Finishing up a Gottlieb Timeline that was dormant for 30 years, ground mods, Rottendog mpu, was working nice, then, no sound..fuse ok, repined connector..getting nothing, don't know what to do next,if anyone can help, it will be greatly appreciated, Joel
Just to be sure, did you pull the fuse out of its holder and check it with your meter?
Unfortunately schematics for that game aren't freely available, so i may not be able to make too many suggestions. Verify you have proper voltages coming into the board (should be on schematic). There may be test points on the board, otherwise you can test at the connectors.
Also, you mentioned re-pinning the connector to the sound board. Follow the sound board connector back to the driver board (or mpu, I'm not sure which board it goes to) and re-pin that connector as well, if you haven't already.
Have you tried turning the volume pot back and forth a few times? Sometimes they get dirty internally and cause issues as well.
Good luck!
OK, I'll test the voltages, I did take the fuse out to check,did repin connector on driver board too, cleaned volume pot. I did notice the sound did not come on a few days ago so I shut the machine off and on and the sound came back, thanks
I checked vdc on the sound board, pin 5 of connector got 5v, pin 1 got 12v, I checked for the -12v on the diodes(top right of sound board, see pic) got -6v (??)really don't know where else to check for that voltage, I get nothing if I press the test button on sound board. I really don't know what to do next. Joel
timeline soundboard 001 (resized).JPGtimeline soundboard 003 (resized).JPGThat -6 vdc is suspect. It sounds like you were measuring for it correctly, but i'm not completely sure... hopefully someone more knowledgeable will correct us if necessary.
It looks like the -12 circuit is fairly simple, it's at the bottom of the schematic. There's 4 diodes, CR1,2,3,4, the electrolytic cap at C9, the resistor at R11, and the diode at CR5. I would check all the diodes using the diode test setting on your meter, check the resistor with the ohms test, and if possible I'd replace the electrolytic cap. The cap can be tested if your meter has a capacitance setting, but i think you have to remove the cap to properly test it.
I would remove the big cap in the center top of the board.
If you are lucky, you will find that it has leaked and severed the trace beneath it.
Those boards mostly either work or don't work.
Other possibilities are:
...failed ROM
...failed 555 timer
...failed 7404 (IIRC)
...failed LM380
...rocker switch failed
The 6503 is tough to find.
Most often the 6530 has failed. It contained Gottlieb specific code and is NLA. In which case, the board is of no use.
Pascal Janin makes a nice replacement board, I think called the PI-FX.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Thanks frunch and Chris, I'll remove that cap tomorrow morning but it looks very clean from here, it kills me because I have so many hours into this game and it was finally playing real nice, so after cleaning the cabinet and paint touch-ups for 3hours, decided to play one more game and NO sound, I think I cried a little, am I'm 58 years old. Is it possible there could be a problem with the driver board? I have a spare one. Chris, do you think this board could be repaired? or should I just get the new $150 replacement? Joel
Quoted from joelt1:Chris, do you think this board could be repaired? or should I just get the new $150 replacement?
The best way to answer that question is to use a logic probe to probe around and see if the 6503 is running, accessing the 6530, the 555 is running, etc.
If you don't have a logic probe, there is a good "how to use a logic probe guide" here on PinSide. The Elenco LP-560 is about $18 or so on eBay/Amazon. And, you have the schematics. You can't go very far wrong.
Or you can send it to me and I can give you a diagnosis. Happy to help.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Sound signals do pass through the driver board where they are inverted.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info
I had sort of an odd experience with this game. Found one in similar condition, rotted on the post rubber rings, dirt galore, ect. Shopped it out, fixed the cpu, cleaned everything, lamps, wax, ect. Sat down to play the first game on it, and creamed it, turned over the score display three or four times and quit playing on the third ball. Walked away wondering wtf Gottlieb was thinking when they made that game... Way to easy. It NEVER let me do that again. It was about like any system 80 after that first game.
Quoted from RWH:Was it the amplifier portion of the sound board or did he tell you what was wrong?
This particular board was a bit of a mess.
Both 7404s on the board were crocked.
But worse, the 6530 on the board had failed.
I replaced all of those. Board returned to normal operation.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
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