(Topic ID: 21586)

Gottlieb System 3 upkicker stuck on

By blackheart

11 years ago


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#1 11 years ago

Cue Ball Wizard giving me fits. The top right upkicker is on constant. As a result the coil and assembly are cooking hot. I think it resulted in eventually blowing a fuse. I replaced the fuse before finding the hot upkicker. I have gone in and worked it by hand to see if I can "unstick" it to no avail. Where do I go from here?

Thanks!!

#2 11 years ago

Replace the coil sleeve or hole coil. Find the switch or transisor that causing the problem.

#3 11 years ago

Thanks justjoe. The way this thing works, is with a delay when a ball drops in the kicker. Ball enters, voiceover announces "nice bank shot", and the signal goes to the kicker to eject the ball. I will inspect the switch closely to insure it isn't making contact continuously. If it is not, then I assume the coil is next. Hope to find the issue before it traces clear back to a board.

#4 11 years ago

Switch appears to be fine. I am going to replace the coil, but I can't see where that is the issue. Can anyone tell me where to go next? I don't know much about what each board is controlling and could use help identifying the correct board to have repaired or replaced if the coil doesn't fix it.

#5 11 years ago

The bottom left board in your backbox is the solenoid driver board. It is best to have the manual/schematics so you can see what coils is associated with what specific transistor. You can test for a shorted transistor using a multimeter, but if you are not comfortable with boardwork, I would suggest having someone else do it.

You can also test the coil using a meter as well, but if you want to be overly cautious, replacing the coil and associated transistor(s) on the driver board isn't a bad idea.

#6 11 years ago

It also appears you have a Cactus Jacks in your collection. You can use that driverboard in the CBW to test as well. you run the risk of popping your transistor and related components if your coil is bad, but if you are just testing quickly, you likely won't short it out. Obviously, your assuming the risk doing it this way.

#7 11 years ago

Thanks Ralph. This is the first machine I have ever replaced anything more than bulbs/rubber in, so I am quite the novice. I have the manual, but making it through the schematics is a little confusing. New coil should be here in a couple days. I will install and see where I am at that point. If I can identify the correct transistor, I will replace it if the coil doesn't do it.

#8 11 years ago

I would use the old coil left in to check it out first. If the mosfet is bad then you could ruin your new coil.

#9 11 years ago

Well I tried. Put a new coil in. turned it on and the upkicker immediately fired and stayed fired. Thanks for the tip joe, i turned it off right away and now have to assume it is a board problem. Looks like a new MA1358 Gottlieb System 3 driver board is $105 (Rottendog from Mad Amusements). Would rather have it repaired if I can. Any direction anyone wants to send me in? I am assuming it's just one "Mosfet?" that needs replaced?

#10 11 years ago

If you can't find anyone locally, shoot me a PM and I will take care of it for you. You pay shipping both ways and we will call it good.

#11 11 years ago

If you have the schematic you could trace to which one it is. The parts are cheep and easy to replace.

#12 11 years ago

I have the schematic. My electrician buddy down the street is going to look at it for me. I can find it on the schematic, just can't translate to the board. We'll see what happens. I might be hollerin at you Ralph. Grateful for the support.

#13 11 years ago

So... I decided to replace the entire driver board with the Rottendog board. The upkicker is working great again. The reason I decided to change out the board was because of a quirky light problem, but the board didn't fix it. The game has two 7-bank drop targets representing solids and stripes in the top right and left of the playfield. Those targets have a light system on top of them with an individual light for each representative ball. When you knock down the targets on the solid side (left) the ball stays lit to let you know it has been hit. When all are dropped it resents and starts flashing and running it's patterns again. The stripes (right side) does not hold the solid on when you drop a target. Strange part is, that in attract mode every bulb works perfectly on both sides. Under test, each bulb again lights just fine. I had hoped the driver board was the logic behind the 7-bank drop target system. Maybe not? Any ideas?

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