(Topic ID: 236569)

Gottlieb System 3 End of Ball


By jahbarron

11 months ago



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  • Latest reply 11 months ago by jahbarron
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#1 11 months ago

I have a Shaq that doesn’t recognize the end of ball regularly. I’d say 9.9/10 ball 1 drains result in the game just sitting there not realizing the ball drained. Every now and then, hitting the flippers will cause ball two to turnover. All switches register in test. There doesn’t appear to be any notches in the trough causing hangups. Any suggestions? My next guess is that possibly one of the switches works in test but flakes in gameplay? Yet if I turn the game off and then back on again without touching anything, it knows one ball is in the outhole and three are in the trough. It will also feed balls out in multiball properly.

I’ve combed through the schematics and don’t have any leads. It’s available on Archive.org if you do an internet search for Shaq Attaq manual.

#2 11 months ago

Follow all switches links to the outhole switch...there's probably an unsold wire

20190219_091900 (resized).jpg
#3 11 months ago

I'll look it over again. I didn't see anything in my initial inspection, but I shelved this project last year and I'm just getting back around to it. If a wire was unsoldered, wouldn't all switches in the row not work? Currently, all switches work. The only other bug is that the right slingshot "kicking rubber" coil doesn't always fire even though the switches work.

#4 11 months ago

A couple of things to check on the outhole or any of the trough switches:

Check the "silver" lug of the switch. It's the one that sticks out like a thumb on the switch, and has it's own connector. Make sure that's nice and clean. They tarnish easily and can cause the switch to fail.

Check the wiring and connectors for broken or cold solder joints.

Check that the activation wire is high enough that the weight of the ball is centered on it and activates it--might be tough to see with the playfield down. But a hand activation isn't quite the same as a ball activation.

Last ditch effort is to just replace any/all of the switches that might cause the problem. I think there's like 2 that gottlieb uses in the outhole and trough. I had a similar issue in my Earthshaker, where the switches seemed to work fine in test, but not in game. Replaced with a new one since they're cheap and the issue resolved itself.

#5 11 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

A couple of things to check on the outhole or any of the trough switches:
Check the "silver" lug of the switch. It's the one that sticks out like a thumb on the switch, and has it's own connector. Make sure that's nice and clean. They tarnish easily and can cause the switch to fail.
Check the wiring and connectors for broken or cold solder joints.
Check that the activation wire is high enough that the weight of the ball is centered on it and activates it--might be tough to see with the playfield down. But a hand activation isn't quite the same as a ball activation.
Last ditch effort is to just replace any/all of the switches that might cause the problem. I think there's like 2 that gottlieb uses in the outhole and trough. I had a similar issue in my Earthshaker, where the switches seemed to work fine in test, but not in game. Replaced with a new one since they're cheap and the issue resolved itself.

Yeah, I was thinking of just shotgunning the switches and see what happens. System 3s have this diode board located under the playfield that I'm suspicious of. I need to pick up a physical copy of the manual that I can sit down with. I have a hard time tracing on the virtual manuals.

#6 11 months ago

I suppose you could pull that board and just test each diode. I’m 99% sure that’s just the relocation of either the switch diodes anyway.

I know Gottlieb shared the columns (or rows, can’t remember which) with both the switches and lamps. Which adds a layer of complication.

#7 11 months ago

I'm guessing all you might need to do is adjust the microswitch lever slightly.

#8 11 months ago

Those -single sided- diode boards often have cracked solder connections, especially on the big connectors.

#9 11 months ago

The other way to test switches is to pull them in test mode to know if there are working...Not by autocheck itself cause it need many plays to count by % of non-working switches.
Also if you clean your switch with electronic spray just wait 10 min before push on your pinball.
Scratch all carbon switches with sandpaper
Resold any suspect wires, clean every connectors.

#10 11 months ago
Quoted from MarAlb:

Those -single sided- diode boards often have cracked solder connections, especially on the big connectors.

Reflow on the diode board fixed the intermittent slingshot coil.

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