(Topic ID: 256249)

Gottlieb System 3 Shaq Switch matrix row out

By junkyardjedi

4 years ago


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#5 4 years ago

With the power off, check continuity from the switch lug connected to one of the return wires to the Molex connector corresponding to that wire in the back box. If no continuity, you may have a broken wire somewhere, or maybe need to repin the connector. Check all switches in the row.

If there is continuity, then I would remove the Molex connector and (now with the power on) take a jumper wire and with the game in switch test mode, jump the send and return pins corresponding to each switch in that row. If they don’t register, then it seems like a board problem.

Note that I’m unfamiliar with this game and Gottliebs in general, but I assume they work in the same way. Someone more familiar with them can perhaps confirm.

If you are not sure how to do this, let me know, and I can provide more detail.

#7 4 years ago

Ok. On the games where I’ve done this, the connector on the board connects to a set of pins. Each pin corresponds to a row or a column on the switch matrix. You would need to look at the schematics to figure out which pins are which. If you take a jumper wire with alligator clips on the end and put a straightened out paper clip in the clips, you can use that to jump the pins on the board. You essentially want to have the send pin connect to the return pin corresponding to a particular switch. This simulates the switch being closed. It is a way to test if the board is working.

#9 4 years ago

Are there optos? If so, someone else better chime in as to whether there are separate opto boards that could be causing the problem.

However, you have described a problem with a whole row of switches. This wouldn’t affect the solenoids. What I said earlier was about trying to isolate whether there was a problem with the board or playfield. But, if there are separate opto boards, it may be a bit more complicated, and I would want someone else familiar with this game to chime in.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from gottlieb_fanatic:

See if this helps[quoted image]

Great info!

So, wait, the diodes are all on one board, not on individual switches?

#23 4 years ago

OP, are you not able to get into switch test mode at all? Because, if you are, the first thing to try is jumping the pins for the columns and rows like I said. The first article posted tells you how.

#26 4 years ago

Not the exact same issue, but similar concept. For you, you want to jump the pin for the row and the column for each switch in that row that is out. You won’t be going to ground. As I said, I put a paper clip in each alligator clip to help touch the pins since they are close together. Follow the instructions in the article. This is just an example of jumping pins to see if you have a board issue.

#27 4 years ago

To be more clear. The computer sends a signal out through one of the pins on the back box. That signal travels down the connector, through the wire and gets to the switch. When the switch is closed, the signal goes through the switch, back up the wire and back to the connector in the backbox where it connects to a different pin. So, if you jump those two pins, you are effectively closing the circuit and simulating a closed switch. There should be a pin for each column and a pin for each row. So, you need to find the appropriate column and row by looking at the schematics, and jump those two pins.

#35 4 years ago

I don’t know of this will make things clearer, but I first learned about jumping pins associated with the switch matrix in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seeking-switch-matrix-experts-weird-things-happening

TerryB was very helpful in helping me diagnose a problem of my own making. Halfway down the first page, he tells me how to jumper the pins. Of course, it is a different game, so you will need to look at your schematics and figure out how to do it on yours. But perhaps it helps a bit.

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