Quoted from mbaumle:

In my game, yes, they were the same thing. Just rebuilt them the other day and, it too, had plenty of hacks from the previous owner. When I bought my rebuild kit, it came with the EOS switches pre-soldered to the filter capacitor which was all attached to the EOS plate. It was probably the easiest replacement ever. Everything just dropped right into place.

Quoted from BentleyBear:

Just soldered on som new eos switches on my lights,camera,ction but the old one on the right wasn't soldered the same as the left ones so i need to know if i got it right.Would be a big help if someone could take a picture of the right flipper coil with the wires and eos switch so i can compare it to mine

Quoted from wayout440:

For flipper, check for dirty contacts/not making firm contact on flipper cab switch and EOS switch, check for broken supply voltage wire, use a DMM to see if you have DC voltage on the flipper coil terminal
For ball eject, enter coil test mode. Find out if that is the only coil not working. Check for DC supply voltage at the coil terminal. If you do, briefly ground the coils trigger wire, it should fire. If it does, the transistor switch that grounds the coil is likely bad or a connector problem.

Quoted from wayout440:

Some sparking is normal, and actually a sign that you are getting a current path. Look at the contact faces that touch together, should be shiny. If they are dull and pitted, covered with oxide or corrosion then they will need attention. Usually involving filing the contact faces, but best if the switch is replaced. Sometimes they are bad beyond cleaning them up.