(Topic ID: 92226)

Gottlieb System 3 Fan Club: Haters need not apply ;)


By Gov

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 775 posts
  • 192 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 hours ago by Betelgeuse
  • Topic is favorited by 61 Pinsiders

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There are 775 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 16.
#651 11 months ago

These are very fragile... Pins are easily bent when removing. The best way is to use an IC extractor.

#652 11 months ago

Thanks latenite04 (PM sent) and matiou for the replies. Indeed, the connector suggestions you sent match visually. Thanks so much! Where would I be without pinside?

#653 11 months ago

More System 3 questions related to my Wipe Out:

(1) Anyone know of a replacement resistor board available? Original part number is A13 26378. The one I have is pretty crisp and was jumpered by the previous owner--all lights are working well--but I'd prefer to add a replacement if I can.

(2) In the top right corner of the backbox of my Wipe Out there is a fan installed that looks to be factory and the fan spins by hand, but the wires to it were cut by a previous owner. Has anyone else seen this in system 3 games? Any opinions on whether the fan is needed? From the front, all the backbox boards and connectors look to be clean with no sign of heat damage.

Thanks!

#654 11 months ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

Big Wipeout fan here as well, just a really fun game.
Your translight looks great, do you have LEDs in it? Mine looks very dull in comparison.
Just noticed it’s sitting next to a Comet, great choice in games! My Wipeout is sitting one game away from my Comet.

I have the same question. Your Wipeout looks outstanding and nice and bright. Care to share your LED mix?

#655 11 months ago
Quoted from MT45:

I have the same question. Your Wipeout looks outstanding and nice and bright. Care to share your LED mix?

Then your Comet is trying to tell you something. All Comet non-ghosting white LEDs:

https://www.cometpinball.com/

#656 11 months ago

The resitor board you're looking for is the MA-1417: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-1417
unfortunately I could not find one available online with a quick search. However, it should be really straightforward to fix yours. Take the opportunity to put resistors with a bit more watts.

#657 11 months ago
Quoted from matiou:

The resitor board you're looking for is the MA-1417: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-1417
unfortunately I could not find one available online with a quick search. However, it should be really straightforward to fix yours. Take the opportunity to put resistors with a bit more watts.

Thanks very much. I'll look into this. Much appreciated!

#658 11 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

More System 3 questions related to my Wipe Out:
(1) Anyone know of a replacement resistor board available? Original part number is A13 26378. The one I have is pretty crisp and was jumpered by the previous owner--all lights are working well--but I'd prefer to add a replacement if I can.
(2) In the top right corner of the backbox of my Wipe Out there is a fan installed that looks to be factory and the fan spins by hand, but the wires to it were cut by a previous owner. Has anyone else seen this in system 3 games? Any opinions on whether the fan is needed? From the front, all the backbox boards and connectors look to be clean with no sign of heat damage.
Thanks!

I may have a spare board like this ,of you still need it pm me and I can check and see.

#659 10 months ago

For Tee'd Off.

I guess there was at least talk of someone creating a sticker kinda thing with artwork for the mean hole area. Did that ever happen? Are there any available?

#660 10 months ago
Quoted from Bricarus:

For Tee'd Off.
I guess there was at least talk of someone creating a sticker kinda thing with artwork for the mean hole area. Did that ever happen? Are there any available?

Here is the graphic someone posted which could be printed, placed and mylared into place.

MeanHoleGreen Decal (resized).png
#661 10 months ago

Thanks!

#662 10 months ago

My Wipe Out sound problem described in post #649 is resolved thanks to a replacement ribbon connector from latenite04 and reseating all connectors on both the sound board and auxiliary sound board. Thanks, pinsiders for the invaluable help! As I get to know Wipe Out now with full sound, I'm realizing that it's a deeper and more fun game than I first thought. The same was true for my World Challenge Soccer that I previously owned. Well worth the money.

