(Topic ID: 257697)

Gottlieb system 80A help


By finnflash

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 30 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 3 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20191113_173306_resized (resized).jpg
5101_Corners (resized).jpg
20191217_162813 (resized).jpg

#1 3 months ago

I have a Gottlieb Ice Fever and I have 2 things I need help with:

1. I cant seem to figure out how to put it on free play.

2. The credits and high score clear everytime I shut the game off.

Any advice is appreciated.

#2 3 months ago

many Gottlieb early solid states do not have a factory Freeplay option not sure about System 80A but on later ones there are work arounds using jumper wires to other coin door or cabinet buttons (or custom ROM's) , & for the losing memory problem check batteries & connections there & then get the batteries off of the board via remote battery holder or NAvRAM if available

#3 3 months ago

That's what strange, there are no batteries.

#4 3 months ago

Well admittedly I know very little about Gottlieb games , just got my first one myself

#5 3 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I have a Gottlieb Ice Fever and I have 2 things I need help with:
1. I cant seem to figure out how to put it on free play.
2. The credits and high score clear everytime I shut the game off.
Any advice is appreciated.

True free play isn’t really an option on an OEM board. You can set it up to award a free game at a low score so you achieve it every time you play. That way there is always credits on the machine. As for the battery, remove it and install a memory capacitor. It is the easiest and cheapest fix. NVRAM is over kill on Gottliebs.

#6 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

True free play isn’t really an option on an OEM board. You can set it up to award a free game at a low score so you achieve it every time you play. That way there is always credits on the machine. As for the battery, remove it an install a memory capacitor. It is the easiest and cheapest fix. NVRAM is over kill on Gottliebs.

It must have something like that on there now, with no batteries. So not sure why it always resets.
Here are the boards, so you see anything out of place?

20191217_162813 (resized).jpg
#7 3 months ago

You’re battery might have been removed already. The OEM battery was a large black rectangle. Install this in place of it and you are good to go. Just need to solder it on. Easy to do.

ebay.com link » Electric Double Layer Memory Back Up Capacitor 1f 5 5vdc 2 Pcs

#8 3 months ago

It is the orange thing on the largest board. Can you solder?

#9 3 months ago

somebody added the orange batteries to the board. They have failed or weren’t installed correctly. Remove them with a soldering iron and install the memory capacitor the same way. Pos to pos and Neg to neg.

#10 3 months ago

Ok, thanks for the help

#11 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

ebay.com link » Electric Double Layer Memory Back Up Capacitor 1f 5 5vdc 2 Pcs

Here's a better choice -- same brand (Panasonic) of 1.5F caps that cost less.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CERS-1.5F-5V

The three pack of orangeness is your replacement battery pack. From CPU board photo at the 10000 ft altitude, it doesn't look like any damage from battery leakage but a closeup around the orange batteries may show differently. A previous owner may have saved you a ton of $$$ by changing out the old battery pack. *IF* they're NiCads and are installed properly then don't pull them yet, they may not be the issue. If diode CR34 is OK then, yes - maybe time to pull batteries. Easy way to check what batteries are doing. With power turned *off*, using volt meter - black lead to ground side of capacitor C1, use red lead to measure the voltage at banded end of CR34? This will tell us if there is any charge on the batteries and whether or not they're in backwards.
C1 is gray cap near the A1-J1 connection.
If you get about 3V there then measure voltage at the 5101 located at Z5 (where battery backed up data is stored).
Black lead still on negative end of C1 and red lead to pin 22. Ignore that blue arrow - that's pin 11 which is a data line.
This will at least tell us if there is a charge getting to the batteries and if the voltage is making it to Z5.

Now to see if the voltage is getting anywhere that it shouldn't. With machine still off - measure voltage directly across capacitor C1.

If you give up on this one - email me the back board from that machine! Mine is broken in the bottom right corner with a wimpy metal bracket holding it together.

Free play can be added to that machine only by changing PROMS at U2 and U3 but that isn't an easy or cheap task.

I can see there's a few other issues that should also be addressed but let's tackle this one first before moving to other things.

5101_Corners (resized).jpg
#12 3 months ago

Thanks, I will try this tomorrow.

#13 3 months ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

email me the back board from that machine! Mine is broken in the bottom right corner with a wimpy metal bracket holding it together.

g-p-e , what do you need for your game? I can't make sense of what is written above.

The "three-pack-of-orangeness" is factory I think. I've seen that many many times.

Here's what I can see.
1. the power supply hasn't been updated.
2. the "three-pack-of-orangeness" needs to be removed. Options are SuperCap (as GPE mentions), remote 3AA battery pack, lithium button cell, NVRAM (which I personally do not think is overkill)
3. ground mods haven't been incorporated.
4. small reset board is still attached. I'd disconnect that board. It has 3 ICs, lower right of picture.

