New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 204984)

Gottlieb Top Score barely powering on


By cperro

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 109 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by D-Gottlieb
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 22 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

plastic-topscore (resized).JPG
190px-GTB_ball_count_unit_ball_0_wiper_side (resized).JPG
Pinball (resized).png
ts_mirror crop (resized).jpg
ts_cam (6) (resized).jpg
ts_board1 (resized).jpg
ts_ball5 (5) (resized).jpg
ts_ball4(4) (resized).jpg
ts_ball3 (3) (resized).jpg
ts_ball2 (2) (resized).jpg
ts_ball1 (1) (resized).jpg
Pinball (resized).png
IMG_0808 (resized).JPG
IMG_0806 (resized).JPG
IMG_0805 (resized).JPG
Top Score Add Player Unit (resized).jpg

There are 109 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 2 years ago

Hi all,

I just received my first pinball machine and it's a top score (1975) that's not currently in working condition
To give you a heads up I'm a novice but trying to learn. Trying to make this my hobbie project. I also do not
know much history of the machine. I'm pretty sure the playfield lights have been replaced though, as well as
the fuse hub (maybe fuses too).

Currently when I hit the power switch at the bottom of the machine all I get are most of the backbox lights
turning on as well as the coin lights (except player 2 lights). The tilt light is also on. I don't hear see/hear
any motors or steppers doing anything, just the typical electrical buzzing of electronics.

So far I have tested the fuses with a multimeter and they seem to be in fine. I think I found the bounce switch
and I did a continuity test on that and its closed which it should be according to the schematics (I think).

I'm new to reading schematics and may be getting a bit ahead of myself but it looks like the tilt issue needs to be
solved before I can get the playfield lights to turn on according to the schematics.

I was wondering if I should be getting any signs of life from the motors/steppers even though I have a tilt issue
somewhere? Or is the tilt light on because I likely have other problems that need to be solved first? Or perhaps
some power issue?

Any help with getting some more signs of life my pinball machine would be great! If I haven't given enough
information feel free to ask more questions. I've probably left some important things out since I'm still new
to this.

Thanks!

#2 2 years ago

Off the top of my head check the fuses with a meter. Also make sure there is a credit and hit the start button on the coin door.

#3 2 years ago

Gottliebs starting in tilt is 100% normally on initial power on. It's just a funny quirk about gottlieb ems.

If you put credits on the machine and press the start button the machine should spring to life. If not there might be an issue with the path of power to the S relay, so start there.

#5 2 years ago

I have checked the fuses by doing a continuity check with a DMM. There are either 6 or 9 credits according to the backbox display (small semicircle display bottom right). Since I'm a new to this and just want to double check, the start button is the button on the coin door right? If so I did press that as well and nothing changed.

The following link is to a zip file with the schematics: guess I can't post links yet, if you google "top score pinball schematics" it's one of the first couple of links.

Like I said previously I'm a new to this. So the following questions may be dumb.

I'm just trying to figure out the path to relay S when the game is started so if you could let me know that I'm following the schematics properly for the S relay that would be great. From the 15 amp fuse, it would go to the bounce switch (needs to be closed), to the anti-cheat switch (closed), motor 2B (closed), motor 1c (closed), and then it splits so I get a bit more confused. I'm guessing #1 coin shoot and then to S relay?

For testing the power to this relay, do you mean to check the actual voltage when with it powered on? If so, typically I thought there would be a grounding braid but I don't see one on this machine. If there isn't one where would be the next best place to ground for testing voltage? Or did you want me to just do a continuity test?

Thanks the for replies!

#6 2 years ago

Are there credits showing on the half-moon display in the backglass? If not pressing the start button will do nothing.

#7 2 years ago

Yes there are credits on it, either 6 or 9, can't remember exactly how many but there are definitely credits on the display.

One thing I forgot to note, one of the score reels is currently taken apart, it came like that when I got it. I don't think there is anything wrong with it but I just have to get around (figure out) how to put it back together, would that prevent the beginning of the start up sequence? To be specific it is the player 2 score wheel for the 10000 digit.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

One thing I forgot to note, one of the score reels is currently taken apart, it came like that when I got it. I don't think there is anything wrong with it but I just have to get around (figure out) how to put it back together, would that prevent the beginning of the start up sequence?