#663 10 months ago

I'm trying to fix an issue I have on SMB where the outhole mech will launch the ball hard enough to make another ball hop out of the trough into the shooter lane. I've adjusted the microswitch to the outhole, replaced the springs and coil stop on that mech. But still each launch from the outhole will cause the next ball to hop over the stop bar.

It looks like there may be an extra washer on the front of the trough on mine raising it on that side. I'm wondering if this is original? It may be warping my trough allowing the ball to hop... Can anyone confirm if this washer should be there?

IMG_20190916_200431 (resized).jpg
#664 10 months ago

I went ahead and tried it with the washer removed...works perfectly to stop the ball now. Unfortunately, I see why the washer was put in...occasionally the ball would roll back past the wireform back into the outhole spot... Naturally I broke the wireform trying to adjust it

I guess I need to come up with more parts to order to justify shipping

#665 10 months ago
Quoted from setzkor:

I went ahead and tried it with the washer removed...works perfectly to stop the ball now. Unfortunately, I see why the washer was put in...occasionally the ball would roll back past the wireform back into the outhole spot... Naturally I broke the wireform trying to adjust it
I guess I need to come up with more parts to order to justify shipping

When I got my super Mario pin, it was always launching two balls into the shooter lane too. Though mine was easy to correct as I just had to adjust the wire form and that fixed my problem. If you still need pics of anything, let me know and I’ll take some for you.

#666 10 months ago

As noted in previous posts, I thought my sound issues on my Wipe Out were resolved, but I was incorrect. I sometimes simply lose half the sounds when I start a new game, and the only pattern I can establish is that it happens if I leave the game on and unplayed for a while. I can play for 30 minutes and the sound is fine, but then if I leave the machine running but don't play it for an hour, half the sounds are gone when I start a new game. If I turn it off and try again right away, the same problem remains. However, if I turn it off for as little as 10 minutes and then start a new game, the sounds all come back.

Any ideas? I have already re-seated every connector in the backbox. Could it be heat-related? It seems unlikely--the machine is in a garage where the temperature is currently 70 degrees. And there is a small fan mounted and running in the backbox, which looks to be factory. Any input is welcome. I'm stumped.

#667 10 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

As noted in previous posts, I thought my sound issues on my Wipe Out were resolved, but I was incorrect. I sometimes simply lose half the sounds when I start a new game, and the only pattern I can establish is that it happens if I leave the game on and unplayed for a while. I can play for 30 minutes and the sound is fine, but then if I leave the machine running but don't play it for an hour, half the sounds are gone when I start a new game. If I turn it off and try again right away, the same problem remains. However, if I turn it off for as little as 10 minutes and then start a new game, the sounds all come back.
Any ideas? I have already re-seated every connector in the backbox. Could it be heat-related? It seems unlikely--the machine is in a garage where the temperature is currently 70 degrees. And there is a small fan mounted and running in the backbox, which looks to be factory. Any input is welcome. I'm stumped.

Have you tried replacing/re-burning the sound roms?

#668 10 months ago

On Gottlieb 3 machines (and I guess on Wipe Out), the sound channels come from different sound chips, usually spread on 2 sound cards. They all get mixed together and then amplified. It looks like one of your channel stops working intermittently. It could come from electrolytic capacitors used on the related sound circuit (this is a possibility, not guaranteed!). These electrolytic capacitors likely fail at some point, especially on a 25 year old game. If you know how to unsolder/solder through-hole components on circuit boards, it is worth trying replacing them (and relatively cheap), but you have to be careful not to damage the board. You can also try to identify which sound channel is at fault, to replace only the capacitors from this part of the circuit.

#669 10 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Have you tried replacing/re-burning the sound roms?

No, but thanks. I thought that might be a first step.

