(Topic ID: 162773)

Gottlieb wedgehead cabinet paint color?

By Topcard

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Topcard
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    #1 7 years ago

    So I'm repainting a Centigrade 37 and I'm having a hard time finding the right shade for the cabinet. I want to stick to rattle cans so that limits my choices a little. So far Rustoleum Heirloom White and Krylon Ivory have too much of an almond color. I just picked up some rustoleum Blossom White which seems a little too white. I've done a couple of other wedgeheads in the past but can't seem to find what I used. It may have been rustoleum antique white, but i think they quit making that shade. Any suggestions?

    Thanks

    #3 7 years ago
    Quoted from beelzeboob:

    Clay Harrell - the master of EM restorations and repair - suggests Krylon Ivory.
    Here's what he says:
    Use Krylon "Antique White" if you are doing a partial cabinet repaint (like the front of the cabinet) to match a yellowed cabinet finish. Works great on Gottlieb wedgeheads. If doing a complete cabinet repaint, Krylon "Ivory" is probably a better choice (it's less yellow looking).
    And here's the link to the whole document:
    http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#repaint

    Thanks, but I already tried Krylon Ivory and I can't find the Antique White anymore.

    2 weeks later
    #10 7 years ago

    I started with Heirloom white but thought it was a little too almond,so I picked up another rustoleum shade of white to try next week. I wish I took a closer look at your machine at pintastic. There were a bunch of people around it when I went by and I never made it back that way.

    #18 7 years ago

    The Atlantis looks great. I think I've found the right shade with Ben Moore "Easter Lily". I wanted to stick with rattle cans, but I can't find the right shade so I'm going to buy an HPLV gun tomorrow.

    I can tell you that the Heirloom white is definitely on the tan side. I have a Jack's Open and it is substantially whiter than the Heirloom white. I sprayed my whole cabinet with it and then wasn't happy with it and tried Krylon Ivory which was even darker. One good thing came of it; I found that Krylon Ivory is the perfect color for an ElDorado or Gold Strike. I did one once white heirloom white and ironically, it was too white for that particular game.

    #21 7 years ago
    Quoted from Shiny_balls:

    I painted my Royal Flush with this.....
    See the arrow of actual color, not the silly pure white cap.
    Try it but remember, do some tests with clearcoats, some go yellows, depends on how many coats.
    I screwed up with too many clearcoats, big different to without it......I think I'll start all over again.....with same Blossom White and different clearcoat!

    Do you have any photos of the machine with that white before you clear coated it? I bought that color too, but thought it was a little too stark white for my C37. I'm thinking it would work well though for my Joker Poker which has a whiter base.

    #25 7 years ago
    Quoted from Shiny_balls:

    I did 1 or 2 clearcoats to seal the water based splatters before stencil.

    I painted on a sheet metal yesterday......

    Blossom White is little darker than pure white.
    Look at my original, see the 40 years old yellow peeled off? is that clearcoat from the factory? or from the smoke?

    I believe they did clearcoats after stencil works, look at under side rail....

    Some people wanted them looks old but I choose my machine looks as it just rolled out from the factory.....I believe Blossom White is perfectly matched as they painted the cabinets at the factory.
    I really don't know about the C37 or Joker Poker, I have a Super Spin with much fewer plays and it looks the same original white to my Royal Flush. Whites changed over the years....depend on locations.
    A picture of fresh clearcoats with a HVLP spray gun from last September....I'm not sure how many coats...I think 5-6 coats total.
    See the difference with white bed sheet?

    Nine months later....sheet metal vs. 9 months old clearcoats.....with different light angles.... ugh! it changed itself!! More yellow.

    I have already put this in a trash bin!!!!

    Wow, that had to be absolutely heartbreaking. To have it come out so beautiful only to see it yellow....I had heard that Varathane would yellow and that's why it shouldn't be used on a playfield. I had no idea it would happen so fast.

    I would say that was smoke stains on your game. Usually some mean green will tell you quickly. That stuff cuts right into the smoke stains but does very little to the clear coat. I have a Royal Flush at home that is still aimost as white as the day it came out of the factory so I would say it was not prone to yellowing. I see the exact opposite on some wedgeheads like Sky Jump, where they have almost always had their clearcoats turn yellow.

    I think the Blossom White is a good shade for the Royal flush, but still a little too white for some wedgeheads like C37. Below is a picture I took of the different colors. The cabinet is painted Krylon Ivory which I will repaint. Next is the Blossom White, then Heirloom white, then a Ben Moore Shade called Easter Lily that I will probably use. The Heirloom White is darker than it looks in the photo.

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    #27 7 years ago

    Colors are a funny thing. The real colors are much different than the flyer, at least on mine.

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    #28 7 years ago

    Trying to get them just right.

