Gottlieb System 3 Fan Club: Haters need not apply ;)


By Gov

3 years ago


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There are 404 posts in topic. You are on page 6 of 9.
#251 6 months ago
Quoted from mystman12:

That's what I thought, but unless im just doing something wrong I can't seem to get any to come up. I think it may just be a poor reproduction.

You need to pick at it along the edges.

I'm not aware that these plastics were reproduced.

#252 6 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

You need to pick at it along the edges.
I'm not aware that these plastics were reproduced.

Wow, I finally got it. I can't believe it was that hard to take off... Thank you!

That said it's still the wrong color.

#253 6 months ago
Quoted from mystman12:

That said it's still the wrong color.

Quoted from ForceFlow:

But you're right, it's not the correct color for this game.

#254 6 months ago

Looks like the colors for SF2!

#255 6 months ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

Looks like the colors for SF2!

SF2 is yellow and orange, not red and blue. But I think would match reasonably haha.

#256 6 months ago

Couldn't get the SF2 picture to load prior, but here it is.

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#257 6 months ago

Maybe mine's wrong then

#258 6 months ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

Maybe mine's wrong then

Oh no! I didn't mean to spoil anything for you, haha. Didn't realize you had one until now. I just acquired mine within the past month and really like it.

#259 6 months ago

It's not that big of a deal for me I like it but its still a bit slow with the back legs cranked all the way up. Had it set up in my living room but space is too tight. Hoping to move it soon to a friends place to do a flipper rebuild.
Thought it was in really good shape for the price but I keep finding things wrong with it. Now if I could only find protectors for it

#260 6 months ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

It's not that big of a deal for me I like it but its still a bit slow with the back legs cranked all the way up. Had it set up in my living room but space is too tight. Hoping to move it soon to a friends place to do a flipper rebuild.
Thought it was in really good shape for the price but I keep finding things wrong with it. Now if I could only find protectors for it

If you're looking for the hole protectors, I messaged Cliffy here on pinside and he shipped me a set, they work great! Charged me like $34 I think for both.

I did a flipper rebuild on mine, bought the supplies (not from the kit) on Marcos site and it REALLY made the game play much faster. New rubbers helped too. I did the 3 main flippers and all the rubbers within a couple hours, cost me like $80 (but I had some rubbers/super-bands for some other games I ordered in there too). Once you take one apart its pretty intuitive. If you want more details on what to order feel free to PM me and I can help you out.

If you haven't yet, I recommend downloading the PinGuy app for leveling your play field too. Pretty easy to use and you won't have to just crank the back legs on the already tall machine just to get it to play faster. It probably makes the feel weaker if the slope is too heavy anyway given the ball has to fight more gravity to move up the playfield.

#261 6 months ago

I do use that app and have it set to 6 and change, but it takes the back legs going up all the way!
I'll check into those protectors and will take you up on your offer about the parts after the new year.

2 weeks later
#262 5 months ago

So I just put a new light bracket in one of the bumpers in Stargate, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to actually get a bulb into it! I managed to squeeze one it, and it worked fine for about a minute, but then stopped. I looked at it and one of the bumps had broken in which made it come loose!

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Edit: Nevermind, I got it! It's weird putting the bulb in was the hardest part about replacing the bracket though.

1 week later
#263 5 months ago

Can anybody help me find a really clean Gladiators? Hoping to find one within driving distance of NC. I keep hearing stories of people that had to practicaly give one away, even fairly recently, because it wouldn't sell. Crazy stuff. Great game!

#264 5 months ago
Quoted from mystman12:

So I just put a new light bracket in one of the bumpers in Stargate, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to actually get a bulb into it! I managed to squeeze one it, and it worked fine for about a minute, but then stopped. I looked at it and one of the bumps had broken in which made it come loose!

Edit: Nevermind, I got it! It's weird putting the bulb in was the hardest part about replacing the bracket though.

It's a lamp socket, not bracket. Line the bulb's bumps up with the socket's notches, drop it in, and turn the bulb.

#265 5 months ago
Quoted from Tokkentakker:

Can anybody help me find a really clean Gladiators? Hoping to find one within driving distance of NC. I keep hearing stories of people that had to practicaly give one away, even fairly recently, because it wouldn't sell. Crazy stuff. Great game!

Your best bet is to put a WTB ad in the marketplace.

#266 5 months ago

Yep I placed WTB add a few days ago. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

#267 5 months ago

I see them for sale pretty frequently, it seems the asking price has jumped to 2k plus, but i doubt they sell for that price. Although i got mine for well sub 1k, itd take a lot to get it away from me. Great game with an awesome shaker. Ill keep my eyes open for you

#268 5 months ago

I'd be willing to go up to $2000 for something really clean and within driving distance.

#269 5 months ago

Im sure someone will list one soon, probably as soon as you spend the money on a different game!

