Quoted from robgo777:

Greetings Everyone,
This is Rob from Pinshakers and I have some good news for you. We are getting ready to release the next version of our shaker kits and they will be compatible with most of the Gottlieb System 3 lineup! Beta testing was completed on a Stargate and the results are amazing.
An official announcement will go out as soon as the kits are released. In the meantime we need your help. Since the manuals for Gottlieb are unavailable for download, we have no idea what the trigger names are for each machine title. If you happen to have a manual for one of the machines in this line-up, could you please PM or email us the solenoid list. It should be located on the page for "Vll Parts Information" in a small section called "Solenoid, Driver Functions/Locations". That lists all of the solenoids/flashlamps and their names. Our email address is [email protected] in case you are unable to PM images on pinside.
Please do not post any images of the manual here in the forum. They are copyrighted material and we want to respect that. We will not post or distribute the images you send us and they will be deleted once we get the information we need in order to complete the user manuals for the shaker kits.
Here is a list of all the machines that will be compatible with our shaker kits upon release:
Barb Wire
Cactus Jack's
Car Hop
Class of 1812
Cue Ball Wizard
Deadly Weapon
Frank Thomas' Big Hurt™
Freddy A Nightmare on Elm Street
Gladiators
Hoops
Lights...Camera...Action!
Mario Andretti
Operation: Thunder
Rescue 911
Shaq Attaq
Silver Slugger
Stargate
Street Fighter II
Super Mario Bros.
Surf 'n Safari
Tee'd Off
Title Fight
Vegas
Waterworld
Wipe Out
World Challenge Soccer
Thank you so much for your assistance, we can't wait to get these kits out to you guys!
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers LLC
www.pinshakers.com

Quoted from finalquest:

Hi guys.
I'm trying to put an operation thunder back to life.
It was used as spare for other pinballs. I have all the boards, all the playfield parts.
But, no wire harness from transformer panel to playboard. No backbox.
It came with a transformer/power supply and the matching wire harness, that didn't match the schematic for operation thunder. So I suspect back then that was a replacement from a donor machine.
I manage to put back all the boards, and I got all bootup and with some sound.
When I try to reconnect the display I realised that the transformer was indeed from another machine, but sadly from a System3 with a DMD display. So I dont have the 36V and the 9V for the alphanumeric display.
I'm having a hard time getting a transformer with the correct output.
Is it possible to rewire a System3 power supply/transformer in a way that allows me to connect the alphanumeric display?.
Maybe someone has an idea and can point me with some resources.
Regards

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Hey guys. I put my Nudge-It out on location and immediately it’s giving me issues.
Never had a problem sitting in the shop. Left it on for hours and hours! Now it says “remove JP2 + add JP1” never see this before. It’s not in attract mode or anything. It is just stuck. Whenever you turn it off and turn it back on it adds a credit?
Any suggestions for this weird behavior?

Quoted from JethroP:

RESOLVED. Needs 2 balls in the machine to start. Nowhere in the manual or on the machine does it say that!

Quoted from zacaj:

Ahem!
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Quoted from zacaj:

the display itself is the same regardless of manufacturer. There's corrosion on the display? That's weird. Probably not worth repairing though, just get another cheap dmd

Quoted from barakandl:

Some of those traces look like they could be severed.
I would knock off some of the corrosion with a wire brush to see where you are and then make a choice if you want to start patching traces or not. It is probably not worth the effort if a bunch have corroded open.
Your non booting game is probably not connected to the battery damage on the display board.

Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Never thought I would, but I guess I'm joining the club. Bought a car hop on an online auction, not a game I'm looking for but the price was right and I need a project. The boards and the playfield seem to be in decent shape, but the cabinet is ROUGH. Bottom of the cabinet is very moldy, so I'm going to have some work to do there.
Never been a huge fan of Gottlieb, some of their games are fun but I don't much care for their mechs and stuff like that. Who knows maybe I'll learn to love it!
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Quoted from Rolpa:

Anyone have any experience with dialing in a vari-target on a System 3? I just got an Operation Thunder a little while ago, and while it's a fun game I'm having trouble getting the vari on the right side to work completely properly. I was playing with the spring tension and I could make it one of either two ways: loose enough that the coil/mech that releases the 'teeth' but not tight enough to return the target to it's resting position, or vice versa - there was enough tension to return the target to rest, but it was too much for the coil/mech to release it's grip on the tooth, so the target just stays stuck. This is super annoying since hitting that target is necessary to progress through the modes. What am I doing wrong?

