That’s cool. I wonder if other games allow for this?

Check your game ROMs for checksums - this looks like a software issue.

Hey guys, I am getting ready repaint my cabinet, and I have a simple question. Is the original artwork done in green/orange, or green/yellow? My old cabinet definitely looked green/orange before I sanded it down, and it looks this way in on-line pics to. BUT, the stencils from Pinball Pimp are saying it should be green/yellow. Now confused.

Am I missing something here? Might the original yellow have turned orange do to the red fading out? Or is it truly orange? Just want to make sure the right colors are going on.

Thanks
Bill

I would call it a golden yellow.

Factory runs varied as well.
Plus the paints have probably darkened with age. (When you sanded out the original paint, you probably noticed the color as much brighter as you got past the surface paint?)

Mine is definitely more orange than yellow; if I was repainting and didn’t get a custom color mixed I’d probably lean toward a “harvest gold” type color over most pre-mixed orange paints.

Well here is how it turned out. Based on research, it should be pretty close. Thanks for the assistance.

This is a top down full restoration that is currently listed in the marketplace if anyone is interested.

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What was your experience like doing the Stencils on this? Any tips to make it easier? I need to redo my cabinet at some point.

No problem.
- Strip all of the hardware. Removing the side rails is optional.
- Use Bondo or similar to fix any big dings and nicks. Sand with 80 grit and use a random orbital sander. I greatly prefer a pneumatic cause its easier to use that a bulkier electric one.
- Sand the entire cabinet to bare wood with 80 grit. Do not leave any original paint, or the stencil will pull that old paint off and you will have a mess.
- Final sand the cabinet with 220 grit to remove all of the swirl marks.
- If you don't want the wood grain to show through the paint, then prime the cabinet and sand smooth. If you want the egrain to show, do not prime.
- Paint the entire cabinet in the color you prefer. I prefer oil based paints because they are durable. I also greatly prefer to spray them with a small pneumatic HVLP gun like below. I guess you could use spray cans for the base coat, but you will not be able to avoid the striping in the finish.
- Once the base-coat is dry, apply your stencils according to their instructions.
- This is optional, but for the absolute best finish, I would use a tinted primer that matches the color of paint you are going to apply. Lay down a very fine coat of primer prior to the paint.. This will reduce the number of coats needed for the color you are spraying on. Ideally, you want to to apply as few coats as possible while getting the ideal coverage.
- Its okay to use spray cans for the color, but DO NOT USE fast drying spray paint. Slower is better here because you don't want the strings of paint that will occur if its drying to fast.
- Spray on the color for you first color, and apply as many coats as needed to get good coverage.
- Remove the stencil AS SOON AS YOU CAN, and HAVE A HELPER available to assist. The stencil will tear in certain areas and you will need three hands to avoid the stencil whipping back on the paint.
- After the first color is fully dry, apply the additional stencils as needed and repaint the process.
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Bringing one home now!

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Howdy all! Is there a way to adjust the volume on the game?

Inside cab sound pot turn it

Found it! Thanks.

Has anyone tried upgrading the speakers in theirs? Is it worth it? Thanks!

You could change them but I wouldn’t spend too much on them almost any car speaker with correct ohms would be better than stock.
Best improvement on this game is a good Quality leds In warm white for GI and back box.
Clean all drop target so they work properly
And the game will be a blast!!!

Dup post

The sound amplifier built into the game is not good enough to make better speakers worth it (in my opinion).
If you want better sound, hook up an external powered subwoofer to the cabinet speaker leads.
The extra bass is kinda cool.

Really enjoying this game! Any pointers on gameplay?

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Up top all day. Also, if you don’t know how, you need to learn how to stage flip, this will allow you to easily blow up the game in MB.

Build that Bonus X, start multi ball, and rip that spinner.

The main bank of drops up top isn’t really where it’s at so much as the turnaround shot.

GL is a GREAT Sys11 game!

Many thanks yall!

I don't think either is tremendously productive on mine. But having said that, it REALLY depends on how each GL game is set up. I've played a bunch on them and they are all different.

On mine, in a 3-ball multiball with a flashing spinner, I can get over 150K on a solid left flipper rip. The turnaround shot is WAY too hard to make consistently on my machine. (5.5 mil is GC). On some GL machines, you can roll the game using the turnaround shot... not on mine, set up evil, PAPA style.
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Flipper tips should be right over the holes?