#670 10 months ago
Quoted from matiou:

On Gottlieb 3 machines (and I guess on Wipe Out), the sound channels come from different sound chips, usually spread on 2 sound cards. They all get mixed together and then amplified. It looks like one of your channel stops working intermittently. It could come from electrolytic capacitors used on the related sound circuit (this is a possibility, not guaranteed!). These electrolytic capacitors likely fail at some point, especially on a 25 year old game. If you know how to unsolder/solder through-hole components on circuit boards, it is worth trying replacing them (and relatively cheap), but you have to be careful not to damage the board. You can also try to identify which sound channel is at fault, to replace only the capacitors from this part of the circuit

Thanks so much. Beyond my skills, but I can hire this done if needed. Sometimes the audio callouts disappear and other times the music, so it's very erratic.

3 weeks later
#671 9 months ago

I have a Wipe Out and am wondering how the wire for the gate at the rear loop attaches to the switch (30272) under the play field. Could anyone with this machine snap a pic under the play field for me?

Thanks!

#672 9 months ago

Does this help?

WipeOutSwitch (resized).JPG
#673 9 months ago

I noticed last night that my Waterworld right slingshot isn't shooting anymore, the ball just hits it and rolls off. The left one still works fine. What should my first course of action be to check on this System 3? I am more used to EM's.

#674 9 months ago
Quoted from Matesamo:

I noticed last night that my Waterworld right slingshot isn't shooting anymore, the ball just hits it and rolls off. The left one still works fine. What should my first course of action be to check on this System 3? I am more used to EM's.

Solenoid test.

If it fires in test: check slingshot switches.

If it doesn't fire in test: check for broken wire on coil, check fuse on underside of playfield, check transistor on driver board

#675 9 months ago
Quoted from frisbez:

Solenoid test.
If it fires in test: check slingshot switches.
If it doesn't fire in test: check for broken wire on coil, check fuse on underside of playfield, check transistor on driver board

Good deal, thanks!

#676 9 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Does this help?[quoted image]

Hello Joe - Thanks, this tells this story for me. Much appreciated!

1 week later
#677 9 months ago

I sold my Cue Ball Wizard and replaced it with a Stargate. What a fun game, there is a lot packed into this machine, it would be the "premium" version if released these days, toys for days!

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11
#678 9 months ago

I am sure many people have done this but I got my new Nightmare of Elm Street machines translite signed by Freddy himself at Rhode Island Comic Con yesterday. Pretty cool, we talked about him doing the voices for the machine six stories underground in Chicago and that he still owns his in cherry condition (claws are not broken as well). He said it just needs a flipper rebuild.

NoEM2 (resized).jpgNoES1 (resized).jpg
#679 9 months ago

That is so cool!

#680 9 months ago

Right Now Me an my Dad Have ......

really like the system 3's They are Tanks

Deadly Weapon #724 (1990)

Super Mario Bros. #733 (1992)

Cue Ball Wizard #734 (1992)

Street Fighter II #735 (1993)

Tee'd Off #736 (1993)

Freddy: A Nightmare on Elm Street #744 (1994)

Strikes 'n' Spares (1995)

Barb Wire (pinball) #748 (1996)

Bell Ringer

Nudge-It

#681 8 months ago

Hello
Just picked up a Shaq Attaq from a private owner who had it in a building they bought. It was locked and a tax stamp on it was 1998. Wouldn't power on, so offered $100 as I'm donating it to a local youth group for the kids to play with. Not my first pin, but it is my first Sys3. Got it home, drilled lock and no key, got back box open. Boom, no Display board. The cabinet is in really great shape the same for PF. Clearly something was going on at some point for it to be pulled.

Now I'm looking for a Display Control board, does anyone have one?

Coinbox did have $9.50 in it, the newest quarter was 1997, my son and the kids thought that was pretty cool.

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1 week later
#682 8 months ago

I’m about to tackle a deep shop out of my Wipe Out. Can anyone share with me the LED flashers they might have used in a System 3? Looks like WO has 7 -10 of them. I plan to buy from Comet and would like to know colors used as well. Color matched to domes or all white? Which white?

#683 8 months ago

Can anyone lend me some advice with a Freddy?

