(Topic ID: 92226)

Gottlieb System 3 Fan Club: Haters need not apply ;)

By Gov

9 years ago


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  • 1,189 posts
  • 274 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 41 days ago by jtreehorn
  • Topic is favorited by 93 Pinsiders

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#969 1 year ago

Will a system 3 game like Street Fighter II start if it doesn’t detect all 4 balls?

#970 1 year ago

In the US what voltage selection is everyone using on their machines? Do you have it set to 110V or 120V? Looked like the default is 110V in the manual.

1 week later
#972 1 year ago

Working on my first System 3 machine and need to re-pin a few connectors. It looks like Gottlieb System 3 uses the 4.2mm Molex minifit connectors. Can anyone confirm that? Want to make sure I order the correct pins and extraction tool.

Thank You

#975 1 year ago

Thanks for the confirmation! Actually after looking over the game they all look good. I am going to need to install a new power cord and will probably need to crimp pins on the hot an neutral and reuse that connector shell.

2 months later
#1014 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I've got a Nightmare on Elm Street that has some sound issues. It seems to play fine at startup, but after a few minutes I will start hearing a random screetching noise sometimes and then at end of game it cycles through all the callouts over and over again (which also sound a little distorted).
Anyone else ever ran into this issue with their System 3? This is my first System 3 so this is going to be a learning process I'm sure.

I had a similar issue that I ran into and that one ended up being a flaky sound ROM. Can try reseating that first and also reseating the ribbon cable.

#1015 1 year ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

haha, yeah I wasn't expecting to win it, only ended up costing a few hundred, plus gas to go pick it up. I started pulling everything out this morning, to mitigate the mold situation on the bottom of the cabinet. Once I got everything out it wasn't bad to deal with at all. Before I did that I turned it on to see what it would do, the game powered up, I got GI, the game beeped once and I got garbage on the displays. My guess without going deeper is maybe bad eeproms or bad connection on the sockets? IDK, I'm going to dig into that a little later.
edit: I'd like to add that while my overall experience with Gottlieb has not been very positive, I will give them credit, it was very easy to remove the playfield and wiring harness. So much more so than any time I've done that on a Williams or Stern.

I've worked on a lot of the Williams, Bally, and Stern but Gottlieb definitely has some advantages. They fused just about everything on these System 3 games. Also the bottom of the playfield is usually well marked and at least on Stargate they added extra connectors so the drop target assembly can easily be removed to service it. Having the lamp boards which easily remove by pulling a couple clips make replacing those bulbs easy.

On these and the System 80 games I've beeb replacing the 500 ohm pot on the power board with the sealed multiturn precision version which seems a lot better than the originals.

#1018 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Which are you using? I hope someone buys GPE, lotta stuff I need to get!

I don't know if GPE carried the 500ohm precision multiturn pots. I just order those from Digikey or Mouser

1 week later
#1019 1 year ago

Have any of you used the optional communications adapter?

1 month later
#1039 1 year ago
Quoted from goofy1994:

Can anyone shed some light on this.......
After moving my machine from the basement (which requires back box removal), I hooked up the everything back up and powered up the game. Well at least I thought I had everything reconnected. Turns out I overlooked the P1 plug on the CPU board. I have playfield lighting but that is about it. The DMD is out and the game will not boot. I didn't smell anything burning, etc. and turned the game off rather quickly when I realized there was an issue. Any ideas on what may be wrong?

Just double check all the connectors are plugged in. Can you post pictures? Maybe someone can help spot something out of place.

#1041 1 year ago

How many of you have the optional communication adapter installed in your System 3 machine? They seem to be more popular in machines that were re-imports since I think the accounting was more strict overseas.

I pulled one out of a re-import that had a rusty DB-9 connector. Instead of fixing that I removed that connector and reworked the board to add a Bluetooth module. Now if I want to see the audits I can just connect my phone to the game. It works surprisingly well. I can leave it paired but as soon as I connect if the game isn't in a game it will generate the basic audits and send them to my phone then I disconnect. All without opening the coin door. If I want the full audits then I need to open the coin door and navigate to the audits and tell it to print the full audit when I connect the phone. I always disconnect after otherwise the game complains about removing the printer.

When I get a chance I plan on writing up the mod. I only have the one System 3 game but if I had others I would rename each Bluetooth adapter then it would be easy to connect to one at a time to pull audits.

#1045 1 year ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I find fairly often that unplugging cables will whack into the trim pot that manages the 5v. If it goes out of whack, you'll get symptoms like this.

This is one of the reasons I replace that trim pot with the sealed multiturn precision versions. That doesn't happen.

#1048 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just replaced my power supply board with the Boston Pinball one. Its not expensive and solves so many issues.
No trim pot, no more problems. I flicked 2 of the dip switches and have STABLE 5.1v always.
Im very happy with it.

I'm sure it is a fine board but the sealed Multiturn precision 500ohm replacement seems to take care of the issue. Plus it is cheap compared to a new board.

Once set they stay stable and the vibration doesn't affect it. Upgraded all of my Gottlieb games with them.

#1055 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It is, but the min game time should be turned to zero.

100% agree with this! Ran into this on a Street Fighter II and on Stargate. Thought something was wrong with the MPU or an odd switch issue where it would keep serving up balls even when you expected it to end. A short time for a ball saver is fine but that minimum game time was just annoying.

2 months later
#1073 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Quick tech question, if you ground the tab on one of the transistors and the coil actually functions, does that mean that there could still be a break in the traces, or does that rule it out?
The coil functions when grounded, but in test mode and in game I cannot get it to fire. It is Solenoid 6 on Shaq Attaq. It uses an opto to activate it. The opto works just fine.
Some background, this is a German reimport, and the coil was fried. It seems to be a somewhat common issue on Shaq Attaq. The transistor was burnt to a crisp, really bad damage on the board. I fixed it, crudely. Trying to figure out if the traces were destroyed when it burnt up long ago, or if perhaps there is some disconnect between the switch matrix/MPU and the driver board? I’ve been staring at this problem on and off for months; maybe I’m missing the trees for the forest here.

Maybe it took out and damaged the 74HC273 driving it at U1 or the 2.2K resistor driving that transistor or a trace is open. Will have to check each one against the schematic. I’ve seen people solder in a new transistor but the through hole plating was damaged and it only got soldered on one side leaving an open on the top. In that case the top needs to be soldered manually too.

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