are you trying to run 110v transformers with the inputs in series?

there you go then .. thats why it doesnt work. you have the wrong transformers in it. the small one will run hot and you will get exactly what you see there.. now you know why the blackhole you saw here is here same problem.

post me the part numbers for interest but i would say you best go buy a step down and put them back to 110v

If there is no display load on the power supply, the voltage will be higher. If your BH is wired for 110V and this is what your outlet should be, I'd try putting some of the displays (if known good) back on line and see if the voltage pulls back closer to the correct load voltages.

Steve (posting from the hospital)
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

Steve's right.
Unloaded, those voltages will be high.
Put a load on them and measure again.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31

you cant have both ...the manual shows the 110V transformers as B-19548 and C-19552 and the 230V transformers as B-19550 and C-19554

which one do you have? The problem with the one here is someones mixed up a dual input larger one with a single input 110v 60hz smaller one and tried to run the lot on 230v 50hz ..

Those are american 110V 60hz units..

The 230V units actually have dual 110V inputs ON EACH ONE.. now you understand why the manual has the pic it does..
The pic shows only one transformer - thats how you do the primary for each ... but those primaries are matched. Each transformer input overall is still 230v not 110V..

Screen Shot 2016-10-15 at 6.15.31 pm (resized).png

can you rig it by splitting them into series as well??.. probably. good luck with it. There is no way I am about to argue with the learned gentlemen above on anything but I suggest running a transformer designed for 60hz at 50hz will be less that optimal no matter how you wire it.

save me writing it all .. http://www.electricaltechnology.org/2012/03/can-we-operate-60hz-transformer-on-50hz.html

trouble is the small 230V one is a bugger to find.. I have been looking for a year now.

someone will probably tell you a hack to get it working .. just be aware its not the right way to do it.. Gottlieb made a 230v one for a reason.

a step-down doesnt change the frequency. just the voltage.

the one here ( the one over the back against the wall) isnt actually mine.. it belongs to a customer and its here waiting for the right transformer to come along to fix it properly. The trouble with "do it properly or not at all" is a game can sit for years waiting for the right second hand part to come along.

Someone might be able to tell you a hack to get it going ? perhaps it works well enough for you.. curious to see if R10 on the power supply burns up..

fuse has blown in base. dont bother changing it.. it will keep happening. ask daniel how close he was to pushing machine off the roof before we spotted the cause

ok happy fixing.. lmk if you need schematic or anything

On the last power supply I worked on that had high voltage problems, the Q1 regulator with the heatsink had cracked solder joints.

R10 is a part of the 5v/12v section--it doesn't have anything to do with the 42v/60v section.

you sure its not part of the 8vdc offset for the 5vac for the displays?

I meant the high voltage section, not excessive voltage. Inspect Q1. It tends to wiggle.

Hmm..I'm not sure where the 8v is going to once it reaches the power supply connector or how it reaches the displays.

But--8vdc seems to come from the cabinet and doesn't get regulated on the power supply.

[edit]: I really shouldn't be looking at schematics this late at night.

you have it ass about..

CR7 and R10 make it .. its then fed back to the small trafo as a reference voltage for the 5vac that runs the display filaments.

lol ..call the waitress we need another round of drinks

Hi ForceFlow, glad to see you in this thread, hopefully Chris will hang in on this thread too. It's also good to see other System 80 guys helping on this thread as well wiredoug.

I just checked in to see what progress was made, I'm a little foggy from the Chemo treatment and I'm not near any of my schematics right now. So I'll ask a question about a common System 80 power supply issue that can shut down the displays without blowing the display fuse. Have all the header pins had the solder re-flowed at the A2 board? Making the power supply solid is the start of a healthy game.

It is common for solder cracks to form around any header pins in System 80 games. It might be where the display power has been lost at A2. While you have the A2 board separated from the heat sink you may want to replace R10 and CR7 with the correct parts as suggested in PinWiki if it hasn't been done yet.

This also happens at the pop bumper boards so keep that in mind for later.

As has been mentioned by wiredoug, another cause of display failure is the loss of the 5VAC to the displays, IIRC, there is also a connector involved in that line that will need to be looked at, I've seen it fail there in my BH.

You may also need to go back and check the displays themselves. One of them may have failed and shorted to ground taking all the displays down with it.

I'll check in later to see if the problem has been solved. Wow, lots of typing with numb fingers, I hope I didn't screw up too bad.

Steve (posting from the hospital)
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure