Had something interesting happen to my Rescue 911 yesterday. I just got the game and I checked the power supply voltage and it was 5.9 at the power supply and at the P-1 connector that goes to the control board. I turned the game off and pulled the power supply to clean the 5 volt pot with contact cleaner, reflowed solder to the power supply header pins and made sure everything was tight and reinstalled. Adjusted the 5 volts with the boards isolated from the power supply first to get it to 5.01 volts. Then I plugged the top power supply connector back in and tested the volts at 5.01 at the control board. I was playing my second test game and it just completely went dark no power at all. So I started at the line cord and verified 120 volts. Tested all the fuses inside the cabinet and they were good. Checked the two fuses on the power supply inside the cabinet. The 2nd one was blown. It was a 2.5 amp slo blow. I replaced it and the game powered on and worked fine. It has been working fine ever since.

Ok the fuse keeps blowing inside the cabinet. I forget what fuse its labeled as but it's right inside the coin door to the right . There is two fuses in black round holders. It is the one on the right. It's a 2.5 amp fuse. It doesn't blow as soon as the game is turned on. Normally happens in the middle of a game. I did just reflow the solder to the power supply in the backbox and adjust the 5 volts from 5.9 to 5.01. It started happening after that so I am not sure if it's a coincidence or not. There is no header pins touching or anything from my solder touch up. I think I am slightly smelling something burning when the game is on. Any ideas what to check. No other fuses are blowing.

Thank you I will check this when I get home. I can just swap my power supply from a working game and see if it blows. If it blows with that one in I know it's not something with the power supply. Thanks

What I have done so far, I ordered replaced 5 volt pots for both my Got sys 3 games. I swapped the power supply from a working system 3 freddy into this game. I left it in attract mode for 1/2 hour nothing happened. Fuse then blew when I was cycling through the solenoid tests in test mode. Seems like it only seems to blow when the game is playing or flippers are activating. I did notice when in test menu that each time I hit the flipper to cycle through the modes, the back box lights would kinda get dim. Not sure if that is normal or not. Now the fuse I had in there was a 1 1/2 amp instead of a 2 1/2 amp because i am out of 2 1/2 amp fuses but that is not the issue as it did blow a 3 amp fuse one time. I felt around on the cpu board, driver board ect for anything getting hot. The only thing besides the top row of transistors on the driver board is the yamaha ym2151 chip on the top left board directly above the ribbon cable. It was getting pretty warm, almost similar to the amplifier heat sinks warm. Not sure if this is normal, I guess I can check my freddy to see if that chip gets warm on there or not.

I guess to check for voltage ripple I would probe the p1 connector on the power supply with a multi meter and turn the game on and play it and watch the voltage output by the power supply?

Ok I will give this a try...still waiting on my fuses from Amazon. Sometimes the Prime is not so prime.... They were supposed to be here yesterday.

In the meantime I looked at my manual in the fuses section and noticed something I never seen before. The fuse that came out of F-2 (assuming the 2nd fuse on the power module where the service outlet is indeed F-2) was a 2 1/2 amp slow blow. According to my manual, F-2 is supposed to have a 5 amp slow blow. Now my game is an export game that was reimported. It has a 220v power module in the front right of the cabinet. The service plug on the power module is also a 220 style round plug.

It appears when I got the game, it had the green jumper plug installed, which according to the chart is for 220v. However after further inspection, it appears that someone changed the pinout of this green 220 jumper to match 120v pinout. If you compare both of my jumpers in the attached photo, they appear to have been changed to 120 pinout. Compare these to Section 5.5 of this link for a photo of a 120v orange jumper. Both of my pinouts match this. http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3

Now according to my manual F-2 is supposed to be a 2 1/2 amp slow blow IF THE GAME IS SET UP FOR 220v. But if it is receiving 110v, a 5 amp slow blow is to be used. Please see the attached picture from my manual.

I want to make sure my thinking is correct before I just go sticking a 5 amp fuse where a 2 1/2 was possibly incorrectly installed?!? Maybe that was my only issue then? When I got the game they had the 5 volts cranked up to 5.9!! I lowered it to 5 like it should be and that is when the fuses started blowing. Please let me know your thoughts are. I also included a photo of the power module. If you look the 2nd fuse holder is removed. This is the fuse that keeps blowing. Is this indeed F-2 fuse? If so, it should have a 5 amp in and not a 2 1/2?
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Pretty sure the game was just underfused. I looked at my freddy pin and it has a 5 amp slow blow in f-2 spot. I put a 5 amp in the rescue 911 pin and was able to play a couple of game on it without it blowing a fuse, also don't smell anymore burning so I think I got lucky and this was just an under fuse issue. I decided to check all the other fuses and found a couple that were over fused and two others that were underfused. F1 has a 4 amp in it which is what it should have for 220v but since its now 120 it should have a 8 amp in. Looks like who ever got it after it got here from spain never swapped those two fuses up to convert from 220 to 120.

If you have the door open it will show the tournament mode screen. Once the coin door is closed, it should go into normal attract mode and show the high scores ect. If yours is staying on the tournament mode screen, then maybe your door switch is not working

anyone know where the resistor for the playfield flashers would be on a system 3. I am having issues with an additional sets of flashers tryign to go off at the same time as another set and am wanting to check the resistor. Manual says there is one in the backbox and one somewhere else

Is there a place to purchase or buy rom revision updates for system 3 games? Since Gottlieb pretty much got rid of people sharing their roms is there any alternatives? I am would like to upgrade to the most recent revision. Also looking towards the future for preservation as well. What if I had a eprom go dead, would I pretty much be up the creek without a paddle? If so it would probably be worth it, for me to pull the eproms and make copies of them for my own personal use to preserve the game.

What type of bolts/nuts whatever is supposed to help hold the back box on. Neither of my Gottlieb games came with the hardware. My one game does have bolts that stick up through the bottom of the back box but I don't have what is supposed to go on there. A