When I first installed the freshly built LISY board it worked for about 1 minute. I hadn't noticed that a pop bumper had locked on. I noticed it in the same second that the solenoid fuse blew. So, adjust that pop switch, pop in a new fuse (see what I did there?), and I'm back in business, right? ...Right?
Take two: New fuse, fixed the switch. Powered it on and the playfield was dead.
Take three: Reseated the connectors. Still no solenoids. At this point I was tired and irritated, and it would have been smart to just step away from it, and start fresh tomorrow. Instead, I started messing with the fuses, while the game was powered on. When I touched the solenoid fuse, every coil fired in quick succession. BAM-BAM!!! That can't be good.
On reset, the solenoids still didn't work, and now the display read "ERR 9" At this point, I seriously considered throwing this off a roof. Cooler heads prevailed.
After consulting with bontango, we diagnose the Sol & Lamps PIC chip got cooked. He offers to either email me the hex file for a PIC that I could source locally, or could send a new PIC for 5 Euro. I choose the latter.
Somewhat ironically, the entire LISY1 board kit took 7 days from Germany to my door. But after two weeks, I was still waiting for my replacement PIC. In the mean time, I had placed a Mouser order, which included blank PICs. I asked bontango for the hex file, which he had emailed to me. I finally got the replacement PIC. Unfortunately, it had been mangled during shipping.
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Luckily, none of the pins were broken, and after a half-hour of careful straightening with duck-bill pliers, I was able to install. But first, to be careful. I pull the solenoid fuse before I boot the machine.
Take 4: It powers on just fine. I shut it off this time (still being careful) and replace the fuse. I power it up annnnnnd... Error 9. No solenoids. Damn. So much for careful.
It didn't occur to me to examine the driver board. It had previous work done, but had checked out. At least, it checked out before I blew up the PIC chip. Now I take a closer look at the driver:
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Doesn't take a whole lot of diagnoses to see the issue here. That tip and the corresponding blocking diode both fried. Further testing shows that it leads to the dead leg on the PIC. I fix the driver board, and start down the garden path of PIC programming. How hard can that be? I have a PROM programmer that I borrowed from a friend. Unfortunately, it doesn't recognize the chip. So I buy a China-made PICkit 3 programmer....
I am well aware I am getting half-bucked to death by now. Then I spent several hours trying to get the programmer to work - without success. Now I was getting kicked in the balls too. I finally got it working when I downloaded a different PIC programming software. Finally!
Take 5 is it? Installed the newly programmed PIC and fired it up. I'm finally back to where I started a month ago...