I am having trouble with the head VUK and jaw coils. The jaw kicks on in test mode for both coils, and if I have the VUK wired up it blows the fuse.

The driver board was so roached it was lifting traces as soon as the iron touched it. So that was replaced. The VUK ohms out as good. And the diode is good. I'm not sure where to go with it now.

#684 8 months ago

What is the best way to remove the cabinet's metal side rails?

#685 8 months ago

Finally Ready...
Complete Overhaul
This was a Reimport From Brazil....

Total basket case when I got it.....

New NOS Backglass...
New NOS Ramps...
Cabinet Touch Up
Playfield Touch Up
Complete Top Shop Job .
White LED's in the GI
New Rubbers.
Complete under side Playfeild shop
New flippers, New Stargate Coils.
Bright Orange T molding around the Head.
Bright Orange Powder Coated Side Rails , Legs Lock down Bar.
All New parts in Coin Door.
New Hardware for Legs an Rails
Set up on coins...
Boards where repaired or replaced.

Looks Better than when it started.

IMG_20191129_151809737 (resized).jpgIMG_20191129_164831708 (resized).jpgIMG_20191129_164838527 (resized).jpg
#686 8 months ago

Hello I am Looking for some Help on My Street Fighter II Pinball. The Machine is working about 95% The Game Boots Plays /Scores goes Fine like it should . However There is one known problem.
The issue I am having is after Torpedo Multi ball an the last ball drains. The Game comes up with your Torpedo Total an stays there. Nothing added to the score just plays music an cycles the flashers. It is like the Game is Stuck In this Mode or Something. Any Help ?? Thanks Jr

-Tried a different CPU ----Same thing.

-Tried Different Game ROM ---- Same thing.

#687 8 months ago

I reset the factory settings... Seems to working fine now...

#688 8 months ago

Going back a few months to problems I was having with intermittent sound problems on my Wipe Out, after ruling out other options I sent the sound boards to coin-op cauldron and, as with other boards I have sent there, they were successfully fixed at an affordable price. Now the game is 100% and some sounds that were also missing are back. Clive does excellent work and communicates well, which I really appreciate. Highly recommended. Here is a summary from Clive of the work he did on the two sound boards, at a cost of $90, including shipping:

Gottlieb System 3 Sound (MA1629) and Aux Sound (MA1770) boards (SN 118579. Wipe Out. Incorrect tones. Locks-up. Link ribbon cable not supplied): All four sound ROMs removed and internal data verified (Vcc +/- 0.25v). AROM2 legs straightened. Signals in, out and around both microprocessor systems and glue logic, -- new 74LS245 bus driver IC and 20-pin chip socket. 2x NOS 6116 Static RAM ICs and 2x 24-pin dual-wipe chip sockets. Signals in, out and around board re-analyzed. Reflowed I/O header pins. Board cleaned up. 3-tie testing (including final in-game 9 hour test).

#689 8 months ago

Need some help from fellow Wipe Out owners.

During plunge up the launch ramp the ball hits the wire form hard. Most times stops it dead and returns it to playfield for SDTM drain. I shot a slo-mo video of it. Also see images. Something just isn’t right. Can someone shoot a picture of the same area for me? Spot where plastic launch ramp meets the wire form.

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#690 8 months ago

Here’s some pictures of mine. Watching your video it looks like the top right side of the rail has a broken weld and when the ball hits the rail flexes away from where it is supposed to be, stopping the ball

249E1EF9-7E12-4435-9329-1340DBDAFEF6 (resized).jpeg68B2766E-1FD7-4907-9EB4-F54D1F40ABB0 (resized).jpeg7389C590-F52F-46FE-BE65-87EC32481158 (resized).jpeg
#691 8 months ago

Here is a screen shot of your video where it looks like the rail actually disconnects from the circular part of the rail
Second picture is of right before where the rail is connected

87700049-1BFB-46CA-B385-74AD196E4E93 (resized).pngA96EDB09-CF64-4A25-8137-CB420CE2BF51 (resized).png
#692 8 months ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

Here is a screen shot of your video where it looks like the rail actually disconnects from the circular part of the rail
Second picture is of right before where the rail is connected[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks so much for the pics! Yes, I saw the broken weld before I shot the video. I really think the weld broke because the ball is hitting the circular support on any hard shot or hard plunge.

