And when you are in 3 ball MB, sweep the top set of drops for 600K!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Who’s selling ?!
I’m
Buying!
Good luck in your search. It’s a sleeper in terms of gameplay. Got mine as a second game with F14 as it was same cost to ship two. Had no idea how addictive it is. Unique layout, no pops, magna save and of course jungle drums!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Who’s selling ?!
I’m
Buying!
There’s one in PA for $2400. Also another one on here for $3500
Quoted from volkdrive:Got the metal back![quoted image]
I'm normally not a fan of powder coating original chrome metal parts, but that looks GOOD!
Quoted from djreddog:There’s one in PA for $2400. Also another one on here for $3500
I feel like those are very high price tags for a grand lizard. It's a fun pin, but very basic system 11 stuff and not voice. Just sound effects. No real jackpot either. Just hard to place this sorta price tag on them.
I just bought a really nice ww for 2700 for comparisons. And a restored pinbot for 2500.
Quoted from Blackbeard:I feel like those are very high price tags for a grand lizard. It's a fun pin, but very basic system 11 stuff and not voice. Just sound effects. No real jackpot either. Just hard to place this sorta price tag on them.
I just bought a really nice ww for 2700 for comparisons. And a restored pinbot for 2500.
The market will ultimately dictate what you pay, or else you end up not owning one. GL’s don’t come up for sale often, whereas WW and Pinbot are sold frequently. And when GL’s do come up for sale, 90% of them have a blown out upper PF.
Also, I bought my first GL in 2016, Pinside average was $1200 at that time. In 3 short years the price and demand has risen to $1700 and it will continue to go up.
Quoted from djreddog:The market will ultimately dictate what you pay, or else you end up not owning one. GL’s don’t come up for sale often, whereas WW and Pinbot are sold frequently. And when GL’s do come up for sale, 90% of them have a blown out upper PF.
Also, I bought my first GL in 2016, Pinside average was $1200 at that time. In 3 short years the price and demand has risen to $1700 and it will continue to go up.
I recall passing on the first one that I came across due the almost totally gone upper PF art. Never understood why Williams did factory mylar on the main PF, but not the upper area. When I found the one in my collection I jumped on it due to the nearly perfect upper PF even though the backglass was trashed. Had planned on getting the proto version anyway, so no big deal.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Never understood why Williams did factory mylar on the main PF,
Have you since mylared it?
Is proto backglass available? or repro'd?
Quoted from Blackbeard:Have you since mylared it?
Is proto backglass available? or repro'd?
Yes and yes.
BGResto.com sells the glass.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Have you since mylared it?
Is proto backglass available? or repro'd?
I have the BG proto glass on mine a couple posts up. It takes more for the light to get through but looks great. BGresto did mine.
Quoted from volkdrive:Got the metal back![quoted image]
Ah, i see others had the same idea as me
IMG_20170808_225846 (resized).jpgPicked up this Grand Lizard a couple weeks ago just south of Nashville for $1500 (he wouldn't budge on price but I really wanted it and they don't come up often in my area, so I pulled the trigger). It's fully working and the boards look great on it. Backglass has a few bad spots near the lizards eyes, the plastic lizard head is beat up pretty bad and the playfield needs a lot of work. Cabinet is in pretty good shape.
It'll be a while until I can get to it because I've got a lot of projects in front of it. I'm hoping in that time maybe a lizard head comes available by some miracle and this playfield was one of the ones mentioned in the Hardtops poll, so I'm hoping someday a hardtop will eventually get made. So now, we wait...
Anyone interested in a shaker for their GL?
There is a new universal shaker in town. Announcement below.
Pinshakers would like to welcome Pinball Life as our exclusive online retailer for our universal shaker motor kits. We are extremely excited to work with Pinball Life and are looking forward to serving the pinball community along side them.
Visit http://www.pinballlife.com and order your kit today! They have the Standard and Premium versions in stock, ready to arrive by Christmas!
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
It’s on my list. I have one of theirs in Pinbot already. It’s a very well made product and straight forward install
Quoted from Pinoffski:Just asking were you can get the prototype backglass from and how much is it?
