(Topic ID: 289637)

Gottlieb System 80 PS voltage off?

By nikmilanitaly

7 months ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 months ago by nikmilanitaly
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 7 months ago

#PATOFNAUD
#Oneinchbiceps

Dear guys,
im nik from milan italy, nice to enter in this comunity of pinball.

I read this old topic:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-ps-voltage-off#post-722926

and i think i have same problem.

Power supply card of my gottlieb counterforce system 80, have led 5v and 12v power on.

But if i check cable there are not 12v and 5v but less.

follow:

Tp3 w/ tp4 +5v is 2.4v
Tp3 w/ tp5 +8v is 5.6v
Tp1 64.5v
Tp2 46.8

Q3
head 5v
3.5
2.4

connector J1
- 5.1
- Gnd
-
-
- 2.4
- 2.4
- 42
- 5.6

connectot J3
- 2.4
-
- Gnd
- Gnd
- 64.4
-
- 46.8

connector J2
- 2.4
- 2.4
- Gnd
- Gnd
-
-

What do u think? is good idea to replace C1 (the 6800uf cap), or is
better before to check others? is good to check bridge and how i can check it?

Suggestion where to buy c1?

thank a lot from italy for your help!

Note: in photo sound card in disconnected, because probably have some defect (connect 5v led dont work), but i will think after have resolved problem of 12v/5v...

Nik

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#2 7 months ago

Well I cant tell you what to replace on the power supply board but I can tell you I have seen some on ebay recently. https://ebay.to/3qC8Fcr Might be worth a shot.

#3 7 months ago
Quoted from vendingjunkie:

Well I cant tell you what to replace on the power supply board but I can tell you I have seen some on ebay recently. https://ebay.to/3qC8Fcr Might be worth a shot.

dear,
thanks for your reply,

but my gottlieb conterforce is "system 80" and your power supply is for others gottlieb system, not compatible.

My power supply board seems to work perfect, on my post i have esplained what i need to replace...

i hope someone or

#PATOFNAUD
#Oneinchbiceps

can help me that already know issue...

#4 7 months ago

Inbound power is the problem. And as you mentioned, a new board won't help here unless your power supply is dragging the inbound power down.

Measure DC voltage directly across the low voltage cap in the base. Two measurements - #1 with J1 disconnected at power supply, #2 with J1 connected.
Significant change? Also measure AC voltage there with J1 connected.

If that cap is original (yours looks original with another cap taped to the side) - definitely time to replace.
For this, use a 10000uF to 12000uF, 25V screw terminal cap.
As an example, I use this in my Ice Fever (80A) but you should be able to locate these in Italy:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CCG-12000uF-25V

#5 7 months ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Inbound power is the problem. And as you mentioned, a new board won't help here unless your power supply is dragging the inbound power down.
Measure DC voltage directly across the low voltage cap in the base. Two measurements - #1 with J1 disconnected at power supply, #2 with J1 connected.
Significant change? Also measure AC voltage there with J1 connected.
If that cap is original (yours looks original with another cap taped to the side) - definitely time to replace.
For this, use a 10000uF to 12000uF, 25V screw terminal cap.
As an example, I use this in my Ice Fever (80A) but you should be able to locate these in Italy:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CCG-12000uF-25V

yes the cap orange is original, but is soldered tin, i checked is 6800uf 25 and are taped in parallel with newone 10000uf 25v like new photo

I need capacitor from 6800uf to 12000/15000uf 25v, but must be screw terminal cap??? i cannot soldered tin??

and must be 25v, cannot 10000/12000uf 50/63v? because i read that someone thi zaccaria pinball that want 10000uf 25v put 10000uf 63v and told is ok!?

Because is very expensive, and i have found on ebay more cheaper without screw or 63v...

...following are all snap in, not screw, are compatible?

ebay.com link: N 1pcs Condensatore elettrolitico THT 10000uF 25V %C3%9825x35mm 20

ebay.com link: Lotto di condensatori elettrolitici supercap 2x6800uF 25V 2x2200uF 40V testati
this i can put 2 6800uf in parallel....so i think i had 16800uf or maybe orange was down 6800 or half, and was 10.000 around 13000....?

ebay.com link: Elko Capacitor Kondensator 13000uF 25V 105 Nippon Chemicon KMG

ebay.com link: 2 Pins 10000uf 10000mfd 25V 22 40 Electrolytic Capacitor For DIY Repair 105

ebay.com link: Snap In Elko Kondensator Radial 12000 F 25V 105 C LGU1E123MELZ d22x45mm 12000uF

ebay.com link: 2 Pins 15000uf 15000mfd 25V 30 30 Electrolytic Capacitor For DIY Repair

capacitor_gottlieb (resized).jpg
#6 7 months ago

i'd personally stick with one capacitor.

yes can be 50V, or 63V or 100V, just don't go below 25 VDC

your choice of how you join the original wiring to the capacitor, screw in, snap in, radial, axial all okay imo, but i would fix in place, not leave 'floating'.

#7 7 months ago

If it was me - I would stick with the name brand caps such as the Elko 12000uF (5th link).
That one might fit within the VR3A capacitor clamp that you have shown in the photo below the old 6800uF radial cap.

Ed

#8 7 months ago

i have found this sprague 11000uf 25v screw

i think price and brand is good compromise

ebay.com link: Condensatore Elettrolitico Terminali Da Vite SPRAGUE 11000 Uf 25 Vdc

#9 7 months ago

No -- too old. That one has a date code from the 44th week of 1978.
No need for screw terminal caps, I just find them easier to use in this location.

#10 7 months ago

For roughly 75 dollars you can buy a modern power supply with the proper heat sink and have peace of mind. That solved ALL my issues.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-114

#11 7 months ago

That power supply still needs the base capacitor that OP which is what he is looking for.

With the exception of the dimensions.. Marco really needs to update the descriptions on that page. His description is verbatim from what was on my website (he used to sell my boards back when I was still making boards). He highlights features from my board that this boards does not have.

#12 7 months ago

Hello all...

I changed the capacitor... but dont change..

i check small transformer b-19551 that also i heard a bzzzz noise when power on pinball..

tester - on green and red on follow pin

16 0v if i read well on datasheet must be 12v
17 0v if i read well on datasheet must be 12v
3 2,5v if i read well on datasheet must be 12v
7 2,6v if i read well on datasheet must be 12v
10,11,12 5,8v datashett tell 5v
15 2,3v
13 2,3v
14 2,3v

where i can found b-19551 old power supply?

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#13 7 months ago

have you tried adjusting the potentiometer?

#14 7 months ago

Yeah!!!!!

Resolved issue of 12v!!

Was the socket of fuse oxidized!!! I must clean with dremel beacuse spray dont resolve problem!!

Sound board and power board work perfect

Now i found same problem of oxidize on all connector of mpu board! I tries clean but a lot broken!

Where i can buy connector comb to all cable compatibke to weld to mount it and replace?

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