(Topic ID: 92226)

Gottlieb System 3 Fan Club: Haters need not apply ;)


By Gov

6 years ago



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  • 764 posts
  • 185 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Mitoska
  • Topic is favorited by 60 Pinsiders

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There are 764 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 16.
#601 1 year ago

So this beauty came in. What a cool game. And only 32 controlled lights not working, lol. U5 was no good on the driver board taking out all the associated transistors with it. Probably the most linear pin I have ever played

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#602 1 year ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

guys..... help.... i just got a silver slugger and its was kind of a nightmare. i told him i needed to remove the head completely to fit it in my car. and he didn't have the keys to the head so he proceeded to remove the entire wire harness from the cabinet. i mean he disconnected every single wire and molex connection, coin door, flippers, volume nob, knocker, everything. he thought he could remove head that way. after he found out that wasn't gona work he left it like that. drove home and got his drill, duh, and opens the head. then disconnected every cable from the head and doped it in the box. now, i have just a completely loose wire harness i don't have a clue how to put this back and in what order. good news is this machine is in amazing shape, super clean. still has all the label on the molex connectors. but after looking at it i don't think they just match up. i don't see any matching connectors with the same code, but some with very similar codes. i'm gona need alot of help to put this back together. anything would help, including pics and what not. thanks guys.

I've made some headway with the wiring of my silver slugger, but I could use some help. I could really use some close up photos of the connectors on the slam tilt(coin door), flippers(both), start button, initials buttons, both tilts on left side, speaker, and power supply. I need to verify some things before I go forward. Thank you fellow Gottlieb Guy's!

#603 1 year ago

got a question about free-play. On my Rescue 911, the only way I can figure to set it for free-play is to go into tournament mode. The problem with that is it only shows the words "tournament mode" on the display, the high-score is gone. Is there any way to get free-play without tournament mode?

#604 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

got a question about free-play. On my Rescue 911, the only way I can figure to set it for free-play is to go into tournament mode. The problem with that is it only shows the words "tournament mode" on the display, the high-score is gone. Is there any way to get free-play without tournament mode?

I just do the "credit fake" method, which can be done with most any game. Set the earned replay credit score as low as possible, then add a bunch of credits manually. Whenever you start a new game, very quickly you earn a credit, replacing the one you just used.

#605 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

got a question about free-play. On my Rescue 911, the only way I can figure to set it for free-play is to go into tournament mode. The problem with that is it only shows the words "tournament mode" on the display, the high-score is gone. Is there any way to get free-play without tournament mode?

If you have the door open it will show the tournament mode screen. Once the coin door is closed, it should go into normal attract mode and show the high scores ect. If yours is staying on the tournament mode screen, then maybe your door switch is not working

#606 1 year ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

Just joined the club on Wednesday evening by buying myself a cactus jacks. It plays well, but needs a good clean and some paint touch ups on the cab. My kids love the theme, cacti and music, and I find it quite fun too. It currently sits in the garage as I clean it up.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Williams flipper bats look good.

1 week later
#607 1 year ago

anyone know where the resistor for the playfield flashers would be on a system 3. I am having issues with an additional sets of flashers tryign to go off at the same time as another set and am wanting to check the resistor. Manual says there is one in the backbox and one somewhere else

#608 1 year ago

Just got a rubber kit from pbr and the tapered ramp Post rubbers are about a 16th of an inch shorter than the ones that were on this game. Can anybody shed some light on this? I would think he sent me the right stuff but they’re not a good fit, they either leave a space at the bottom or the top on the post. Hopefully I’m describing this OK and/or someone has seen this before?

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#609 1 year ago
Quoted from Zorak:

Just got a rubber kit from pbr and the tapered ramp Post rubbers are about a 16th of an inch shorter than the ones that were on this game. Can anybody shed some light on this? I would think he sent me the right stuff but they’re not a good fit, they either leave a space at the bottom or the top on the post. Hopefully I’m describing this OK and/or someone has seen this before?[quoted image]

The original looks to be in decent shape, maybe just turn it around?

