(Topic ID: 233321)

Gottliebs Far Out


By csdoplr

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 39 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by jasonspoint28
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 9 months ago

Hello all I recently acquired a Gottlieb Far Out Machine. I am pretty new to pinball and the power cord is not connected to turn the game on. I also have a small Jones plug that has four prongs. I have the prongs for the Jones plug and the cord I just have no idea where to place them or how to wire them up and I can't seem to find any help online. If anyone can point out where this Jone plugs goes into and how to wire up the power cord that has only two prongs I would greatly appreciate it thank you.

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#2 9 months ago

The 4 prong jones plug should plug into the tilt board (this is on the cable that comes off of the coin door?). As to the power cord, is it just missing the plug or do you need the connection at the fuse/transformer end?

The two spade luges get mounted on the inside of the cab to wires coming off the coin chute, here's a pic

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#3 9 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

The 4 prong jones plug should plug into the tilt board (this is on the cable that comes off of the coin door?). As to the power cord, is it just missing the plug or do you need the connection at the fuse/transformer end?
The two spade luges get mounted on the inside of the cab to wires coming off the coin chute, here's a pic[quoted image]

Oh thanks so much! I believe I need to connect the fuse transformer end as I have the plug head that goes into the wall. How is this done?

#4 9 months ago

Update: I got the machine hooked up and turned on. I have pushed the relay to start a game and the motor runs but wont't start a game. Does anyone know how to get the game to start so I can use the flippers? It just flashes game over even with credits in the game. Thanks

#5 9 months ago
Quoted from csdoplr:

how to get the game to start

If the Replay Button (V) relay doesn't activate when you press the Replay Button on the front door, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

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#6 9 months ago
Quoted from HowardR:

If the Replay Button (V) relay doesn't activate when you press the Replay Button on the front door, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
[quoted image]

Thanks so much I will check that out. As of now no coin wires are hooked up to the coin door as the coin door is off and I have no coin mechanisms. Could this be a issue as well?

#7 9 months ago
Quoted from csdoplr:

coin door is off

Yes, the Replay Button is the red metal button on the front door.

#8 9 months ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Yes, the Replay Button is the red metal button on the front door.

and a slam switch, game wont start

#9 9 months ago

I've made some progress. The game now constantly stays in game over. When I push the game over switch on everything works. So the issue is the hold relay won't activate and keep the game over switch open to play. I've looked on the forums but can't find a answer. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

#10 9 months ago
Quoted from csdoplr:

I've made some progress. The game now constantly stays in game over. When I push the game over switch on everything works. So the issue is the hold relay won't activate and keep the game over switch open to play. I've looked on the forums but can't find a answer. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

howardr you have the slam switch chain to post?

#11 9 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

howardr you have the slam switch chain to post?

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1 month later
#12 7 months ago

I purchased this 'Far Out' from CSDopler several weeks ago - for a fair price - and have begun a proper restoration. No coin mechs & loose wiring, no lockdown bar or playfield glass, rusty flat black legs, orange extension cord hacked in as a power cord, a disconnected score motor switch with 3 other switch wires cut nearby. The backbox lights were wired to a modern microswitch (?) mounted to an L bracket & hanging unsupported in the coin box area - now bypassed to get them operational. I've rebuilt the 'F' AS relay, which was missing it's spring and was crappy dirty. There's no replay button or switch on the coin door (on order via PBR). A couple of the relay bank arms (one being a 'series arm') are mangled to the point of questionable repair. The player unit properly illuminates (manually actuating the solenoid) through Players and Balls to Game Over/Match. I will get this one back into operation, with time...also, while the playfield is overall in pretty good shape , the backglass is trash - repro on order from BGResto.

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#13 7 months ago
Quoted from DaveB8:

I purchased this 'Far Out' from CSDopler several weeks ago - for a fair price - and have begun a proper restoration. No coin mechs & loose wiring, no lockdown bar or playfield glass, rusty flat black legs, orange extension cord hacked in as a power cord, a disconnected score motor switch with 3 other switch wires cut nearby. The backbox lights were wired to a modern microswitch (?) mounted to an L bracket & hanging unsupported in the coin box area - now bypassed to get them operational. I've rebuilt the 'F' AS relay, which was missing it's spring and was crappy dirty. There's no replay button or switch on the coin door (on order via PBR). A couple of the relay bank arms (one being a 'series arm') are mangled to the point of questionable repair. The player unit properly illuminates (manually actuating the solenoid) through Players and Balls to Game Over/Match. I will get this one back into operation, with time...also, while the playfield is overall in pretty good shape , the backglass is trash - repro on order from BGResto.
[quoted image]

Great job glad it is coming together!

