(Topic ID: 255155)

Gottlieb System 80 Haunted House Missing Wiring


By R8f1k

14 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 28 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by R8f1k
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 2 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_8322 (resized).JPG

#1 14 days ago

Attached is a photo of what my game looks like, there is something missing with the wiring harness. It could be the J1-A1, but I am not sure and it looks like there are some connections missing on the driver board. Any help!!!!

IMG_8322 (resized).JPG
#2 13 days ago

Ok, my dumb ass found the connector for the bottom of the driver board. It was hanging there in the cab, but the power connection is missing from the power supply to the MPU. As of right now, I have GI lights on the play field when I turn on the main switch, but that is it. No displays light up, no LEDs on the Power Supply, I assume all of this is because of the power cord I am missing. (I have ordered one already) I also don't have voltage at any of the test points on the power supply. Will I get those once I plug in the missing cord?

#3 13 days ago

J2 on power supply to J1 on CPU board -- that is output from power supply and the absence of that cable won't affect LED's.
Check to see if you have good power coming into the power supply. Always make sure you have good power at TP4 BEFORE installing power J2 to CPU board cable.

LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Should be an unregulated 12V (ballparked at 12V).
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Should be regulated 5V (roughly within a half volt). Once you have a voltage at TP4, you can bump the voltage up or down with the potentiometer. Be careful doing this - going too high will trigger the crowbar circuit (SCR1). Crowbar circuit is an over voltage circuit that protects the CPU circuitry, it kills the 5V if it detects too high of a voltage. Only way to clear the crowbar is to shut machine off, turn pot back down and then turn on again. Once you get that going, dial in to about 5.05V.

HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V.
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%.
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V).

Is the connector that connects to driver board's J4 tucked down into the machine still?

#4 13 days ago

I will check all of those points before I proceed. The connector is now reattached. As a note I have replaced the following:
1) All 4 rectifiers by the transformer
2) recapped the power supply board, new diodes, new transistors as well.
3) Recapped all the pop bumper driver boards and modified with updated cap values.

The battery on my MPU was bad and I have not reinstalled a new one, will that effect boot up?
Are ther voltages to check on the fuses to verify as well?
Please advise.

#5 13 days ago
Quoted from R8f1k:

The battery on my MPU was bad and I have not reinstalled a new one, will that effect boot up?

No, just will not retain high score or credits.

#6 13 days ago

Ok, so here is what I have:

TP4 = 5.02 VDC

LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.04VDC

LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.01 VDC

HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 86 VDC

HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 70.01 VDC

HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 52.2 VDC

Is the connector that connects to driver board's J4 tucked down into the machine still? Connected

More of the machine lights up, back box has lightning, displays will flicker, more lights come on for playfield, you can hear the coin door hold coils engage.
If you wiggle A2-J3, the playfield display will sometimes come on, but won't stay on.

Please advise

#7 12 days ago

Most voltages look good except TP1 is off by too far.
Measure voltage between E2 and TP3.

Wiggling connector for things to come back is a sign of a bad connection.
could be bad solder joint, bad crimp connection within plug or broken wire.

#8 12 days ago

Tp3 to e2 = 71.4 VDC

#9 12 days ago

Wrong voltage at E2 --
E2 voltage is established by the voltage rating of zener diode CR5. CR5 is 62V +/- 5%. Worst case upper voltage for CR5 = 65.1V.

One of three things here:
1 -- CR5 is bad
2 -- CR5 is wrong value
or
3 -- bad solder joint at CR5.

#10 12 days ago

There is a 1N4759 in there, good solder joint.
Advise

#11 12 days ago

He may have been damaged...
Or maybe --
can you make sure there is good conductivity (no resistance) between the E2 terminal and the cathode (banded end) of CR5?
And make sure there is good conductivity between CR5 anode (non-banded end) and ground?

#12 12 days ago

.2 ohms

#13 12 days ago

OK -- you may need to replace CR5.

#14 12 days ago

Ok, I don't have an extra, is there a good substitute? I also have another power supply that works, but is not rebuilt. When I plug into J3 on either machine, I don't get the lightning feature or displays to light up. If you jiggle the connector on either board, the lighting starts, but not the displays. I am thinking that I need to repin this machine in a number of places. What do you recommend to get the process started? What components should I order from you? Do you offer new components to 'rebuild' a display? The glass looks good on all of units, but I was wondering if there are solid state components that would help the originals last longer.

Here are the readings from the old and not rebuilt power supply:
TP4 = 4.46VDC

LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 13.70VDC

LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 4.46VDC

HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 85.0VDC

HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 65.3VDC

HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 50.3VDC

#15 12 days ago

The 2nd power supply looks to be running better than the first one, a tad high on the HV side but not bad. You will need to turn up the low voltage 5V potentiometer. Turn slowly to about 5.05 volts.
Does sound like you need to repin the plug. I would repin all three.

If you need to replace the plugs, easiest is to use CS156 style plugs as shown here:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81
But these plugs were often the discrete crimp type plugs which means you can easily repin them.
Crimp contact, buy a few to practice with if you aren't familiar with this. Good, general purpose contact for power supply is 08-52-0113. Can also use 08-52-0072 which is often used within edge connectors as well.

And keys -- 15-04-0219. One per connector if you are replacing connectors instead of reusing.