Yes it could, because the score reels getting to zero is part of the startup sequence. Do at least some of the other score reels reset to zero? It would be possible to configure the switches on that score reel to make the startup sequence think it's on zero.

#9 2 years ago

Currently none of the score reels do anything, or sound like they are trying to do anything, I may be able to put it back together just by looking at the player 1 reel for the same digit, for now it may be easier to rig it like you say though. Also, all the score reels are currently at zero, if I manually moved one off of zero and then turned on the machine would that be a good test to see if reels reset to zero again?

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

if I manually moved one off of zero and then turned on the machine would that be a good test to see if reels reset to zero again?

Yes, please do that. Actually I'd move most or all off zero.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

I'm just trying to figure out the path to relay S when the game is started so if you could let me know that I'm following the schematics properly for the S relay that would be great. From the 15 amp fuse, it would go to the bounce switch (needs to be closed), to the anti-cheat switch (closed), motor 2B (closed), motor 1c (closed), and then it splits so I get a bit more confused. I'm guessing #1 coin shoot and then to S relay?
For testing the power to this relay, do you mean to check the actual voltage when with it powered on? If so, typically I thought there would be a grounding braid but I don't see one on this machine. If there isn't one where would be the next best place to ground for testing voltage? Or did you want me to just do a continuity test?
Thanks the for replies!

Here's the schematic for the S relay

Top Score S Relay (resized).jpg

If I understand correctly, nothing happens when you hit the replay button on the front of the cabinet. That circuit is across the top of the schematic above. With the power off, clip one probe of your DMM to the Red wire tied to the 15 Amp fuse. Then with the other probe, measure the resistance at each point on the red circuit leading away from the transformer and towards the S relay. You should get close to zero ohms after each switch (bounce switch, anti-cheat switch, Motor 2B switch, etc.) until you reach the replay button. Put the probe on the BR (brown) wire on the replay button switch and push in the button. You should get close to zero ohms there too. Work your way back to the BL-WH (blue-white) wire on the S relay to verify that you can get a closed circuit from the fuse to the S relay. Since you're not getting the S relay to fire chances are good that either one of the normally closed switches is open, or that one of the normally open switches won't close.

There is also a path to the S relay through the coin chute switches. That's another way to start the game if there are no credits on the credit unit.

/Mark

#12 2 years ago

Before you even get the meter out do a quick check and manually operate the S Relay to see if it locks in and starts the motor. If it does lock in then you have easily proved:

1. There is power
2. Fuse
3. Bounce switch
4. The Anti-cheat switch and Motor 2B switch is good.
5. The S coil is good

and that takes all of 1 second

I rarely use a meter on an EM...using a jumper to bypass switches and manually operating relays is much more efficient.

Be aware that most multi-meter continuity checks will beep when the resistance is below a certain threshold (e.g. IRC 40 ohms for some Flukes) so you have to be careful that you are not checking continuity back through the transformer winding. Measure ohms as MarkG suggested.

#13 2 years ago

woz : I'm a bit confused about manually operating the S relay. Do you want me to just have a jumper going from like the fuse to the S relay? Or should I jumper it from another location besides the fuse? Also, how does this prove the anti-cheat switch and motor 2b are good if I'm bypassing their switches? Sorry about all the questions, still quite new to this.

Thanks for the tip about the continuity check and measuring resistance. I'll make sure to measure resistance from now on.

I'll be doing these tests this evening so I'll let you all know how they go then.

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from woz:

Before you even get the meter out do a quick check and manually operate the S Relay to see if it locks in and starts the motor.

I agree that activating the relay (by manually pushing in the armature that moves the switches the way the relay would) would be a quick and effective check if you're comfortable working on game with the power on. If you're not comfortable with that yet then the meter is an alternative.

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

I agree that activating the relay (by manually pushing in the armature that moves the switches the way the relay would) would be a quick and effective check if you're comfortable working on game with the power on. If you're not comfortable with that yet then the meter is an alternative.

All coils are wired in on one side to the transformer. That's the black wire. The other wire on each coil goes thru a series of switches to get to ground and complete the circuit. These are detailed in the schematic. A meter is not going to tell you much.

