Quoted from PinballAir:2 years later, i still enjoy the game.
There is another volcano club thread as well.
Enjoy
Count me in here too... where is the other thread?
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Quoted from PinballAir:2 years later, i still enjoy the game.
There is another volcano club thread as well.
Enjoy
Count me in here too... where is the other thread?
Quoted from Silverballbrain:Hey everyone! Looking for help again. Still trying to figure out how to reduce the heat coming from the displays. The green score coverings are actually melting away on the backglass.
All five displays are doing this?? Very abnormal. Can you post a photo of the melting? I have never seen that before.
Mine are cool/cold to the touch even while operating on a warm day. No idea why they would be that hot, and frankly, do not understand how they could run so hot and not burn out. Can you take temps with an IR probe to isolate the heat source... i.e. section of board, glass, chip, etc?
Could there be something else in the head that is getting hot and trapping the heat inside? Can you run with the head open and examine more closely to verify the heat source?
Volcano's cabinetry is vented from top to bottom. There are slots on the underside of the machine. Under the wooden power board in the main cabinet under the playfield there is an airspace. Below this airspace are slots in the bottom of the cabinet The transformers run warm and draw air in through these slots, which travels under the playfield through to the bottom of the head before being drawn out the metal vents on the top rear of the head. Is air able to get to these vents? You don't have stuff piled up under the machine? The machine is on legs, not sitting flat on its base on a table or something? You don't have a towel, draperies, or some other obstructions blocking the air vents?
Quoted from Silverballbrain:Curious if the metallic grounding wire is the problem as there is none as expected inside the interior of the playfield cabinet (the kind that goes behind the leg plates, coin opening door and connects to that green and yellow wire inside the playfield cabinet).
That is very doubtful. This is the safety ground. It is meant to protect ... so if something goes wrong electrically and if voltage touches the coin door, this ground will help prevent a possible electrocution situation.
Quoted from Silverballbrain:When I purchased volcano, the operator manual included was a photocopy of the original and missing several pages and the schematics...
I bought my manual from eBay but Pinball Resource sells them too. There is a copyright issue that Gottlieb enforces and the only PDF I saw online was missing more than half of the schematics. While you wait, you may have better luck finding a PDF online for a Black Hole or Haunted House. Both are system 80 and the schematics are virtually identical.
I need to make a new subway cover because mine had a boogered top edge catching the ball that I had to cut away. The previous owner used small nails to try to hold it down making it worse. Cutting the bad parts away was the only real improvement. It's a lot better, but the metal is stretched and the ball still gets caught here. There's not enough left to keep cutting away so the only real solution is to make a whole new cover.
Can somebody remove and carefully trace their subway cover with a fine pencil, and mail the paper tracing to me? I know it's a lot of work to remove and it's a lot to ask somebody. To thank and compensate you for the work of tracing & mailing, I will make an extra metal cover and mail it to you. PM me if interested.
If nobody is willing to do that, maybe a photo will help enough. A similar shot like the one below might provide enough information, but a tracing would be best. I need to see the whole top edge between the top two holes.
I've ordered stainless steel 0.007" thick, which is the same material and thickness as the original. I plan to use a small flat grinding disc wheel to make the cuts. I think a metal shear or snips would likely distort the edges too much. I purchased enough stainless to make 100 subway covers, so I'm not worried about experimenting to figure this out. Hey, if it turns out well... if anyone needs a new subway cover... just sayin'.
This is the edge I had to cut away.
Added 19 months ago:Correction: 0.006" thick stainless, not 0.007" as previously posted.
Added 19 months ago:I ended up figuring this out and making two new flaps. Details and photos posted in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fwiw-gottlieb-volcano-needs-a-new-subway-flap
Added 14 months ago:Type 302 stainless steel
Quoted from Silverballbrain:Never owned or used an Infrared probe before
They are less than $20 on Amazon. "IR temperature gun"
You point it at something and it tells you the temperature. It's a very cheap way to get fairly accurate temperature readings on a pinpoint.
I would not use the machine until you figure this out. You already have damage on the transparent ink and I don't even know how your displays have survived so far.
Quoted from Silverballbrain:The display are hot to begin with. I am concern some of them may not being receiving electricity properly
Again, all FIVE or just some?
Quoted from Biffbar:Try some fresh double sided adhesive foam tape between the glass display and the circuit board. This is a fairly common problem. From the pictures it looks like at least two of the displays are no longer sitting flat against the circuit boards. The display may lean down and rub against the tinted display windows if the old double sided adhesive tape has dried out.
I think you missed his original post; he's talking about extreme heat melting the green tint.
Quoted from Silverballbrain:...Still trying to figure out how to reduce the heat coming from the displays. The green score coverings are actually melting away on the backglass...
If that's the case, double stick tape is not going to hold for long, which is probably why they are leaning in the first place.
My displays don't get warm, let alone hot enough to melt the tint.
I don't even understand what mechanism would cause a Futaba VFD to cook without quickly burning itself out. The OP is not being very communicative and I suspect the heat must be coming from someplace other than the actual displays.
Quoted from Redfive05:I've seen the UDN6118A on a display run so hot it literally caused the paint to peel off the backglass on a Haunted House once. You could see the chip on the display board clearly while playing, and just in that spot. But the funny thing was the display worked perfectly. I wouldn't be surprised if this was the case here too.
Until the OP responds, we're just speculating, but that is interesting. Would seem weird if he has multiple displays with this issue, but it's the only thing that makes sense until the OP investigates and reports back. Although that does not explain why he's only seeing damage to the tint, unless the tint is a lot more susceptible to heat than the paint.
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