(Topic ID: 173048)

Gottlieb System 1 Reset caps


By Toyguy

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by cro_pinman
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

I've got a Totem that has an issue with starting up. It takes about 20 power cycles to get the thing to boot correctly. Most of the time, it will start up with the displays blank, or garbled, and a game can't be started. Once it does start, it plays perfectly and will do so until it's turned off. Whether it's turned back on immediately or later, it will still require numerous on/off cycles to get it to boot again.

It's got a brand new power supply in it and voltages are good. I've replaced Q5, Q6 and Z2 in the reset circuit with no change in behavior. I'd like to replace the C31 and C32 caps in the reset circuit, but I've no idea what kind they are. They are an odd block-shaped component. I do know they're 0.1mfd.

Does anyone know if I need to find similar replacements, or can I just swap them out for any old 0.1mfd of a decent voltage rating?

Thanks!
Dave

#2 2 years ago

What power supply are you using?

#4 2 years ago

get it to boot then reset all the ram audits

#5 2 years ago

If your original backup battery is still soldered on the MPU, remove it and replace with a 4 AA holder with blocking diode. (Use 3AAs)

Clear all the bookkeeping settings using the coin door and mpu switches.

#6 2 years ago

I've cleared all the audits and the batteries are remote mounted. Still takes about 20 on-off cycles to get it to boot. It may just be bad but I will try subbing those caps with some other .1mfd parts to see what happens.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from sneakerpin:

If your original backup battery is still soldered on the MPU, remove it and replace with a 4 AA holder with blocking diode. (Use 3AAs)

Or a coin cell battery. This would be less likely to leak.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Installing_a_Coin_Cell_Battery

#8 2 years ago

I have seen (to) many situations like yours, with logic probe you can check reset signal at TC1-14, also take a look at transistor Q6
(broken leg)

Unfortunately, I doubt at (more) serious problem - U4 & U5 (you mentioned - "GOT a Totem"...)

Can you attach a photo of the MPU board.

#9 2 years ago

FYI -- that board wasn't designed by GPE. It's almost a direct copy. Interesting, they removed the +5V adjust circuit plus bulk input capacitance. Plus, they included on their board one unnecessary item that I intentionally included to see if anybody copies my design (and I'm not saying what).

Caps C31 and C32 *could* be the problem, but I doubt it. Those are part of a timer circuit so I would go with tight ceramics or polyester caps for those. Polyesters tend to be a bit more stable over time and temperatures.

As others are pointing to -- a good place to start is to check voltages in your reset circuit. This would be the VAB voltage. What voltage do you get at pin 16 of Z2?

#10 2 years ago

Thanks Ed. Hate to learn that someone is ripping off your design.

Looks like some voltage checks coming up. I'll report back as soon as I can get them done.

#11 2 years ago

Just to say...capacitors are "not" critical, it's VERY interesting how various manufacturers (Z2 4528)
have influence at reset time duration.

I have some "buried" notices about it, have to look.

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