#610 1 year ago
Quoted from Zorak:

Just got a rubber kit from pbr and the tapered ramp Post rubbers are about a 16th of an inch shorter than the ones that were on this game. Can anybody shed some light on this? I would think he sent me the right stuff but they’re not a good fit, they either leave a space at the bottom or the top on the post. Hopefully I’m describing this OK and/or someone has seen this before?[quoted image]

I think that's normal. My Street Fighter has the same gap on all the ramp entrance post rubbers, then again maybe all of mine are wrong. You could use a razor blade to cut a slice off of the old one and stack the two on the post if it bothers you. The part the ball hits will be new rubber.

#611 1 year ago

I’d email PBR and let them know. They have always been very helpful, and want to make sure I get what I've been after.

#612 1 year ago

Is there a place to purchase or buy rom revision updates for system 3 games? Since Gottlieb pretty much got rid of people sharing their roms is there any alternatives? I am would like to upgrade to the most recent revision. Also looking towards the future for preservation as well. What if I had a eprom go dead, would I pretty much be up the creek without a paddle? If so it would probably be worth it, for me to pull the eproms and make copies of them for my own personal use to preserve the game.

#613 1 year ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Is there a place to purchase or buy rom revision updates for system 3 games? Since Gottlieb pretty much got rid of people sharing their roms is there any alternatives? I am would like to upgrade to the most recent revision. Also looking towards the future for preservation as well. What if I had a eprom go dead, would I pretty much be up the creek without a paddle? If so it would probably be worth it, for me to pull the eproms and make copies of them for my own personal use to preserve the game.

Yea, I'd like to find someone who can change game rules on my Gottlieb. I'd like to remove some scoring exploits.

#614 1 year ago

What type of bolts/nuts whatever is supposed to help hold the back box on. Neither of my Gottlieb games came with the hardware. My one game does have bolts that stick up through the bottom of the back box but I don't have what is supposed to go on there. A

#615 1 year ago

so update with my silver slugger. i got it all put back together but i seem to be missing a cable..... its the A3J7 cable, 8 pin molex, looks to be an all white cable. from photos i've found on IPDB i believe it runs to the little board by the power supply (arrow 1) and looks to run separate from the other other wire harness's (Arrow 2). can someone check to see if i'm right? and if i'm right how in the hell do i replace that?

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#616 1 year ago
Quoted from fatality83:

What type of bolts/nuts whatever is supposed to help hold the back box on. Neither of my Gottlieb games came with the hardware. My one game does have bolts that stick up through the bottom of the back box but I don't have what is supposed to go on there. A

They are 3/8X3-3/4 hex bolts and a flat washer, same thread as the leg bolts.

Added 12 months ago:

Edit: My mushroom world takes a 3/8 X 2-1/2 to 3 inch bolt. I got the 3-3/4 from pbr, I guess I read the wrong section.

#617 1 year ago

Have had my Wipeout for a few months now, having lots of fun with it. It has developed a very loud speaker hum in the cabinet, noticeably 2-3 times louder than there was a few weeks ago. Any suggestions for this?

#618 1 year ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/teed-off-no-control-lamps#post-5043486

I am not very knowledgeable in diagnosing problems with these. I picked up this Gottlieb Tee’d Off and got it working with the exception of the control lamps. I was hoping one of you guys might have an idea of where to start? I sure would appreciate it.

#619 1 year ago

Is there a way to put the alpha numeric system 3 games (like Surf N Safari) into free play?

#620 1 year ago
Quoted from GarlandJenkins:

Is there a way to put the alpha numeric system 3 games (like Surf N Safari) into free play?

Yes in the settings

#621 1 year ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

Yes in the settings

I’ll take another look thru the manual, but can you be more specific?

#622 1 year ago

Found it this morning when rereading the manual. Thanks

1 week later
#623 1 year ago

Ok, I have a bit of a stupid question before I go tearing into things... I'm working on a Cue Ball Wiz for a guy, and long story short - all of the drop targets work mechanically, and they score if you push on the switches, but it looks like all but two are misadjusted, so I'm going to need to get in there and adjust them.

Question is - is there an easy way to do that I'm not seeing? It looks like they are kinda in the middle of the whole target mech, so you can't get an adjuster or anything in there without taking it apart. I'm already way over on hours spent and I really was hoping to avoid removing and breaking out 2 7 target mechs and was hoping for an alternative that hasn't come to me yet.

#624 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Question is - is there an easy way to do that I'm not seeing? It looks like they are kinda in the middle of the whole target mech, so you can't get an adjuster or anything in there without taking it apart.

