Cyclopes
Game Plan, 1985Anyone know how to turn the sounds and flashers off during attract mode on a Cyclopes? Supposedly DIP 13 is for turning this on and off but it doesn't do anything. I've checked the switch and it's fine.
Is it a bug in the code? Can anyone verify if it is able to be turned off?
You're a frickin' genius! That worked! Man that was driving me crazy. Now that tells me the dip settings in the manual are incorrect. I switched both #16 and #25 off so not sure which switch did it. I'll have to figure out what each switch does if the manual is incorrect.
Thanks again!!
While I posted here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-pinball-owners-and-future-owners-must-read#post-1844924 - that many of the GP uprights use the same ROMs at U12 and U13, Cyclopes does not. So, there are standard GP DIP switch settings if the machine uses the "standard" ROMs at U12 and U13. But if it doesn't, like Cyclopes, there are game-specific settings.
When looking at all the settings for Cyclopes, I think attract is S16. In the "standard" ROM this switch is normally used for the "Sound coin deposit option" so it makes sense it was used here for attract.
Here are the Cyclopes game-specific switches I have documented:
S6 - Eyes target option, 25k=on, 10k=off
S7 - Recall spinner values, yes=on, no=off
S13 - Light lock hole, 1 bank=on, 2 banks=off
S15 - Recall regular bonus, held=on, not held=off
S16 - Attract mode, on=on, off=off
S22 - Eyes extra ball, 75k=on, 100k=off
S23,S24 - Balls per game, 1=off, off, 2=on, off, 3=off, on, 5=on,on
S25 - Tilt warnings, 2 warnings=on, none=off
Even with this, I'm not sure these are correct. In addition to the conflict with attract/sound coin option, there are other conflicts. S13 in the "standard" ROM is used to set background sound on or off, though since Cyclopes uses the MSU board, this may not be necessary. S22 in the "standard" ROM sets whether the bonus multiplier is held, though I think that's what S15 is for here. And since S25 is usually used with S26 and S27 in the "standard" ROM to set maximum credits, I'm not sure how that's handled if it's used for tilt warnings here.
Best thing for you to do is try them and report back.
Good luck!
viperrwk
Wow thanks! I'll have to play around with those DIP settings and see what changes.
Too bad I can't turn off the multi-player end of game bonus ball...
Is there background sound on Cyclopes? There doesn't appear to be any on the PAPA gameplay video, but maybe they have it turned off?
#t=76
Quoted from noahpdavis:Is there background sound on Cyclopes? There doesn't appear to be any on the PAPA gameplay video, but maybe they have it turned off?
» YouTube video
May indeed not be and not that I have documentation for but given the conflict with some of the other DIP switch settings, it might be possible to enable it. Someone would have to try various switch settings...
viperrwk
Yes there is a low level heart beat background sound. Probably not picked up on that PAPA video.
On a side note I may have killed my MPU. It boots fine, player 2 display strobes and many of the switches don't respond. Can't start a game even if there are credits on the machine. I'm thinking I fried my DM45154N as that has display and switch strobes. Crap.
Is this an original GP board? If so are you talking about the chip at U14? That should be a 74154.
You can check it using this procedure:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=general#Testing_an_integrated_circuit
You should get between .4-.6 on every pin except 18, 19 (0) and 24 (about .2-.3). Anything else and the chip is bad (a common failure point).
viperrwk
Are you sure you got all the pins correctly or your meter is working correctly and there's no damage to the board? Pins 18 and 19 are tied to ground and unless it's in a socket that has failed you should get a zero reading for both pins -it's like measuring any two ground points on the board in diode setting.
viperrwk
DMM is fine. I measured with the chip pulled from the board. I saw 18 and 19 are ground but still got that voltage from those two pins. I'm afraid there might be more damage to the board than this chip. I mean it boots, gives the boot up chime, goes into attract mode. Most switches don't work in test and it won't start a game. Player 2 display is strobing all others are fine.
If that's the reading on the chip out of the socket then the chip itself is fine.
Of course since it is socketed, someone has worked on that board because that chip is not socketed from the factory. Unfortunately you have to suspect and inspect previous work.
That chip directly controls the displays and lamp strobes. If it's ok and you're having a problem, other than board damage, next thing to suspect is the PIA.
viperrwk
Is the PIA the P8225 at U17? Would you think the Z80 CPU is fine if it boots and goes into attract mode?
Ok figured it out!
While putting the game back together, after shopping it out, the game developed an issue. The player 2 display flickered and flashed random digits and the game wouldn't start. After much monkeying around replacing chips replacing connectors, nothing helped.
So I went into switch test and noticed some switches worked and some didn't. The reason a game wouldn't start was because the ball trough switches weren't registering so a game wouldn't start. I decided to write down all the switches that didn't work and see if there was something in common.
As it turns out the commonality was a white wire with a red stripe. So I desoldered that wire from all the switches and started reconnecting one at a time until the problem came back. When I got to the left spinner the display started flashing again. So it had something to do with the left spinner switch.
Removed the spinner switch from the actuator arm and all was fine. Weird. When I touched the switch to the actuator arm the display flickered. WTF?
The left spinner switch is metal, the actuator is metal, the spinner arm is metal, the spinner is metal and the spinner bracket is metal. This all sits above and touches the left orbit ball guide that is also metal. So I'm figuring there must be voltage running along the ball guide to the spinner and through the switch matrix back to the MPU causing the problem.
There are two screws that fasten the spinner to the playfield and three screws that fasten the ball guide to the playfield. Upon closer inspection one of the screws that holds the ball guide down is directly over a GI lighting string. When I loosened the screw the display went back to normal and all switches worked. Tighten the screw and the display went wonky again and a game wouldn't start. Apparently the screw was too long poked through the playfield and touched the GI line and fed back through the spinner and switch matrix and caused display and switch issues.
Put in a shorter screw and 4 days of pulling my hair out is now over! Now to finally move forward! Whew!
Can you post a gameplay video with the background sound turned on when you getting going? Curious to hear what it sounds like.
Great vid - thanks!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-cyclopes-game-play-videos
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