1 month later
#271 3 months ago

Picked up a really clean Wipeout last night -- stuck in the garage until help can arrive to wrestle it to the basement!

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1 month later
#272 67 days ago

CBW Question, "What switch or PF event causes this bulb to come on? I picked up a routed CBW that had good bones but needed some love. Having never owned/played the game I decided to clean and restore it for a new life. After tearing down the PF and cleaning all the mechs, I began my reassembly. I decided to check that all the GI sockets/bulbs would light before I bury them under ramps etc. This bulb came on and stayed on with the GI.

Any help would be muchly appreciated!

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#273 67 days ago

That is one of the flash lamps, definitely not part of the GI, it should be computer controlled. The game highlights those targets at various times.

#274 67 days ago

Also, that bulb is a 67 bulb flasher, incandescent, you can use 89 flashers if you have leds, but it is a 12v bulb, I am currently working on a cbw and have it apart, that flasher on mine was burnt out, so may just change those while you have them apart.

#275 66 days ago

Thanks for the info. I figured it was a 12v bulb and it was burnt out on mine as well. Sadly, it appears this bulb issue had existed for long enough to melt my red plastic cover. I'm not exited to hear that it comes on at various times, likely complicating my quest to find the problem. Is it safe to assume the issue lies on the board and not the PF? If so, it appears it's solenoid 19, would a failed transistor or other component cause it to stay on?

I'm even less proficient at reading this Gottleib schematic(online copy just compounds difficulty :wall:), whereas I can muddle through B/W schem's.

#276 66 days ago

The System 3 schematic is a hell of a read for sure. You can test that flasher in test mode so no issues checking it.

#277 66 days ago

Here are the diagrams, appears to me that 67 bulb is Sol 19, hence suspect the mosfet at q20 or the diode at D20

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#278 66 days ago

Xlnt....! I ordered some stuff from Steve Young today and had him throw in the manual along with the Mofset as well. I think I read somewhere that when the transistor fails the coil/solenoid locks on. Hopefully, that's the issue. Thanks for the schem pics!

#279 66 days ago

Just picked up a new Freddy. Never played. So cool. Was in storage for over 20 years. Enjoy!

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#280 63 days ago

Beautiful Freddy!

#281 62 days ago
Quoted from lpnsocal:

I'm not exited to hear that it comes on at various times, likely complicating my quest to find the problem.

I think there are two times that flasher comes on during game play...during "no way" round and the multiball rounds to signal to hit the cue ball for jackpots. Regardless, you can simply check it with solenoid test.

#282 62 days ago

Hey everyone, new system 3 owner here and very excited to have scooped up a Class of 1812. Should be done with the full teardown shop job within the next 48 hours and then ready for action.

Everything plays fine and acts as it should, except I notice my PF GI lights don't go dark when I start a game and when multiball starts.

Anyone have advice or suggestions on what could cause this?

I don't see this as a game adjustment setting in the manual or anything.

Thanks!

#283 62 days ago
Quoted from davebart5:

Hey everyone, new system 3 owner here and very excited to have scooped up a Class of 1812. Should be done with the full teardown shop job within the next 48 hours and then ready for action.
Everything plays fine and acts as it should, except I notice my PF GI lights don't go dark when I start a game and when multiball starts.
Anyone have advice or suggestions on what could cause this?
I don't see this as a game adjustment setting in the manual or anything.
Thanks!

Ill take a look at mine later, but i dont think they go dark. I think they are always on

#284 62 days ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

Ill take a look at mine later, but i dont think they go dark. I think they are always on

Awesome. Thank you for the help here.

Here is the video from PAPA where I noticed the lighting behavior: » YouTube video

What I've noticed in some videos, is when a game starts, the PF GI goes mostly dark and the heart and mouth are only lit to start the little intro speech "the name is Zom B and I'm your host..."

And then when MB starts, everything goes dark again and I believe the heart and mouth are only ones lit again when he says "shoot the ball..."

#285 62 days ago

I'm working on resurrecting a Big Hurt that was... well, in really bad shape. Finally putting it back together one step at a time. The scoreboard area is impossibly stupid for servicing bulbs so I'm planning an LED conversion so that never has to be dealt with again.

When it comes to the #67 flasher bulbs, how do LED conversions work on System 3? On all my B/W stuff there's usually this resistor or that circuit or something else to modify, so I usually leave well enough alone and stick with incandescent flashers since they're not on all the time anyway. But on Big Hurt, yeah... some of these bulbs just suck for access. So what's required to convert to LED?

#286 62 days ago

In my System 3 Surf 'n Safari, I replaced the #67 flashers with #89 LED flashers from Comet Pinball and they work great.

#287 62 days ago

I have #89 LED flashers in my scoreboard assembly and a few in the back box with no issues.

#288 62 days ago

That's great news, thanks! Will add some LED 89's to my Comet order. Might see what color options they have since I've seen led flashers wash out dome colors before.

#289 62 days ago
Quoted from davebart5:

Awesome. Thank you for the help here.
Here is the video from PAPA where I noticed the lighting behavior: » YouTube video
What I've noticed in some videos, is when a game starts, the PF GI goes mostly dark and the heart and mouth are only lit to start the little intro speech "the name is Zom B and I'm your host..."
And then when MB starts, everything goes dark again and I believe the heart and mouth are only ones lit again when he says "shoot the ball..."

Yes, my g.i. lights do go out at the beginning of mb and game start. Sorry, i never noticed it before

#290 62 days ago
Quoted from davebart5:

I notice my PF GI lights don't go dark when I start a game and when multiball starts.
Anyone have advice or suggestions on what could cause this?
I don't see this as a game adjustment setting in the manual or anything.
Thanks!

GI effects are usually controlled by one or more relay(s), in turn controlled by transistor or mosfet circuits on the driver board.

Usually this can be tested as part of a game's solenoid or coil test. Stepping through the various coils and flashers, you'll come to one marked "relay" and you should hear it click (and flash associated lighting, if it's a lighting relay) if it works.

The game manual will list these circuits, but System 3 is pretty awesome about labeling them on screen as you step through, too.

If the relay does not work in the test, it could mean the relay is bad, or its associated driver (transistor / mosfet) is bad.

#291 62 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

GI effects are usually controlled by one or more relay(s), in turn controlled by transistor or mosfet circuits on the driver board.

You're right! Forgot to trace that back to the relay and this helped me drive that principle home for sure.

Tested everything and the T relay wasn't clicking. I manually moved the unit around a little with my fingers, and set in back in place. Now it's firing and the lights go dark when their supposed to.

Thank you for the quick help!

#292 59 days ago

Cactus Jack's for sale

In great shape

$1000 firm (what I paid)

New legs, new ramps, leds etc...I bought thrown in at no extra cost

Thanks!

BobC

#293 58 days ago
Quoted from BobC:

Cactus Jack's for sale
In great shape
$1000 firm (what I paid)
New legs, new ramps, leds etc...I bought thrown in at no extra cost
Thanks!
BobC

Awesome game, good price! It's a good thing you're not in Europe. I'd be very tempted, but frankly I don't have any room for another machine.

#294 57 days ago

I just replaced a broken drop target on my wipeout (i know, i know, things dont break on system 3s!) And man i love working on them. Everything is labeled, harnesses for all components so its easy to remove to work on it, lamp boards with easy removal, i love them!!!

#295 56 days ago

Anyone have tips to center and adjust the gladiators moving ramp? Not sure what sw30 actually controls or informs the board

#296 55 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Anyone have tips to center and adjust the gladiators moving ramp? Not sure what sw30 actually controls or informs the board

There is a return switch when the rail moves to the right, find that switch loosen the set screw just a bit, then i put in coil test, on the motor and let it travel back and forth , until it hits the switch on the travel to the right each time .

#297 55 days ago
Quoted from ZEN:

There is a return switch when the rail moves to the right, find that switch loosen the set screw just a bit, then i put in coil test, on the motor and let it travel back and forth , until it hits the switch on the travel to the right each time .

ahhh THANK YOU! Okay so when it hits the switch the ramp should be fully to the right?

#298 55 days ago
Quoted from ZEN:

Here are the diagrams, appears to me that 67 bulb is Sol 19, hence suspect the mosfet at q20 or the diode at D20

Cheers to all for the great info/direction As it turned out, mofset at Q20 was shorted thereby keeping the bulb on. Interesting side note, while I was checking the other transistors I found different readings, albeit close, on 3. It seems the previous owner/repair person had used different transistors to replace the failed 12N10L. I checked a transistor equivalency chart online and since the machine is not exhibiting any odd behaviors, apparently they can be used.

Thanks again!!

#299 55 days ago

In the market place

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#300 55 days ago

Alright, need some Sys3 driver board help.

I got Big Hurt back together, and all is mostly OK except for the #2 Drop Target Trip locking on. This is transistor (mosfet) Q10, a 2N10L.

I replaced Q10 with a new 2N10L a while back and tested in a working game, but still had the same problem.

Now that Big Hurt is mostly working I replaced Q10 for a second time, still have the issue. But its DMM "diode check" is consistent with other good Qs on the board. So I tested the associated resistor and cap. The resistor is fine, but the capacitor at C21, a .01uf, was giving funny readings... so I replaced it.

Still have the solenoid problem.

Looking further upsteam on the board goes to U2, the 74HCT273. Not entirely sure how to test this chip, but using a DMM with red lead on pin 10 (ground) and the black lead on the output pins... they all read the same.

But I keep going back to that weird C21 capacitor reading. It's completely out of whack to all the others. Why? What would cause this? All the other components in the circuit seem to be OK. So I must be missing something...

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