If you need a crimper - 1026-CT is a good, entry level version.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=80

I also have the W-HT-1919 from waldom.
Some people swear by these... some people swear at them.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=59

As you progress along, you may find some edge connectors that need repinning. A choice of contacts for those can be found at the top of this page:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=77
Reusing the IDC plugs is possible but can be a bugger. As the replacements disappear, more people may be stuck using the original IDC plugs.
No replacement contacts for the black, double sided edge connectors. Connect/disconnect those plugs as little as possible.

No kits for the displays, not really anything to do to these. For the Gottlieb VFDs - if they're working, best to leave them alone.

#16 12 days ago

I have an old 'AMP' ratcheting crimper from the 80's, I think it will work for these pins.

Will a new 1N4759 (CR5) fix my voltage readings? I have ordered the suggested parts this evening.

#17 6 days ago

Replaced CR5 and repined the power supply. Here are my readings:

LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.22VDC
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.009VDC
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 87.3VDC
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 69VDC
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 51.1VDC

When I turn on the machine, some coils fire, no displays working, and that is about it. Now all the back glass lights work and more of the play field GI's. I do NOT have the lower play field installed if that makes any difference in this process.

Please advise.

#18 5 days ago

Bump

Anyone?

#19 5 days ago

Will it start a game? Do you know if the displays are good? Every Sys80 I have had I did all the ground mods first, cleaned every contact, then fired it up. I am working on a Counterforce right now with similar issues. have you looked at the connections to the Displays? do they need to be re-flowed? I'd focus on 1 thing at a time. Does the test button start any of the tests? Lower PF shouldn't matter. I've had mine out of my HH and it still "worked"

#20 5 days ago

When I first plugged the game in about a week ago, I was able to get the back glass displays to flicker. Now I get nothing. I applied 9 volts to each end pin on the glass and they lit up with orange stripes to 'burn off'. The displays have dark dots in the corner, not white dots, from what I hear that is good.

I am still running the original MPU to Driver board connector with out a second ground. I will modify tomorrow.

I have not cleaned any under the play field contacts. Should I start there or the grounds?

So the play field display will flicker on occasion, I could reflow all of them.

#21 5 days ago

Based on prior conversation - sounds like just the 6-digit displays are not working and the small, 4-digit is working.
Did you measure the grid voltage to make sure it is getting to the displays? And the 60VDC?

#22 5 days ago

Replaced CR5 and repined the power supply. Here are my readings:
LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.22VDC
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.009VDC
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 87.3VDC
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 69VDC
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 51.1VDC
When I turn on the machine, some coils fire, no displays working, and that is about it. Now all the back glass lights work and more of the play field GI's. I do NOT have the lower play field installed if that makes any difference in this process.
Please advise.

#23 5 days ago

These are my fuse readings:

F1 7.20VDC
F2 6.26VDC
F3 37.8VDC
F4 17.7 VDC
F5 4.6-5.2VDC fluctuating
F6 0.9VDC
F7 0.9VDC
F8 36.2VDC
F10 0.1VDC
F11 0.1VDC
F12 30.5VDC
F13 30.5VDC
F14 30.5VDC
F15 36.3VDC

#24 5 days ago

Lower PF shouldn't really matter for what you are doing, but it not being there will impact your voltage readings. Additionally, there is a relay that switches back and forth between the top and bottom playfield in attract mode. When you start a game, a second one affects coils (I believe this is the Q relay). If that relay isn't working as expected it may affect many of your coils working or not. (There are actually 3 of them that have 3 different functions toward the back right of the main pf.

Have the 2 big caps in the bottom of the cabinet been replaced? If they are still the orange ones(or light blue?), I suggest replacing them.

Many HH issues can be directly related to the main cable assembly not making good connections. Double/Triple check this.

pasted_image (resized).png
#25 5 days ago

So... apparently I am mixing up your conversation with another? When you turn it on - no displays (as you say). But I thought you said the machine would run but no displays? Or was this the other guy that said this? Apparently I'm not multitasking very well this weekend.

Voltages listed in post 22 are good enough to get you going.
Zablon made good recommendations.
I'd send you off to pinwiki to do power mods as mentioned but their site appears to have been hacked.

#26 5 days ago

Caps have been replaced.

Will NOT start a game.

No displays, no coils, no service button function, none of the lights under the play field work only above GI.

No attract mode.

I do not have an upgraded main cable, what should I look for on the main cable? Should I reflow those contacts?

#27 5 days ago

Reflowed the contacts on the MPU for the displays, no change, no displays.

Going to do the grounds tomorrow. Since I have no displays and it won't boot up a game, I feel like I am missing something beyond the grounds.

ONE, yes ONE insert lit up on the upper play field, no others anywhere. If I push on any of the three relays under the play field, the lights either switch off or in the case of the lower play field, they turn on.

#28 2 days ago

Ok, maybe you guys think this is giving up, but I bought a Pascal PI-80 board to help with the project. I am going to keep these boards for now since I am also looking at a Black Hole and may need them. I am still only getting limited results from my dead machine. (This machine was COMPLETELY apart when I go it. Someone stripped everything to do a playfield swap, never happened and boxed it all up. It got RUSTY while sitting for 10 years and I bought it, it is now about 99% assembled) I am hoping that this board will eliminate most/all of my issues. I also am wondering what I should do BEFORE I install the new board to prevent any damage that may occur from something faulty on my machine. ANY info would be greatly appreciated!!!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 50.00
$ 159.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
2,600
Machine - For Sale
San Diego, CA
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Brownsburg, IN
$ 14.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
$ 1,099.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
From: $ 19.95
€ 8.40
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 279.95
Cabinet - Toppers
COINTAKER.COM
$ 12.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 27.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside