Ops, sorry, but i totally forgot to do this, and then christmas and stuff happened...

Anyway, i suppose you fixed the problem by now, but here's some pics of upper flippers i kinda promised you, anyway.

IMG_20180108_195945 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180108_195933 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180108_195916 (resized).jpg

Thanks
I ended up fixing without pics.
Rebuilt all 4 flippers!!!

What's up with your EOS switch? why are they mounted separate? And not on the flipper mounting plate

I...i dunno? they work perfectly though so ive never thought about it.

If it works, I guess leave them be.

Probably because you really never cradle the ball with the upper flippers.
I would check and make sure when the flippers are extended it is at least triggering the EOS

Well i have cradled the ball on the upper field alot actually (during multiball i try to get two up there and hold one with my right flipper while circulating the other ball around the special droptargets, ive managed a good run like that like twice), doesnt seem to have any troubles though, so as i said, have never really thought about it until you mentioned it.

Hmm, weird, and the bracket is still there too, i have fixed up all the flippers so one would have thought that i would notice it when doing it, but....no. LOL

Well, ive heard from my printer guy that he went into the wall before christmas, and been on sick-leave ever since, so im pretty sure any printing plans he had for my sets are now torpedoed, but ive been in touch with Pinfatuated who might have something going on.

If not i will probably have to decide to just let the art go free here on Pinside so those of you who want it can atleast get a shot at it yourself instead of just waiting decades on me getting anywhere with this. *sigh*

Pinfatuated might have better lead that i thought earlier, so this have now been made into a "WE ARE NOT DEAD YET" call for both of us

Some of us look forward to paying extra $$$ for someone else to deal with getting the plastics made...
-mof

OK folks - Good-ish news / bad-ish news (sort of)...

Good-ish
I've finally been able to make some time and am hoping to get my Faris plastics and the Luzur plastics manufactured and distributed by summer - it would be very nice to have these in time for the Midwest Gaming Classic in that big new venue that I'm super excited about for this year's show - but that is probably pushing it. Luzur and I are working out the details as far as ordering, payment, fulfillment, etc. We may do fulfillment ourselves or may contract it out to an established pinball vendor. I think the Luzur set will be under $101 not including shipping and taxes and is not particularly quantity sensitive. The price of my set will be quite quantity sensitive. New preliminary data makes me think the Faris set would be at $165 @ 50 units, $200 @ 30, and $250 @ 20 units all before including shipping and taxes. I don't have final estimates from the printer yet, because I need to redo the cutfile, and re-digitize my art in a new layout for printing. I also need to help Luzur redo aspects of his art to make sure it is print ready. Once we have our art done, then I can submit it for the final printing and bulk shipping estimates and then finalize my price point. Plastics would be 0.08 PETG - the standard.

I intend to use the same cutline file for both the Faris and Luzur sets of plastics, and I would like to add some extra plastics if I have the space. This means that each Faris and Luzur plastics set could have extra slingshot plastics, keyfobs, clear protectors, and/or other high risk plastic. Large extra plastics are very unlikely. What would be most desirable/needed? What plastics are broken on your machines? Would you rather have backup pieces with artwork or clear protectors? I could do a clear protector that just doubles up a portion of a larger plastic if certain large plastics are high risk/high need. My inclination is to just do extra printed high risk pieces as that creates a small distributed supply of them that should keep the world's Grand Lizard's prettier for longer.

I will see if a sample set is possible from the printer prior to taking payment so people can see both sets (likely uncut) in real life photos.

** So please do what you can to drum up support and please do what you can to compile data on high risk plastics for Grand Lizard. I will be taking pre-orders and payment once I am 100% ready to cut the printer loose. I believe the money for the Luzur sets will be collected up front too.
** Please *PM* or *post & PM* me if you are pretty sure you are in for one of my Faris sets. Please include country, postal code, and if you want postal insurance so that I can estimate shipping and taxes. We will not be responsible for lost or damaged shipments - ask for insurance if you want recourse.
* free delivery could be arranged to Midwest Gaming Classic (Milwaukee, WI, April 13-15) if they are ready by then, or I could *probably* stop by Chicago Pinball Expo this fall even if I don't attend this fall.