#16 2 years ago

You need some basics. Until you read Clays guide a few pointers.
Big voltage in some relays/switches. Get a wooden stick to touch/activate things.
Put a quarter in it or manually activate the front-door switch (the wire the quarter would drop on), does it rack up another game?
Keep that door open and push the start switch while watching it from the rear. Any sparks at the button or in the bottom units?

#17 2 years ago

Done some things, here is an update.

howardr I rotated one of the score reels for player 1 and turned on the machine, nothing happened.

markg woz I put a jumper connecting the wire connected to the fuse to the start relay. When I turned on the machine, the start relay worked and the motor moved a step. I tried to repeat this and the start relay worked again but the motor did not step/rotate after that. Is this a problem or did the one step it took already move it in the position it needed to be in. This is good that power is making it past the fuse though! I'm going to follow markg suggestion now and go through each switch to along the path to see which one is stopping the start relay from energizing in the normal circuit.

phil-lee Yes I definitely need get through Clay's guide. So far I've only went through Part 1 and some of Part 2.

#18 2 years ago

Hi again,

I just tried to move the alligator clip starting point along the path of the circuit and from the looks of it, the bounce switch must not be closed. I'm guessing either it needs to be cleaned or just slightly open? I leaning more towards it being slightly open since when I tap the top part of the switch with my finger I think I hear it hit the other leaf. I measured the resistance across the switch and it was between 2 and 3 Ohms, for this type of stuff I don't
know if that's a lot or not, the continuity check on my multimeter sounded off but like you guys said earlier it likely has too high of a threshold.

phil-lee I tried to manually active the front door switch and nothing happened, I also haven't seen any sparks yet.

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

Hi again,
I just tried to move the alligator clip starting point along the path of the circuit and from the looks of it, the bounce switch must not be closed. I'm guessing either it needs to be cleaned or just slightly open? I leaning more towards it being slightly open since when I tap the top part of the switch with my finger I think I hear it hit the other leaf. I measured the resistance across the switch and it was between 2 and 3 Ohms, for this type of stuff I don't
know if that's a lot or not, the continuity check on my multimeter sounded off but like you guys said earlier it likely has too high of a threshold.
phil-lee I tried to manually active the front door switch and nothing happened, I also haven't seen any sparks yet.

The anti-cheat switch should be normally closed. Clean it, and pinch it so that it makes good contact. For home use, you can jumper it out. My money was on that switch all along. I've had a few games where this was the culprit.

#20 2 years ago

jrpinball What would be the safest way to clean the contacts? I was reading on Clay's pinball repair page and he mentioned filing but at the same time he recommends against it if you've never done it before.

#21 2 years ago

Congratulations on Top Score. I played that machine in my youth and wound up owning it. A nail file will work in a pinch. Read Clay's guide. Very good indeed. The score motor should be free to turn by hand. Counter clockwise. Power off. It seems that someone might have worked on this machine before you got it. I am referring to the disassembled score reel. Those are delicate, but they slide right out after gently bending the plastic tab on the bottom of each. Check for other repairs that may have been attempted. It's a great game.

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

jrpinball What would be the safest way to clean the contacts? I was reading on Clay's pinball repair page and he mentioned filing but at the same time he recommends against it if you've never done it before.

You can use an emery board in a pinch, but after using it, run a strip of business card-like paper through the points while holding a little pressure on the switch. If you have nothing abrasive, just running the business card strip through the switch several times may do the trick.
The Pinball Resource sells a contact cleaning strip called a Flex Stone. If you place an order there for parts, be sure to get a couple of these.

#23 2 years ago

Currently dont have a nail file but i tried the business card alone with no luck i think there is actually a space between them. Would tightening the screws on the leaf switch help bring them closer?

#24 2 years ago

Just clip them together until you buy a switch adjuster.

#25 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

Currently dont have a nail file but i tried the business card alone with no luck i think there is actually a space between them. Would tightening the screws on the leaf switch help bring them closer?

The screws should be snug already, but that's not how the contacts are adjusted. As was said above, just jumper out that switch if it appears to be open.

#26 2 years ago

dr_nybble just bypassed for now, will deal with in the future.

now that the bounce switch is bypassed I'm having some other things turn on which are the game over relay and the 1st player ball relay, the start relay still isnt coming on so there must be something besides the bounce switch that is not closed, also the motor now continuously rotates. So this is definitely progress, I'll test the other switches along the path to the start relay next.

