I should be getting a Tee'd off pretty soon so I can join the club, I'll post up when it arrives

Most said not to get a Tee'd Off and get a NGG instead. I am surprised how much I contiue to enjoy this machine.

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The one i might be getting is a friend of mines, I've played it for quite some time, it's a great game and I'm surprised so many people dislike it. The only thing missing from this is the topper but I can't fit it in my garage anyways so I'm not to bummed

Well I got it! It has new glass which is a nice treat, was rubbered a couple weeks ago, so I'm just gonna enjoy it now

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The glass is on in this photo

* I need to install new plates in the cabinet for the leg bolts. The front left and back right have 2 broken bolts still inside. This is my only issue with the game, does anyone know which plates I can buy for this? pinball life and marco sell them but they say williams bally on them, idk if that will work?

Hey guys, need a little help still...

I'm doing a full teardown shop job on a class of 1812 and nearly complete, just waiting for rubbers and posts to arrive today to finish it. While I've had the game apart, waiting for parts, everything worked fine for over a week, I just rebuilt both flippers and both tested good then I called it a night.

Next day I turn the game on to find that no solenoids fire, banks aren't resetting, flippers don't work, I can't add additional players to the game, etc.

What does work is the GI lights, sound efx from touching the pop bumper skirt, slings and the tilt bob. But all other rollover switches, targets, etc are dead.

I've looked high and low for a short, re-soldered the last flipper I worked on before the inactivity just to be safe, checked the F8 and main fuse, reseated all connectors, and made sure none of the dangling connectors from the PF missing ramps and parts are touching anything they shouldn't.

What I did find last night is that when I push the Q relay switch bracket to open the switch and keep it there, the flippers can be fired, slings kicker can be triggered and the pops fire. But still adding players and a lot of other actions are dead still. Once I let go of the relay switch it all goes back to inactive.

Anyone have any thoughts or had a similar situation that they miraculously found a cure? I'm open to all suggestions...

My next step is to just continue on with rebuilding the PF today with these parts and see how it acts once everything is back together and plugged in.

Gotta love the twists and turns of pinball!!!

What's the correct leg length for teed off? I have 27 in front, what's the proper rear leg??

Hard to tell, with Gottliebs you can do some damage if you short coil voltage to the switch matrix, also the lamp matrix and switch matrix share a strobe line, so you can do damage there too. Start with looking at your circuit boards, make sure the lights are blinking, and see if you can get the game into test mode, you will know more then.

Teed' off is great. I like it better than NGG.

Tee'd Off and most Gottliebs of the time took 27" legs. Mine had 28 1/2" legs (standard for most other pins) when I bought it. It stood very tall and felt strange to play. I bought new legs from The Pinball Resource. Steve Young is a great guy and has many Tee'd Off specific parts. I've replace many of the LEDs and the entire back box lights. Replaced dozens of post screws and fixed many other issues. I also replaced the 5 golf balls with plastic practice balls I bought at Walmart, so mine don't have the silver tees under them any more. Pinball resource has tees too. ? My gopher topper motor seems quite loud, but some say that's normal. I too find I enjoy playing it and have not gotten board as many say happens. Enjoy it.

I live down the road from PB resource, I used to go there a bunch when I had pins in the past. I should call him

What size legs are supposed to be on Sys3 games? I can't be 100% certain my Big Hurt came with the right ones. The legs it came with are the same length as my B/W and DE games... but this GTB sits a good 1-2" higher and just looks dumb.

Thing is, I've seen this with other Sys3 games too. But maybe over the years it's easy to mix up legs in transport and storage and such and folks don't realize they might have been different?

Or did GTB want their games to sit higher to stand out more? But this seems dumb from a playability and comfort aspect...

Pretty sure these are the legs for 1980+ gottlieb's?

PBR sold me LEG-27C on mine.

Thanks for the response and insight!

I went through the game with a fine tooth comb, reseated many connectors and repositioned wires and was able to get the game to work 100%. I have a few wrinkles to iron out like the this right flipper fluttering after just rebuilding it, but that's about it.

It's nice to be able to play a game on a freshly shopped 1812. Titan rubbers are flinging the ball with speed and it's hallengibg and fun.

Thanks to all who sent advice or help along the way.

Gottlieb made it a bit messy here for the dot matrix system 3 games. Some use 27", others 31". Some manuals are listing the length of the legs, some don't. Big Hurt uses 27" legs, Star Gate 31"..... You can judge it by the position of the holes for the bolts of the legs. If they are postioned almost at the bottom, use 27" legs. If they are somewhere halfways, use 31" legs.