Bad-ish (sort of)
Although I have been able to make time for pinball recently that could change at any moment. ...And I am trying to help two upstart pinball companies with promotional merchandising and certain aspects of artwork production and/or design. They both want to do reveals at either Texas Pin Fest or Midwest Gaming Classic so those projects take priority over this. However, they should allow for certain synergies that should help this project move quicker instead of slowing it down, and might allow for price breaks. Don't worry, I'm not aware of either of these upstarts being controversial, suspicious, despised, etc. - yet :-} - they have taken NO deposits so ... well, you know...

Historical info / links
Info about my efforts start Page 11 post 512 (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/grand-lizard-club-mandrills-get-in-free/page/11#post-3226665)
A mock-up picture is page 11 post 543 (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/grand-lizard-club-mandrills-get-in-free/page/11#post-3240109)
Luzur's mock up is page 10 post 488 (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/grand-lizard-club-mandrills-get-in-free/page/10#post-3194462)

LOL i have been PM:ing so much that i hit the limit before being done, so everybody who did not get a PM from me about the plastics, and you who want to be added on the list for a set of either mine or Pinfatuated's or maybe even both sets, let me know.

I just turned my game on and it's rings that I have a switch 44 error. Looking in the manual switch 44 seems to be the right sling that's functioning fine. Both contacts have great spacing and fire, any ideas?

My 1 and 3 player displays are starting to fade towards the "10" digits area. Does this mean the displays are dying and just need to be replaced or is there something to check to try and fix this? I've never messed with displays before so kinda at a loss. Thanks in advance!

I need to revive this post as I still experience the same issue. It's totally random. But the symptoms are the same as mentioned above. Music and lights still work but the displays go out and none of the coils/flippers/magnets work. Turn the game off and back on and the game plays fine for awhile. Where do you think the problem lies? In the PSU or the CPU? This is the first pin I bought, and the girlfriend said we are never getting rid of it. So at this point I'm thinking of just buying a new CPU and PSU and hopefully be done with it. Previously I replaced all caps on the PSU and though that resolved the issue but ultimately it didn't. Thoughts?

I had kinda the same problem with my old Williams displays in my GL, so in the end after soldering, resoldering and whatnot i bought new Xpins and got rid of the problem, still works perfectly 4 years later.

Hmm, sounds like chip problems maybe? have you tried taking them out and reseat them (carefully)? feels like your GL is experiencing lock-up error. Any acid leaks on boards?

I'm leaning towards Xpin for sure, especially since the future wife said we were never selling it.

As for the chips, haven't tried that yet but certainly can try it. Also, please remember I went this board away to Ed Cheung who ran a stress test on it for 2 weeks with no issues. Not sure if that rules out the chips or not but I wanted to mention it. I don't recall seeing any acid leaks big I will look again.

I have xpin displays in my GL they look really good as you are able to dim them to the same sort of brightness as the originals.

Xpin has been ordered!

Hmmm, cant be the chips then, if he had a rodeo day with it and found no faults... maybe something that dont dont like getting warm on some other board? or did you test all the boards?

Could be a bad cap pn the PSU, diod dead on one of the coils, or chip sockets gone bad, or you have to resolder the pins.

Just a quick update on my random lock up issue. It has not locked up in almost 3 weeks. Very strange as the game gets play quite a bit and in the past it would usually lock up at least once. Didn’t really change or do anything other than removing one extra piece of electronic equipment off of the plug. Time will tell. I’m fairly confident the game will die during the 40 player tournament in hosting on 3/10.

So finally the game died on me today. First game of the day, nothing crazy going on, no multi-ball or anything. Just hitting some drop targets and it died.

CONFIRMED - Background music is still playing and all lights are on.

CONFIRMED - All coils are dead and no displays.

CONFIRMED - MPU board was sent out to Ed Cheung and verified good after 2 weeks of bench testing.

CONFIRMED - All caps on the PSU have been replaced.

Powered game off and back on and have played 10+ games with no issues. I will be testing the voltage later today.

power supply rebuild or get new

Might wanna re-cap the PSU, like i said earlier.

