I bought mine from Docent Electronics. Note what they're selling is wires with the bifurcated edge connectors installed, so you'll need to reuse the connector housings when you replace these parts. Not too hard to do with the right tool for releasing the connector tabs from the housings. In fact, the listing below appears to come with the tool.

The listing is on the bottom-left of the page below, labeled "New Sys. 80 MPU to Driver A1J4 to A3J1 5" Cable Repair Kit"

https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/system%2080.htm

Is the game firing the pops/slings/etc after the ball goes out of play, or are you activating them?

I would suspect a possible short on one of the switches or a switch in need of adjustment. Can you put the game in switch test? It may be repeatedly reading a switch as being closed, interrupting other functions until it opens temporarily (just a guess)... So I'd verify all switches are working properly at this point.

Is there any sounds or scoring taking place while you're waiting for it to kick the ball out?

When you disconnected the reset coil, was there a pair of wires going to either lug? I'm thinking the power to the coils is likely Daisy-chained--and if there are 2 power wires going to that coil that are not currently spliced together, that would explain the lack of voltage to the other reset coils. Have you checked for DC voltage at all of the coils that aren't currently working?

Still getting any coils locked on?

Sounds like what you're describing could possibly be a switch matrix issue. Could you post the switch chart for the game?

Hmmm...not coming up with much, unfortunately. Did you happen to re-pin A1J6 yet?

I'm thinking maybe you have a couple pins on that connector possibly mixed up..?

Looking at the schematic, only the tilt switch and outhole switch use their strobes and returns--they aren't shared with any other switches (as far as i can tell). Want to post a pic of the female A1J6 connector?

I'm pretty sure you can reuse the connector housing that's in the game, but it's a pain getting the old pins out. I know i wound up having to re-use at least a couple of old connector housings when i got my BH a while back. I think they were IDC connectors, but the pins inside the housing could be extracted and replaced with crimp-on edge connector pins.

What are the wire colors going to the drop target switch that causes the outhole coil to fire?

Hey man, just came back to see if there's been any updates...but i guess you're still stuck?

I just noticed something looking at the schematic that i missed before. It appears the outhole switch is on Strobe 6 of the switch matrix, but the way the diagram is laid out i didn't make that connection. I thought the outhole and tilt switches were on a dedicated strobe and return, unused by the other switches on the matrix. That doesn't appear to be the case though, which means i would recommend taking a closer look at every other switch on Strobe 6 which includes a whopping 13(!) 10 point switches, the green spot target, and the special target. Make sure of all the usual stuff, no solder lugs shorting to anything adjacent or mashed together, no tensioner blades causing a short across the switch leaves, diodes installed properly and attached firmly, wires attached firmly and correctly installed, etc etc.

Just to make sure I'm looking at this correctly, could you take a couple pics of the outhole switch and the wiring attached to it?

1366529961.png

Well, the wiring for the switch matches the schematic. But I'm wondering where the brown and black striped wire goes. I guess to a diode strip somewhere? Could you follow that wire to wherever it goes to and snap a pic of the wiring attaches to it's diode?

Excellent, so i think that should confirm the outhole switch is indeed on the same strobe (#6) as those other switches i was suggesting you check. Guess the next step is to get a close look at each of those switches (including all 13 of the 10-pt switches) and look for something shorting etc.

Good luck!

I'm thinking a stuck or shorted switch might be causing issues down the line. The outhole is on strobe 6 and is getting triggered by the drop target 3 switch on return 2. Anytime i have a switch matrix problem, i always make it a point to verify no stuck or shorted switches and diodes on any of the strobes or returns involved with the problem switch(es). It may not yield our culprit, but at very least it'll hopefully allow us to rule out the switches and wiring/diodes to them so we can focus on whatever else could be behind it. I'll see what else i can come up with in the meantime.

One other thing worth checking would be the chips that handle the strobes and returns for the switch matrix on the cpu board. Could you post the schematics for that section of the CPU board?

Interesting! That would allow you to test it to rule out the CPU. You'd need to run it's switch test via the included software to verify no errors on the board's end. If the board checks good, then you'll have to focus again on the playfield and connectors on the backbox. I've also been thinking about that big connector between the driver and cpu boards, did you say you were able to re-pin that connector?

I am just thinking maybe there was a mix-up in the wiring when you re-pinned that connector. I cant remember: were you having this problem before re-pinnning it?

Good stuff, man! I was wondering if you ever got any further with this one. Glad you got in touch with Ace/Ni-wumpf, we probably would have continued spinning our wheels!

Def follow up with your continued testing/troubleshooting!

Excellent! Good work, glad you saw it through to the finish line.

Also, as far as that connector you need--is the housing for the connector still ok? You may actually be able to reuse the housing if so. It's difficult to extract the pins, but should be doable. Also, the crimp-on edge connector pins should fit if it's the original connector.