(Topic ID: 255155)
Linked Games
Haunted House
Gottlieb, 1982
Topic Gallery
Grayslake, IL
Ok, my dumb ass found the connector for the bottom of the driver board. It was hanging there in the cab, but the power connection is missing from the power supply to the MPU. As of right now, I have GI lights on the play field when I turn on the main switch, but that is it. No displays light up, no LEDs on the Power Supply, I assume all of this is because of the power cord I am missing. (I have ordered one already) I also don't have voltage at any of the test points on the power supply. Will I get those once I plug in the missing cord?
J2 on power supply to J1 on CPU board -- that is output from power supply and the absence of that cable won't affect LED's.
Check to see if you have good power coming into the power supply. Always make sure you have good power at TP4 BEFORE installing power J2 to CPU board cable.
LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Should be an unregulated 12V (ballparked at 12V).
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Should be regulated 5V (roughly within a half volt). Once you have a voltage at TP4, you can bump the voltage up or down with the potentiometer. Be careful doing this - going too high will trigger the crowbar circuit (SCR1). Crowbar circuit is an over voltage circuit that protects the CPU circuitry, it kills the 5V if it detects too high of a voltage. Only way to clear the crowbar is to shut machine off, turn pot back down and then turn on again. Once you get that going, dial in to about 5.05V.
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V.
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%.
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V).
Is the connector that connects to driver board's J4 tucked down into the machine still?
I will check all of those points before I proceed. The connector is now reattached. As a note I have replaced the following:
1) All 4 rectifiers by the transformer
2) recapped the power supply board, new diodes, new transistors as well.
3) Recapped all the pop bumper driver boards and modified with updated cap values.
The battery on my MPU was bad and I have not reinstalled a new one, will that effect boot up?
Are ther voltages to check on the fuses to verify as well?
Please advise.
Quoted from R8f1k:The battery on my MPU was bad and I have not reinstalled a new one, will that effect boot up?
No, just will not retain high score or credits.
Ok, so here is what I have:
TP4 = 5.02 VDC
LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.04VDC
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.01 VDC
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 86 VDC
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 70.01 VDC
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 52.2 VDC
Is the connector that connects to driver board's J4 tucked down into the machine still? Connected
More of the machine lights up, back box has lightning, displays will flicker, more lights come on for playfield, you can hear the coin door hold coils engage.
If you wiggle A2-J3, the playfield display will sometimes come on, but won't stay on.
Please advise
Wrong voltage at E2 --
E2 voltage is established by the voltage rating of zener diode CR5. CR5 is 62V +/- 5%. Worst case upper voltage for CR5 = 65.1V.
One of three things here:
1 -- CR5 is bad
2 -- CR5 is wrong value
or
3 -- bad solder joint at CR5.
He may have been damaged...
Or maybe --
can you make sure there is good conductivity (no resistance) between the E2 terminal and the cathode (banded end) of CR5?
And make sure there is good conductivity between CR5 anode (non-banded end) and ground?
Ok, I don't have an extra, is there a good substitute? I also have another power supply that works, but is not rebuilt. When I plug into J3 on either machine, I don't get the lightning feature or displays to light up. If you jiggle the connector on either board, the lighting starts, but not the displays. I am thinking that I need to repin this machine in a number of places. What do you recommend to get the process started? What components should I order from you? Do you offer new components to 'rebuild' a display? The glass looks good on all of units, but I was wondering if there are solid state components that would help the originals last longer.
Here are the readings from the old and not rebuilt power supply:
TP4 = 4.46VDC
LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 13.70VDC
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 4.46VDC
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 85.0VDC
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 65.3VDC
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 50.3VDC
The 2nd power supply looks to be running better than the first one, a tad high on the HV side but not bad. You will need to turn up the low voltage 5V potentiometer. Turn slowly to about 5.05 volts.
Does sound like you need to repin the plug. I would repin all three.
If you need to replace the plugs, easiest is to use CS156 style plugs as shown here:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=81
But these plugs were often the discrete crimp type plugs which means you can easily repin them.
Crimp contact, buy a few to practice with if you aren't familiar with this. Good, general purpose contact for power supply is 08-52-0113. Can also use 08-52-0072 which is often used within edge connectors as well.
And keys -- 15-04-0219. One per connector if you are replacing connectors instead of reusing.
If you need a crimper - 1026-CT is a good, entry level version.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=80
I also have the W-HT-1919 from waldom.
Some people swear by these... some people swear at them.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=59
As you progress along, you may find some edge connectors that need repinning. A choice of contacts for those can be found at the top of this page:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=77
Reusing the IDC plugs is possible but can be a bugger. As the replacements disappear, more people may be stuck using the original IDC plugs.
No replacement contacts for the black, double sided edge connectors. Connect/disconnect those plugs as little as possible.
No kits for the displays, not really anything to do to these. For the Gottlieb VFDs - if they're working, best to leave them alone.