As far as I know, there is no shortcut.

#625 1 year ago

Got extra translites sitting around? Display those suckers!

Put your name on the list. Minimum order is 10....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lit-frames-led-backlit-translite-frames

#626 12 months ago

Hey folks, I am doing a run of the clear plastic tray for the full size ball on Cue Ball Wizard. They will be $45 plus shipping if you are interested. PM me your details and I will get one made for you!

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#627 12 months ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/teed-off-no-control-lamps#post-5080399

I’ve made a little headway on my Tee’d Off project but I am stuck on these control lamps not working. Anyone have any ideas on what to check out on this? I really appreciate any help I can get. Thanks

#628 12 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Hey folks, I am doing a run of the clear plastic tray for the full size ball on Cue Ball Wizard. They will be $45 plus shipping if you are interested. PM me your details and I will get one made for you![quoted image]

How are you doing it? Vacuform ?

#629 12 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

How are you doing it? Vacuform ?

Yes!

#630 12 months ago

I would love to see some pics of the process!

1 week later
#631 11 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I would love to see some pics of the process!

Me too! What other games have you made plastic or ramps for?

#632 11 months ago

Hello! I'm looking for the part number of the bolts going through the system 3 cabinet walls to hold the pivot brackets for the playfield... See picture below... As you can see mine are not in great shape!

Thanks in advance!

bolts (resized).PNG
2 weeks later
#633 11 months ago

Hello all, I've just joined this club. Last Saturday I picked up an immaculate Cue Ball Wizard pin. The game is spotless and we're enjoying playing it.

About 2 months ago I also picked up a Car Hop for a price I couldn't turn down - free. It's dirty and faded, needs shopped badly, but it works and plays with issues as I'd expect. I'm hoping someone here can help me out.

1st - someone in the past completely removed the upper playfield right flipper! The mech is totally gone. They plugged the hole with a wood plug and put a star post in the flipper's place. I attached a picture of it to this post.

2nd - Once you start a game, the game never ends. I've played it one time as a test up to about 15 balls before I hit the slam switch to get it to stop. Any thoughts on that?

Would anyone have a complete right flipper assembly so I can make the game whole again?

Thanks!
IMG_0847 (resized).JPG

#634 11 months ago
Quoted from matiou:

Hello! I'm looking for the part number of the bolts going through the system 3 cabinet walls to hold the pivot brackets for the playfield... See picture below... As you can see mine are not in great shape!
Thanks in advance![quoted image]

Ok... so let's reply myself to my noob question
These are technically called "carriage bolts" and the ones needed for this cabinet are 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 inch.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4320-01123-20Bb

#635 11 months ago
Quoted from shopastry:

Me too! What other games have you made plastic or ramps for?

I have three machines that have new ramps by jodyg, Hollywood Heat, Gold Wings and Spring Break. Two of which he hand delivered to me at Allentown which look and fit flawless. Well worth the money of you want to replace a missing or beat ramp.

#636 11 months ago

I finally got my silver slugger up and running. But the left flipper when raised is a little lower then the right. Its also got a little flop to it. How do I adjust this, and how do I know what's the proper angle to have them both set to?

#637 11 months ago

I need to replace the yellow never ever stand up target on my Gottlieb Wipeout. Part number is 29099t. I am already ordering a bunch of stuff from Marco for my other games so I’d like to include this in the order. They don’t have the yellow one, they do have the red one, part number 29099r. Would this work? Is the only difference the color of the target? Thanks.

#638 11 months ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

I need to replace the yellow never ever stand up target on my Gottlieb Wipeout. Part number is 29099t. I am already ordering a bunch of stuff from Marco for my other games so I’d like to include this in the order. They don’t have the yellow one, they do have the red one, part number 29099r. Would this work? Is the only difference the color of the target? Thanks.

Yes, the only difference is color.

#639 10 months ago

Little electrical question... The 48V DC lines on the SF2 I'm working on are a quite high... I read 59V with my multimeter at the output of the transformer panel on A12P1 (without any load). Is it OK ? Am I over-volting my coils designed for 48V ? Note that the 50VAC readings are quite good (51V AC).

#640 10 months ago
Quoted from matiou:

Little electrical question... The 48V DC lines on the SF2 I'm working on are a quite high... I read 59V with my multimeter at the output of the transformer panel on A12P1 (without any load). Is it OK ? Am I over-volting my coils designed for 48V ? Note that the 50VAC readings are quite good (51V AC).