Last update for now. Since this game is never leaving the house (per the girlfriend), I'm just going to buy a new PSU. I've already replaced the displays and display driver with new, so might as well buy a new PSU. I'll report back after I get that installed. Thanks!

Where did you get the alligator head?

Update on my game shutting down. No good news. New Rottendog PSU arrived yesterday. Installed it and on game 3-4 it shut down. Once again I lifted the PF and checked every wire and diode and couldn’t find anything amiss. The only thing I did notice and I’m not sure if this has any effect on anything, I do have a couple of wires going to coils that have shoddy soldering. Most of the wires are not connected and the wire is literally hanging on by 1-2 small wires. Again not sure if this plays a factor but I’m going to resoldered those today.

What should I do at this point?

Did you replace the big filter cap? Where did you get it?

Usually bad solenoids/diods/connections result in resets when you hit the flipper-buttons, but, maybe you should resolder those shoody ones just have them done just in case.

The whole thing feels like voltage failure somewhere though. *shrugs*

I removed the existing PSU from the original game and then simply installed the Rottendog one. Not sure what you are referring to about the big filter cap? It was plug and play, at least that is what I thought.

Just finished redoing the shoddy solder jobs. So hopefully we can eliminate that as well.

No. The filter cap is part of the power system, but it is not on the PSU board. It's a big honkin' can cap, mounted in the back right next to the bridge rectifiers. Should be around 30,000 uF. When you get random resets on a Sys 11, that's the first thing to replace.

Another alternative, which also replaces the bridge rectifiers, is this: http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/bridge_board.htm

I'm following now. I haven't touched the filter cap.

Yeah could be that one aswell, if its going bad. Didnt think about that.

Walmart

So I bought a grand lizard basket case a few days ago and it had this beautiful clearcoated playfield but the most of the underside and entire topside were stripped. I have a second complete machine but it's in storage and I don't have the space to break it out. I've spent the last few days putting it all together and here is where I'm at. If you notice anything wrong please point it out. I'm kinda flying blind and just using the gallery in this thread. The bottom was pretty easy.... The top surprisingly has been much harder.

IMAG1187 (resized).jpg

IMAG1184 (resized).jpg

Buy a bit set at harbor freight.

Woot back in the club. I found a cherry high end restoration!!!

Pics or it didn’t happen!

Pics are incoming. It's 100% completed transaction.

Getting there

IMAG1191 (resized).jpg

Hey guys. Been a while since I've been in this thread as I sold the game years ago. I want it back. Was just combing thru and say this post from a year ago. Was this one of my decals? Looks good. I have sold lots but never hear or see the finished product. Looks like you did a good job on the install.

Yeah, I think it was one of the first ones you made. It wasn't a perfect install, but it ended up WAY better than before! But like everything else in life... Shortly after installing the decal I scored a clear coated NOS playfield...

I dunno, sounds like you maybe got voltage problems? did you do the basic things, like resolder contacts, recap the boards etc?

Every time I see this thread back at the top, I hope there is news regarding new plastics being ready!

Sorry bro, havent heard anything from Pinfatuated lately.

Well resolder all the contacts on all the boards (always good), check the connections, recap the PSU board and Soundboard (always good) and check voltages during stress.

Ok I have a small update. I had a guy come over and look at the game. He tested voltage at the necessary places and received either 5.0 or 4.9 on all test points. He checked the giant cap that’s mounted to the bottom of the backboard, tests good and it’s actually not the original one, it’s already been replaced at least once. The next thing he discovered was the remote battery install. It was a 4 slot battery holder filled with 4 batteries. He said the “RAM” chip was very hot. His belief is the batteries are/were delivering to much voltage to the CPU board and thus causing the RAM to overheat. He replaced it with a 3 slot battery holder. Time will now tell. We did not have time today to test the game with leads on the TP connectors. Does this make sense and could be the possible culprit for machine locking up randomly and dying?

Hmm i do know that boards that recharge the "built-in" batteries must have a blocker diode installed on the + side of the battery holder, but im not sure of Williams system 11 boards need that? But could be a possible culprit, but seems odd that the RAM should mess with your game like that, it usually only holds the setup memory? Better do a hard test ASAP and see if its fixed.