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    #33 7 years ago
    Quoted from pinhead52:

    I just completed a repaint myself. Used Montana Black: Pink Panther, Montana Black: "Yellow", and Rustoleum Heirloom White as the base.

    Very nice. I did my base cabinet color today with the blossom white that Shiny Balls recommended. I was going to do a different shade but failed miserably using the preval air gun system (i guess the paint was too thick). At any rate, I think it will work pretty well and then I'm going to use the Montana kicking yellow and the Good times shade for the Magenta.They're a little different than the ones you chose, but I think they both work. Mine will look a little more like a brand new game, while your's looks more like an original game in excellent shape.

    Below is a photo I took when i had to remove some paint off the front and redo due to runs. I post it because the color underneath is Krylon Ivory and it really shows how almond that shade is. Perfect though for ElDorado or GoldStrike.

    IMG_2388_(resized).JPGIMG_2388_(resized).JPG

    #35 7 years ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    Preval needs really thin paint. REALLY thin. It is also not a good solution for painting large areas and multiple coats such as the base coat on the cab. I use them with automotive paint, but only with the stencil colors because they cover a small area and only one coat. For the base coat you really need an HVLP or just stick to rattle cans.

    Yeah, I was going to go the HPLV route and then realized my compressor wasn't large enough to perform adequately-. I saw the Preval system in the store and bought it on impulse. I always wanted to try it out, but it was a lesson learned. As you said, it would be good for hard to find stencil colors where a custom match is required.

    Quoted from gearheaddropping:I used heirloom white for my Atlantis as the base coat with black speckles.

    #36 7 years ago
    Quoted from gearheaddropping:

    I used heirloom white for my Atlantis as the base coat with black speckles.

    It looks very nice. Are you happy you chose the Heirloom White?

    #43 7 years ago

    I've used Krylon Crystal clear in the past with good results. It supposed to be non yellowing. Below is a machine I did roughly three years ago and it still looks good. Not sure if I did gloss or satin, I seem to have cans of both. I experiment with so many things that if I don't write it down I lose track. That's one of the great things about these threads, they make a great point of reference.

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    #44 7 years ago
    Quoted from Shiny_balls:

    Thanks Topcard, nobody's perfect.....lessons learned
    I still have the homemade stencils.... one day, I'll try again with flat paints for stencils and less coats of a better semi gloss crystal clear....I'm sure 2nd attempt will be much better than first one.
    I'm looking at the picture of my very first Gottlieb EM cabinet and thoughts about it a lot....tell you what....I'm pretty sure they used flat paints for base and stencils because it was easy to spray, thinner, lightweight, less messy and dry fast....after the stencil, a final coat of a more glosser clear finish to seal it.
    Just one coat of oil based clear turns more yellow as it ages, even more with smokers

    Flat paints are very thin, you almost couldn't feel the raised stencil paint edges.
    semi gloss is thicker, gloss is more thicker.
    I painted red lobster gloss and flat black for stencils, I felt the difference between gloss and flat raised edges, I had to sand lightly between the clear coats to removed blurred edges....on the red ones, not black....I can see why they don't want to sand it....cost money!!
    A flyer brochure for you....like I said, some people go with old looks and some go with new.

    I had a similar experience with stencils with the Astro I just posted a pick of. I used satin for the base and the orange, but for some reason I could only find the black in gloss. Sure enough, the edges of the gloss black are raised but not the orange. I din't sand it, because i was afraid I would screw up the finish, so I just decided to live with it. It's one of those things the average person wouldn't notice but I always will.

    #46 7 years ago
    Quoted from gearheaddropping:

    Yes, happy with the basecoat. I could have done a better job on the green match, but its all a learning experience.

    Still looks good. That green is tough to match. I'm trying to find a little just to use for touch up on my Atlantis. When it comes to touch up, it looks worse than leaving it if you can't match it almost exactly.

    #47 7 years ago
    Quoted from beelzeboob:

    Here's my Jacks Open cabinet painted with Heirloom White. It looks plenty white in this picture, but sometimes it has more of an ivory look. It all depends on the lighting. IMO, anything more white would look a little unnatural.

    Now that drives me nuts. Looking at that photo it looks nice and white, but I had my cabinet done and it seemed to tan so I redid it. Maybe I should never have looked at it outside on a sunny day! I may regret going with the blossom white, we will see, but I've already painted it three times, I'm not doing it again.The funny thing is, I believe the Astro I did I used Heirloom white and was happy with it. Makes me wonder if I got a bad batch this last time.

    2 months later
    #51 7 years ago

    Here's a few pictures of the completed machine. I am actually very happy with the Blossom White from rustoleum.

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    10 months later
    #55 6 years ago

    Blossom white is definitely whiter than Heirloom white.

    7 months later
    #73 6 years ago

    Black laquer works good for speckles or spatter. Webbing is a whole other story.

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