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My Cactus Jack's had a defective head lock (the kind that goes on the side of the cabinet head and has the long bar inside) so I drilled it out. I got a new lock from Steve Young's but it's a different size. The old one the threaded barrel is 3/4 inch the new one is about 5/8. Which is correct?

Also, I'm selling it to a guy at Pinagogo who will transport it to LA. Is it OK to do that without a lock installed? If so, should we take the translite out?

Thanks!

BobC

It's the type of head where the speakers swing back at an angle to hold the translite in....but you probably already know that

If you figure this one out, let me know! My Super Mario Bros. is doing the same thing. I took off the apron and found that the outhole kicker was kicking the drained Ball 1 too hard into the other balls. Ball 1 would bounce off the balls, go back through the gate, and hit the outhole switch again. Then it would get kicked back up the trough, hitting the balls again which would release the second ball.

I replaced the resistance spring in the outhole kicker thinking maybe that was bad, but still having problems. Going to try replacing the trough gate next because when the ball goes through it, sometimes it does not fall back down like it should to block the ball going backwards. Anyway, hope that helps!

I figured mine out. What was happening for me and I believe this is what you're describing, is that when ball 1 drains, it hits the drain switch to signal that ball is over, and as it would get kicked to the right into the trough it was smacking the second ball that was already sitting there waiting to be pushed into the shooter lane and bouncing back into the drain switch signaling for it to be kicked over again. By that time, the second ball would already be pushed into the shooter lane, but since the first ball re-triggered that drain switch it acted as if it was a launched ball and drained without hitting a PF switch performing a "ball save" and in essence pushing both balls into the shooter lane. Sorry for the tongue twisted explanation there!

For me, the smaller switch to the right was kind of sitting crooked, and so it was holding the second ball in a way where it wasn't properly resting against the gate to the right and was sitting too far to the left and causing the balls to smack.

What I did was take that smaller switch to the right and I squared it up in the middle and gave it a semi-firm push down to realign itself to not be crooked. It now sits more evenly in its hole so to speak. Now, each ball is kicked over without interfering with each other and all is well. It was seriously just an inch off and that caused the issue.

I hope this helps! PM me if you need pics or any other help.

How the hell did you figure that out? Ive spent hours trying to figure out why I keep getting two balls on second ball. Going to have to look into what all you said.

Ah, that would explain it... the ones it came with are 28.5" - the same seeimgly "universal" length on all my other games, so I didn't question it at first.

Curses! Now I have to find shorter legs for too! <firstworldproblems>

Remember, system 3 games really want to see all the balls to start. the game will start and flash zeros for a while, and look for the balls, but not very hard like a WPC would, some games only fire a coil or two. Make sure your trough switches are working properly in test. In your instance above, it could fully be mechanical as you suspect, that gate has to work right.... davebart has it figured out..

All trough switches are working and the game registers 3 balls to start, but during play I would get this issue intermittently after a ball drains. Davebart set me on the right path though! I am going to try to press down the switch that the balls rest on to make sure it is not crooked and interfering with the balls at rest.

Glad I am not the only one having this problem too!

Haha it was just a matter of standing there with the apron off, sending ball after ball after ball through the trough system and seeing where the hang up was.

I finally noticed that there was a little real estate for the second ball to shift right some more, and the switch it was sitting on was kinda crooked. Sure enough when I manually pushed it over some more, the recently drained ball performed better when it wasn't hitting the other ball. Then I decided to push that switch down and there you have it. The second ball waiting to for the shooter took up that real estate and the rest is history.

My friend managed to get it working with another lock I bought. The bar assembly had been rebuilt wrong by somebody too.

Anyone have an extra Freddy upper left ball gate?

So far this is my high score on Tee'd Off.

Anyone have a topper for sale?

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Good scoring. That score will put you in the top 10 on Pinside. Set this high score this week. No super jackpots. 2 extra balls. Skins double from 400 to 800k.
Luckily, mine came with Gunther. Though the motor sure makes a lot of noise when he moves.

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Sweet now I got something to shoot for!!

Is there a video anywhere of what he does when he moves?

My game is on tournament settings because my test button isn't working but the tournament switch does. And the small pcb is sold out online for a new one.

I didn't get skins bonus in that game but I got 11 hole in 1s and 2 lightning strike multiballs

If you decide to put a color dmd or a pin2dmd led display in your gottlieb (stargate:freddie, etc), I made a video on removing the red gel paint from the display. Credit to pinsider nerbflong

hey, curious what leds did you end up using?

i been trying to buy from comet but they are ALWAYS out of stock.

Great video! Thanks for doing it!

For masking, I used frog tape and it did pretty well.

