(Topic ID: 255155)

Gottlieb System 80 Haunted House Missing Wiring

By R8f1k

4 years ago


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  • 29 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Jasenwm
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Attached is a photo of what my game looks like, there is something missing with the wiring harness. It could be the J1-A1, but I am not sure and it looks like there are some connections missing on the driver board. Any help!!!!

IMG_8322 (resized).JPGIMG_8322 (resized).JPG
#2 4 years ago

Ok, my dumb ass found the connector for the bottom of the driver board. It was hanging there in the cab, but the power connection is missing from the power supply to the MPU. As of right now, I have GI lights on the play field when I turn on the main switch, but that is it. No displays light up, no LEDs on the Power Supply, I assume all of this is because of the power cord I am missing. (I have ordered one already) I also don't have voltage at any of the test points on the power supply. Will I get those once I plug in the missing cord?

#4 4 years ago

I will check all of those points before I proceed. The connector is now reattached. As a note I have replaced the following:
1) All 4 rectifiers by the transformer
2) recapped the power supply board, new diodes, new transistors as well.
3) Recapped all the pop bumper driver boards and modified with updated cap values.

The battery on my MPU was bad and I have not reinstalled a new one, will that effect boot up?
Are ther voltages to check on the fuses to verify as well?
Please advise.

#6 4 years ago

Ok, so here is what I have:

TP4 = 5.02 VDC

LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.04VDC

LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.01 VDC

HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 86 VDC

HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 70.01 VDC

HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 52.2 VDC

Is the connector that connects to driver board's J4 tucked down into the machine still? Connected

More of the machine lights up, back box has lightning, displays will flicker, more lights come on for playfield, you can hear the coin door hold coils engage.
If you wiggle A2-J3, the playfield display will sometimes come on, but won't stay on.

Please advise

#8 4 years ago

Tp3 to e2 = 71.4 VDC

#10 4 years ago

There is a 1N4759 in there, good solder joint.
Advise

#14 4 years ago

Ok, I don't have an extra, is there a good substitute? I also have another power supply that works, but is not rebuilt. When I plug into J3 on either machine, I don't get the lightning feature or displays to light up. If you jiggle the connector on either board, the lighting starts, but not the displays. I am thinking that I need to repin this machine in a number of places. What do you recommend to get the process started? What components should I order from you? Do you offer new components to 'rebuild' a display? The glass looks good on all of units, but I was wondering if there are solid state components that would help the originals last longer.

Here are the readings from the old and not rebuilt power supply:
TP4 = 4.46VDC

LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 13.70VDC

LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 4.46VDC

HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 85.0VDC

HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 65.3VDC

HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 50.3VDC

#16 4 years ago

I have an old 'AMP' ratcheting crimper from the 80's, I think it will work for these pins.

Will a new 1N4759 (CR5) fix my voltage readings? I have ordered the suggested parts this evening.

#17 4 years ago

Replaced CR5 and repined the power supply. Here are my readings:

LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.22VDC
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.009VDC
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 87.3VDC
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 69VDC
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 51.1VDC

When I turn on the machine, some coils fire, no displays working, and that is about it. Now all the back glass lights work and more of the play field GI's. I do NOT have the lower play field installed if that makes any difference in this process.

Please advise.

#18 4 years ago

Bump

Anyone?

#20 4 years ago

When I first plugged the game in about a week ago, I was able to get the back glass displays to flicker. Now I get nothing. I applied 9 volts to each end pin on the glass and they lit up with orange stripes to 'burn off'. The displays have dark dots in the corner, not white dots, from what I hear that is good.

I am still running the original MPU to Driver board connector with out a second ground. I will modify tomorrow.

I have not cleaned any under the play field contacts. Should I start there or the grounds?

So the play field display will flicker on occasion, I could reflow all of them.

#22 4 years ago

Replaced CR5 and repined the power supply. Here are my readings:
LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.22VDC
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.009VDC
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 87.3VDC
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 69VDC
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 51.1VDC
When I turn on the machine, some coils fire, no displays working, and that is about it. Now all the back glass lights work and more of the play field GI's. I do NOT have the lower play field installed if that makes any difference in this process.
Please advise.

#23 4 years ago

These are my fuse readings:

F1 7.20VDC
F2 6.26VDC
F3 37.8VDC
F4 17.7 VDC
F5 4.6-5.2VDC fluctuating
F6 0.9VDC
F7 0.9VDC
F8 36.2VDC
F10 0.1VDC
F11 0.1VDC
F12 30.5VDC
F13 30.5VDC
F14 30.5VDC
F15 36.3VDC

#26 4 years ago

Caps have been replaced.

Will NOT start a game.

No displays, no coils, no service button function, none of the lights under the play field work only above GI.

No attract mode.

I do not have an upgraded main cable, what should I look for on the main cable? Should I reflow those contacts?

#27 4 years ago

Reflowed the contacts on the MPU for the displays, no change, no displays.

Going to do the grounds tomorrow. Since I have no displays and it won't boot up a game, I feel like I am missing something beyond the grounds.

ONE, yes ONE insert lit up on the upper play field, no others anywhere. If I push on any of the three relays under the play field, the lights either switch off or in the case of the lower play field, they turn on.

#28 4 years ago

Ok, maybe you guys think this is giving up, but I bought a Pascal PI-80 board to help with the project. I am going to keep these boards for now since I am also looking at a Black Hole and may need them. I am still only getting limited results from my dead machine. (This machine was COMPLETELY apart when I go it. Someone stripped everything to do a playfield swap, never happened and boxed it all up. It got RUSTY while sitting for 10 years and I bought it, it is now about 99% assembled) I am hoping that this board will eliminate most/all of my issues. I also am wondering what I should do BEFORE I install the new board to prevent any damage that may occur from something faulty on my machine. ANY info would be greatly appreciated!!!

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