(Topic ID: 283830)

Gottlieb System 80 - Q Relay / T Relay

By MaxAsh

34 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 3 posts
  • 1 Pinsider participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by MaxAsh
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


Linked Games

#1 34 days ago

Picked up a James Bond project and I've got it partially back to life. Working out some bugs. Suggestions welcome!

New Ni Wumpf MPU, replaced the power supply with a known working one.

* Game boots up, displays / GI on, credits up fine, knocker works. I can start a game and the ball will kick out, and the switches for scoring seem to work fine. None of the other solenoids were working, so I checked the Q (Game Over) relay. It's not pulling in when a game is started.

* I put a jumper between ground and the metal tab of transistor Q1 on the driver board, and the "Q" relay pulled in just fine, allowing the flippers and slingshots to work (pop bumpers not working still). So I know the wiring should be good from that perspective.

* I tested for voltage at the solenoids (and at the Q relay) and it's sitting around 40vdc. I thought it was supposed to be 24vdc, but I saw some references in other posts about there being 38-40vdc on the solenoid line. Is that accurate?

* Checked the rectifiers in the bottom of the cabinet and they tested around .488 using the diode tests on the System 80 repair guide, so they seem ok. The + side of the solenoid rectifier is showing 40.1vdc, the other two legs sitting right at 23.9vdc relative to the ground tab.

* I don't have sound, and I noticed that when I diode tested the Sound rectifier, I had continuity between ground side and + side... not sure if that's a problem. The other rectifiers didn't have that when I checked (I know that wasn't in the test guide).

* I cleaned the contacts on the Q and T relays. I have not repinned all the connectors yet (waiting on more bits and pieces in the mail).

Thoughts? Why wouldn't Q be pulling in?

#2 29 days ago

Bump... I think I overloaded with the info in my first post some. Backing up a little and asking a specific question first. Regarding Bridge Rectifiers, I'm wondering if these readings are correct or not. Something seems off:

All Rectifiers on Diode Test between Ground and the two adjacent legs are within the .4 to .6 range expected (most a little under .5)

- Solenoid Bridge Rectifier (24V): Legs adjacent to Ground = 23.9 VDC / Positive leg opposite ground = 39.8 VDC

- Lamp Rectifier (6V): Legs adjacent to Ground = 8.1 VDC / Positive leg opposite ground = 15.1 VDC

- Sound Rectifier (12V): Legs adjacent to Ground = 6.1 VDC / Positive leg opposite ground = 13.3 VDC

Note: I read a short between Ground and Positive on the Sound rectifier when the game is off.

3 weeks later
#3 5 days ago


I repinned more connectors. I've restored the Sound, not much else has improved, but I do have a new symptom of sorts:

When the game is powered on and idle, the "Q" relay is regularly trying to pull in, but just barely. I can hear a faint clicking. Upon observation, it's as if the coil/magnet on it is too weak to pull, but trying.

The behavior is odd though, since I'm pretty sure Q is only supposed to pull when a game is started, and this action is occurring randomly while the game is simply on. I checked the relay coil, tests good from an ohms perspective (matches the reading on the tilt relay next to it). Voltage is good and steady around 24vdc at the coil, and coming through the normally closed T relay as it should. Grounding the tab on the associated transistor pulls in the Q relay just fine.


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