#27 2 years ago

Does this game have a ball count unit? Could be that it's stuck, and can't home. Can you see a balls to play number on the backglass?

#28 2 years ago

The motor will spin until the score reads zero and the proper contacts at the reels are closed. You should be able to grab a manual the same way you got the schematics. Indispensable.

#29 2 years ago

jrpinball No there is no ball count that I can find

d-gottlieb Yes I have the manual as well. It describes the start up sequence in a bit of detail. One thing it says is that the motor should not be started until the start relay is powered. However my motor is already continuously running even though the start relay hasn't been powered. Must be another issue I have somewhere else in the machine I guess.

#30 2 years ago

jrpinball I was wrong there is a ball in play display but none are lit up.

#31 2 years ago

There are several switches that will run the motor when closed. Refer to the schematic and try to narrow it down.
If you don't have one, get one from Pinball Resource.

#32 2 years ago

Pic below shows the switches that operate the motor. First check to see which of the relays is pulled in. If no relays are obviously operated then you will have to check the individual switches.

Capture (resized).JPG

#33 2 years ago

Thanks. None of those relays are powered on. Only V (Game over relay) and U (1st ball relay). So that would mean one of the switches are closed when they aren't supposed to be? If so, does that mean it would need to be adjusted?

#34 2 years ago

I would check the AX relay as it is sensitive to adjustments and is the main relay regarding the reset sequence.

#35 2 years ago

d-gottlieb I think you were right about the AX relay. It seems like some of the switches need some adjusting, I think the leafs are quite out of alignment right now.

If I manually activate the AX relay with my hand the long leafs on the last switch actually fall out of the slot and then the leaf switches move and won't fall back in unless I realign them. Does the AX relay activate the same way as another since I noticed there are two coils and I noticed the AX reset in the schematics as well.

#36 2 years ago

I think I misunderstood how the AX works. Let me know if what I'm about to say is correct. When the AX relay is energized, the plate is pulled in and the bottom clip holds the relay in place. When AX reset is energized, the clip is released and the plate moves outward again. If this is true, I think a lot of my issues may come down to the spring at the top of the relay being too loose.

So I was wondering where most people get their pinball machine parts from as well? I saw a few sites which include pinball life, marco, pinball resource. So far I bought from pinball medic to get a switch adjuster but that is all.

#37 2 years ago

Before ordering parts I'd watch a video on how to adjust the AX relay. If the plate seems sluggish, it can sometimes mean that the blades aren't putting enough pressure on the plate to move it back into position. I had the same issue on the bx relay of one of my games and a little switch adjusting fixed it.

I recommend trying what this guy says first. (relevant part starts at about the 3 minute mark)

#38 2 years ago

Thanks! For mine, currently when the clip is released there is no travel for the plate so it's a bit more extreme than what was in the video but I'll definitely give that a try first.

#39 2 years ago

It is a tricky thing to adjust. My take is to first adjust the interlocking tabs or clips for proper, smooth action and then adjust the leaves. There is not much travel at all so it is like micro surgery to get it right.

#40 2 years ago

Hey there cperro congrats on the Top Score its a great game. I have one if you need and pictures of anything. Personally I'd be reassembling the disassembled score reel and making sure they all reset to zero, until they do the motor will keep on spinning.

You'll see a description of the player unit cam line up with a little in the last page of the manual. picture show 6 cams. This unit is in the back box, bottom right corner. If look at the top right corner of the unit there is a screw, when removed the whole unit tilts down and lets you inspect the cam switches.
In operating instructions step five describes score unit and player reset sequence. Read this, find the P3 and P4 switch stacks in the unit and on the schematic. Find the P5A ad P5B switches in the player unit and on the schematic.

The motor itself tilts up as well. the side closest to the wall of the cabinet can be released by removing a few clips. Tilt it up lets you inspect the switches. My motor 2B switch plastic spacer had broken off, drove me nuts until I tilted the motor.

Inspect the whole thing for loose wires. My top score hadn't run in years, it took a few weeks of inspecting, cleaning, adjusting before it came to life. Take your time, fix only the obvious. Get a real bright clamp light.
Good luck, most fun ever!

DSCF0531 (resized).JPG

DSCF0574 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#41 2 years ago

Thanks willbeem ! I've just had some time now that the I'm on break for the holidays.

