Another Rescue 911 question - mine has what looks like an unusual post setup at the drain hole. A bare metal post with a red plastic cone right next to it. Is this the normal setup? I can't find any reference pics that show this area.R911 (resized).jpg

Yes, that is normal. You can put a sleeve on there if you want.

thanks! seems weird but if thats the way they did it...who am i to complain.

My silver slugger and cue ball wizard are the same way. I believe they placed the mini post under the apron, to give operators the option to install it as a center post.

My Rescue has it there, my Street Fighter had it installed in the center just like BenB noted.

Will trade a SNS for a Stargate give or take, dm me if interested. (I’m in southern IN near Cincinnati & can travel.) —Lonnie

Dude - Street level games are sweet. Hoops is an absolute blast. If you ever want to trade that Vegas (depending where you are geographically), I'd totally be open to swap

I agree, Street Level games are very underrated. I would love to have a Vegas, Title Fight, Hoops or Silver Slugger in my collection. $400 is a steal, congrats!

Vegas is fun, man that one saw some sunlight.. not sure I've seen them faded before. I'm guessing one side is pink? 400 for any working game is a great deal, love the rules on vegas.

I at one point almost got a Vegas out a deal that was being worked and the deal maker didn't want it so i was asked and had never seen or heard of it. So i went looking luckily there are youtube videos of it out there giving me a good visual look as to what it was so i was on board then. But deal ended up falling through over other games in deal. But i do agree the my not be the best games of all time but more fun then most realize.

That's good - because you are not on Arcadeside.

Holy fade, Batman! I've seen some faded cabs before - but that one is incredible. That said - seeing how the paint held up on the playfield is the part that matters.

System 3s are brick shithouses. I dumped my SF 2 off a truck tailgate slipping on ice - barely a scratch on the outside and it fired up like nothing ever happened.

Anyone happen to have a Game ROM (MPU Board) for Wipeout hanging around? I'd rather not wait a week and pony up the 5x haha tax

What's the best option for getting some color on System 3 DMD's?

I would say Pin2Dmd. There are a few titles colored or you can set custom palettes to add color to the default screens. Colordmd doesn't have gottlieb titles. Pinballsp has a product that should work but I don't know of any titles colored for it. Do you have a specific title in mind?

Big Hurt. I wouldn't mind doing my own color settings, but hopefully it would be full color and not limited to 4 colors.

Pin2DMD takes some time time learn. I still haven't learned how to do dynamic screens where the score is on the screen along with an animation. But it has made my Tee'd Off look much better in my opinion. Pin2DMD allows up to 16 colors and custom palettes to be used for any scene you want to colorize. I have been very happy with it.

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Hey system 3 folks, I am going to be making a run of replacement troughs for Cue Ball Wizard at the end of the month...that clear plastic piece on top that the real pool ball travels over and is usually hogged up and foggy on everyones game. If you are interested in having one made, drop me a PM and I will add you to the list. I do not have any pricing yet, but I would not imagine it costing more than $30-$40.

It's been a few days and no help in the tech section--any ideas about this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-3-big-hurt-when-lower-right-opto-activated-cabinet-buzzes

Anyone have a idea why freddy pinball its a import has power switch on the back by power cord ? Is that normal

While I have a couple I would love to see what the replacements look like!

Not normal...

guys..... help.... i just got a silver slugger and its was kind of a nightmare. i told him i needed to remove the head completely to fit it in my car. and he didn't have the keys to the head so he proceeded to remove the entire wire harness from the cabinet. i mean he disconnected every single wire and molex connection, coin door, flippers, volume nob, knocker, everything. he thought he could remove head that way. after he found out that wasn't gona work he left it like that. drove home and got his drill, duh, and opens the head. then disconnected every cable from the head and doped it in the box. now, i have just a completely loose wire harness i don't have a clue how to put this back and in what order. good news is this machine is in amazing shape, super clean. still has all the label on the molex connectors. but after looking at it i don't think they just match up. i don't see any matching connectors with the same code, but some with very similar codes. i'm gona need alot of help to put this back together. anything would help, including pics and what not. thanks guys.

That’s brutal. Did he unsolder or cut?

I’ve got a silver slugger if you need and specific pictures.

Not sure what the guy did, but You can completely remove a system 3 head without cutting any wires... My old pinhauler was an 09 Honda fit and the extra height when folded made system 3 the only get that wouldn't fit right in.

he unhooked everything that wasn't soldered down. he didn't cut anything luckily.

dude i could use any photos of any connection on the game. i don't even know where to start. flippers, coindoor, tilt bob, EVERYTHING. any help would be great.

anyone have the wire schematics?