#14 7 months ago

Replaced damaged '2000' insert and currently repairing surrounding area with Elmer's wood filler. Touched up a LOT of black paint around inserts with a 1mm acrylic enamel paint pen - I think I took 20 years 'off' the thing. A circle template to redraw around the 2000 is on order - tried it freehand, and it was crap - wiped it off with Simple Green. Meanwhile a PILE of parts await install - coils, sleeves, 'rebuild' for the credit button & chime unit, etc. Should keep me busy for the next month of spare time...

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I've since installed TWO yellow & ONE red pop bumper bodies...manual indicated opposite and that's what I ordered without looking at the machine...

1 week later
#15 7 months ago

Progress...in some forum, somewhere, I read that 'baby steps' will result in ultimate success when bringing an EM pin back from the dead. I truly believe it. Following a bunch of cosmetic, mechanical, and minor electrical work, I took a look at the Z1 & Z2 relays a short time ago, after reading the start-up sequence and digesting it. Five switch blades were out of their proper slots on their armatures. I properly 'set' them with a blade adjustment tool (worth its weight in gold), manually actuated the hold relay, then the start relay --- all score reels properly reset to 00000. Score motor running non-stop until I push the relay bank in by-hand, maybe due to the disconnected switch and four cut wires at the '3' position on the score motor...wiring diagram analysis to continue...baby steps...enough for today...

#16 7 months ago
Quoted from DaveB8:

Score motor running non-stop until I push the relay bank in by-hand

Does the Control Bank Reset relay (U) activate when this happens?

#17 7 months ago

Hi Howard, thanks for the inquire. So, 'S' relay is not holding itself in when I move the armature. 'H' relay pulls & holds like it should and 'U' cycles/chatters in-time with the rotation of the score motor. If I press the 'U' armature in a bit during this, the Control Bank solenoid actuates, the Score Motor stops, and 'U' releases. When I purchased the machine wires were cut at Switch Bank #3, and one switch was dangling (also #3) -- as shown in the pic. I'm guessing that there is a missing brake switch from that 'dangler', as there is additional mounting core material sticking out of one side...any insight? I'm probably doing this bass-ackwards and need to get the score motor issue cleaned up prior to anything else, but haven't yet analyzed the wiring diagram to get each wire soldered 'home'. Thanks! If anyone has a photo of a operational Far Out (or, I assume Outta Sight) score motor bank #3 switch stack, it would be GREATLY appreciated.

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#18 7 months ago
Quoted from DaveB8:

If anyone has a photo of a operational Far Out (or, I assume Outta Sight) score motor bank #3 switch stack, it would be GREATLY appreciated.

In case it helps, here's an extract from the motor switch chart on page 7 of the Far Out manual.

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#19 7 months ago

Thanks, I've got the dang manual but never thought to reference it, duh. After looking over the motor, then the wiring diagram, then the 1978 parts book, it appears the missing link is a switch dog and bracket. I purchased a score motor assembly from e-bay a couple of weeks ago (from a Sky Fall) to cannibalize parts from, and will pull one of the dog assemblies and place at the 3C position, set for 'S', along with the dangling switch. Next up will be trying to figure out 45 year old wiring colors, a couple are obvious, others not so...

#20 7 months ago

Have been struggling with my Far Out for over a month
It is now with a professional that guaranteed he’ll get it to work as expected.

Glad to see I am not alone trying to restore one. But maybe they are too far out to be revived

#21 7 months ago

Apparently, this machine was raped for parts at some point. Here's what I found when I went to pull the right side target switch for a replacement 'face'...gee, missing solenoid...REALLY!!!???...order-more-stuff dot com...

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#22 6 months ago

Anyways, here's how the stand up target face replacements went. I used a cutoff wheel on my Dremel to shave the face off the rivet, then worked the remainder out by hand. Had to bend the forward leaf so I could get the transfer punch to sit square. Placed three layers of 3M painters tape on my vise's jaw top to protect the rivet head. Held all in-place and tap-tap-tapped the punch with a 1 lb. hammer. They turned out PERFECT - and not a blemish or crushed spot on either head. Trusty switch blade adjustment tool 'righted' the bent leaf afterwards.

Next up, awaiting Step Switch parts...

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#23 6 months ago

I'm hoping it was a really good deal with all this wrong with it...

FYI - score motor won't stop running till the bonus mech is zero'ed out either. Given the missing coil, that may be your issue before you tear into all the other stray wires.

I just got one maybe a month ago that I went through and got working. If you have any questions, give a yell.