It's ok. Being unregulated it would not be unusual to see that reading, especially without a load. What is the problem symptom you are trying to troubleshoot?

#641 10 months ago

Ok thanks for the confirmation! In the meantime I tried to connect at the output a 10W resistor and got 49V when measuring the voltage... So I guess it's good when loaded. Not trying to troubleshoot anything specific, I'm bringing back to life a machine that was abandoned for a while and I verify things as I go...

#642 10 months ago
Quoted from matiou:

I'm bringing back to life a machine that was abandoned for a while and I verify things as I go...

Good policy.

#643 10 months ago

I have 2 Bell Ringers do I qualify for the club?

#644 10 months ago

I love Gottlieb games! I've had a Genesis (System 80B) for close to 3 years and a couple weeks ago picked up a Wipe Out on a whim and LOVE it! All of my games are in my business, and Wipe Out has been super popular... Today I finally secured a deal on a Super Mario Bros. which I've wanted for a long time.

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#645 10 months ago
Quoted from RoxasUrSoxas:

I love Gottlieb games! I've had a Genesis (System 80B) for close to 3 years and a couple weeks ago picked up a Wipe Out on a whim and LOVE it! All of my games are in my business, and Wipe Out has been super popular... Today I finally secured a deal on a Super Mario Bros. which I've wanted for a long time.[quoted image]

Big Wipeout fan here as well, just a really fun game.
Your translight looks great, do you have LEDs in it? Mine looks very dull in comparison.

Just noticed it’s sitting next to a Comet, great choice in games! My Wipeout is sitting one game away from my Comet.

2 weeks later
#646 10 months ago

I just fixed my System 3 sound boards... Maybe you don't really care But I will briefly explain what happened here just in case someone has a similar issue later and finds this post thanks to some specific keywords.

I had no sound... Just static. No change when adjusting the volume knob. But both A6 and A20 had a flashing LED, which was a good sign (it meant the 5V logic part of the board was at least partially working). I started by checking the other voltages and found out my +12VDC point on the A6 sound board was reading only +2VDC... I concluded something was wrong at the power supply level (A5). But I was wrong... When completely unplugging the A20 board (aux sound board), the voltage on A6 was back to normal. So something was wrong on A20... some sort of short. On this board, the +12VDC is used by a 5V regulator going to some logic chips, a 9V regulator going to the volume attenuator (MC3340), and all the op amps mixing sounds together. I put A20 on my bench and tested the output voltage of both regulators, they were fine. However, while doing this, I noticed the 9V regulator was super hot. I disconnected one of its legs to disable it and the +12VDC of the whole system went back to normal! Of course I still had no sound, knowing the volume attenuator was not powered. I bypassed the attenuator circuit by opening JP5 and closing JP6. And voila! sound was back... But VERY LOUD So I temporarily installed a 100k resistor at JP6 to reach an acceptable level of sound. Now I just have to find a MC3340 chip on ebay... of course obsolete for quite some years!

It may look easy when summarized like this, but I was not familiar at all with System 3 and it took me few days to figure all this out thanks to good schematics and internet resources...

#647 10 months ago

Looking for a replacement ribbon connector that connects the sound board to the board below it on a Wipe Out. Turns out the ribbon connector has two parallel rows of 10 male pins on it (the female ends are in the boards and some of the pins are broken) and some of those male pins are broken. The part number that I can make out (some of the number is behind the connector housing) is AWM E53793.

Any help?

#648 10 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Looking for a replacement ribbon connector that connects the sound board to the board below it on a Wipe Out. Turns out the ribbon connector has two parallel rows of 10 male pins on it (the female ends are in the boards) and some of those male pins are broken. The part number that I can make out (some of the number is behind the connector housing) is AWM E53793.
Any help?

[edit]

#649 10 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Looking for a replacement ribbon connector that connects the sound board to the board below it on a Wipe Out. Turns out the ribbon connector has two parallel rows of 10 male pins on it (the female ends are in the boards and some of the pins are broken) and some of those male pins are broken. The part number that I can make out (some of the number is behind the connector housing) is AWM E53793.
Any help?

Is this the cable? Send me a pm and I can mail it out.
Also looks like marco has them: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/25699

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