Read up on System 80 at www.pinwiki.com
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#14 3 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

g-p-e , what do you need for your game? I can't make sense of what is written above.
The "three-pack-of-orangeness" is factory I think. I've seen that many many times.
Here's what I can see.
1. the power supply hasn't been updated.
2. the "three-pack-of-orangeness"needs to be removed. Options are SuperCap (as GPE mentions), remote 3AA battery pack, lithium button cell, NVRAM (which I personally do not think is overkill)
3. ground mods haven't been incorporated.
4. small reset board is still attached. I'd disconnect that board. It has 3 ICs, lower right of picture.
Read up on System 80 at www.pinwiki.com
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

chrishibler Do I just unplug the lower board?
I have nvram in other games, I will probably go that route. I just need to remove the orange batteries.

#15 3 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

g-p-e , what do you need for your game? I can't make sense of what is written above.
The "three-pack-of-orangeness" is factory I think. I've seen that many many times.
....
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Howdy Chris - lift and swing out backboard. With mine, somebody swung the back board out then lifted, not pretty. But I was actually just joking about asking for his, I noticed how nice his looked compared to my band aided board. I really don't need one - as ugly as mine is, it works fine.

For your list of stuff, other than the batteries, you hit on my entire list of "a few other issues" that I was going to bring up when he got to that point.
I have only seen the black Data Sentry batteries, I thought that was all they were made with. My Ice Fever's CPU has had the batteries changed, very clean CPU fortunately but still has nicads. The ones I have... are orange, but they look much different from what he has. I keep close watch on mine since I have it open often for testing/verifying 'stuff'.

finnflash - for testing, you can disconnect the 7 pin plug on the small reset board down in the corner.
Going to NVRAM - yeah, probably easier than futzing around with trying to figure out what is going on with batteries. And safer in the long run.
Read up on the System 80 stuff at pinwiki as Chris mentioned, grounds weren't performed very well on these boards. As far as the power supply - I tend to go with the "if it ain't broke" idea here as these can be a bugger to work on at times due to the sandwiched heatsink.
And soon, you'll be cursing the Gottlieb edge connectors with the rest of us.

#16 3 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Do I just unplug the lower board?

Exactly. At the board end, not the MPU end.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#17 3 months ago

I'm looking to replace one of the sling switches and not able to find the correct replacement on the normal pinball sites. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

#18 3 months ago

PBresource.com

They are the go-to source for all things Gottlieb.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

1 week later
#19 3 months ago

Ok, new issue.
I have a pop bumper that fires every once in a while when I hit the flippers or slings. I know it's something with the switch matrix but I dont have any schematics (dont think I could read them anyway)
How can I track down the issue?

#20 3 months ago

Not a switch matrix issue.
Either the spoon switch is too closely adjusted or the pop bumper Driver Board has an issue. Perhaps fractured solder joints at the header.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#21 3 months ago

Switch is fine, so most likely on the board?

#22 3 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Switch is fine, so most likely on the board?

You need to revisit the switch because odds are that is your problem. With the glass out, start a game and smack the playfield with your hand in different areas. Also try manually firing the other pop bumpers. My guess is that action will fire your questionable pop bumper. After you verify that slide in a piece of paper (like a business card) between the contacts of your questionable pop bumper and repeat the test. My guess is that your pop bumper won't be firing anymore. That will prove if it is the switch or not.

#23 3 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Not a switch matrix issue.
Either the spoon switch is too closely adjusted or the pop bumper Driver Board has an issue. Perhaps fractured solder joints at the header.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

Reflow the pins on the pop bumper boards, notorious for cracked joints which cause all sorts of havoc.

#24 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

You need to revisit the switch because odds are that is your problem. With the glass out, start a game and smack the playfield with your hand in different areas. Also try manually firing the other pop bumpers. My guess is that action will fire your questionable pop bumper. After you verify that slide in a piece of paper (like a business card) between the contacts of your questionable pop bumper and repeat the test. My guess is that your pop bumper won't be firing anymore. That will prove if it is the switch or not.

I open up the switch so it wouldn't work when hit, but flippers and slings still made it fiire.

#25 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Reflow the pins on the pop bumper boards, notorious for cracked joints which cause all sorts of havoc.

Could you happen to help me find where that is?

#26 3 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Could you happen to help me find where that is?

Should be one of these for each pop bumper.

20191113_173306_resized (resized).jpg
#27 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Should be one of these for each pop bumper.[quoted image]

Thank you for this!
Its fixed!

#28 3 months ago

So....what fixed it?

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#29 3 months ago

Some cold solder joints on pop bumper board.
Thanks for the help!

#30 3 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Some cold solder joints on pop bumper board.
Thanks for the help!

On my Haunted House all four of the boards were wrecked, I ended up reflowing them and replacing & upgrading caps for good measure.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
€ 8.40
$ 289.00
$ 8.00
Cabinet Parts
RPGCor
$ 4.49
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
€ 8.10
Flipper Parts
Buthamburg
€ 8.10
Flipper Parts
Buthamburg
$ 24.00
Playfield - Other
Pinball Mod Co.
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 86.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 5,899.95
Pinball Machine
Pinball Pro
€ 9.10
From: $ 175.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
From: $ 99.99
$ 7,599.00
Pinball Machine
Operation Pinball
$ 7,599.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
$ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 49.00
$ 369.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside