(Topic ID: 188664)

Gottlieb's Diamond Lady not working

By airamcruz

6 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by airamcruz
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

Hello there, I got a Diamond Lady very cheap a few days ago knowing that it was non-working.
When I start the machine all bulbs on the playfield light up, also the lamp on the backglass, a red led flashes in the sound/voice board. There is no sound or voice at all, the display is dead, but the flippers and slingshots coils work.
I wonder if the coils in the pop-bumpers are CPU controlled or not, is that red led flashing on the sound board triying to say something? Also a transistor in the driver board gets damm hot (I think is a n6013)
The CPU board has had the battery problem and the crystal, CPU and resistors around seem affected. I've to check with the oscilloscope.
Is a good idea to unplug the reset board? If I do so the red led on the sound board doesn't light up and the transistor gets hotter

Thanks

#2 6 years ago

Go through the power supply voltages, replace filter caps and mod the grounds before doing anything else. Then you should address the corrosion damage.

(this game is on my want list )

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

(this game is on my want list )

me too!

hope you can get her going again!

1 week later
#4 6 years ago

Hi,

I've been working on this.... Now the system boots, there's a beep sound coming out from the front speakers, and the playfield lights up in attract mode (flashing), the 3 reset banks pop up the targets ok, if left alone a sensual voice yields "Comon' Try me" LOL
If I press the coin switch I get a credit sound... press start button and the diamond lady says something like (deal a hand???) sorry pals, my english and my poker skills are not very good The music starts to play and that`s all. There's no action from any of the coils.
I can get the top display to work "***CARD SHARKS***" followed by 000000000, but the lower display stays off. I'm sure it works because I've seen it sometimes on (while working on the game)
If I press the test button under the PF next to the volume knob I get the expected behaviour, but because I can just see the top display I cannot get the whole information (the important information is shown on the lower screen)
The first thing I want to resolve is this display problem, so I can see what's going on according to this tests

thanks

#5 6 years ago

I've checked the voltages between pin 1 and 18 on the back of the displays and I get a 5,9 VAC on both of them, but only the upper display is working, also checked the continuity between traces in the PCB (expecting some resistance between them) but everything OK (0 ohms)

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from airamcruz:

I'm sure it works because I've seen it sometimes on (while working on the game)

I'm trying to wrap my head around this statement. Intermittent?

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I'm trying to wrap my head around this statement. Intermittent?

Really sorry, I don't speak (or write) english that good. I'm spanish.
I've solved the problem. It was one of the chips on the display board 7417N (Z2), replaced it for a 74LS07N and both displays are working now!!!!

Now I can go deeper into the test mode.

But the transistors in the driver board keep cracking. I don't know where to go now, should I spend 150 GBP (is that 180 USD?) on a new CPU board from mypinballs???

#8 6 years ago

No apology necessary, many times it is difficult to troubleshoot using a text forum.

Quoted from airamcruz:

But the transistors in the driver board keep cracking.

Can you explain this more?

#9 6 years ago

Of course!!!

When I turn the machine with everything connected, the pin boots fine, there's flashing lights, coin switch works, start button works, music starts to play, the 3 bank resets pop out, but there isn't activity from the ejecting ball coil, I think it's because of the "Q" coil (it's open) after 5 minutes, the transistors start to smell, smoke and get hotter and hotter until they crack. This has happened twice, so the driver board is now disconnected.

I ran the memory test and it says it's OK, the switch matrix test says all switchs are open (I can close the ones in the front cabinet), but non in the playfield.

#10 6 years ago

I've seen some missing pins on the molex connector that control the switch matrix and 5V. The battery leakage have must damaged them

I'm gonna re-pin this molex.....fingers crossed

#11 6 years ago

I can't stop thinking about it....

When the previous owner did the ground mod, he did not only the 4 connectors, but also the ground wires from the transformer, so I have 5 bunch of wires to the metal mounting panel of the tranformer. Is it suppossed to be like that? Ive read that in System 1 the ground from the transformer must be isolated with some mica...

#12 6 years ago

Hello guys

Just to let yo know my pinball is now almost working (except bumpers) If I find the time i'll post some photos

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from airamcruz:

I can't stop thinking about it....
When the previous owner did the ground mod, he did not only the 4 connectors, but also the ground wires from the transformer, so I have 5 bunch of wires to the metal mounting panel of the tranformer. Is it suppossed to be like that? Ive read that in System 1 the ground from the transformer must be isolated with some mica...

I believe your question has to do with the supply's power transistor, not transformer
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-ground-mod-confusion-board-to-board-vs-connector

Ground cures list by series System 80/A/B
https://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html#System80

#14 6 years ago

You have to tighten the big oval transistors on the driver board also so they get a good ground, i had one come loose and it caused some issues, not sure if its related to your game as im not familiar with diamond lady.

#15 6 years ago

Hello again

Ground cures done correctly!

Everything works except pop bumpers (not firing but score id switch is manually pressed) it keeps blowing F15, F16 and F17 fuses all the time (but just before fuses blow I can see them working once)

This is the general view of the machine right now
general viewgeneral view

This Q3 gets damn hot if the board is connected (I keep it disconnected)
hot transistor Q3hot transistor Q3

Also one of this transistors gets very hot under the playfield
another hot transistoranother hot transistor

I'm gonna try to change this 2N6057 for a BD649 to see what happens, the man at the shop told me it was similar to a TIP102
PBDB component sidePBDB component side
PBDB solder sidePBDB solder side

Got anothe issue in the driver board, transistor Q18 has the solder joints burnt and there's continuity between collector and emmiter, so I'm gonna change this as well.

Any comments will be appreciated

#16 6 years ago

The under playfield transistors getting hot are most likely shorted, and if you trace the wires back to the driverboard the transistors there will be bad also.

#17 6 years ago

I have changed Q56, Q18, Q15 transistors at the driver board, and also the transistor and IC of eachPBDB, now the 3 pop bumpers will fire on startup and back up. But as soon as game start, stay energized all the time.

I've also checked the dip switches with the test and shows F7 FF FF FF with all dip switches ON (should read FF FF FF FF) and 00 00 00 00 with all dip switches OFF. The manual says this is incorrect, but doesn't tell you what to check or how does this affects the behaviour of the machine.

Dip switched ON should read FF FF FF FFDip switched ON should read FF FF FF FF

Dip switches OFFDip switches OFF

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