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No, those are actually "toothpick holes". You place a toothpick in the hole and let the flipper rest against it, then tighten.

Now, whether you do it with the flipper rubber on or off should probably be decided on a game by game basis.

However, Data East alignment holes seem to follow your assumption. Those align with the center of the bat, unlike Bally and Williams.

Hey guys, sign me up.
Went to Pinfest in australia with six machines hoping to sell one. It didn't sell but i played my first ever game on Grand Lizard and fell in love. Despite being told no way the owner would sell, he gave me the don't want to sell price and i had to have it.

It will slide in tween Sorcerer and Lost World. I love my single level B/W's.

I'll get some more pics when i unload it, but here it is being played at the event.

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Players condition, but if i love it as much as i think i will, i'll get someone to fix that.

Scanned through most pages on the thread and see that outside edge has a hardtop, has anyone used one of these and have a report? My playfield is pretty good from a cursory inspection, although the top playfield is duller than the bottom. Tossing up tween a protector, hardtop or maybe resto.

I have Hardtops on three games, but not specifically my GL.
I think they play great, but I know some other folks swear that they don't feel right.

Thanks, i've seen people rubbish protectors too, but i can't tell the difference.

Protectors and hardtops are very different than an original. Not saying they are better or worse, they ARE different. I don’t care for them myself but I say have at it if you like the way it makes the game play. Hardtop is more work than a playfield swap, some people incorrectly assume it’s easier.

Cancel the question. I have it home now and it's gorgeous. Cab only.

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Luckily they exist for really roached playfields and for titles that there isn’t a replacement option for a new playfield.

Wow, you never see upper playfields that intact. Keep that baby waxed up and preserved!
Would actually be a *very* good restoration candidate. The west is so minimal, wouldn’t take a lot to get it looking mint and then clear coat it.

Very, very nice example.

It's mylared, looks like it was done new.

I’ve never seen one with factory mylar top and bottom! Nice!!

Hello fellow Grand Lizard men (and women),

I just joined the club this weekend and have a couple of questions:

Question 1: The right gate into the top PF area; Is that a 1-way gate? mine acts as a 1 way gate but seems like it should be 2-way. (otherwise it creates a ball trap.)
See photos. In the last photo it looks to me like both ball guides need to be closer to the corner post. Can anyone confirm?

Question2: Is there another art package for the plastics? Is BGresto the option for the Faris BG? I love Pythons's Art - just not on this game...

Thanks!,
Bob

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That metal ball guide on the right side is bent inward very badly. It's a two way gate. The shot is collectible in either direction.

Can't tell from picture... but the gate may also be bent. Looks like you need to bend that ball guide out so it touches the rubber post next to it.
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Yes 2way gate/switch

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I do not know of a set of plastics that match the original backglass, though I'm sure if there was a run of these printed they would sell.
Does anyone else have any different information?

There are like 3 fanmade sets around still to be printed, mine, pinfatuated, and... That third one.

Potentially getting into this club. I found a pf plastic set, but is there a repo for the lizard head?

There was a lizard on market here just the other day. May still be listed.

Quick silly question. Having a issue with the board in GL, and come to find out, the whole board is mounted upside down compared to all my other system 11 games. Was this standard for GL? Causing no trouble, just thought it was strange, LOL

All system 11 nothing games had the boards mounted like that.

So if I was interested in doing a scratch build of Grand Lizard, does anyone know if the layout exists as a cad, or high res image somewhere?

The playfield?
Maybe you could buy a Hardtop and reverse engineer a blank piece of plywood to install under it.

Might try pinball vault.

Helped a local guy repair a pretty beat up playfield as best we could. Still needs a little finish work and clear coat but it’s much improved.

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anyone have a rubber list for this game? i would rather buy local, but i need to know sizes and cant find that info anywhere.

Bottom of page 46 in the manual, available from IPDB.

Anyone make a clear back ramp for this? Wonder how it would look ?

Come play GL at Pincinnati this weekend.
You will not be disappointed!

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Freeplay says he wants to get to work on GL ramps this month. It’s my understanding he’s going to do them in green but knowing him he’ll probably do a clear option as well.

Is there art underneath them all the way?

Looks like bare wood on the right hand side.