Volcano
Gottlieb, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ChrisHibler.
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Rebuild it.
Procedure is here:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board
I've rebuilt dozens of them. Once done, they are ready for the next 30 years.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Is that R10 a 680 ohm?
The cap at C2 is a non-polarized cap.
You really should put a "normal" polarized cap in there.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
TP1/2 are a little high probably because they are unloaded. Those are fine.
I’ve never seen TP5 (8V offset) that high but it shouldn’t cause an issue.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info
The two parts that Ed is referring to are CR7, an 8.2V zener (1N4738), and R10, which should be changed out to a 680 ohm resistor. See image.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from G-P-E:Yet when I look at the photo - I can make out the ending "0A".
If that is a 1N4740A then that explains why he sees 9.92V.
Excellent detective work.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from reshuman:I was looking at this thread since I am working on the same PSU from a 1983 Gottlieb Haunted House game. I noticed that your schematic (just like mine) shows R10 as 30 ohms and 2W, but the photo included earlier and some of the messages above indicate on your board it is 680 ohms and 1/4W. You seem to have this working, but I just wanted to point out the apparent discrepancy so you can make absolutely certain that you have the right part in there and don't have issues down the road. Good work and best of luck.
The original Gottlieb design has been improved upon, many years ago, by replacing R10 with a 680 ohm resistor and CR7 with a 1N4738. This has been common practice for a long time now. It prevents CR7 from burning up.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info
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Chesterfield, MO