Planetary pinball
Has it it’s about $300
Quoted from RustyLizard:Going to be a long wait. Life has me busy and I haven't made initial contacts yet.
Semi annual proto plastic update check. Happy Friday the 13th all.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Semi annual proto plastic update check. Happy Friday the 13th all.
I'm still here. Game still has a blanket over it.
Hey guys just picked up a GL, and have a question.
Did Williams originally place a clear mylar in the rear area of the playfield? Visually, there is some wear around the inserts in front of the center drop targets, but it appears the wear is covered by a clear mylar. Must have been added by an original owner, after the wear occurred. I would like to airbrush this damage, but I am not sure if this will be effective on top of this mylar.
Also any idea if I can repair this on top of the mylar? Just really want to know if the paint will stick. Or should I remove it - assuming I assume the risk to do it?
Thanks
Quoted from wrd1972:Hey guys just picked up a GL, and have a question.
Did Williams originally place a clear mylar in the rear area of the playfield? Visually, there is some wear around the inserts in front of the center drop targets, but it appears the wear is covered by a clear mylar. Must have been added by an original owner, after the wear occurred. I would like to airbrush this damage, but I am not sure if this will be effective on top of this mylar.
Also any idea if I can repair this on top of the mylar? Just really want to know if the paint will stick. Or should I remove it - assuming I assume the risk to do it?
Thanks
No, mine didnt have any, but luckily it wasnt scrubbed down either, so i clearcoated the entire playfield.
Quoted from RustyLizard:I'm still here. Game still has a blanket over it.
You are the guy who bought that proto-game? Me and Pinfatuated are doing plastics aswell (although i dunno what happens anymore there), but if you got the real protos you maybe should talk to Pinfatuated, could maybe do a 3 version plastic job.
Quoted from hassanchop:Have you guys seen these?
[quoted image]
Huh, more people who got siderails ideas, im making a set aswell.
Quoted from wrd1972:Did Williams originally place a clear mylar in the rear area of the playfield?
I checked mine out of interest but there is no mylar. I think I am lucky with wear compared to many, a small piece under the tongue and some under the inserts.
Very nice GL up for sale, meaning the PF isn’t blown out. At a steal of a price too!
Quoted from djreddog:Very nice GL up for sale, meaning the PF isn’t blown out. At a steal of a price too!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/90240
Unusual to see an UP on a GL in that good condition.
Quoted from wrd1972:Hey guys. I finally got my GL going, and I have a question about the flasher bulbs. Currently my flashers are lit all of the time, and they will fast flash when you hit the magna-saves. So are these flashers supposed to be lit all of the time? I am thinking not.
Thanks
Hello I am assuming you have fitted LED Flashers to the Machine if so if you want to continue to use them you will have to clip the metal leg on the Warming Resistor , it is under the playfield, just follow the wires under the playfield you only have to clip one end off or if you want to remove it all together
Quoted from Dicky:Hello I am assuming you have fitted LED Flashers to the Machine if so if you want to continue to use them you will have to clip the metal leg on the Warming Resistor , it is under the playfield, just follow the wires under the playfield you only have to clip one end off or if you want to remove it all together
I had that happen when I went to LED. I thought about it and...went back to the incandescents. No pain; no pain. And I actually like having a few of those bulbs in the game.
Quoted from Cyrus:I had that happen when I went to LED. I thought about it and...went back to the incandescents. No pain; no pain. And I actually like having a few of those bulbs in the game.
Same here with my GL and other sys11 games. Kept the 89 flashers incandescent. Plenty bright and way more cost effective.
Thanks guys. I deactivated the warming circuit, and problem is gone.
One more thing. Whats the odds of me taking the clear mylar off the upper area of the PF without lifting paint?
Quoted from wrd1972:Thanks guys. I deactivated the warming circuit, and problem is gone.
One more thing. Whats the odds of me taking the clear mylar off the upper area of the PF without lifting paint?
Odds are pretty bad. Upper PF area was not factory mylared, so if you have it up there it was done afterward. How bad is it? If it's just cloudy, you can polish it up nicely with a buffing kit and novus or meguiar's compounds.
FYI - I know people have blown out upper PF's, and there was a pinside user who created an overlay. I own one. Never used it. Is this guy still making them? If not, is there a need for me to make a scan of the one I have? Not here to step on anyones toes, but rather keep as many GL's alive as possible.
Hey guys. I will be selling the GL I have, and want to see what it might be worth. I would really like to trade it for a HS if possible.
Game is fully finctional with original boards and displays. It also has full LEDs, new rubbers, and the PF cleaned and waxed. The lizard head and ramp are in perfect condition with no damage at all. Plastics are damage free but have some very minor spots wher the paint has rubbed off from either walls or brackets below, but its not really noticable at all.
PF is very nice except for some wear areas under the top drop target bank. These are noticable but someone put a clear mylar over the entire PF so no more wear can ocurr. The rest of the PF is close to perfect with no wear.
Cabinet is very solid with the usual dings. The paint is fair, but not an eyesore at all. Backglass is perfect. Wiring is excellent with no hackery.
So what does this pin sound like it is worth?
Thanks
Quoted from wrd1972:Hey guys. I will be selling the GL I have, and want to see what it might be worth. I would really like to trade it for a HS if possible.
Game is fully finctional with original boards and displays. It also has full LEDs, new rubbers, and the PF cleaned and waxed. The lizard head and ramp are in perfect condition with no damage at all. Plastics are damage free but have some very minor spots wher the paint has rubbed off from either walls or brackets below, but its not really noticable at all.
PF is very nice except for some wear areas under the top drop target bank. These are noticable but someone put a clear mylar over the entire PF so no more wear can ocurr. The rest of the PF is close to perfect with no wear.
Cabinet is very solid with the usual dings. The paint is fair, but not an eyesore at all. Backglass is perfect. Wiring is excellent with no hackery.
So what does this pin sound like it is worth?
Thanks
Depends on how bad "some" wear and "usual" dings are.
Probably $1,500-$2,000.
Quoted from dozer1:One thing that I will be looking for is the small display (credit and ball in play?) as it is missing. Anybody have one after upgrading to LED? Please PM me with what you got and price. Thx!
No longer looking for this. I have decided to go LED myself. If someone needs my main display, PM me.
Quoted from wrd1972:Thanks guys. I deactivated the warming circuit, and problem is gone.
One more thing. Whats the odds of me taking the clear mylar off the upper area of the PF without lifting paint?
I would not even try. I tried to pull up a small piece of mylar somebody stuck down on the UP and the paint wanted to come right up with it. Instead of mylar I'm using this stuff now. No adhesive and sticks great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J6CO9I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00
I did try to lift it in the very back were it was already loose. And as you guys suspected, its lifting paint. But I can go back in and touch-up this very small area. Just wish someone had attached the mylar prior to the PF wear.
Quoted from Pinoffski:Just asking were you can get the prototype backglass from and how much is it?
I have the proto translite in file format if you want to print one out yourself.
Quoted from Luzur:I have the proto translite in file format if you want to print one out yourself.
How exactly do you print it. What type of printer?
Quoted from dozer1:Joined the club last night! Game still in the van, but soon to be shopping it out. One thing that I will be looking for is the small display (credit and ball in play?) as it is missing. Anybody have one after upgrading to LED? Please PM me with what you got and price. Thx![quoted image]
I just got one from ksarcade for 95 bucks. Looks yo be working nicely.
Quoted from wrd1972:How exactly do you print it. What type of printer?
I paid a pro printer shop to put it on translite plastic sheet, cost me like 60 bucks (converted from SEK), but i had to cut out the holes for the displays myself.
Just picked up a Grand Lizard on Saturday. I've fixed a few issues (including the missing bongos. Ribbon cable was backwards on one end.) and I'm down to one current problem. The D Lizard target is wrong. Not just color but bracket as well. When they put it in, it is off center and leans forward. It looks as if no one sells the two screw front facing vertical targets anymore (A-9268). What is the best way to make this work? Thanks.
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