(Topic ID: 130626)
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Quoted from Leosac:I assume these are recent Touchdown pictures. Any other words of wisdom on this machine?
They're from a pin I'm currently working on. Yes, some of those photos are from before I started cleaning it up.
If yours was routed, be prepared to find stripped post holes, or the wrong posts/screws. The ball really bangs around the playfield pretty hard with all the pops, kickers, and slingshots. You'll probably have to fill and drill the post holes. especially the ones for the rollover lanes nearest the pop bumpers. When you're done, make sure to tighten the posts so that they don't wiggle, or you'll end up with the same problem again later.
Also, because the ball does bang around a lot, I'd recommend PETG washers to protect the plastics. Pinballlife carries them.
If your inlanes aren't worn front he kickout holes, put down mylar immediately (if you don't plan on clear coating). Same goes for the pop bumpers.
But, since this is a single-level game with no ramps, it's fairly easy to strip down and shop out.
One thing I did in on the light board that wasn't factory was replace some of the bulbs with blinker bulbs (mostly for the game title) to make the backglass more interesting when in attract mode. However, if you want to keep it completely original, no blinker bulbs were used--just #44/#47.
It might be there to bypass one of the vertical socketed fuse holders, but you would have to follow the wiring and schematics to determine that. Those fuse holders sometimes cause problems, so sometimes they are bypassed with a regular fuse holder instead of being replaced.
For some eras of machines there are recommended modifications to add additional fuses to certain things, but System 80 games don't have a recommendation like this listed. But, that doesn't discount the possibility that someone just did it on their own to try to troubleshoot a specific problem for some reason.
Quoted from Leosac:As I've learned, "enemy of good is better". I leave that fuse alone and just stick with those prescribed in your note. Thanks again.
If it does turn out to be a replacement for a vertical socket, it shouldn't be too hard to change it back. Parts should be available from PBResource, among other places.
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