I've been fiddling with it today now that I got a leaf adjuster and my AX relay was all messed up.
I think I fixed it for the most part, probably could use a bit more tuning but it was causing the issue
where the motor was continuously spinning. My new issue now seems to maybe have something to do
with the score reel though. Here is what's happening at the moment:

1) Power on - U + Q relays energize, backbox lights come on (including tilt), also coin lights turn on, no playfield lights
2) I insert coin in player 1 - Q denergizes, S energizes, R energizes, AX energizes
- The motor begins to move a bit
- Player 2 light turns off, S denergizes, P2 score lights turn off, sometimes tilt turns off as well
- the score does not reset on any of the reels, none of the score reels move.

According to the operating instructions, once AX is energized, the score units should reset but nothing occurs. First I was
wondering if the S relay should stay energized while the game is on? I'm thinking the S relay is suppose to turn off since
the motor is moving so some of those switches will open along the start sequence path. Also, in the operating instructions
it says U and Q relays de-energize when AX is operating but I only have Q to de-energize so could this be a related issue?

willbeem I'll check out the backbox player unit cam next. Currently I think 2 of my score reels are sticking a little so I'll
probably have to clean them to get them working properly. Hopefully, no broken parts.

I've been looking at the schematics for the coils and I am a little confused of the pathway the score reel coils are energized
i.e. : The add 1st "Tens" unit. Could someone tell/show me the pathway for that, just doesn't seem to make sense to me
at the moment. Thanks.

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

I am a little confused of the pathway the score reel coils are energized
i.e. : The add 1st "Tens" unit. Could someone tell/show me the pathway for that, just doesn't seem to make sense to me

My copy of the schematic has a paper fold that makes it hard to see, but here's the circuit that resets the 1st Tens unit. There's a separate circuit to add 10 points.

Pinball (resized).png

#43 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

Could someone tell/show me the pathway for that, just doesn't seem to make sense to me at the moment. Thanks.

HowardR's schematic above highlights the reset path in red for the 1st player's 10 point score reel. At the far right the Motor 1A switch generates 5 pulses each time the score motor turns 120 degrees. Those pulses then fan out to a separate switch on the Player Unit (e.g. P3A on the highlighted path) for each score reel. From the Player Unit the reset path runs through the Runout switch on each score reel which opens when the score reel shows a zero to keep the score reel from advancing further even though there may be more pulses from the Motor 1A switch.

The score motor should keep running during reset until all of the score reels show zero. The Player unit steps through the various score reels to keep them all from resetting at the same time. And each score reel runs until it's own Runout switch opens. Once reset is complete, the switches on the Player unit won't close again so it's the paths through the L, M and N relays that advance the score reels for points earned during the game.

/Mark

#44 2 years ago

Okay thanks for the replies!

howardr - I somehow missed that pathway when I was reading it, must have been looking at the schematics too late at night...thanks for pointing it out

MarkG - So currently, the motor only rotates a little bit, no more than 120 degrees (I have to double check the amount) until it stops and nothing else happens, about the same time S de-energizes. Since AX is energized the whole time at this point I'm guessing that should keep the motor circuit closed and moving so maybe that switch needs to be cleaned on the AX relay. Does that make sense?

Thanks again!

#45 2 years ago

From what I can see on the schematics, S should de-energize once when 2b opens, which happens on the last part of the motors 120 degree rotation, so that's working as intended. And yes it looks like the AX relay should keep the score motor turning. Keep fine tuning that AX relay, if you haven't already it might not be a bad idea to clean the switches as well. They can be adjusted properly, but if they're too dirty no amount of adjusting will fix it.

#46 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

So currently, the motor only rotates a little bit, no more than 120 degrees (I have to double check the amount) until it stops and nothing else happens, about the same time S de-energizes. Since AX is energized the whole time at this point I'm guessing that should keep the motor circuit closed and moving so maybe that switch needs to be cleaned on the AX relay. Does that make sense?
Thanks again!

Top Score Score Motor (resized).jpg

The S relay switch probably gets the score motor started, and the Motor 1C switch keeps it running through the 120 degree cycle. The switch on the AX relay is the one that should keep the score motor running through several 120 degree cycles until reset is completed. The AX relay switch is a Normally Open switch that connects the Yellow-Red wire to the Red-White wire (which isn't labeled on the schematic above).

