So, I acquired this game and after a little research it seems clear that it has never had it's day in the sun so to speak. No videos anywhere and no discussion.

A good time to give the game some air time and also document it's restoration as there might be some out there who are thinking of getting a woodrail. This is my last for a while and about my 12th that I have gone through. I am a relative beginner so anyone who wants to chip in and offer better advice, feel free.

I hope that maybe one more person will become interested in the Gottlieb woodrails as they offer fantastic gameplay, are rare and many are works of art.

Anyway, The 4 Horsemen.

A Wayne Neyens design, Roy Parker artwork. 1800 produced. Fairly high number but actually a very hard game to find. Non have been for sale on ebay in last 10 years. My guess is that it was a popular theme and a great player and consequently the survival rate is lower than other games.

History of this one is fascinating.

The 4 Horsemen were very famous back in 1926! They played their games at the Notre Dame Stadium. The backglass features Notre Dame stadium. I wonder if Gottlieb used the guys for promoting the game? Would be great to find a photo of such an event.

Here is a little history with some photos.

The Four Horsemen of Notre Dame comprised a winning group of American football players at the University of Notre Dame under coach Knute Rockne. They were the backfield of Notre Dame's 1924 football team. The players that made up this group were Harry Stuhldreher, Don Miller, Jim Crowley, and Elmer Layden.

In 1924, a nickname coined by sportswriter Grantland Rice and the actions of a student publicity aide transformed the Notre Dame backfield of Stuhldreher, Crowley, Miller, and Layden into the most fabled quartet in college football history, the Four Horsemen of Notre Dame.

Quarterback Harry Stuhldreher, left halfback Jim Crowley, right halfback Don Miller, and fullback Elmer Layden had run rampant through Irish opponents' defenses since coach Knute Rockne devised the lineup in 1922 during their sophomore season. During the three-year tenure of the Four Horsemen, Notre Dame lost only two games; one each in 1922 and 1923, both to Nebraska in Lincoln before packed houses.

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Here is my game as received.

Will use thread for general woodrail chitter/chatter.

Even if only 1 person is interested, it's worth doing this thread.

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I guess then more general discussion about woodrails in general then. There may be a few who are thinking of getting a first woodrail so an opportunity to pass on info, even though most on here know a ton of stuff. Although many have ignored woodrails which is a shame as many are incredible players.

Will chat about condition/originality as it's an interesting topic with mixed opinions in the woodrail era. When I walk into my woodrail room it is like stepping into a time capsule and the first thing that hits me is the vibrant colors, and upbeat nature of the artwork.

I first played a woodrail a couple of years ago and got hooked. First and foremost though is gameplay. The Gottliebs from say 1950 - 1955 are just so addictive to play. Multiple ways to win with big jackpot specials, closer to gambling in many ways.

Funnily enough I started with the legs so that will be next post.

Ok, may as well talk legs!

From 1950 - 1955 all Gottlieb single player's had 31 inch wooden legs.

Nice when they come with the old style leg levelers.

As for this game, I believe they are the legs that actually came with the game - unusual for sure. If you look on the inside of wooden legs, occasionally it is possible to see paint that has come off the cabinet and in this case all 4 legs, match the cabinet.

A nice bonus as most times just happy to get 31 inch legs as easy to buy games that have Williams legs which are 32.5 inches and slightly wider. Twice I have been caught out with wrong legs and not easy to find now.

PBR do make nice reproductions.

Generally I just use the lacquer thinner technique as advocated by Alan Lewis. Some people re-finish with clear lacquer which looks great as well.

And big thanks to Dirtflipper as learnt so much from him - awesome guy

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Agree.

Will eventually do video and put on youtube as it is a real shame when games are not available to see. I love checking out videos as can get a feel on whether a game is a good player or not.

In my head I was wondering if this game is a better play than the highly rated 1950 title, Knock Out.....but I have played that game.

Even RGP archives are pretty lacking when it comes to discussing woodrails. I guess so few people have been exposed to them and few still have taken the time to see that the multiple ways of winning was possibly the pinnacle of em pinball. That of course is a a view that the majority will disagree with!

Agree in that games that have history and tie in with real people and events are even more special.

Love the fact that Jessica Dragonette was used by Gottlieb to promote Dragonette.

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For me, buying a woodrail, there are 3 rules, condition, condition and condition.

And with woodrails, I put a large premium on original condition. Obviously 60 year old rare games are not exactly plentiful so compromises must be made.

My 4 Horsemen is high in the original camp.

Original cabinet art, backglass, pop caps, plastics, legs. Oh, as for 50's plastics - NEVER try to flatten them!

Some general buying tips.

Here are a few ways I try to assess condition. If possible get a picture of back of the game. The more wear the more likely they have been dragged everywhere. I suspect this game was in a home for 50 years plus looking at the back of it.

I also look at wear near the flippers on the outside of the cabinet. as another clue as to how many games have been played - generally the more wear the more play.

And shooter lane wear, especially the opposite side.

Playfield wear is more obvious but look under pop bumpers to see how much wear.

Backglass. Originals are ideal but not always possible so ideally check to see repro glasses are available.

For most woodrails, check if it has the right coin door as finding replacements is next to impossible.

Are the original labels still in the game?

Collectively all these things and many others tell a story and give a hint as to how a game has been treated.

This game even has original playfield glass. But it is sharp as anything and untempered so really, I should make a concession and put in tempered glass........ I think.

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Quick note on the game rules. A great ruleset for a game made in 1950, featuring multiple ways to win.

4 top lanes correspond to lighting one pop bumper. They can score single points when lit. So, possible to have all 4 lit and score heavily. 65 points for first replay.

Hit numbers 1 - 11 and 2 special when lit lanes light up. Possible to score 2 replays each time a ball goes in this lane.