Had something interesting happen to my Rescue 911 yesterday. I just got the game and I checked the power supply voltage and it was 5.9 at the power supply and at the P-1 connector that goes to the control board. I turned the game off and pulled the power supply to clean the 5 volt pot with contact cleaner, reflowed solder to the power supply header pins and made sure everything was tight and reinstalled. Adjusted the 5 volts with the boards isolated from the power supply first to get it to 5.01 volts. Then I plugged the top power supply connector back in and tested the volts at 5.01 at the control board. I was playing my second test game and it just completely went dark no power at all. So I started at the line cord and verified 120 volts. Tested all the fuses inside the cabinet and they were good. Checked the two fuses on the power supply inside the cabinet. The 2nd one was blown. It was a 2.5 amp slo blow. I replaced it and the game powered on and worked fine. It has been working fine ever since.

As BenB says. The manual with schematic is what you will ultimately need. In it you can find that red/white/brown wire and figure out exactly where it goes and what connectors go where.

Until then you can get a few decent pics of the wiring from Ipdb. Check https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2152

The Silver Slugger seems to get a good review from about everyone. Congrats, it should be a lot of fun once you get it running

Ok the fuse keeps blowing inside the cabinet. I forget what fuse its labeled as but it's right inside the coin door to the right . There is two fuses in black round holders. It is the one on the right. It's a 2.5 amp fuse. It doesn't blow as soon as the game is turned on. Normally happens in the middle of a game. I did just reflow the solder to the power supply in the backbox and adjust the 5 volts from 5.9 to 5.01. It started happening after that so I am not sure if it's a coincidence or not. There is no header pins touching or anything from my solder touch up. I think I am slightly smelling something burning when the game is on. Any ideas what to check. No other fuses are blowing.

This fuse protects the 12VDC circuit that is converted to 5VDC logic power. First, replace the 5V trim pot then check C1 for ripple. Problems with the 5VDC power supply drawing too much current through the 2.5A fuse can result (or be the result of) more serious problems of the logic downstream from the supply. A boatload of information available on the tech pages:

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/

Read these specific sections in sections 2A and 2B

Bridge Rectifiers and Filter Capacitors.
5 Volt Problems (too low or too high)
Check for Proper +5 volts at the CPU board.

Thank you I will check this when I get home. I can just swap my power supply from a working game and see if it blows. If it blows with that one in I know it's not something with the power supply. Thanks

Is a real nice Gladiator condition 9 all around worth $1,200.I have a chance to get it.Thanks

Brought this Barb Wire in a bit ago. Fairly obscure game, I had never seen one or played it before. It's sitting next to my T2 right now and the T2 is getting no play. I will be bringing it to Pintastic in the Free Play area.

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I think that's a very fair price. Its not super deep, but its a fun game, especially for that price. If you like the theme, give it a try! You should have no problem getting your money back imo when you're ready to move on to something else.

That's a super fun game. And a solid price. I'd do it

While the board tech folks are here, I have a weird one...

Long story short, I am working on a Wipeout that has MPU issues. The customer noted that when they got the game home after being shopped by a local company, the backbox GI was out. The guy tried to change bulbs (with the power on) and the game shut down after he dropped a bulb.

Anyway - I've resolved the GI issue (sound board power wire had pulled from the shrink tubing and was going contact to the bare GI wire), but the MPU is a bit trickier... I verified 5v, but the board wouldn't boot. I took it home to verify in my Rescue 911, and the board wouldn't boot. Pulled the EPROM and determined it was fried. Great - ordered and replaced.

Now, turning the power on, I get the 2 tone, sound and speech come up blinking as expected, display board LED blinks (about half speed as sound LED), and the MPU is flashing very fast. If I hit the reset button, it'll reboot and generate an image to the DMD that's clear enough to recognize, but obviously borked (pic attached). Machine will not go into test or accept any switch Inputs.

I did some research and saw a similar issue where the display boots to garbage (bad U11 chip), but I'm a bit leery that it may be more - and thus not economical for repair at my rate. Anyone have experience in this (or know someone that specializes in Sys 3 board repair?)

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Looks more to me like the U8 GAL IC, which is likely to fail if any plug going to the Dot Matrix Controller board is removed or installed while the game is powered on.

When suspecting the watchdog circuitry, please first replace the 2 1uF caps C20 and C21 before replacing U11 HC123. The fast blinking of the LED at the CPU board indicates the software is restarting or crashing. This also results often in garage at the display because the electronics at the display controller is also unable to start properly. It can be caused by the watchdog, a bad ram, a bad gamerom, or a bad display controller also might be the problem. As there is some readable stuff visible on the display I would suspect the MPU first but...….

I know it isn't the display controller cause the MPU acts the same in my Rescue 911 which is a 100% working game. The problem is definitely on the MPU.

I replaced the game ROM because I noted the board wouldn't boot with the existing one (and verified it as screwed in my ROM burner). That issue is fixed and got the board to fast blink from completely locked.

I guess I'll check the caps next, then U11, then the RAM chip in that order? I actually have an NVRAM sitting around for rescue 911 I could try, but I think that would be last on the list

What I have done so far, I ordered replaced 5 volt pots for both my Got sys 3 games. I swapped the power supply from a working system 3 freddy into this game. I left it in attract mode for 1/2 hour nothing happened. Fuse then blew when I was cycling through the solenoid tests in test mode. Seems like it only seems to blow when the game is playing or flippers are activating. I did notice when in test menu that each time I hit the flipper to cycle through the modes, the back box lights would kinda get dim. Not sure if that is normal or not. Now the fuse I had in there was a 1 1/2 amp instead of a 2 1/2 amp because i am out of 2 1/2 amp fuses but that is not the issue as it did blow a 3 amp fuse one time. I felt around on the cpu board, driver board ect for anything getting hot. The only thing besides the top row of transistors on the driver board is the yamaha ym2151 chip on the top left board directly above the ribbon cable. It was getting pretty warm, almost similar to the amplifier heat sinks warm. Not sure if this is normal, I guess I can check my freddy to see if that chip gets warm on there or not.

I guess to check for voltage ripple I would probe the p1 connector on the power supply with a multi meter and turn the game on and play it and watch the voltage output by the power supply?

All you need to do is set your meter to AC and put the leads across C1. You don't even have to play the game. You should see something less than a volt. If it is much higher, the cap needs replaced.

Ok I will give this a try...still waiting on my fuses from Amazon. Sometimes the Prime is not so prime.... They were supposed to be here yesterday.

In the meantime I looked at my manual in the fuses section and noticed something I never seen before. The fuse that came out of F-2 (assuming the 2nd fuse on the power module where the service outlet is indeed F-2) was a 2 1/2 amp slow blow. According to my manual, F-2 is supposed to have a 5 amp slow blow. Now my game is an export game that was reimported. It has a 220v power module in the front right of the cabinet. The service plug on the power module is also a 220 style round plug.

It appears when I got the game, it had the green jumper plug installed, which according to the chart is for 220v. However after further inspection, it appears that someone changed the pinout of this green 220 jumper to match 120v pinout. If you compare both of my jumpers in the attached photo, they appear to have been changed to 120 pinout. Compare these to Section 5.5 of this link for a photo of a 120v orange jumper. Both of my pinouts match this. http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3

Now according to my manual F-2 is supposed to be a 2 1/2 amp slow blow IF THE GAME IS SET UP FOR 220v. But if it is receiving 110v, a 5 amp slow blow is to be used. Please see the attached picture from my manual.

I want to make sure my thinking is correct before I just go sticking a 5 amp fuse where a 2 1/2 was possibly incorrectly installed?!? Maybe that was my only issue then? When I got the game they had the 5 volts cranked up to 5.9!! I lowered it to 5 like it should be and that is when the fuses started blowing. Please let me know your thoughts are. I also included a photo of the power module. If you look the 2nd fuse holder is removed. This is the fuse that keeps blowing. Is this indeed F-2 fuse? If so, it should have a 5 amp in and not a 2 1/2?
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Pretty sure the game was just underfused. I looked at my freddy pin and it has a 5 amp slow blow in f-2 spot. I put a 5 amp in the rescue 911 pin and was able to play a couple of game on it without it blowing a fuse, also don't smell anymore burning so I think I got lucky and this was just an under fuse issue. I decided to check all the other fuses and found a couple that were over fused and two others that were underfused. F1 has a 4 amp in it which is what it should have for 220v but since its now 120 it should have a 8 amp in. Looks like who ever got it after it got here from spain never swapped those two fuses up to convert from 220 to 120.