The AX relay is an interlock relay meaning that it has two coils. One coil (the AX coil) trips briefly at the start of a new game to start the reset sequence, but it's the mechanical interlock that holds the armature and switches in the tripped position. The other coil (the AX Reset coil) should fire once the reset sequence has completed which would release the mechanical interlock and allow the armature and switches to relax and the score motor to stop.

If your AX interlock relay is still tripped when the motor stops, then the AX relay switch is the likely culprit. If the AX Reset coil fires before the motor stops then we need to understand why it fires before reset completes.

#47 2 years ago

MarkG kingofkoopas HowardR willbeem - The AX switch which makes the motor run was the culprit, I fixed it up and now
the motor continuously runs, however, nothing happens in terms of the score reel though.

I looked at the player cam and the switches P3 switches in question do seem to be open but is something in the cam is suppose to close them?
The player cam switches seem to be in good condition as well. The cam itself has done nothing so far.

So currently I don't think I understand how the cam works and how the P3A/B/C...etc switches close to reset the score reels,
could someone explain? Or is there something else that is likely the culprit? I was looking at the schematics and there
don't seem to be many switches along the path to the score reel coils,for the P1 tens unit there is only motor 1A, P3A and 1st "tens" runout.
Since the motor is running I'm thinking the motor 1A switch should be closing (unless dirty), as willbeem suggested I flipped up the motor
and nothing immediately stands out near the 1A switches.

Thanks!

#48 2 years ago
Quoted from cperro:

The cam itself has done nothing so far. So currently I don't think I understand how the cam works and how the P3A/B/C...etc switches close to reset the score reels, could someone explain?

Generally speaking the Player Unit is just a stepper with a set of cams, similar to those on a score motor. Where the score motor smoothly turns the cams to open and close switches that follow the cam profiles, the Player Unit takes discreet steps. Each step needs to accomplish something (like reset a few score reels) before the Player Unit steps to the next position. Since your Player Unit isn't stepping it's understandable why the score reels aren't changing - the Player Unit hasn't reached those steps yet.

If you want to experiment, you could try to advance the Player Unit manually (push in the solenoid plunger and let it release on its own to advance the cam) to see what the various positions do.

Either way we need to suss out why the Player unit isn't advancing. Here are a few switches to try in the reset path starting with the AX relay.

Top Score Add Player Unit (resized).jpg

#49 2 years ago

Hi everyone,

Made a lot of progress today, most of the issues seem to be around the AX and O relay switches. I now have the game reset the score reels and power on the playfield/playfield lights (mostly). A ball ejects to the plunger from the outhole and I can play a bit. Points rack up when I play as well so that's great.

Currently I have infinite plays (keeps spitting out the ball after it goes in the outhole) so I have to check what's going on there. I have a couple of other minor issues (i.e. replay display on backbox is messed up, it seems to think 5 is actually zero replays, have to check a couple playfield lights, 2nd player score reel actually racked up points once for some reason while playing as the 1st player). I'll check into these things tomorrow most likely.

I was also wondering, is there only suppose to be one ball in the machine at once, or should there be more? I didn't know if there was some sort of bonus multiple balls type thing. When I bought the machine it came with 2 balls.

Thanks!

#50 2 years ago

Also, I'm a bit confused on how the replay wheel works (as stated above it thinks 5 is zero). Could someone explain how it works and how to manually add credits to it properly (don't know if I was doing it properly adding credits when I played around with it)? Thanks!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 63.29
Cabinet - Other
Pinball-Mods.com
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 400.00
Boards
Great American Pinball
$ 3.00
Cabinet Parts
BK Pinball
$ 3.50
Various Other Swag
UpKick Pinball
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 5,899.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
$ 27.99
$ 11.95
$ 149.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 999.00
$ 4.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
$ 37.00
Cabinet - Other
Cento Creations
From: $ 15.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Meph's Mods
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
$ 66.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 125.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Sparky Pinball
$ 8.95
$ 299.00
Displays
Boston Pinball Company
From: $ 20.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 10.95
Apparel - Unisex
Pinball Wheezer
$ 40.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Metalhead Pinball
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 7.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Z
$ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
There are 109 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside