Well, try starting game again, if the Solenoid fuse pops again it sound to me like a short somewhere around the solenoids, have you checked the ground cables?
Well, try starting game again, if the Solenoid fuse pops again it sound to me like a short somewhere around the solenoids, have you checked the ground cables?
.
Quoted from Luzur:Well, try starting game again, if the Solenoid fuse pops again it sound to me like a short somewhere around the solenoids, have you checked the ground cables?
I've played 30 or more games since the fuse popped, haven't had any issues. Getting ready to tackle the upper playfield artwork with one of pauz21's decals as soon as I get some free time.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:.
I've played 30 or more games since the fuse popped, haven't had any issues. Getting ready to tackle the upper playfield artwork with one of pauz21's decals as soon as I get some free time.
Would love to see some more high res photos when you are done. I am gonna have to end up going this route eventually.
Anybody in the Grand Lizard Club have spare parts? Found out yesterday that my MPU is probably a loss and I need an aux sound board and alpha numeric displays.
Just checking.
Quoted from ChanningD:Anybody in the Grand Lizard Club have spare parts? Found out yesterday that my MPU is probably a loss and I need an aux sound board and alpha numeric displays.
Just checking.
I'm not a pinball techie, still new to all of this, but I was browsing the Pinfest thread and noticed someone has a XPin for sale, will that solve your Alpha Numeric Display issue? The info is below.
XPin XP-WMS10877 Display Set in BLUE. Compatible with High Speed/Pin*bot/Road Kings/Grand Liz/Lazer War. Like new. Installed for less than a year. Work 100%. Have original box and packaging and original sales receipt from K's Arcade. $175 OBO (Pinside username is spiroagnew)
Yes it will and actually the sound board and displays are an easy affordable fix. The MPU is the kill all.
Finally decided to apply my upper playfield decal from pauz21 here are my before, during, and after photos. My only mistake, not cutting out the inserts before applying the decal. Now I have ugly scratches on my inserts. Hopefully they will buff out with some really high grit sandpaper.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Finally decided to apply my upper playfield decal from pauz21 here are my before, during, and after photos. My only mistake, not cutting out the inserts before applying the decal. Now I have ugly scratches on my inserts. Hopefully they will buff out with some really high grit sandpaper.
20160412_204821_(resized).jpg20160412_212525_(resized).jpg20160412_212546_(resized).jpg20160412_212559_(resized).jpg20160412_212622_(resized).jpg20160412_220547_(resized).jpg20160412_221930_(resized).jpg20160412_224139_(resized).jpg20160413_000628_(resized).jpg
Looks good man. Yeah definitely cut those before. Except the one with the pilot hole that isn't sized quite right. But good job.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Finally decided to apply my upper playfield decal from pauz21 here are my before, during, and after photos. My only mistake, not cutting out the inserts before applying the decal. Now I have ugly scratches on my inserts. Hopefully they will buff out with some really high grit sandpaper.
20160412_204821_(resized).jpg20160412_212525_(resized).jpg20160412_212546_(resized).jpg20160412_212559_(resized).jpg20160412_212622_(resized).jpg20160412_220547_(resized).jpg20160412_221930_(resized).jpg20160412_224139_(resized).jpg20160413_000628_(resized).jpg
Flashball. Thanks so much for this post. I now feel confident to go ahead and do this soon.
Cutting perfect circles is nightmarish! Need a template tool and compass knife.
The other thing to suggest is the left orbit. I was unable to recreate that art work in the orbit so when I put the original decal on I left the black decal up in the orbit and just covered up the art. Looked cleaner. You did a good job though.
Another suggestion I might add, when re-installing the ramp assembly be careful not to tighten this screw too tight (marked in photo with yellow circle) Too tight and it will pinch the assembly causing the ball to get stuck in the lizards mouth.
There are two connectors under the playfield that bring power to the eyes and the switch on the ramp center, don't forget to plug them back in after youre finished.
As with most GLs, my upper playfield was also pretty bad. The guy who sold me the machine included one of those decals, but it personally bothered me that it was so different from the original art (to each his own of course). This is my first machine, and definitely the first time I've tried to do any touch up work. I did a ton of research on the best paints and methods to use. But obviously this artwork is super complex and I quickly got in over my head. There are so many tiny sketch lines and there were missing numbers.
It took a couple weeks of just doing a little bit at a time. I used some decent photos from the IPDB as reference. The most difficult part is getting the worn down areas to be level and flat. Doing it again, I definitely would have put down more base coats in the beginning to even it out. I thought I had done enough, but ended up having to do a bunch of leveling with clear coat afterwards.
I'm happy with how it came out, but my biggest regret was adding Marco Specialties mylar afterwards (not shown in pictures). The bottom playfield already had that stock GL specific mylar on it, which I am fine with. But the Marco Specialties mylar by the foot that I bought just isn't the same. It is thinner and much shinier and just seems to highlight imperfections and tiny bubbles. Oh well, lessons learned!