Hit the 4 backfield rollovers and extra special lane lights up for 3 replays.

Lastly score 5 million 500000 for millions replays.

So, multiple ways to win and the game pays out big when features are lit.

Remember back in 1950 winners would go to the bar and exchange credits/specials for cash.

Safety gate game, my only one.

My suspicion on the games low survival rate is that this game was played to death on location as players always felt they were in with a chance of winning. Add in that the 4 Horsemen were famous sportsmen and Gottlieb had a huge hit on their hands.

I have only played a few games as don't play my games until I have been through them. First impressions are very, very good though.

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In an ideal world, it would be title followed by condition.

But sometimes, actually a lot, can't even find the title at all. So, a lovely example of another games comes up and temptation is great.

Probably half my games are title driven in that I found them in the condition I hoped. Other half are condition in that they weren't on my list but condition was so nice I bought them. Checking first that they were good players.

I saw a perfect Guys and Dolls for under a $1000 a while back but even a new one couldn't get me past the push posts!

Sounds amazing

Nothing like time capsule games.

So, the great triple thick debate. Some people do every glass. I only do them when there is signs of deterioration.

I wish this glass had been done as it would have been so much nicer. So, this is an example of what happens if you don't do it. So, here any risks of doing it outweigh NOT doing it.

I suspect the glass had not been taken out for decades as bits of the backglass were everywhere.

Anyway this glass had to be triple thicked - no doubt about it.

Original stays in game - probably rate it 7/10.

Got a repro as it is available so good to have a nice back up.

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Now I have triple thicked it, can run my hand over the back of it, no problem at all. Not going to try and touch it up as really, you have to be an artist to do a good job. It is really difficult. I know my limitations.

Luckily the cheerleader is in good shape as she conveys the atmosphere of the game/stadium etc.

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Well, seems like not many appreciate woodrails but with very low supply, I guess any increased interest would have an effect.

I also love the quality of these games. Boy, they knew how to build things to last in those times!

Just cleaned the coin door and it always amazes me how nice parts clean up. Haven't done ball lift and shooter rod so they are still black.

I like looking at the original colors underneath the coin mech.

For 66 years old the coin door cleaned up real nice. It was filthy which is good as satisfying to see it instantly looking better.

I like patina but not rust so cleaned the metal work.

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It would be nice if every collector had a woodrail or later em as they are pinball history and nothing would have followed otherwise.

This lacquer thinner is so good.

The shooter lane looked really worn out.

1 minute later it looked like this!

Not many jobs in pinball that are so quick but effective. Great tip given by Alan Lewis.

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One of the best tips I have ever used. All I had to do in the shooter lane was one paper towel and wipe the thinner over it and it 'spreads' it out. I do then add caruba wax afterwards.

I have used this on all my woodrails as blemishes/marks just vanish.

I have even used it at top of p/f to reduce ball tracks. Not sure if you 'should' or shouldn't but happy with results. Then add a few coats of caruba.

I take no credit as I just watched this video.

You can't quite see this that well but this is before and after - look at the bottom wood rail.

The job took less than a minute.

Pics are a bit rubbish - looked a lot better in real life!

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I found another reason why this game is generally beat to death.

Just by unlighting 4 top rollovers, lights 2 outside lanes for 3 specials.

Not only that, there are 3 switches so the effect is crack, pause, crack, pause, crack!

I don't recall another game that is so generous in delivering 3 specials and that awards them in this manner.

No wonder players put so much coin into the game.

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Yet to get to the bottom board but pretty unusual as no score motor in the game despite all it's features.

Needs a major clean.

Amazingly the game counter works! They very rarely do and I don't know how to repair them when they are broken.

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Love the fact that these Gottliebs were built to go on forever!

This I think is only game I have with brass flipper bushings. If I cleaned them they would look as good as new even after 66 years of play.

Quick tip - 99% of you will know this but I only learnt recently ( thanks DF ) so there may be others out there.

One of my flippers was too tight against the p/f and I could see signs of damage underneath.

Took the flipper off and put the shaft into drill so I could file flat as otherwise set screws just bite into old marks.

Put thin cardboard under flipper and re-set it so it now has 'play'. i.e hold flipper bat and pull and there should be slight movement.

All you guys know this stuff but it is kind of essential. Also by filing out old marks can re-set flippers so they align perfectly ( well, not always possible as 66 year old mechs also have big amounts of wear in them ).

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Going to wrap this thread up more or less, although hopefully will add video before end of year.

Some snippets.

Inserts often sink but they are really easy to remove and put back in. Tip. Leave heavy object on top of p/f as they can rise. Thanks to DF for that one.

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guess the biggest issue on these woodrails is steppers. So far, had tons of different issues in different games but learnt that with through cleaning and adjustment it is possible to get them working 100%.

Apart from the obvious areas that get gummed up, all sorts of strange issues.

Took me a few weeks to sort the 10k stepper out.

One of the issues was it would go 90000, 190000, 100000......like clockwork.

Turns out one of the shoes had been put back in the wrong hole, probably a decade or two ago!

Problem solved with shoe changed.

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These parts/armatures always get gummed up and can cause all sorts of issues. Clean, degrease etc.

This game kept starting at 10000 and boy, adjusting switches and brackets to get it to re-set at zero took hours and hours!

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Anyway game is done

Early thoughts - one of the easier woodrails to beat. Tremendous game.

For me, it's in my top 3 as I was drawn to it from the get go but the multiple ways to win combined with the possibility of really winning big on this game, makes a keeper for me.

If I were playing games back in 1950 ish, this would be game I would put my money in as I would have always felt like I had a chance of winning.

The 4 pop bumpers in the middle of the p/f give amazing action for this vintage and when lit, a special can be awarded from nowhere.

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