Why?

Again why?

Why NOT! biggest problem with Gottlieb.

30V cap is likely for the 12V bridge which is double the parallel 6600uF cap in the machine now. bigger cap is ok to a point.
and the 50V cap for the 38V bridge but you need to check with schematics/manual.

I would really stop replacing parts and start reading Pinwiki for all good things Gottlieb.

First thing you need is all power supply voltages to be good, with no other boards attached.

Now that all sound OK. I did not mean to sound rude. I guess it may have been how you worded.

Yeah grounds and power supply would be your first step.

If you don't get attract mode and displays/hgtd your main cpu is not booting. So from the description above sound bad.

Which caps on what board??

Yeah like i said above the 50V cap will likely be wired across the HV bridge as a smoothing cap to get flatter DC.

Look at the schematics for the three bridges. The paralleled cap you have now is very close to what schematics call for lot of guys put a bigger one in. The kit lower voltage larger value will go there. The 50V cap will likely be for 38V bridge. and one bridge may have no smoothing cap for lamp voltage 6.3V.

Oh it sounds like you already had PS apart. Not sure with sys80A but if R10 is 30ohm that is to be changed to 680ohm to stop that zener from getting so toasty. If it is the part I am thinking of. Once again read as do PS stuff on pin wiki as separating heat sink from PS board is a pain.

oops i guess you don't need that. half of the bridge was replaced on the PS and the data sentry (box of death) is still on the MPU.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ Here is Ed site in case you don't know it you should.

I just bought a memory cap from Ed worked great. One of the more affordable options to never need batteries.
Ed, nobody seems to ever mention the initial loading when installing those. The 5V rails on my driver board were like 4.65-4.70V even MPU not much better 4.8V. Had to adjust up for a little while then dial it back once the cap had a descent charge i am guessing.

And Ed does have the all the correct parts to repair the PS. Even has a better (his own designed) one. BUT out of stock. Oh dang.

On the inner connect cable i believe it is the pin directly opposite of the ground so to pinch the boards with two connectors. same for the 5V if you just add two wies and stick them in the same two openings you can not go wrong.

On pwr supply right above R10 there is 8.2V check that.

Then with only plug in from power supply to mpu and see what you get. ON mpu leave all connectors unplugged but the display connectors far right "plug those in" and those two you (never pull off or on) with power on.

Oh did you run a line from pwr supply to the ground strip down by the xformer.

yeah your mpu is toast. Not booting.

Those are correct your pwr supply is fine . The 8.2 is offset for the displays likely fine I just wanted you to be aware of.

Well take maybe one or two pictures of CPU.

try to fire up with reset board disconnected. tc1 middle right side of mpu picture.

the three large chips U2, U3 and game rom 688 carefully pry up one at a time, lightly burnish legs with fine sandpaper or pencil eraser and re seat.

report back i am here.

yeah the board looks descent and looks like Q4 is white pretty freakin cool! but i looked at the 5101 funny and if it wasn't bad it is now. those go bad if you look at em wrong. super static sensitive. should be fine mounted in board but man that chip sucks.

Ok now you are going to have to get out the scope and or logic probe and start seeing if your 6502 getting correct clock. Checking address and data lines etc..

Oh, at this point you really don't need that battery on board at all, may want to remove. I don't think there are traces under but get it out the sooner the better.

yeah do that, the head back over to pinwiki and start reading no boot section. You will likely need logic probe at the very least. They are only 15-20.