Quoted from ufiti:As with most GLs, my upper playfield was also pretty bad. The guy who sold me the machine included one of those decals, but it personally bothered me that it was so different from the original art (to each his own of course). This is my first machine, and definitely the first time I've tried to do any touch up work. I did a ton of research on the best paints and methods to use. But obviously this artwork is super complex and I quickly got in over my head. There are so many tiny sketch lines and there were missing numbers.
It took a couple weeks of just doing a little bit at a time. I used some decent photos from the IPDB as reference. The most difficult part is getting the worn down areas to be level and flat. Doing it again, I definitely would have put down more base coats in the beginning to even it out. I thought I had done enough, but ended up having to do a bunch of leveling with clear coat afterwards.
I'm happy with how it came out, but my biggest regret was adding Marco Specialties mylar afterwards (not shown in pictures). The bottom playfield already had that stock GL specific mylar on it, which I am fine with. But the Marco Specialties mylar by the foot that I bought just isn't the same. It is thinner and much shinier and just seems to highlight imperfections and tiny bubbles. Oh well, lessons learned!Before_(resized).jpgZAfter_(resized).jpg
Looks great. Nice work
Thanks! Now I just need to figure out how to restore my lizard head (since I don't think I'll be finding one for sale anytime soon). Anyone have any luck with this? What did you use? I saw that TNT Amusements YouTube video where they did an awesome job repairing one using Bondo. But of course they don't really explain how to do it.
Quoted from ufiti:As with most GLs, my upper playfield was also pretty bad. The guy who sold me the machine included one of those decals, but it personally bothered me that it was so different from the original art (to each his own of course). This is my first machine, and definitely the first time I've tried to do any touch up work. I did a ton of research on the best paints and methods to use. But obviously this artwork is super complex and I quickly got in over my head. There are so many tiny sketch lines and there were missing numbers.
It took a couple weeks of just doing a little bit at a time. I used some decent photos from the IPDB as reference. The most difficult part is getting the worn down areas to be level and flat. Doing it again, I definitely would have put down more base coats in the beginning to even it out. I thought I had done enough, but ended up having to do a bunch of leveling with clear coat afterwards.
I'm happy with how it came out, but my biggest regret was adding Marco Specialties mylar afterwards (not shown in pictures). The bottom playfield already had that stock GL specific mylar on it, which I am fine with. But the Marco Specialties mylar by the foot that I bought just isn't the same. It is thinner and much shinier and just seems to highlight imperfections and tiny bubbles. Oh well, lessons learned!Before_(resized).jpgZAfter_(resized).jpg
The decal is mine and no offence taken. I'm pretty honest about the fact it's far from a perfect match. But yours looks really really good. Nice job.
Quoted from Pauz21:The decal is mine and no offence taken. I'm pretty honest about the fact it's far from a perfect match. But yours looks really really good. Nice job.
Thanks! Definitely no offense meant. I think it's great that everyone is working together to make solutions like this available to others.
Quoted from ufiti:Thanks! Definitely no offense meant. I think it's great that everyone is working together to make solutions like this available to others.
UFiti.. Did you create a decal. Or restore the playfield by painting. Just want to clarify.
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:UFiti.. Did you create a decal. Or restore the playfield by painting. Just want to clarify.
Painted it using Createx paint.
Quoted from ufiti:Painted it using Createx paint.
Here is the template I created to use as a reference when painting the linework. Just in case it is useful to anyone.
Quoted from ufiti:Here is the template I created to use as a reference when painting the linework. Just in case it is useful to anyone.
GL-Overlay-MOD-01_(resized).jpg
Jeezez... be ready to be hit up for decals. That's really, really good.
Does anybody have a HD pic of the Prototype backglass? best i can find on the net is this one:
But thats is lighted so it wont work, need an unlighted one, planning on making a mock-up for test printing on paper so i can get a feeling for the whole deal, but i need a better pic + one with the displays in a row on the bottom part, if possible.
Also, i printed my plastics out on paper with my printer and installed those over the original plastics (although my printer makes the blue color real bright for some reason, supposed to be darker) to see how it looks IRL
That's Pretty Awesome. I'm still on the fence if I'm using decal, or doing a serious resto.
Quoted from ufiti:Here is the template I created to use as a reference when painting the linework. Just in case it is useful to anyone.
GL-Overlay-MOD-01_(resized).jpg
Quoted from Luzur:Does anybody have a HD pic of the Prototype backglass? best i can find on the net is this one:
http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?app=downloads&module=display§ion=screenshot&record=22616&id=7863&full=1
But thats is lighted so it wont work, need an unlighted one, planning on making a mock-up for test printing on paper so i can get a feeling for the whole deal, but i need a better pic + one with the displays in a row on the bottom part, if possible.