#24 6 months ago
Quoted from statictrance:

I'm hoping it was a really good deal with all this wrong with it...
FYI - score motor won't stop running till the bonus mech is zero'ed out either. Given the missing coil, that may be your issue before you tear into all the other stray wires.
I just got one maybe a month ago that I went through and got working. If you have any questions, give a yell.

Thanks...
Missing step motor parts installed - new coil, coil stop, plunger & fiber link, along with a cannibalized bracket from a credit unit assembly. The only progress made is that the step motor properly resets upon (manual) game start, and the pop bumpers are now functional (I assume one of the black wires is the 'backside' AC for all, haven't delved into the wiring diagram too deeply yet). Now 'AS' Relay 'I' locks on and gets hot, chime plunger solenoids work once, then lock on upon playfield switch activation, humming away until I pull the common.

#25 6 months ago

One of the score reel solenoids should be locked on when this happens. Check its end-of-stroke switch.

#26 6 months ago
Quoted from HowardR:

One of the score reel solenoids should be locked on when this happens. Check its end-of-stroke switch.

Shall do...thanks!

#27 6 months ago

Not touching the machine today, as it's nearing the end of my work week, and I'm feeling pretty burnt out...However, some research on other threads thoroughly schooled me on Gottlieb's score motor switch hieroglyphics, and I'm ready to tackle reconstruction. Thanks to all personnel who posted explanations of this antique beast.

#28 6 months ago

I'm pretty sure I have the proper switch built (out of scavenged scraps) for position 3C - 2 NO switches & a switch dog set to 'S' position...when pressing the switch dog actuator, both switches close...now, to install, then determine the proper wiring connections and solder up. Also noticed outermost switch on 2C was way outta whack, and adjusted to NC...

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1 week later
#29 6 months ago

Have removed, cleaned, checked switches & springs on five of sixteen score reels so far...still no joy. But will persevere...

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#30 6 months ago

broken tab on your reel slot... i have a replacement along with #2 nut and bolt hardware i use to mount them with if you need

#31 6 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

broken tab on your reel slot... i have a replacement along with #2 nut and bolt hardware i use to mount them with if you need

Thanks for the offer -- it snapped off when I pulled the reel...already have NOS on order from PBR.

#32 6 months ago

I think I 'scored' a good one. PBR lists these (D-8755 AS relay ratchets) as not available, as had Marco -- but Monday morning Marco showed them 'IN STOCK', so I ordered two...they are apparently in-the-mail, and are again listed as 'OUT OF STOCK'. Definitely need one for 'Out Of Sight', and one for 'Quick Draw', which is in marginal condition.

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#33 6 months ago
Quoted from DaveB8:

I think I 'scored' a good one. PBR lists these (D-8755 AS relay ratchets) as not available, as had Marco -- but Monday morning Marco showed them 'IN STOCK', so I ordered two...they are apparently in-the-mail, and are again listed as 'OUT OF STOCK'. Definitely need one for 'Out Of Sight', and one for 'Quick Draw', which is in marginal condition.

I always call Steve @ PBR, he has them listed as "OUT OF STOCK" but he has them, just purchased one a couple of weeks ago.

2 months later
#34 4 months ago

It's been collecting dust for two months, as I worked on a Atari Tempest power brick, Audio/Reg board, and monitor for my dentist, who worked on a tooth restoration & crown for me, which is going to be a 'wash' after my insurance's portion of payment. Oh, yeah, plus a week camping vacation. Anyway, received new backglass today from BGResto and it looks great, will install tomorrow. Then back to the electrical gremlins...

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#35 4 months ago
Quoted from DaveB8:

It's been collecting dust for two months, as I worked on a Atari Tempest power brick, Audio/Reg board, and monitor for my dentist, who worked on a tooth restoration & crown for me, which is going to be a 'wash' after my insurance's portion of payment. Oh, yeah, plus a week camping vacation. Anyway, received new backglass today from BGResto and it looks great, will install tomorrow. Then back to the electrical gremlins...[quoted image][quoted image]

Very cool — how long did the BG Resto process take?

#36 4 months ago

11 weeks from order to 'door' - minus one week for my vacation where they held shipment (12 weeks total)...

#37 4 months ago

Installed this afternoon...I DO agree with other posts I've read that their manufacturing process doesn't let full light shine through from even #44 bulbs. I may seek out some high output LEDs that I've read about. But overall, A+. The difference in color is amazing.

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#38 4 months ago

I have a FarOut glass in the mail that uses printed white ink on a clear film, it will be good to contrast the two. Should have it in a week.

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#39 4 months ago

I love the art on Far Out. Keep up the good work bringing back to life!

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