If I recall correctly, NVRAM does not work on System 3.
tried to get one for Wipeout last year but was informed that it is not supported.

Just got a Waterworld for a good price but I'm on the hunt for a playfield now. This one is passable, but the rest of the game is too nice for how bad the pf is

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nvram-gottlieb-system-3-success

Working on a friends stargate. Backbox LEDs look great. Turn on yesterday and I sometimes get a brief flicker but no back box lights. Fuse f8 tested fine but I put new one in. Nothing. I Checked continuity from light wiring to connector and I think my wiring in back box is fine. Any ideas?

Knowing that ColorDMD doesn't support Gottlieb machines, yet. Has anyone tried Pin2DMD to make their own Color DMD for Gottlieb pins? I think it might be an interesting thing to try for my Tee'd Off.

Same problem with my Freddy, my flashers work

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/make-street-fighter-ii-great-again

GI relays in the bottom of the game, one for playfield and one for backbox, start there is the fuse is good. I have had a few system 3s where those are very dirty or need adjusting... check the plastic armature to make sure the blades are opening and closing well..

The A relay is the one for the back box gi. I have made sure it was adjusted right, maybe I'll try cleaning it again, what's a good method of cleaning?

thx guys!

I'll personally be going with either a Pin2DMD or GiantDOTS on my SMB
I've installed a ColorDMD but there are very inconsistent results. Not sure if anyone else has had better luck but here's my Mario Bros.

I didn't know this was even possible after I inquired about learning how to colorize my Tee'd Off for ColorDMD and was told that Gottlieb's were not supported yet. How did you connect this to your SMB? What would it look like in Dots, DotsXL or maybe even 8 bit. I connected a ColorDMD to my STTNG and am very happy with it and would enjoy learning how to install and colorize my Tee'd Off.
Until then, I am hoping someone can post more information about how involved it is to color the DMD with the Pin2DMD editor.

Great video.

Hey guys, my A relay is working for the back box lights, if I turn the game on with the playfield up I can watch it click, it clicks on and off every few seconds, which I'm assuming is normal, but it's working and my back box lights are still not. (Flashers are working)

So where do I go from here?

from Bob Kane who is awesome:

1) fuse f8
2) relay Q28 locked on?
3) wiring/connector
4) bad socket...(this is worst to diagnose)

The SIGMA WPC framer isn't currently set up correctly for Gottlieb and Capcom, but I think I can turn off a switch that should resolve the issues you're seeing. If you send me your email, I can send you a ROM to test.

Randy

Clicking on and off only tells you half the story of a relay. That tells you the solenoid part of the relay is working. You need to get a meter on the terminals to check if voltage is coming in to the switching part of the relay, and then check the terminals coming out for presence of voltage when the solenoid is engaged.

Well the fuse tests good. And the relay is after the fuse in the chain. The relay is not locked on I'm watching it work.

Wiring looks great. How do I diagnose bad socket

Ok cool I'll check voltage

I'm new to this so help me out. Tested using A.C. on meter.

On the two green/white wires. I get 50v when the switch is open. And 0 when it's closed

On the switch contacts I get 3.8 at all times

20170524_130916 (resized).jpg

My backbox issue is fixed. Contacts were filthy cleaned up and back box nice and bright

What did u clean them with?

Can I ask what u cleaned them with

Business card. And very light sand paper. I don't think they are plated so hope it was ok.

I cleaned mine with that method as well as a little rubbing alcohol before I tried the sanding method, no change.

You could jumper the wires at switch lugs to see if switch is faulty

Check continuity to wiring in back box?

I tried to jump it with no luck, im guessing its the switch. Anyone know where to find one? Hopefully maybe steve from PBR has one

If you jumper it and it still does not work. Then it's not the switch.

Ok so what's next haha

Well, that doesn't seem right at all. If you had the proper voltage there, and got it at all times, then your lights would be on all the time. You have to look at your schematic and find the common line and measure from common to the 6VAC line, which is the one that the switch makes or breaks. If you truly only have 3.8 VAC, that's probably not a high enough voltage to run the lamps. If if is enough to run the lamps and you have it on both switch contacts, then you have a break after the relay switch.

Here's a pic from my CBW schematics. I'm not sure that your game is the same, but it probably is. Connector A12 pin 2 from the transformer is the common for the 6VAC GI. Pins 3 & 12 are switched by the the "A" relay on the relay panel for the lightbox

unnamed (resized).jpg

Here's my diagram

20170525_222246 (resized).jpg

Can anyone take a picture of the top left gate on a Freddy. Mine is missing and just got one but not sure what position it is in when it's not activated.

U mean the diverter? Hard to get a pic of

20170525_231022 (resized).jpg

20170525_231209 (resized).jpg

Thanks, that's what I needed. I'm guessing this is in the normal "rest" position. And when activated it swings down?

Yes correct because in this position the ball will go entirely around the loop. When it is activated it swings down so the ball with either go into freddy's head if hit from the left, or the upkicker if hit from the right

Just got a Tee'd Off. It "boots" but it will only show the top scores then a pause, then the Premier logo and then resets. LEDS on MPU and DMD controller blink during this process but then glow steady right before it resets. From Clay's guide it could be the 6264, the dallas SRAM or the 74HC123AN... I hate shotgunning... has anyone seen this before and remember the resolution.

Thanks!

Lot of problems popping up on this waterworld (deez not sensing balls, diverters not working).
Gonna be a tricky one.

Gate installed and Freddy is now 100% for the first time since I owned it.

IMG_3698 (resized).JPG

Pinball at Riviera is such an afterthought, just to pickup gamblers remaining change, and casual non gamblers waiting around. Kind of sad, I'd rather see them sell them off to local collectors that would give them the attention they deserve.

Hi All! Is it possible to swap the LM338 with a PSU7 or another variant from EZSBC? I'm thinking of changing out the regulator on my CBW.

http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu7.html

Anyone have a used working sound board for a system 3 game?

Why? GPE still has 338's

To reduce some heat.

Anybody have a spare Gladiators playfield? Does not have to be NOS or populated.

Need some help with my Class of 1812.
Right flipper does not work and the ball won't eject when i start a game.
I have checked the fuses but they are ok.
Anyone here that could tell me what to do next ?

Anyone have any tips ?

For flipper, check for dirty contacts/not making firm contact on flipper cab switch and EOS switch, check for broken supply voltage wire, use a DMM to see if you have DC voltage on the flipper coil terminal

For ball eject, enter coil test mode. Find out if that is the only coil not working. Check for DC supply voltage at the coil terminal. If you do, briefly ground the coils trigger wire, it should fire. If it does, the transistor switch that grounds the coil is likely bad or a connector problem.

Thanks.I'll look into it.Just before the right flipper went dead i saw some blue sparks on the switch when i pressed the flipperbutton.

Some sparking is normal, and actually a sign that you are getting a current path. Look at the contact faces that touch together, should be shiny. If they are dull and pitted, covered with oxide or corrosion then they will need attention. Usually involving filing the contact faces, but best if the switch is replaced. Sometimes they are bad beyond cleaning them up.

I have a smart switch (multiball standup) acting up on my freddy. It doesn't register every hit. The contacts are nice and shiny and gapped correctly, where do I go from here