Also, i printed my plastics out on paper with my printer and installed those over the original plastics (although my printer makes the blue color real bright for some reason, supposed to be darker) to see how it looks IRLIMG_2093_(resized).JPG
Hi guys just joined the club.
Im looking too for proto glass (scan or photo) escpecially because my current bg is litlle bit off theme
Quoted from Radsson:Hi guys just joined the club.
Im looking too for proto glass (scan or photo) escpecially because my current bg is litlle bit off theme
IMAG0972_(resized).jpg
Not too far off. I think if you just add green LED's to the back glass you will be all set!
Quoted from Radsson:Hi guys just joined the club.
Im looking too for proto glass (scan or photo) escpecially because my current bg is litlle bit off theme
IMAG0972_(resized).jpg
Huh? LOL
Seems BGresto is your best bet, bro:
And then you can either sign up for the plastics ive made, although im not sure how far off they are of being made right now, or find the real prototype plastics out there somewhere.
I made some target decals for the LIZARD spots for my GL, i found the mandrill on the internet though (it seems cant draw a good one to save my life, believe me i tried...) so i dunno how it is about copyright and stuff.
So if you want it let meknow and i'll post it here, but you are on your own with the copyright risk LOL
Anyone looking for a Lizard backglass? Check here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-allentown-pinfest-2016-thread/page/30#post-3126507
"K3V" has one for sale for $150.00 and will be at the Allentown Pinfest Show.
Quoted from ltd73:Playing with colors this rainy weekend. I added some blue and purple LEDs
20160126_230025_(resized).jpg20160126_230030_(resized).jpg
Looks snazzy, gotta try purple
Also, here, im posting the targetdecal up for grabs.
General question for installing LED's in a game. Is there any general "rule of thumbs"? I'm new to all of this and I'm looking to pick up some LED's at Pinfest this weekend. But I have no clue where to begin. For example I can choose from Domes, SMDs, Brights, Super Flashers, Non-Ghosting. I don't know where to start. Let me say that I am not trying to restore these games or looking to resell them for a fortune. I'm simply looking for some LED's to install that "get the job done".
Quoted from djreddog:Anyone looking for a Lizard backglass? Check here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-allentown-pinfest-2016-thread/page/30#post-3126507
"K3V" has one for sale for $150.00 and will be at the Allentown Pinfest Show.
If anyone wants to see pics, let me know!
Quoted from djreddog:General question for installing LED's in a game. Is there any general "rule of thumbs"? I'm new to all of this and I'm looking to pick up some LED's at Pinfest this weekend. But I have no clue where to begin. For example I can choose from Domes, SMDs, Brights, Super Flashers, Non-Ghosting. I don't know where to start. Let me say that I am not trying to restore these games or looking to resell them for a fortune. I'm simply looking for some LED's to install that "get the job done".
Well, ive so far gone after how it looks with that color installed at that spot and then switched colors around if they didnt fit, also i try to go after the theme and the artwork when LED'ing, i dont shove in colorchangers and bright colors just to get spotlights in your face
Quoted from djreddog:General question for installing LED's in a game. Is there any general "rule of thumbs"? I'm new to all of this and I'm looking to pick up some LED's at Pinfest this weekend. But I have no clue where to begin. For example I can choose from Domes, SMDs, Brights, Super Flashers, Non-Ghosting. I don't know where to start. Let me say that I am not trying to restore these games or looking to resell them for a fortune. I'm simply looking for some LED's to install that "get the job done".
There are no general rules but if you choose to install led's that create a skittle-puking rainbow effect please resist the urge to post pics. I have found that Comet Sunlights work well in many situations and have quickly become my favorite.
Quoted from ltd73:Nice. Let me know when I can get a solid set
Are you on the list? I can put you up for a set.
Btw, i noticed a funny detail on my GL playfield, my "hero" looks like he have a mustache, is that supposed to be there? ive been comparing with pics from the net and they dont have that, and it seems like its part of the original art too, i certainly didnt add that to him
Quoted from Elevatorman:Take me off the list please.I am selling my machine.I am out of space and unfortunately GL has to go.I'm going to miss it.
Thanks.
Ok, done.
Luzur, I just checked my game and the hero is clean shaven. Yours does appear to have decided to sport the 'stache. Makes him look a little like Captain Freedom in The Running Man movie.
Quoted from Silverballer:Luzur, I just checked my game and the hero is clean shaven. Yours does appear to have decided to sport the 'stache. Makes him look a little like Captain Freedom in The Running Man movie.
Huh, weird, must be some joke from a previous owner.
Thats the ticket, no pain, no gain!
Well bros, i kinda need some sound T-molding advice here, which color would fit on the edges of the backbox of GL the best? Or should i skip t molding and keep it black? a part of me wants to do something with that "blank spot" while another part of me sees it looks ok enough.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/grand-lizard-club-mandrills-get-in-free/page/10 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.