The playfield was converted to LEDs before I bought it. It has color matching insert LEDs. I didn't really like the GI lighting of the natural white flat top LEDs so I replaced most of the ones in the playfield with Blue, Green and Yellow LEDs.
The good looking ones, Blue and Yellow, I ordered from Comet.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm (these are needed I guess because Gottlieb has smaller playfield holes)
The Green ones I bought off ebay along with some Yellow ones which I decided not to use. They were pretty cheap and don't give off the best light compared to the Comet LEDs.
The larger flasher bulbs for GI and the backbox were already LEDs and look fine.
The backbox was still incandescent when I bought it and I replaced all of them with LEDs from Comet too.
The Rounds golfball was a mismatch of different LEDs, so I replaced them with the Comet LEDs I also used in the backbox. (after replacing the golfballs with some white practice balls I got at Walmart
Tee'd Off is interesting in that it uses all 44/47 bayonet bulbs.

I had this issue on my Stargate after cleaning it. In my case the problem turned out to be I had put the one-way gate in the trough too far to the right. There was actually another set of holes for the gate to the left of where I had inserted it. Because of this, the 4th ball in the trough wouldn't pass the one-way gate and would often fall back down to the drain switch, causing the same situation you described. Moving the gate to the proper position fixed the issue for me.

Anyone install NVRAM in a system 3 yet? Just tried it and having boot up problems. Jumpers are correct for 6264 ram replaced with ramtron fm1608-120-pg Now boots up showing scores as 00. CPU led will blink for a few seconds then goes out ans starts blinking again.
Won't credit up or go into test mode.
https://www.facebook.com/scott.mcdonald.33671/videos/1531342663563025/

Put the old ram and battery back in and it works. So I know it's not a board problem. Just doesn't like the nvram. Any thoughts?

I did a coin taker kit in my waterworld and loved it. Gottlieb inserts really pop nicely.

Stargate and Freddy are now up and fully working. Pulled my next System 3 game out of storage. Spent the day working on it and got it up and running. Display board was blowing F4 fuse. Had two diodes that were bad. D1 and D3. Also had a smashed light socket shorting out. Only reall issue now is sound board is not working.

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Looking for a system 3 sound board and a Super Mario Bros Mushroom World left ramp. Let me know.

I just posted this in the other gottlieb thread. I can pick up a Freddy that's recently cleaned up.

Thoughts from long term owners?

Not sure what your asking about thoughts? Is it a good game? Well you really have to like the theme because game play isn't that exciting. I'm on my second one. Had my first one for a few years then got bored with it. Sold it then went a few years without. Found one at a nice price and couldn't pass on it. Really good callouts and fun to play when your trying to beat the game. Built like a tank.

Yeah thoughts on game play and such, I like the fact it would be my second system 3 because your right, built like a tank

It looks like pbresource has both. Unless you mean you need the metal habitrail for the left ramp.

http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html

http://www.pbresource.com/pfplayf.htm - 29082

Now that it's finally running about 100%, I guess I can rejoin the club:

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In some ways I can see why this game (and other Sys3's) aren't quite the pro-caliber games most folks claim to covet... but I have to say this one is fun without having to think about it too much. Love the crowd and announcer energy. There's lots to shoot for but the objectives change dynamically so it's easy to lose track, but that feature - and the damn glove LOL - seem to keep it interesting.

I think if Premier had put more effort into their dots, a lot of these games would compare better to the B/W games of the era. The layouts are intriguing, the gameplay is mostly there... it's the callouts and dots that fare the worst IMO.

But before you guys call me a hater, you should know this particular game probably should have been burned and parted out, but I said no... and am happy to have these bats swinging again!

I want a graphic for the speaker grills on my tee'd off. I feel a golf ball is to basic. but idk what to put

SUPER jealous of the mushroom world....hopefully some day.

There's really not much to the game but the video modes are awesome. In a throw back nostalgic feel. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it or sell it yet. If I keep it then I have to find a SMB to go with it.

Its just a cool looking pin and I have a mario wall so it would go great. PLUS id put the legs on the lower setting to allow my friend whos in a wheel chair a better angle and my daughter easier access.

Agreed, it's really a neat looking game. I have the game setup higher to work on it but plan on using the lower settings once done for my daughter and her friends.

Brother Bob can't walk away from CBW as it repeatedly taunts him to battle. Nice to see this title getting some lovin'.

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Freddy's home

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My back box GI is out, flashers work. Where to start?

The fuse is good at f8, I think someone wrote I can see if I hear the A relay clicking, I will try that in the test menu, but my question is how do I know if this relay is adjusted correctly? Should the switch contacts touch while it's powered off or have a slight gap?

I have a sensitive switch somewhere that occasionally scores 300k.

It's a fun game though!