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I've worked on a lot of the Williams, Bally, and Stern but Gottlieb definitely has some advantages. They fused just about everything on these System 3 games. Also the bottom of the playfield is usually well marked and at least on Stargate they added extra connectors so the drop target assembly can easily be removed to service it. Having the lamp boards which easily remove by pulling a couple clips make replacing those bulbs easy.
On these and the System 80 games I've beeb replacing the 500 ohm pot on the power board with the sealed multiturn precision version which seems a lot better than the originals.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

How many of you have the optional communication adapter installed in your System 3 machine? They seem to be more popular in machines that were re-imports since I think the accounting was more strict overseas.
I pulled one out of a re-import that had a rusty DB-9 connector. Instead of fixing that I removed that connector and reworked the board to add a Bluetooth module. Now if I want to see the audits I can just connect my phone to the game. It works surprisingly well. I can leave it paired but as soon as I connect if the game isn't in a game it will generate the basic audits and send them to my phone then I disconnect. All without opening the coin door. If I want the full audits then I need to open the coin door and navigate to the audits and tell it to print the full audit when I connect the phone. I always disconnect after otherwise the game complains about removing the printer.
When I get a chance I plan on writing up the mod. I only have the one System 3 game but if I had others I would rename each Bluetooth adapter then it would be easy to connect to one at a time to pull audits.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Maybe it took out and damaged the 74HC273 driving it at U1 or the 2.2K resistor driving that transistor or a trace is open. Will have to check each one against the schematic. I’ve seen people solder in a new transistor but the through hole plating was damaged and it only got soldered on one side leaving an open on the top. In that case the top needs to be soldered manually too.

Quoted from EJS:

Just picked up Cue Ball Wizard serial number 97007 and someone stamped it 3 times and corrected it with a sharpie as it was stamped 97006. All of this in the cash box area.
I’ve never cared to take note of SN but noticed on ipsndb that 97— is as low as it goes.
Anything I should look for in terms of it being an early game?
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Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Working on a Vegas. It boots and plays just fine. If you let the game sit in attract mode it will freeze after a while. Toggling power brings it right back. Whats do you guys reccomend to resolve this? I plan on doing the ground mods from pinwiki soon. What else should I look at?
Thanks for the help.

Quoted from mannymasy:

Good evening....I want to know what you think of the Gottlieb hoops machine? do you like it? Greetings

Quoted from JarekC:

I bought a Gottlieb Hoops flipper, unfortunately without legs.
I can't find information whether the legs are 27" or 31".
Can anyone measure them in own pinball machine?

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Maybe some insight can be gained from my adventure:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-woes

Quoted from ChapDDR:

Posted this a couple of weeks ago in The Gladiators club, but this might be a more generic Sys 3 problem.
My game suffered from missing DMD animations (blank screen) during specific states, ranging from being in some modes to triggering only on one of the four options being selected in the main menu (cycling would lead to image, image, blank, image etc.) At that time the game also suffered from false-positive ball-through opto hits, with the game thinking that the ball was not in play, while it was.
I saw somewhere that a factory reset solved random issues, and what are the odds, a factory reset solved every issue. However, after a couple of plays the DMD issues start re-appearing. So animations are visible for a while, while at a later point the state led to a blank screen. Repeating the factory reset fixes it temporarily.
Any idea what could be the cause?
I still need to replace my battery

Quoted from Rahxephon1:

Hello,
I just bought my first Gottlieb (Gladiators).
It looks amazing and works 100% for what I can tell.
I just found out it will be a bit hard to find a manual.
Anyone knows about one in Europe or if it's possible to get a digital version?
Also which pinbsll suppliers have the most stock for Gottliebs of this era?
Thanks a lot!
Andrej
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Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I’ll take a look. This has been frustrating. The game was at an event and did great. I brought it back and it immediately blew the fuse. Found that an IC on the driver was cracked. Just got it replaced and socketed and now the fuse is still blowing.
I manually checked every switch and lamp and there are no shorts. No idea what would be blowing F6.
When the Driver was replaced, it blew. When the CPU was replaced, it blew.
It could be on the playfield, but I’m not seeing any issues. Should I also try unplugging every smart switch? Could that really blow the 10a slow blow fuse?

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Which IC? The schematic should show what section the IC is in.

Quoted from Rahxephon1:

Will a Gottlieb flipper fail without a functioning EOS, or is it like a Williams Bally?
Any advice would be incredibly welcome.
Kind regards
Andrej