Replaced CR5 and repined the power supply. Here are my readings:
LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.22VDC
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.009VDC
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 87.3VDC
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 69VDC
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 51.1VDC
When I turn on the machine, some coils fire, no displays working, and that is about it. Now all the back glass lights work and more of the play field GI's. I do NOT have the lower play field installed if that makes any difference in this process.
Please advise.
Will it start a game? Do you know if the displays are good? Every Sys80 I have had I did all the ground mods first, cleaned every contact, then fired it up. I am working on a Counterforce right now with similar issues. have you looked at the connections to the Displays? do they need to be re-flowed? I'd focus on 1 thing at a time. Does the test button start any of the tests? Lower PF shouldn't matter. I've had mine out of my HH and it still "worked"
When I first plugged the game in about a week ago, I was able to get the back glass displays to flicker. Now I get nothing. I applied 9 volts to each end pin on the glass and they lit up with orange stripes to 'burn off'. The displays have dark dots in the corner, not white dots, from what I hear that is good.
I am still running the original MPU to Driver board connector with out a second ground. I will modify tomorrow.
I have not cleaned any under the play field contacts. Should I start there or the grounds?
So the play field display will flicker on occasion, I could reflow all of them.
Replaced CR5 and repined the power supply. Here are my readings:
LV input -- Measure voltage between E4 and TP3. Mine = 14.22VDC
LV output -- if LV power in is good, measure voltage between TP4 and TP3. Mine = 5.009VDC
HV input -- measure voltage between E1 and TP3. Should be unregulated at about 76V. Mine = 87.3VDC
HV output (larger displays) -- measure voltage between TP1 and TP3. Should be 60V within about 5%. Mine = 69VDC
HV output (small display) -- measure voltage between TP2 and TP3. Should be 42V (should be voltage measured at TP1 minus 18V). Mine = 51.1VDC
When I turn on the machine, some coils fire, no displays working, and that is about it. Now all the back glass lights work and more of the play field GI's. I do NOT have the lower play field installed if that makes any difference in this process.
Please advise.
Lower PF shouldn't really matter for what you are doing, but it not being there will impact your voltage readings. Additionally, there is a relay that switches back and forth between the top and bottom playfield in attract mode. When you start a game, a second one affects coils (I believe this is the Q relay). If that relay isn't working as expected it may affect many of your coils working or not. (There are actually 3 of them that have 3 different functions toward the back right of the main pf.
Have the 2 big caps in the bottom of the cabinet been replaced? If they are still the orange ones(or light blue?), I suggest replacing them.
Many HH issues can be directly related to the main cable assembly not making good connections. Double/Triple check this.
pasted_image (resized).pngSo... apparently I am mixing up your conversation with another? When you turn it on - no displays (as you say). But I thought you said the machine would run but no displays? Or was this the other guy that said this? Apparently I'm not multitasking very well this weekend.
Voltages listed in post 22 are good enough to get you going.
Zablon made good recommendations.
I'd send you off to pinwiki to do power mods as mentioned but their site appears to have been hacked.
Caps have been replaced.
Will NOT start a game.
No displays, no coils, no service button function, none of the lights under the play field work only above GI.
No attract mode.
I do not have an upgraded main cable, what should I look for on the main cable? Should I reflow those contacts?
Reflowed the contacts on the MPU for the displays, no change, no displays.
Going to do the grounds tomorrow. Since I have no displays and it won't boot up a game, I feel like I am missing something beyond the grounds.
ONE, yes ONE insert lit up on the upper play field, no others anywhere. If I push on any of the three relays under the play field, the lights either switch off or in the case of the lower play field, they turn on.
Ok, maybe you guys think this is giving up, but I bought a Pascal PI-80 board to help with the project. I am going to keep these boards for now since I am also looking at a Black Hole and may need them. I am still only getting limited results from my dead machine. (This machine was COMPLETELY apart when I go it. Someone stripped everything to do a playfield swap, never happened and boxed it all up. It got RUSTY while sitting for 10 years and I bought it, it is now about 99% assembled) I am hoping that this board will eliminate most/all of my issues. I also am wondering what I should do BEFORE I install the new board to prevent any damage that may occur from something faulty on my machine. ANY info would be greatly appreciated!!!
5 months later
Quoted from R8f1k:Ok, maybe you guys think this is giving up, but I bought a Pascal PI-80 board to help with the project. I am going to keep these boards for now since I am also looking at a Black Hole and may need them. I am still only getting limited results from my dead machine. (This machine was COMPLETELY apart when I go it. Someone stripped everything to do a playfield swap, never happened and boxed it all up. It got RUSTY while sitting for 10 years and I bought it, it is now about 99% assembled) I am hoping that this board will eliminate most/all of my issues. I also am wondering what I should do BEFORE I install the new board to prevent any damage that may occur from something faulty on my machine. ANY info would be greatly appreciated!!!
Hey man I was reading your post, did you ever get it going?
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