting tabs break off of the back side.
-mof
1 week later
Quoted from jasonbar:Dear Grand Lizard-
It's not you, it's me. I'm just not feeling the butterflies anymore. I need to move on. I know you'll understand.
Yesterday, I took you to somebody who will appreciate you more & who can give you the love & affection that I can't.
I'll always remember you fondly. We were good together, but I've moved on.
Goodbye.
*sniff*
PS--Thanks for behaving & for not totally having a fit & breaking down when I set you up with your new owner--always a tense moment turning on an old game after a move!
nice post, haha!
now, get that new owner in here, hehe
-mof
Well, lookie here!
Someone just popped his head into the top-100. Nice view eh?
https://pinside.com/pinball/top-100
-mof
1 month later
Quoted from Applezz:I just want to thank Pauz21. I finally had time to get his upper playfield overlay installed. It's not perfect, but a 1000% improvement. The original condition is up a few posts, here it is with the decal (the glare to the right of the guy's head is from the ceiling light):
Post edited by Applezz: clarify glare issue
Pretty stoked that you are happy with it.
So many good people in pinball.
-mof
3 months later
Has anyone done some fine-tuned tweaking of settings to increase the difficulty of the game? I'd like to increase the difficulty, so that 1-2 mil is a real accomplishment.
Here are some things I'm considering:
1. remove the easy-backhand on the cave horseshoe -- tweak the upper flipper to have less range of motion.
2. install -- hard settings
3. get pitch to 6.5' -- right now I'm at 5' and the live catch is too easy from the spinner.
4. remove the center post? (Is that crazy?)
5. 2 max extra balls
6. Just 1 earned extra ball at 1,000,000.
Has anyone set up a really tough GL ?
-mof
5 months later
Holding smokes!
Look at that set of plastics to go with the prototype BG.
WANT !!!
Light blue against the dark orange looks amazing...
-mof
ebay.com link: GRAND LIZARD Pinball Machine Williams NICE
blue GL plastics - wtf!.png
11 months later
I never considered that approach before - I think my loudest machine is High Speed (same year as Grand Lizard) -- maybe it's time to do a power board upgrade and see if that kills the buzz.
-mof
Quoted from Cyrus:Hi Grand Lizard Owners. I have the opportunity to add a GL to my collection. Recently shopped out and looks good. Play field shows minor wear and innards are void of any burn marks or battery damage. It's very clean. Asking price is $1900. I have new Sterns and old EM's, but no SS pins from the System 11 era. For you folks that own one, what is a reasonable price for a working and otherwise clean GL? I've seen crazy variations in price as I've tried to research this. a few years ago a good one could be had for $1k. Has that changed?
I really like both the play and the somewhat creepy theme (would look great next to my TWD).
Thanks!
Cyrus
$1000 +/- for some bizarre reason these things are way underpriced. Enjoy it while it lasts.
mof
7 months later
Quoted from Luzur:finally
SWEET !!!
1 month later
2 months later
Quoted from Silverballer:Someones getting a cool backglass.
MAYBE!
Quoted from kevmad:The 4 month wait is going to kill me.
Meh, in pinball time, it's rather short!
-mof
6 months later
Quoted from Luzur:WE ARE NOT DEAD YET
Some of us look forward to paying extra $$$ for someone else to deal with getting the plastics made...
-mof
1 month later
Quoted from djreddog:spinner porn
Count it. (with a hand rip) After I tune up a well-designed spinner I tend to max out around 80.
-mof
1 month later
All my Williams spinners go 60-80 spins when tuned up.
1. Check the action. Make sure there is no drag physically. Not enough or too many plastic washers can influence drag laterally. Angle the wire is bent on the end under the PF can impact vertical drag. Angle of bracket can add drag.
2. Clean the parts.
3. Vids idea. Take a toothpick. Drop a drop of silicon on it. Wipe it on a paper towel. Take that remaining 1/4 drop, and wipe that on your spinner where contact is made. The goal is to never get any excess silicon on your pf.
4. Test.
Mof
10 months later
Quoted from mcuzz:Is it fun?
Hahahahahaha
4 months later
3 months later
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:it isn't one he cares for
not everyone has played one and knows the awesome that is grand lizard.
5 months later
Quoted from mitchel:ball stuck underneath
Never had this happen. Pics and a movie could help
Quoted from mitchel:keep getting the ball stuck
makes me wonder if there's some way the tension on that gate could be more than normal. Doubting it.
8 months later
5 months later
Quoted from djreddog:shaker
wait -- that's a great idea. and someone built a shaker kit for various MPUs...
1 year later
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Also, Freeplay40 is planning to make new GL ramps
SAY IT'S SO !!!
that's exciting...
5 months later
<=== still dreaming about a repro prototype plastic set.
Luzur
Pinfatuated
Quoted from Luzur:real life
I liked your hand-drawn set because I think it incorporated the playfield blue-grey the best. I liked all the sets for different reasons.
-mof
Quoted from Luzur:try to find some cheap firm in the states/or in europe and ship
I don't know but, I suppose 20-40 people have figured out how to print their own plastics, maybe a few more of them have learned how to do a few short runs in the US. I would open a new thread and ask away =)
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