Noooooo, it just has some design flaws, nothing that can't be fixed. When Gottlieb made these babies, I doubt they thought they'd still be running now lol. Fixing the grounding does wonders on the 80B's.

Strongly disagree....

Like the previous poster mentioned, it's all dealing w/ grounding issues. I'm assuming we're talking about Genesis? I find that particular pin is the most temperamental out of that era. At least, in my own experience.

+1

Those machines CAN be very reliable

They are definitely a tinkerer's machine. Someone gave me a Raven because they couldn't get it running. I did the cab mods and upgraded the daughter board and it works like a champ with the exception of no game music. I have about 6 hours of total work on it and about $50 in parts. Not bad for a 28 year old machine.

I have a Hollywood heat that makes me pull my hair out. Ground Mods done, PS rebuilt, SB re-flowed and new sound pot and still no sound.

I can't complain

My HH has been a tank. I'm building the Goonies machine from an HH as well. I'm expecting to have a very solid pin when that's done.

I've got a very reliable hollywood heat. Ground mods all completed and daughter card replaced on MPU board. No issues since.

Huhh...

SECOND...you have to fix a connector J1 on MPU...voltage difference (from 5,4V to 4,3V) and(or)
J1 on the MPU ( poor, weak contact, oxidation...broken pin IN connector...etc, etc )

But.....FIRST - "MUST" replace (hidden...on your picture ) trim pot for propper (and stabile) adjustment
"+5V " ( it's ok from 5,0V to 5,2 V... higher voltage is NOT recommended ! )

When you install NEW & quality trim pot - DISCONNECT upper connector from +5V regulator board, and
measure (with DMM) and adjust +5,15V

Of course...in the meantime - connector J1 is fixed ?

Greetings from Croatia

FIrst thing I always do on those power supplies is reflow the top and lower header pins. Next is to check that pot. Sometimes there still good, sometimes not the case.

Ed at Great Plains Electronics has all your Gottlieb needs when it comes to electronics and hardware.

PM sent. It is nice to see someone honest!

CNKay helped me out on my 80B nightmare, best of luck.

Looking at the video, MPU keeps resetting. Reset board (far lower right)looks to be not connected. Which is fine just want to make sure. If it is connected try disconnecting it from MPU.

Yes, you have a voltage issue, like pinman said.

Remove power cable and check inside for bad connector pins. Ohm wires, should be extremely low .3-1.0 ohm. You have to measure a steady 5.0 on MPU / piggy and driver.

The main cpu cap is easy spot to check voltage for MPU. Piggy back board needs 5V check C1 and pin 7(gnd) and 14(+5) of the 7404 on piggyback board. Driver board any of the 74175s pin 8(gnd) pin 16(+5).

Has this machine ever worked correctly since you have owned it?

To add to this, usually, there's a small pull up resistor attached to the TC1 connector (didn't see it in the video). Perhaps it's needed for the game to boot up? Try putting the TC1 connector (with resistor) back in place and disconnecting at the reset board instead, then see if the CPU board is happier. I remember reading on John Robertson's site that the resistor is needed on some of the 80B games for the CPU board to work.

Steve

I've owned and repaired dozens of series 1, 80 and 80A pins and they are
more reliable than Bally, and far more reliable than Wms pins of the same
era. The grounding problems people mention are due to the crummy Molex
connectors becoming corroded. The most bang for your buck will be to
SOLDER a ground wire between the CPU, driver and power supply boards.
Doing the same for the +5 and 12v supplies is a good idea too. The best
solution is to replace all board Molex connectors with those that have gold plated pins.
Hard to find now, but THAT is the best fix.

My Spiderman & Black Hole have been running flawlessly for 20+ years since I've done these
things to it. And yes, they are played regularly.
Steve

It's OK to examine additional reset board on TC1.... BUT (from my point of view MORE important
is to take care of +5v supply.....contacts on J1, and proper adjustment (with "those" trim-pot )

Be sure you don't mix gold and tin contacts as that is more unreliable than tin-tin.

http://www.connector.com/2011/12/gold-or-tin-versus-gold-and-tin/

Keen eye my friend. you are correct better to disconnect from reset board and leave the TC1 40 pinsocket attached.

yeah 4.7K from pin 7-11 or something like that.

How you ever spotted that from THAT video is beyond my visual comprehension.

LOL. I figured everyone saw it too but didn't want to say anything to 2Kaulitz. The possibility of a power supply issue is a good one to pursue. That's what I told 2Kaulitz by PM on Sunday when he contacted me asking for help. I figured the pot was probably okay since he was getting two different readings for the 5VDC line. In our short volley of PM's, I told him to inspect for solder cracks around the header pins instead since that would give you the two different readings. 5.4VDC at the board but 4.3VDC at the CPU board would indicate this is the issue. I've had boards boot to attract with 4.3VDC before so that's when I went looking for another possibility for the winking on and off and saw there was no pull up resistor. He needs to get the header pins inspected and repaired, then get that resistor back on the board to see if it helps correct the problem. He's got you helping now so I'm out.

Steve

Yep -- many of the originals had a 3K between pins 7 and 11 to pull the read/write signal up. I incorporated this into the Gottlieb test fixture and ended up getting several emails -- "works fine with test fixture installed but it quits when I disconnect test fixture". Majority of time - installing that resistor on back of the board fixed the issue.

Ed

Yes i check my big house manual it is a 3K 1/4W resistor from pin7 to pin11.

Try reseting that daughter board again..., and it is possible it could have a couple of cold solder cracks on the back side of the socket for the DB... from stress from reseting it a bunch of times previously..

although i doubt that is the case though as my bud had reflowed that board before i got it...

I have NEVER had a power supply problem in all of the sys80b games i have owned although that doesnt mean it doesnt happen...

I have another PS here if that one turns out to be bad i can send you.... but trying to repair it would be the best option as you will know its fresh...

and make sure those grounds on that transformer panel are clean and tight...

The voltage problem is solved ? Did I miss something?

not sure on that, yet...

Im sure we will find out soon

2 thumbs up John... !

Thanks CNkay, for helping john as well....

glad to hear thats all it was..

Perhaps you have wondered why I insisted on replacing trim pot?
After several similar cases (about 20 years before ) such as this was, this procedure is for me
became 'what MUST to be done' !

At my pinballs, I removed them - ALL (I WAS operator/tech over 25 years )

Now...it's (nice) hobby )
(I'm sure - you understand me )

according to the usps you should have gotten wednesday. so drumroll...........

or crickets

Now that is funny. i sent something to CA late thurday and they get it by Saturday. if i send something to my brother in GA it takes almost a week. Go figure.

Well at least it sounds like you are up and running.

Weird issues?? kind of vague. But i hear that is Gerry's specialty. I would think weirdness fits that title perfectly.