Wierd because your ramp-wireform junction looks just like mine ...

#693 8 months ago

Thanks again @Parkshow30. Your pics confirmed for me that the junction was correct.

I took another look at my video and noticed the ball is completely airborne on the plunge, even as it transitions to the wire form
Took a couple of screenshots out of the video to show the height of the ball as the ball approaches and then as it gets rejected by hitting the wire form and then rolling backwards.
On the plunge the ball is clearly airborne and hugging the metal bracket above it
It's got no chance of merging into that wireform smoothly

I cut a piece of soft plastic and fitted it over the ramp as a test to see if that helped.

It did!

Only had one rejection on about a dozen hard plunges
Zero rejections of solid flips up the ramp

This was true before also, I had 10x the number of rejects on plunges vs gameplay flips up the ramp

Now onto the question as to why ...

Wondering what color/strength plunger spring you all have in your wipeout.
Mine is silver (and VERY stiff) and I'm betting that's not correct ...

IMG_6739 (resized).jpgIMG_6740 (resized).jpgIMG_6741 (resized).jpgIMG_6742 (resized).jpg
#694 8 months ago

Hello I am a new member to the site I was wondering if anyone could direct me or assist me with a parts list of necessary items including nuts bolts and whatever those little plastic spacer pieces are also thicknesses of plexiglass or any design schematics you might have that could help me build the an upper playfield my cactus Jack only has the bottom piece of plexiglass with the five holes in it and nothing else
I would really appreciate any advice or insight into trying to build an upper Plainfield

#695 7 months ago

Does anyone know what game was the first Gottlieb game to conduct a ball search? My Lights Camera Action definitely doesn't have one, and I don't think Super Mario Bros. has one either.

Side note: Do ANY Gottlieb games have software compensation for having a ball get stuck and being able to play with one fewer ball in the trough?

Just more of a curiosity thing than anything.

#696 7 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Do ANY Gottlieb games have software compensation for having a ball get stuck

My CBW has ball search.

#697 7 months ago

Yes, Cue Ball Wizard, Stargate, Waterworld and Freddy all have a "stuck ball" search feature.

#698 7 months ago

Just getting started on a dead but very good looking Gladiators.
Checking power outputs on the bridge rectifiers and the 12 and 20 vdc look fine.
The 48 vdc is putting out 65 vdc, I put a new bridge in and same results.
Most of the head is disconnected as I need to assess board damage later, would a unloaded bridge read high like this ?

Thanks all.

#699 7 months ago

Hi everyone;

I have a Waterworld tech question, I've searched and haven't seen it posted yet... Sometimes, during game play, the two drop targets don't reset, when the ball drains they do. They function normally in test mode, so I don't believe its a coil issue. Where should I start checking for circuitry problems???

Thanks in advance

Steve

#700 7 months ago
Quoted from SteveShady:

Hi everyone;
I have a Waterworld tech question, I've searched and haven't seen it posted yet... Sometimes, during game play, the two drop targets don't reset, when the ball drains they do. They function normally in test mode, so I don't believe its a coil issue. Where should I start checking for circuitry problems???
Thanks in advance
Steve

I don't have a waterworld but I'm assuming this uses the same two bank drop as in Stargate which I had the same issues with. The fix was to bend this bracket in the photo away from the coil where it was getting hung up. Just remove the two screws holding the coil to the target mech to get access to the bracket. It won't take much of a bend to get it working again, test it a few times with the glass off to make sure you got it.

99EE400D-7871-49D9-BC07-58CE63C97037 (resized).jpeg
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